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  1. Happy to announce an accurately shaped and detailed 1/24 scale P-51D Mustang upper cowling is now available for your Airfix kits. This model replaces the Airfix's kit's inaccurately shaped upper cowling parts. The cowling is 3D-printed in gray resin. It was designed from original North American Aviation blueprints ensuring an accurate shape and detailing.
  2. 'Morning ladies and gents, lads and lassies, Let me give it to you, straight. The Mustang was never one of my favorites. Something to do with the snobbish side of me, never wanting to love a plane everybody loves to love. It's sooo uncool to like a pretty face, right? That is until some months ago, when stranded in a foreign land and estranged from my trusty desk and rusty tools, all that was left for me to do was some virtual modelling on the internet. That is when I read about a new Revell release associated in some way with Radu Brinzan. I knew the name and respected the modeller. I was intrigued and read on, the previews, the reviews, the WIPs ... and soon before long I was hooked. I wrote to my friend in Belgium to buy a kit for me and in anticipation, I myself ordered an Eduard interior set. Thus, months later upon my return to my trusty desk, I was ready to join the fray. For my subject, I chose Art Fiedler's HELEN, a P-51D-5 of the 325 GR in Italy 1944. Seen here in static simulation And in simulated video The main reason for this choice is an opportunity to airbrush the famous yellow-and-black checkers and the various markings using Frisket film. I know it shows my age but what the heck? Secondly, this particular machine is retro-fitted with the dorsal fin fillet DFF found on later versions of the P-51D. So it will give me the chance to try my hand at the controversial 'swayback' fillet as these field-installed mods were known. Just what I needed to spice up an all-too conventional build... or so I thought at that time 'Nuff said. The ride is about to begin, ladies and gentlemen, all aboard. Cheers, Quang
  3. Greetings all: Although visited LSP many times for ideas and tips on my builds, this is my first post on LSP. I'm beyond impressed with the modeling talent on this site and look forward to both sharing my work and learning from the members here. Most of my projects have been 1/48 scale but I'm starting to do more in 1/32. I first built the Tamiya Mustang kit a couple of years ago OOB as Lt Col. Meyer's "Petie 2nd." For this project, I've decided to depict Major Edward Giller's "The Millie G" (44-14985), using the Tamiya kit as the base and will use the following AM goodies for added detail: Barracuda instrument panel Eduard engine detail kit Barracuda cockpit upgrade kit Barracuda P-51D decals Barracuda P-51D cockpit stencils and placards Barracuda P-51D sidewalls Eduard wheels Eduard gun bay late Eduard exterior detail kit G-Factor landing gear I've completed the engine and the instrument panel so far. I added ignition wiring and some of the Eduard detail kit PE parts (control linkages, fastener detail, etc.). Here's the instrument panel. The decals are from the Barracuda stencil and placard set. The Barracuda IP is a bit of work but I think is much better than the kit panel. Thanks for looking. Comments and critique welcome.
