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Found 34 results

  1. This will be my first entry in a group build, ever. I don't have the skills or experience to approach some of the work here, but I will refine the cockpit and add the non-existent wheel wells at the very least. I was pleasantly surprised to see that this release of the kit came with cuffless Hamilton Standard props. So, I'll do my best to turn an Airfix 1/24 Mustang IVa, Waldron seat belts, foil placards, oxygen hose and instrument dials into this: or this:
  2. docdodj01

    Building a Revell P-51D

    So after lurking for so long, and with certain responsibilities being met, I decided to start a build. It's been a long time since I last built a kit (4 years ago?!?!). I got the new revell kit, and started cracking on it. I'm not sure for markings yet, but I'm leaning on Lt Donald Emerson's P-51D. So anyways, here's photos of the build. Untitled by Docdodj, on Flickr
  3. Seeing all the good work here on the Revell Mustangs and having got my research pretty much together it is time to start on Lou IV, in the Blue/Green scheme uncovered by Dana Bell. I know some folks here don't see it, but I do so that's good enough for me. Thanks to Dana for sharing his hi-res scan with me (this is a low-res version) so I can try and gauge colors (along with the research others have done on the possible sources of the blue paint). I have both kit and aftermarket decals for the Lou IV but pretty much going OOB, (I figure the color scheme alone will be enough to distract people) and do have the Barracuda resin wheel and tire set. As usual I did the dish soap bath - here are all the sprues (except the clear ones) laid out to dry. At least one pair of the flaps have the injection depression running the length as many people here have found. The other pair does not seem to have the depression but we'll see once I get a better look at them. As usual as well, I primer the parts on the sprues - this also helped to see any of the injection problems that have been reported. White Vallejo primer for most services, Vallejo Gloss Black for where the majority of the paint will be silver. It is a really nice gloss primer and the white went down exceptionally smoothly as well. None of the details seem to be obscured. The main gear doors definitely are showing the injection problems that have been noted: This will not be a quick build as I have two weeks of business travel this month, sandwiched around our Model Classic show on the 21st. But hope to make some progress on the cockpit this month. Stay tuned! Chris
  4. Happy to announce hollow, 3D-printed Merlin engine exhausts, optimized to fit the new-tool Revell P-51D-5 kit, are now available. They can be adapted for other 1/32 scale Merlin-powered Mustang kits. The exhausts are left- and right-handed, feature nut detail, and are printed in "Frosted Extreme Detail" acrylic plastic by Shapeways. They sell for $7.36 USD per pair. Link: http://shpws.me/Q8P5 For the last four years, Model Monkey has been specializing in 3D-printed products for ship and armor modelers. This is the first design for aircraft modelers. There will be more. Best wishes and happy modeling! - Steve Larsen Catalog of over 1600 designs for scale modelers:https://modelmonkey.wixsite.com/modelmonkey
  5. Hi guys and gals, I'm contemplating building another P-51D this time from the Pacific or China theater. I know there were some differences in equipment – notably radio and navigation – between the machines used in Europe and those used on the Pacific front. I can also use some input about the F-6D/K recce variant. Will you Mustang fans and experts care to give me some pointers? Thanks a bunch, Quang
  6. Folks: I've done some looking around and I can't seem to find definitive measurements for the WWII Invasion stripes for a P-51 Mustang. Wikipedia says this: The stripes were five alternating black and white stripes. On single-engine aircraft each stripe was to be 18 inches (46 cm) wide, placed 6 inches (15 cm) inboard of the roundels on the wings and 18 inches (46 cm) forward of the leading edge of the tailplane on the fuselage. National markings and serial number were not to be obliterated. I figure someone here has a quick answer...so what do you think? I thought the wing stripes were a different width than the fuselage stripes. Thanks in advance! Chris
  7. Hi gents, I'm currently working on the Revell P-51D-5NA kit and would need your expertise concerning the following detail. This early version of the P-51D still had fabric-covered elevators and rudder. As far as I know, fabric-covered areas usually had drain holes to evacuate humidity trapped inside the surfaces and prevent them from rotting. My question is: did such drain holes exist on the Mustang? Where were they located? Thank you very much for your help. All the best, Quang
