JimInOz

Email & Photos inbound Kev. Regards Jim

Yep no worries Kev, I'll get those details to you. When I have them I will contact you off board and send it to you. Stay tuned. Cheers Jim

Phoooooooooar thats alright mate. Nice one Sean. Top work and good photos too mate. Cheers Jim

Cheers Kev, thanks for the offer (and the comment) but I was being a laggard, so my problem not yours mate. I should have put it up as a starter a month ago. Next time I'll get my arse into gear and do the post up proper. build log etc. Thanks again All the best Jim

Hi Mark, Thankyou , glad you like it. That exhaust is actually a tinned copper ferrule (or bootlace pin). I stumbled across them in my line of work (sparky) and it was a good fit to replace the exhaust on this beast. (it is a bit oo long though, I should have cut it down in length). It is not painted, I simply placed it in a gas ring flame on the cooktop until it glowed red and dumped it in the sink to cool it of. What it did was burn of the tinning (silver) and heat treated the copper base material. What you are looking at is a heat treated item, no paint. I think it works to great effect as it looks like a heat affected pipe from a turbine. HTH Thanks again. Cheers Jim

This is a superb model Karimb. What a beauty...... fine work, a masterpiece. Well done Regards Jim

Hello all. I was hoping to complete this for the "Get to the Choppa" group build but didn't finnish it until last night. Rules is rules and the GB finished on the 31st so I thought it best if I post it here. Long hiatus from the bench so this did the trick to get me back to it. Not such a bad kit for it's age, the mold stamps date themselves circa 1976 but this re-pop is from 2011. The kit was bought for me by my kids as a gift. $30 AUD at a junk sale. Not a bad buy for the amount of plastic and it was complete un-opened and in the box! Easy to work with (because of it's size) it was quite cathodic to start back on something that is not all whiz bang and complex. The kit has it's issues and there are some inacuracies with it, however I made plenty of mistakes myself so I cannot bag it, it is what it is and it "looks" like a Huey. Scratchbuilders and super detailers could have a ball with it. Most of the work is internal and once the interior is built up everything goes together fairly quickly and without too much trouble. When finnished it is BIG and my next mission is to find somewhere to stash it. Could be my 1st ceiling hanger! Anyways enough chatter.......on with the show. I have posted build pictures and the completed model. If it is in the wrong spot, or the post is too long or big I apologise. (If it is, Mods please move it to where it should go) Thanks for looking Regards Jim Interior build up shots: Just added tape belts and a ferrule pin for the exhaust tube. Dry fit shots of the big stuff before closing her up. Closed up and pre-shading and base coat on. Decals, sealing coat and the start of detailing. Finished: 1st Air Cav Vietnam 66-67 http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v141/Jim68/IMG_5081.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v141/Jim68/IMG_5088.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v141/Jim68/IMG_5093.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v141/Jim68/IMG_5096.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v141/Jim68/IMG_5097.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v141/Jim68/IMG_5098.jpg

Vrooooooooooooooooooooom. Nuff said. That is awesome. Jim

Thanks Fellas, I will try and deal with the questions 1 at a time: Big Kev, I have to agree that the paint job does tone down the "detail". However the method that helped the most was applying several coats of Future over the initial paint job and decals. This has built up in the ressesed surfaces and lessened their depth physically. I then applied quite a matt flat coat over the top of the whole plane which lessens the visual depth of the gloss clear coats. And as you have said the cammo job also helps trick the eye and makes the detail look less obvious. If I do another one I would lean more toward a Mr Surfacer type product, a couple of coats of that would work just as well. Ango Mango, much has been written, said, yelled, commented on etc. etc. etc. about this kit. The first thing I will mention is the price of this kit. I do not know of too many kits that give you so much bang for your buck. The kit I used was a later offering from Dragon which includes all the original decals fretts etc, but also includes an extra set of decals for the "Snifter".The collared or cuffed prop just doesn't look right and the vynal tyres are atrocious. (I am sure that Cammet or someone else will rectify these shortcomings shortly with aftermaket.)If not you could rob the wheels and tyres from and old Revell kit. The fit of the kit is good with exception of the windshield. This can be rectified by some sanding. There is a seam down the middle of the canopy which again can be polished out. You need to ditch the springs out of the Oleos so that the brake lines fit, no biggy as mine was displayed "bombed up" and would be low on her legs anyway. If you proceed using patience, (in my opinion the greatest of all modelling skills) and are prepared to do some minor work there is nothing in this kit that is insurmountable. LSD, got the inspiration at my Local Hobby shop when I spied a set of Decals for Various Aussie Stangs, Mine should be a K by the way Hope that goes some way to answer your questions Fellas, thanks again for the beaut comments. Cheers. Jim