  4. Hi everyone, Roland, an old IPMS friend of mine is looking for this particular decal sheet for an ongoing project. The decal manufacturer is LEVOS DECALS in South Africa. Roland sent an e-mail to LEVOS DECAL but apparently they don’t sell abroad. So he’d need someone living in South Africa to buy the decals and send them to him in Belgium by post. Of course, Roland will pay all the costs involved. Is there a friendly LSP member living in South Africa who’s willing to help my friend out? Thank you all in advance. Cheers, Quang
  5. Admin/Moderators, please move to correct area if this isn't appropriate place. I’m really wondering if I need to clear out some of my stash of older kits. I know most the old Revell 1/32 kits date from the 60s and have been reissued several times AND by and large been eclipsed by far better kits. The only one I’m not sure about is the Revell Hurricane Mk I. IIRC, the molds were modified to produce the cannon equipped version Mk II. Is that right? I have fond memories of building the Corsair, P-40, P-47, Typhoon, Spitfire Mk I, Wildcat, Stuka and Zero and maybe others…and may even build the P-40 as a lark as I remember it being a decent looking model…despite being an E in AVG markings. What about the SBDs? Former Matchbox IIRC. Neither opened, but expect them to be of the same era and lacking as badly as the P-47 and P-51B. Same with the P-38J kit. Having the Trumpeter, I doubt I’ll build one and don’t need two. On the old Hasegawa and Hasegawa/Minicraft kits, they are largely of the early seventies. Are the old M-109E and Fw190s decent kits? I’m not much of a German a/c builder, though thinking these might be good projects to learn on. While improvements over the Revell kits, are they reasonable accurate or do they have major shape/fit issues? I think the 109G14 is a much later and better kit. Is that true? I found a 2002 date on it versus 60/70s on the others. How does the Zero compare to the Revell? What about the Oscar? These were is sealed clear poly bags I didn’t want to open so hard to compare. I certainly have a surplus of Hasegawa P-51Ds and will be shedding some of them. im working my way through Scalemates looking at various boxing’s and original tool dates. At the moment, nothing is for sale or trade, but some soon will be once I get educated a bit more. I acquired many of these from a good friend who was a retired USAF F-106/F-15 pilot and retired FedEx Captain. He died in a small plane crash a couple of years ago and his wife gave me all his kits which accounts for me having multiples. Nothing is up for sale or trade at the moment. I will list it here first when I decide what I'm doing with which kit and gauge if there is any market for these or if postage will be more than they are worth. I am hanging on to my new Hasegawa P-47s (3). I would appreciate your feedback. H-278 and 04781 H-296 and 04722 Both 04711 4749 and H-280 H-283 and H-279 H-295 and H282 (two) H-217 JS-060 and JS-073 JS-070 and JS-060 JS-086 x2 and (not shown 1086 x3) Both JS-060:400 JS-073 and ST18:4200
  6. This is a real long shot, but I have been told that LSP folks can produce miracles. My uncle (now deceased) was Henry Rudolph, and he flew P-51D's in WW2 for the 354th FG, 353rd FS. He arrived sometime in 1944 after the D-model was becoming prevalent. He was shot down once, but (rather miraculously) returned to base in France. The aircraft he appears to have flown at war's end was a P-51D-20 serial number 44-63865, buzz letters FT-J. This may or may not have been his personal mount. Historical accounts show that aircraft assigned to him only. According to him, he named this aircraft "Sissy Mana" for his sister (my mother), whose nickname as a child was Mana. Also, supposedly the aircraft had nose art. There is a film available on the 354th FG with alot of footage of take-offs and landings, where I believe I saw FT-J taking off. It did not have nose art and I have no idea if that was 44-63865. 44-63865 survived the war, did the typical ANG and foreign air force tours, raced some, and apparently is flying today! I would like to model Sissy Mana but I have no idea what the nose art looked like, if it even existed. Anybody got any ideas? I have searched everywhere.