  8. Guys, I’m building the new Revell Mustang (like everyone 🤓) and am enjoying it so far until... ...a few days ago I lost the after-deck part to the carpet monster. I’ve sent Revell a request for a replacement but I don’t count too much on it. So I decided to replicate it in plasticard. Looks like it’s not too complicated to do. But then I need to understand what I’m trying to replicate, details like the part in silver and the engraved semi-circle ... Can you, Mustang experts inform me so that I could go on with my build? Thank you all Quang
  9. Hi Guys After being just a regular Large Scale Planes for the past 3 1/2 years I am back now as a trader, and as you can see the trading name is Aerocraft Models. I wanted a name to be aircraft related and the also thought of the word 'craft', so hence Aerocraft arose and the domain names were available in .co.uk and .com. As a brief update I have been doing master patterns for various people, aircraft related and some model bus projects for a few companies that do HO scale model buses. Over the last little while the bug got to me again to do a few things that I never got around to do, and still have plans and lots of research material for. In the interim I have decided to do a few small projects just to get the ball rolling. The first is some improved intake ramps and details for the Airfix 1/72 Phantom. I made these mainly because the lack of detail frustrated me and although I have not completed one as yet I intend to possibly build as many as 12 Phantoms, and I certainly could not modify parts for so many builds, roll on the FGR.2 release. Next up will be a small but handy item or two for another recent Airfix release 1/48 scale, I will confirm what that is in the next few days, as I need to do a trial casting or two before I announce that. There will be some 1/32 scale items following along as well, these three scales will be the three that I will be working in. My main aim in the next few months will be a few more complex conversions and I hope to have at least one full resin kit with other media parts out this year. One big difference this time I will only be doing this in my spare time, as I have full time employment so this will most certainly be secondary in priority, although I still hope to offer good service to my customers. LINK to new website, note this is fairly basic for now but it should do the job. http://www.aerocraftmodels.com I dropped Kevin an email the other day and this is the area that he guided me to post within, thanks for your help Kevin MAIN LSP NEWS STARTS HERE Another little set that I have been playing with, although the discussion has been quite controversial and I take all and both sides of the argument, and I know Radu well and admire his research and talent, I still think that there could be some folk interested. I know that there is another set already out on the market, but this is just my preferred method, I am still thinking of proceeding with it. The fact is that these few parts do not fully make a late model 'D' Mustang, there are changes also required to the cockpit and a few other small items as well as some discussion about a slightly different canopy. I have taken a lot of the points on and for my sake I am not too fussed personally about the cockpit changes (instrumentation variation mainly) and I have studied the canopy carefully, mainly against the three canopies offered in the Tamiya kit. To be honest I think that the Revell canopy and that in the Tamiya kit that is offered to cater for the later 'D' Mustangs is very close, and are almost 100% interchangeable. So before I finalise a few minor tweaks on the pattern and make production moulds I would like to get a an idea if you guys would be interested at all. Prices are estimated as follows 4 parts of resin new tail parts and new elevators £7.50, shipping in UK £2.50, shipping elsewhere in the world £4.50. NOTE as can bee seen these are an exact replica of the kit parts, so are thin shells, and the kit tail wheel assembly fits as per the kit was designed. AND YES I KNOW Revell will release an updated kit at some time so this is not a set for the long term future, but does my needs until then. cheers Ali Here are some links to pictures not able to get them to paste into post as yet. https://www.flickr.com/photos/154612402@N07/25806979347/in/dateposted-public/ https://www.flickr.com/photos/154612402@N07/40636120262/in/dateposted-public/ https://www.flickr.com/photos/154612402@N07/38867587420/in/dateposted-public/ https://www.flickr.com/photos/154612402@N07/38867586260/in/dateposted-public/ cheers Ali
  10. Hi everybody, The title says it all, really, are ther any photos to be found (preferably on the internet) of "Flying Dutchman", the P-51D-5-NA from the 31st FG in Italy? Thanks & Cheers, Erik!