Hi gents, no build log for this one ( A tad too busy but it is finished!) and I haven't posted a lot up lately. A Fair bit of artistic liscense with regard to the aircrafts scheme, but you will not see too many of these done up like this one, so at least it's different. I need to make a gunsight reflector for her, as the shed floor now owns the one that came with the kit Fire when ready! Cheers fellas. Jim

G'day Ango Check this review out from AMI, little bit more info on "Silver" spits, VC's too. 85 Squaddy locals? I wonder if they were based at Pearce??????????????. Cheers. Jim. http://www.aussiemodeller.com/pages/Review...D4831spitVc.htm

Hey Matt I am surprised the oven cleaner doesn't work. I have stripped enamel with it in the past.It may be that you are using "girls blouse" oven cleaner. Put your part in a zip lok bag or an old chinese take away container, and let it soak over night in some stronger stuff. Next day wash off with warm water and a brush. You need something with more "caustic" in it. Just glove up and do it in a well ventilated area. What enamels are you using??? I have successfully used this method with Humbrol and MM enamels. Hope it works out. Cheers Jim

Dave! Welcome to LSP and keep it coming mate. So far so good, very nice work. I will be interested to see what you do with the external weathering, I do not no if the Salt technique will work with rattle cans, someone here may be able to offer advise. I have seen some excellent finishes done this way. Whatever you do I am sure you will tackle it with similar ability you have already shown us. Well done. Jim

G'day Murph good to see you back on deck and sorry to hear about your Dad. Looks like you are building him a terrific tribute, it all looks very good so far. I am also building up a Stang using this kit and the biggest drama I have had so far is due to my ineptitude! Be very careful when glueing up all the components that make up the front end. I fubar'd mine I am sure you wont do the same, keep the updates coming Cheers Jim Deleted the piccy it was a tad large, sorry chaps

Hi Erwin, I will second what Derek has sugested, Humbrol Mettalcote Aluminium. It is pretty easy to manipulate its finnish. If you wish to give your finnish a flatter look, simply apply a matte coat to the finnished product. Or if you think it needs to be glossier, you can can use a satin or gloss coat over it. The DC3 below has a clear matt coating over it and the Tiger has had a gloss finnish applied. Both are painted with the Humbrol Mettalcote. HTH Jim

Nice one Hacker! She's a beauty. A lot of work has gone in to her, and it shows. Well done. Cheers. Jim

G'day Erwin, you could try mixing Future with Tamiya flat base (X-22 or XF-22 from memory). The more flat base you mix in with the Future the "Flatter" it gets. I would experiment a bit with percentage of Flat Base to Future, but as a rule of thumb, a 10 to 1 ratio of ten parts Future to 1 part Flat Base will give you a "Matt" finish. If you think it is too Flat reduce the amount of Flat Base to the Future.If you think it is still too Glossy add a bit more flat base to the mixture. I would experiment with different ratios until you are happy with the results. Make sure you mix your recipe thoroughly, and note down which ratio works for future reference. DO NOT use too much flat base in your mix or your finnish will look like icing on a cake! I keep an old airframe handy for trying out these methods on first.I suggest you do the same. If you use this method it will negate your enamel over acrylic concerns as both Future and the Tamiya Flate Base are both acrylic based. I can't for the life of me remember which one it is X-22 or XF-22 but it is the milky or opaque one you are looking for.Your Hobby shop should have it . Apply the mix to your model the same way you would your gloss Future coat, nice and steady even brush strokes. Hope this helps Erwin, just remember to do a bit of experimenting first. Cheers. Jim.