  7. Aside from all of the prep work I've been doing, the following has taken a long time to evolve to get to this stage. Hopefully future efforts will move along more quickly. Otherwise I may miss the deadline. I reworked the right and left edges. The rod goes into the edgework of the instrument panel. I needed to trim away the sidewall structure under the rod so the rod would set properly when the sidewall was dryfitted to the floor/i.p. assembly. The insulation is from a solid core wire. I threaded .5mm wide insulation onto stripped wire taken from a hard drive parallel data cable. .010 or .015 solder wire. I needed to replace the outermost terminal with rod. I replaced the canopy retraction handle to complement the throttle handle. The throttle handle is a kit part and really stood out, detail wise. The canopy handle was molded into the sidewall. It looked flat compared to the throttle so I chiseled it off and made a new handle. I domed the end of a piece of rod to make the base, flattened the end of a rod with a plier and sanded the result round to get the handle base, and cut some rod for the handle. Wiring configuration is made up, although the rod that runs the length approximates the real deal. I needed to remove some of the bottom of the first and second structure. Home made springs and mounts. Springs aren't glued in place. This spring is a little short, oh well. I'll just glue it against the high tab. The spring is compressed. Here you can almost see how the rods would go thru the side openings I made in the panel. Without removing some sidewall structure the rod configuration wouldn't work. I had to weigh one effect against the other. More work, but I chose this effect. Rudder pedal linkage is good, with the spring and everything, but the wire connection isn't accurate. This was an easier connection to make. It is pinned with .010 rod so it moves around. Same thing here concerning removal of the first two structure bottoms. I wanted to see if the rudder pedal junk would look effective. Not such a hot shot. I don't know what those two rods are on the left, but they are in every photo I have of that area. Thanks for looking in. Sincerely, Mark
  8. It has begun. Took me about a year, but finally got started. This will be Duchess Arlene and the intent is to bring it to Nationals in Chattanooga. We'll see if it goes on the contest table or the club table, or the Display table. We all know the box: And here is the aftermarket of which I'll be using bits and pieces - mostly for the cockpit. I have some duplicates (Brassin and Barracuda and tires for one) so am looking to mix and match. Mustangs were supposedly known for having mismatched tires (although I've seen very few pictures of that). I've already sorted through most of that Big Ed batch and won't be using any of the Engine bits (more on that in a minute) or the machine gun bays. I have 3 options for the IP actually. Bases by Bill did a custom base for me and it is amazing. The name tag actually has its own little stand as well and I purchased the appropriate medal for Lt. Williams. I mentioned I have three options for the IP: the Kit, Eduard and Barracuda. I'm going to see if I can build all 3 as kind of a comparison and will post that separately but will show some of it here as well. The Barracuda IP intrigues me the most, but also looks like an amazing amount of work. Hmmm... Not as big a fan of the self-adhesive Eduard but the detail is nice. I have the Barracuda cockpit placards as well. MIGHT look at a combo of Eduard and Barracuda. We'll see. Oh, I have a piece of Tamiya tape on the Barracuda IP as I get it ready for primer. I have already removed the outer pouring casings but not the base yet. I'm not going with the removable engine panels so the engine is only what is needed to secure the prop and exhausts (which don't actually attach to the engine on this kit): Hopefully more tomorrow. Ciao! Chris
  9. Hi guys, I finally finished this one Overall it's nice kit and great value for such a low price. painted with Mr. Color, Alclad II and Mr. Paint, weathering done with MIG prod. and AMMO of Mig Jimenez stuff. AM used: Eduard interior and exterior sets Brassin wheels and prop Zoukei Mura decals HGW seatbelts You can find WIP thread here thanks for looking and all comments are welcome jan