  11. Aside from all of the prep work I've been doing, the following has taken a long time to evolve to get to this stage. Hopefully future efforts will move along more quickly. Otherwise I may miss the deadline. I reworked the right and left edges. The rod goes into the edgework of the instrument panel. I needed to trim away the sidewall structure under the rod so the rod would set properly when the sidewall was dryfitted to the floor/i.p. assembly. The insulation is from a solid core wire. I threaded .5mm wide insulation onto stripped wire taken from a hard drive parallel data cable. .010 or .015 solder wire. I needed to replace the outermost terminal with rod. I replaced the canopy retraction handle to complement the throttle handle. The throttle handle is a kit part and really stood out, detail wise. The canopy handle was molded into the sidewall. It looked flat compared to the throttle so I chiseled it off and made a new handle. I domed the end of a piece of rod to make the base, flattened the end of a rod with a plier and sanded the result round to get the handle base, and cut some rod for the handle. Wiring configuration is made up, although the rod that runs the length approximates the real deal. I needed to remove some of the bottom of the first and second structure. Home made springs and mounts. Springs aren't glued in place. This spring is a little short, oh well. I'll just glue it against the high tab. The spring is compressed. Here you can almost see how the rods would go thru the side openings I made in the panel. Without removing some sidewall structure the rod configuration wouldn't work. I had to weigh one effect against the other. More work, but I chose this effect. Rudder pedal linkage is good, with the spring and everything, but the wire connection isn't accurate. This was an easier connection to make. It is pinned with .010 rod so it moves around. Same thing here concerning removal of the first two structure bottoms. I wanted to see if the rudder pedal junk would look effective. Not such a hot shot. I don't know what those two rods are on the left, but they are in every photo I have of that area. Thanks for looking in. Sincerely, Mark
  12. I had no idea this was being released so soon, but some of my Dad's photos from his time with the Squadron are in it. From what I understand, apart from many photos never seen before, there are also almost two dozen colour profiles based on the photos. I know it's a narrow subject area, but I'm pumped!!
  13. After finishing one of my other 1/72 projects, today I started on my next big project. A Tamiya 1/32 P-51D Mustang which will be done up as a RAAF 77 Squadron plane, based out of Japan during the early years of the Korean Police Action. I have been collecting a bit of aftermarket for this for a while, though whilst doing so, I'll be using much of the what you see here. I'll be using my Silhouette cutter again for many of the markings. So after spending in the morning pouring over my copy of Mustangs, ADF serials, Large Scale Planes and some other books, I got started. It always feels great making the first cut on a new kit. The first two assembled pieces. A few hours later I had the sub-assemblies of the Supercharged Merlin together and ready for paint. I'm loving the details on this engine. A few coats of Tamiya Semi Gloss Black later. A little detail work and dry brushing, and its well on its way. Still a lot to go though. I want to try my hand at the fuel lines and ignition leads, though the thought of it does make me nervous. Next stage is underway, but thats enough for now.
  14. On the later model P-51's the battery was sometimes relocated to in front of the oil tank under the engine cowl to make room for more radio gear behind the pilot. I found mention somewhere online that the mounting bracket to do this was included in the Tamiya kit, but due to Photobucket being dicks, there were no photos of what the part was or how it was achieved. Can anyone here assist me with either photos, information or both please. I don't mind scratch building something if its not the case, but I have no idea what the mounting bracket would look like either. Cheers.
  15. Hi Judy: Last we talked you confirmed that your 1/32 Big Beautiful Doll decals were scaled up from your 1/48 scale decals and we discovered they don't fit the nose of the Tamiya 1/32 model without extensive modifications. Have you made changes to that set yet or are you going to? Looking forward to using one of your Mosquito sets on an upcoming build! Thanks, Chris
  16. wunwinglow

    Interesting P51 product!