Ango excellent work mate, that seat looks spot on, lot of work has gone into it and it has paid off. Exhaust stubbs look excellent too! The extra effort is well worth it. Love all of the work you have done so far, even the jaudacious pillfering bit! You da man Ango, keep it coming mate. Cheers Jim

This is the bees knees Geoff, all of it so far is superb, should be a masterpiece when it's finished mate.I Look forward to more progress pics.Well done. Cheers. Jim

G'day Vernon, no such thing as a silly question mate. I have found this link to Matt Swans site the best resource for information on "future" and what you can do with it. http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html All the best . Jim

Jimbo this is stunning stuff mate, can smell the dope drying on her. Magnifecent attention to detail, and a very fine effort for someone who has chosen to hop back in the saddle after a break. Simply beautiful. Jim

Ahem! Mr Bradshaw, what i am seeing through this piece of technology looks mighty fine. (Please bear in mind that I am upside down too!) Enough of this "humble" talk Derek, I wish to add my name to the "well done" list of commentators here. Keep it coming mate, inspiring to all! Jim PS........ By the way I am not referring to anyone as a "cheap dirty potato from Bolton!" when i say "commentator".

Can't comment on the aftermarket stuff GSNeil, but it builds up pretty good OOB. Just finished this one recently, it took out 2nd place (aircraft) at my club last night . I was very happy with the result of the build, it was as cheap as chips to buy and it pips Hassy's effort at the post. Things to watch out for are : 1. Bottom allignment of wings to fusualage. 2. Alignment of engine covers/panels.(I built mine with them off, I doubt they would line up if they were fitted. However a dry fit of these pieces and a quick sand would fix that no worries.) 3. Detail is a bit light on in the cockpit compared to "new release" efforts, but the engine shines, and there must be a squillion aftermarket answers for the cockpit if you so choose to add to it! 4. You will require some decals! mine were stuffed because of age and they were of a dubious nature with regard to accuracy and quality of print. 5. Engraved panel lines are deep.(typical matchbox). None of the above points are insumountable, and I thoroughly enjoyed the build. The kit was cheap and it looks like an "emil" to me . Cheers. Hope that helps, go for it and I wanna see yours if you do Jim

Bugger, bit late as usual Dave. F is for "Filthy Wench". Aint nuttin like a good looking filthy wench. Love it Dave .Cheers Jim

G'day Klimmer, welcome to LSP mate. I think Piet has nailed it on the head. Start by using water colour washes and pastel washes, they will not harm your paintjob and they are easy to remove if mistakes are made. Once you are comfortable with these methods you could try some of the oil wash methods. Perhaps starting with a few oil stains from around engine cowl seams, or fuel filler points. Perhaps even from radiator vents, like glycol leaks etc. These are only small jobs and even I have managed to master them! That way you are not committing a whole model to the scrapheap! With regard to your finish, yes it is a bit shiny, but what the lads have suggested here, is good advice too. As for the airbrush, well thats just getting used to your particular brush and your particular paints and your own style. You would get 50 different answers from 50 different people about the same question! (You seemed to have nailed the basics Klimmer, your paintjob is very tight.) I also find music is good to paint to, dunno why but it works for me . Keep asking questions and keep participating, you will not be dissapointed, the Spitfire you see here has been weathered and effects applied with pastels. It is flat coated using the 10% Tamiya flat base + 90% future method (see the above link that Piet posted). It was applied over Humbrol enamels, and shot thru a Paasche H brush, which is by no means an expensive brush but it is good. Go for it man! pleased to have you here. Jim