  10. Seeing all the good work here on the Revell Mustangs and having got my research pretty much together it is time to start on Lou IV, in the Blue/Green scheme uncovered by Dana Bell. I know some folks here don't see it, but I do so that's good enough for me. Thanks to Dana for sharing his hi-res scan with me (this is a low-res version) so I can try and gauge colors (along with the research others have done on the possible sources of the blue paint). I have both kit and aftermarket decals for the Lou IV but pretty much going OOB, (I figure the color scheme alone will be enough to distract people) and do have the Barracuda resin wheel and tire set. As usual I did the dish soap bath - here are all the sprues (except the clear ones) laid out to dry. At least one pair of the flaps have the injection depression running the length as many people here have found. The other pair does not seem to have the depression but we'll see once I get a better look at them. As usual as well, I primer the parts on the sprues - this also helped to see any of the injection problems that have been reported. White Vallejo primer for most services, Vallejo Gloss Black for where the majority of the paint will be silver. It is a really nice gloss primer and the white went down exceptionally smoothly as well. None of the details seem to be obscured. The main gear doors definitely are showing the injection problems that have been noted: This will not be a quick build as I have two weeks of business travel this month, sandwiched around our Model Classic show on the 21st. But hope to make some progress on the cockpit this month. Stay tuned! Chris
  11. Hi guys and gals, I'm contemplating building another P-51D this time from the Pacific or China theater. I know there were some differences in equipment – notably radio and navigation – between the machines used in Europe and those used on the Pacific front. I can also use some input about the F-6D/K recce variant. Will you Mustang fans and experts care to give me some pointers? Thanks a bunch, Quang
  12. Hi gents, I'm currently working on the Revell P-51D-5NA kit and would need your expertise concerning the following detail. This early version of the P-51D still had fabric-covered elevators and rudder. As far as I know, fabric-covered areas usually had drain holes to evacuate humidity trapped inside the surfaces and prevent them from rotting. My question is: did such drain holes exist on the Mustang? Where were they located? Thank you very much for your help. All the best, Quang
  13. So for those with the actual kit in hand, and especially those who have built the kit, what is your take on Revell's job on their early Mustang? Some reviews say its terrific and the build threads here show some amazing detail especially in the cockpit. One of the new vendors here has posted his resin parts with descriptions of how bad various kit parts are, especially the flaps (which may or may not be a problem with individual kits so perhaps a production quality consistency issue?) and now the engine cowling as well as the machine gun fairings. I have the kit, have not opened it up yet, but am interested in hearing what those of you WITH the kit think? How are your flaps and cowling,etc? Thanks (and lets keep it civil, ok?) Chris
  14. Guys, I'm building the new Revell Mustang (like everyone 🤓) and am enjoying it so far until... ...a few days ago I lost the after-deck part to the carpet monster. I've sent Revell a request for a replacement but I don't count too much on it. So I decided to replicate it in plasticard. Looks like it's not too complicated to do. But then I need to understand what I'm trying to replicate, details like the part in silver and the engraved semi-circle ... Can you, Mustang experts inform me so that I could go on with my build? Thank you all Quang
  15. Hi everybody, The title says it all, really, are ther any photos to be found (preferably on the internet) of "Flying Dutchman", the P-51D-5-NA from the 31st FG in Italy? Thanks & Cheers, Erik!
  16. As i get ready to start on my Revell build, and with all of the build threads going on here, I thought it would be a good idea to try and capture the collective experience and thoughts of everyone in one place regarding suggested aftermarket bits for the new Revell P-51D. Not looking for commentary on if a suggested AM part is useful or not, but if you have actually used the AM bit, a comment on ease of implementation, gotcha's to look out for, the usual useful advice would be appreciated. Thanks, Chris
  17. Work in progress topic: http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=63538 I used: - Eduard photoetch and masks - HGW seatbelts - Yahu IP (outstanding!) - Kagero Pacific Mustangs decal set - Brassin wheels I added cables in engine, wheel bays and in cockpit. I made "uncle dog" antennas, but these are not entirely correct, maybe someday i will replace it with good ones from Tamiya Pacific P-51 kit. Kit is remarkable but there are some scratches on diamond surface - wheel bays are full of ejector pins and there is a nasty seam line on a canopy. When you manage with these problems overall effect is like somebody used a shrink gun on real Mustang! Finest kit i ever assembled.
  18. Since Gaz asked me to add photos of my P-40F, as I was searching my "man-cave", I ran across this build I did a while back: [ [ The kit's pilot was not good as good as a 1/48 scale figure in a Monogram Mustang. But at the time I did this one the very nice AM cockpit and harness detail sets weren't available. [ Once again, since I had no airbrush at the time, it was painted with Testors enamels and MM acrylics, hand bristle brushed.