    https://www.aviationmegastore.com/mustang-p51-fighter-including-aluminium-stand-ap459-authentic-models-781934580553-authentic-models/product/?action=prodinfo&art=139921 Usual disclaimers.... Tim
  17. Hello fellow master modelers - I am going to hopefully take you through a pretty challenging scratch build of some 1/18 wheels and tires for a P-51 Mustang using primarily a Unimat mini-lathe. At the time of this posting, I am not done, and there is some risk that it will be a failure. But here goes..... A few years ago I dove into a 21st Century Toys 1/18 scale P-51 Mustang, made extensive modifications and improvements, and called her Miss Velma. Here is a picture of her after the two-year project was completed (some of you know of this giant project): I have a 4-part article on Miss Velma on LSP, if interested. The main landing gear were a big part of the project. I scratch built the struts, brakes, and gear doors but used the existing toy's tires and wheels, although heavily modified. Here are some closeups: It may be evident to you from the pictures that the original tires were split (sawed) in two right along the centerline, and a good bit of plastic sheet material added in the middle, and then the diamond pattern re-cut. At the time that was all I could think of to get the tire width correct. I lived with the inaccurate tread pattern, and also the inaccurate diameter of the rims (they are a little too large but the tire OD is actually about right). The outer wheel half was mercilessly whittled on in and attempt to make the "spokes" look somewhat accurate, with marginal results. The inner wheel half was modified too, to accept the scratch built brake housings. Here is what the wheels and tires are supposed to look like: Meanwhile, I purchased a Unimat mini-lathe in support of my P-38 "Lucky Lady" build (look for an article soon), and learned how to make pretty good tires and wheels as machined parts. Here is an example (main gear P-38, 1/18 scale): So now I mean to give Miss Velma some new shoes, which better represent the real thing. Off come the old: Geez - it's a bit damaged but nothing I cannot fix. And I will get on with the new. Stay tuned!
  18. Hi, I'm building Tamiya's classic in Pacific outfit. I've added polish Yahu instrument panel, HGW seatbelts, some Eduard Photoetch, my own wires and i will use Kagero decals.
  19. Hi all! Two years ago I decided, that I need a Mustang in my collection. I saw a Dragon kit of P-51K Mustang in the shop - and i thought: "Why not?". It was a terrible mistake The kit has a lot of problems. When I started work with wheel bay - I really went to pieces. But sometime ago I decided to finish this work. Some work moments: Removing panel lines and rivets Added some positive rivets New ligths New bay for flaps Some rudder improvements The both sides in cockpit where wrong. The new one
  20. Long overdue posting here, apologies, but finally took a few final pictures. Also put BBD up on the stand as well. This is my first large-scale build having built almost exclusively in 1/48 and starting with the Tamiya P-51D was quite a treat. This is not quite an OOB build, using some Photoetch from Eduard in the engine compartment (and conveniently covered up, UGH!) and the cockpit (ditto - using the pilot figure was probably not my brightest idea ever). The HGW Seatbelts were not easy to get together - for me anyway - but really look good in this scale compared to the nightmare they were in 1/48!. The decals are a combination of Zotz checkers for the nose, Big Beautiful Doll and the wingtips checkers are from Eagle Cal and the rest from the kit itself. The paints are mostly acrylics - Tamiya TS-12 on the fuselage for example and Model Master, and the exhaust area is Model Master Metalizer. I have a lot of bottles of it from a long time ago, but it seems to keep well and I recently figured out a new venting system for my paint booth so I can actually paint with the aromatic metalizers and enamels now without smelling up the house. If you followed along the build thread you know about the issues with the nose checkers and other fun I had with this terrific kit. http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=56418&hl= Apologies - I am totally off on the white balance - I'll have to reshoot. The nose is two decals - the Zotz decals fit the Tamiya nose nearly perfectly. The nose cone/prop assembly is not overly tight so does pull away some from the fuselage. The Zotz decals require a white band to be painted around the first row of checkers, careful matching the white. I don't usually have the plane mounted on the stand, and I'm not entirely thrilled with the fit of the panel that replaces the landing gear, but BBD does look good in flight. As much detail as went into the engine bay, unless you take off all the panels much of it is hidden. I didn't super detail the topside of the engine and now regretting it. Also seeing that I'll need to be doing some weathering around the exhaust stacks. But one of my favorite items in the kit really are the figures. I love the pilot, and hope to do a mini-diorama sometime.