  19. This set gives the modeler a one piece resin cowl that improves the fidelity of the engraved details. Details that unfortunately are lost in the injection molding operation of kit production, and appear soft or faded out. No need to rescribe or loose detail during building. Easy one cut per fuselage half, along a natural panel line. Has locators to align perfectly. https://www.ebay.com/itm/302649852463?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1558.l2649
  20. On the later model P-51's the battery was sometimes relocated to in front of the oil tank under the engine cowl to make room for more radio gear behind the pilot. I found mention somewhere online that the mounting bracket to do this was included in the Tamiya kit, but due to Photobucket being dicks, there were no photos of what the part was or how it was achieved. Can anyone here assist me with either photos, information or both please. I don't mind scratch building something if its not the case, but I have no idea what the mounting bracket would look like either. Cheers.
  21. Hi, I'm building Tamiya's classic in Pacific outfit. I've added polish Yahu instrument panel, HGW seatbelts, some Eduard Photoetch, my own wires and i will use Kagero decals.
  22. Long overdue posting here, apologies, but finally took a few final pictures. Also put BBD up on the stand as well. This is my first large-scale build having built almost exclusively in 1/48 and starting with the Tamiya P-51D was quite a treat. This is not quite an OOB build, using some Photoetch from Eduard in the engine compartment (and conveniently covered up, UGH!) and the cockpit (ditto - using the pilot figure was probably not my brightest idea ever). The HGW Seatbelts were not easy to get together - for me anyway - but really look good in this scale compared to the nightmare they were in 1/48!. The decals are a combination of Zotz checkers for the nose, Big Beautiful Doll and the wingtips checkers are from Eagle Cal and the rest from the kit itself. The paints are mostly acrylics - Tamiya TS-12 on the fuselage for example and Model Master, and the exhaust area is Model Master Metalizer. I have a lot of bottles of it from a long time ago, but it seems to keep well and I recently figured out a new venting system for my paint booth so I can actually paint with the aromatic metalizers and enamels now without smelling up the house. If you followed along the build thread you know about the issues with the nose checkers and other fun I had with this terrific kit. http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=56418&hl= Apologies - I am totally off on the white balance - I'll have to reshoot. The nose is two decals - the Zotz decals fit the Tamiya nose nearly perfectly. The nose cone/prop assembly is not overly tight so does pull away some from the fuselage. The Zotz decals require a white band to be painted around the first row of checkers, careful matching the white. I don't usually have the plane mounted on the stand, and I'm not entirely thrilled with the fit of the panel that replaces the landing gear, but BBD does look good in flight. As much detail as went into the engine bay, unless you take off all the panels much of it is hidden. I didn't super detail the topside of the engine and now regretting it. Also seeing that I'll need to be doing some weathering around the exhaust stacks. But one of my favorite items in the kit really are the figures. I love the pilot, and hope to do a mini-diorama sometime.
  23. Thought of doing something different so purchased one of Tamiya's great P-51D 1/48 scale kits. I found Warbird's set of Thunderbird Decals for the Tamiya 1/48 P-51D which are a beautiful Red White and Blue. Should build up to a nice looking plane. Painted the cockpit white in keeping with a show aircraft and the entire aircraft is MM Metalizer Buffing Aluminum Plate. I really like the Metalizer paints, but you definitely have to watch the fumes so excellent ventilation is mandatory. They shine up nice, and lose a bit of luster once sealed. Still, looks shiny! There is an ongoing story behind the decals, see below. Other side a bit different Top view Now a bit of the saga with the decals. In the picture above the USAF letters have cracked a bit after a coat of MicroSet. The insignia on the left also looks like it is cracking, but I really hope not. Interestingly enough - used MicroSet on the insignia on the fuselage sides and it seems fine. Also on the US Flag and the Thunderbirds insignia on the right side. Really curious. In the picture below, the nose and tail decals are red white and blue and for both the nose and the tail decal the red is incredibly brittle. I was extra careful with the tail decal, but even minor movement shatters the red part of the decal, which is a large part of the decal. Ugh. I contacted Warbirds and they promptly responded and are sending out a replacement set. Hope they work better! The decal on the left is the Warbirds Thunderbird Tail decal. The right is what is left of the nose decal. Where the decal was red it shattered very easily from just a little bit of movement. Down below, the sharks mouth is from a 1/32 P-40 set which I used to test fit on a P-51 before I used a different mouth from the same set. Even with all of the moving and pushing around, and ultimately, it did not even tear. So I don't think I'm doing something wrong here. Hoping the new set from Warbirds works much better. Otherwise I'm masking and painting the red white and blue!