  21. Thought of doing something different so purchased one of Tamiya's great P-51D 1/48 scale kits. I found Warbird's set of Thunderbird Decals for the Tamiya 1/48 P-51D which are a beautiful Red White and Blue. Should build up to a nice looking plane. Painted the cockpit white in keeping with a show aircraft and the entire aircraft is MM Metalizer Buffing Aluminum Plate. I really like the Metalizer paints, but you definitely have to watch the fumes so excellent ventilation is mandatory. They shine up nice, and lose a bit of luster once sealed. Still, looks shiny! There is an ongoing story behind the decals, see below. Other side a bit different Top view Now a bit of the saga with the decals. In the picture above the USAF letters have cracked a bit after a coat of MicroSet. The insignia on the left also looks like it is cracking, but I really hope not. Interestingly enough - used MicroSet on the insignia on the fuselage sides and it seems fine. Also on the US Flag and the Thunderbirds insignia on the right side. Really curious. In the picture below, the nose and tail decals are red white and blue and for both the nose and the tail decal the red is incredibly brittle. I was extra careful with the tail decal, but even minor movement shatters the red part of the decal, which is a large part of the decal. Ugh. I contacted Warbirds and they promptly responded and are sending out a replacement set. Hope they work better! The decal on the left is the Warbirds Thunderbird Tail decal. The right is what is left of the nose decal. Where the decal was red it shattered very easily from just a little bit of movement. Down below, the sharks mouth is from a 1/32 P-40 set which I used to test fit on a P-51 before I used a different mouth from the same set. Even with all of the moving and pushing around, and ultimately, it did not even tear. So I don't think I'm doing something wrong here. Hoping the new set from Warbirds works much better. Otherwise I'm masking and painting the red white and blue!
  22. Hi everyone, After a 2 year hiatus, finally coming close to completion. I have been eagerly following everyone's Mustang WIP's for tips, tricks and hints. Thanks so much everyone for sharing as it has made 'reentry' so much easier and I hope I can add to the overall discussion. I am building the Tamiya 1:32 kit, and agree with all the positive comments others have made. I find that if something doesn't fit right, I'm not doing something right. That little bit of wisdom has saved me multiple times. I'm still trying to figure out the livery and have many options, including Big Beautiful Doll. So decisions, decisions. I'll start with the early build pics and add more later so these articles don't get too long. I've taken some color liberties such as the copper piping and a wood floor in the cockpit. I know not historically accurate, but I've seen pictures of others who have done this and I really liked how it looked. The copper is enamel sprayed right from the Testors can. Outdoors to avoid the odors. Most of the rest of the paint is Model Master or Tamiya acrylics. With the cowl panels off the copper piping will just be visible. A close up of the right sidewall. The Eduard color and placards add amazing detail. The cockpit sidewalls are a combination of the Tamiya parts and Eduard's color PE. I also have the Barracuda stencils but OMG are they tiny! Saving them for my next Mustang. Here is the left side: Next up the engine and super charger and the completed cockpit. My photo skills are improved with later pictures. :-)
  23. http://www.nbcdfw.com/news/local/World-War-II-Era-P-51-Mustang-Makes-Belly-Landing-at-Dallas-Executive-Airport-367529111.html
  24. Aside from a couple of antennas, are there any substantial differences between the standard D and Pacific D kits?
  25. Hello everyone, This is my first time to post a build on here and I'm a little ways into my build already but I thought why not share my progress and gather some others' input for future builds. I'm making the 1/32 Tamiya P-51D pretty much OOB. I do plan to use some OOP Pyn-up decals I have. I can't decide which one I want to do first though, I'm torn between Passion Wagon and Moon Mullins' P-51D. Both of these birds are early production P-51s with a filletless tail. Before I post pictures of my decals can someone please tell me if it's allowed to post nude pin-ups that were nose art? I'll add pictures as soon as I figure out how that works and I get an answer to my question. Cheers, Brady
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