  24. Hi everyone, After a 2 year hiatus, finally coming close to completion. I have been eagerly following everyone's Mustang WIP's for tips, tricks and hints. Thanks so much everyone for sharing as it has made 'reentry' so much easier and I hope I can add to the overall discussion. I am building the Tamiya 1:32 kit, and agree with all the positive comments others have made. I find that if something doesn't fit right, I'm not doing something right. That little bit of wisdom has saved me multiple times. I'm still trying to figure out the livery and have many options, including Big Beautiful Doll. So decisions, decisions. I'll start with the early build pics and add more later so these articles don't get too long. I've taken some color liberties such as the copper piping and a wood floor in the cockpit. I know not historically accurate, but I've seen pictures of others who have done this and I really liked how it looked. The copper is enamel sprayed right from the Testors can. Outdoors to avoid the odors. Most of the rest of the paint is Model Master or Tamiya acrylics. With the cowl panels off the copper piping will just be visible. A close up of the right sidewall. The Eduard color and placards add amazing detail. The cockpit sidewalls are a combination of the Tamiya parts and Eduard's color PE. I also have the Barracuda stencils but OMG are they tiny! Saving them for my next Mustang. Here is the left side: Next up the engine and super charger and the completed cockpit. My photo skills are improved with later pictures. :-)
  25. Feeling invincible (COMPLETELY tongue in cheek!) on the heels of finally completing my Tamiya Big Beautiful Doll I thought I'd drag out an old Dragon 1/32 P-51D kit, and what better than to do a 'what if' Claire Chennault had P-51Ds available for the Flying Tigers? I have the KitsWorld decal set for the Flying Tigers so am going to do Chuck Older's plane. Unfortunately, could not get my act together fast enough to finish before the end of the year. Recognizing right away the big difference between the two kits, my invincibility cloak fast hit the floor. Doing a 'quick build' I did the bare minimum engine build since I have no plans to open up the front and ignored the ammo bins for the wings. SOOOO closed up the fuselage, and nothing fit right. The cockpit is skewed about 2mm to one side (not sitting centered), and I had to work the engine/framing to close up the nose. No idea what was going on there. Finally got it closed. While distracted on the fuselage, I closed up the wings and was getting ready to dry fit the wings to the fuselage when I noticed the wheel well sitting in the box. Yep: closed up the wings and didn't get the wheel wells in there. Wings were dry. Sigh. So now its 'in flight'. Side note, the undercarriage parts do not fit the wing openings very well anyway. Dragon vs Tamiya I guess. Using the Model Master Acrylics, on top using Dark Earth applied irregularly with camo provided RAF Dark Green again in a mottled application as would befit and AVG aircraft. Underneath, went with a Luftwaffe sky blue. Why not? Would love to tell you that I did pre-shading underneath, but actually just worked the airbrush to darker and lighter shades. Worked really well on the Dragon plastic. I'm sure it was me, but the fit of the wings to the fuselage was terrible HUGE wing root gaps and under the nose is a gap as well. So thought I would try a technique I've seen a lot of people use, but I have never tried. Using modelers clay to outline the camo. I used to use masks, but this promised to be a lot easier. It was, but still had some problems. Worked pretty well, and the patterns were pretty easy to apply. Added bonus is they are so easy to take off the minute I'm done painting. The only problem I ran into is what looks like a residue is left over. After I'm sure everything is dry, I'll give it a wash and see what's up. Any suggestions or thoughts? After it is all dry, then a clear coat and ready for the decals. Can't wait!
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