mattlow

That section of the canopy is pretty straightforward shape (isn't it). Could you not get hold of some clear plastic and put in the two bends so it sits on the existing framework? That'd be my first course of action. Matt PS - nice progress.

Really nice work Rick. Makes me wish I hadn't flogged my kit off... Matt

Really nice result. I have found that many Revell kits suffer from sinkage. It almost feels like their IM machines don't have the guts to do the moulds justice. Gives me a push to get on with mine... Matt

OK, put some of the decals into one of the gear bays last night. Conclusion they're too big, too bold and I should have put them in at an angle to the stringers, not parallel to them. That said, they look quite good (and a lot better in real life than in macro). The decals were printed on basic clear decal film, with a generic inkjet cartridge in a Canon Pixma iP4000. Left to dry for a day and then given several (say 5) light coats of Games Workshop 'Purity Seal'. They behaved quite well no runs (even with application of Mr Mark Softener). I see a couple still need a bit of attention, but the experiment seems a success. They really do, however, need a proper decal company to do a set... P-51D-5 53 by Matt Low, on Flickr Need to finish wing and get it joined to body now... Matt

I said I'd take a closer look at the canopy fit, before everyone runs off and buys Tamiya parts... Here's my observations: P-51D-5 50 by Matt Low, on Flickr A: The Tamiya windscreen has a slightly shallower radius than the Revell forward fuselage. Shimming for B (below) won't totally get rid of this and some sanding of the Revell fuselage will be necessary. B: Tamiya windscreen slightly narrower, will need a little shim on mine. C: Tamiya windscreen may at its apex (where meeting forward fuselage) sit a fraction taller than fuselage - slight pressure will bring the parts level - shim mentioned at B may help with this matter. D: Tamiya canopy a smidgen narrower than Revell sill. Not sure if the reinforcing brace could assist with pushing canopy a little wider. Not an issue if the canopy is open. E: good fit between canopy and windscreen after adjustments made to get Tamiya windscreen to sit correctly. So, not perfect, but not bad (as it is from a different kit). P-51D-5 51 by Matt Low, on Flickr P-51D-5 52 by Matt Low, on Flickr P-51D-5 49 by Matt Low, on Flickr One other thing is that your results may vary as there's been so much variation in apparent fit when using the kit parts. Hope this helps. Matt

So, after re-ordering the three different lines of text to a more prototypical format, I've printed a few lines of the stamps out. P-51D-5 48 by Matt Low, on Flickr Basically you have these lines A line which just repeats ALCLAD 24 S-T Another repeating ALCLAD 24 S-T AN-A-13 ALCLAD 24 S-T The above lines alternate until at what seems to be the 9th line we get ALCOA REG.TM .051" The REG. and T.M. are directly above each other (can't do that on this system). There are different thicknesses of alu sheet. .051" is the thickness of the wheel well roof and the outer skin of the inner gear doors. I have also run off a line of .032" (vertical tail skin), .081 (wing fuel tank covers) and .040" horizontal tail skin).. I can use these if I want to depict any stamped outer skin panels. Matt

Over on BritModeller, I've had some great help from John Terrell, looking at the stamps on the aluminium of the mustang's skin etc. It shows up mainly in the wells (as that is the inside of the skin) but John showed some images of a restoration which has faithfully replicated those locations where the stamps were on the outside. Once I saw the stamps in the wheel well I thought I'd need something to represent them. So, a bit of study, some faffing around in MS Word and I had this. It's a 'scale-ish' replica. Printed out for a test on plain paper. It'd be good to see someone else do a proper decal run (like MDC did for Luftwaffe alu stamps). There are different versions (mainly for different thickness of alu) but also another manufacturer and a stainless steel stamp I've been made aware of. Teeny tiny..... P-51D-5 47 by Matt Low, on Flickr Just about legible... P-51D-5 46 by Matt Low, on Flickr Have to try on decal paper now... Matt

I really like this. I particularly like the pics where the silhouette of the 'jungle' and the dome appear on the card board. Matt

I do like that Eagle resin 'pit. Especially as they (uniquely as far as I know) have depicted the canopy track slots going all the way to the windscreen - very prototypical and adds to the realism of that area. It also illustrates how all other representations have had to compromise here.

I have noted that the Tamiya canopy may just catch the top of the pilot's head armour - very slightly (or only just misses) I haven't totally cleaned up the attachment on the canopy and one is right on the front lip. If canopy is to be open a definite non-issue. Now fuselage is closed I shall do a more detailed assessment of fit so you'll know what you're letting yourselves in for. Matt

https://www.tamiyausa.com/faq/customer_service.php This looks like it is where you need to go... Matt Edit: Fuselage went together last night. No nasty surprises yet. Almost all seams went together well. small seam between front of tail gear well and cooler exit needed a little shim rather than squeezing fuselage too hard..

Have you considered thin alu sheet (wine bottle tops, food packaging etc...)? It'll hold its shape and you can use superglue. Matt

I shall wait for Revell to release theirs. I'm not short of projects to keep me busy Matt

Hi Gaz This has come on very impressively since I saw it ages ago... You're certainly not lacking in skills, the woodgrain has come out brilliantly. Something you need to keep in mind is that in choosing a Roden kit, you're doing a considerably harder build than anyone doing a WNW. The outcomes you're getting with this 'tricky' kit suggest you'll get an even better result when you do a WNW. Matt

Hi Dennis I should have thought to put the details down.. Remember I had the correct type canopy already so I don't know how much one of those would cost (it comes on its own sprue - M1 I recall). The sprue you want for the windscreen is L parts 9116058. Kit ref is 60322 I emailed initially (service@hobbyco.net) and they came back next day with a quote. Then you ring them up and they will take your card details - simple. The Hobby Company Limited Garforth Place, Knowlhill, Milton Keynes, MK5 8PG Telephone 44 (0)1908 605 686 Facsimile 44 (0)1908 605 666 www.hobbyco.net Matt

Alan You're confusing me with someone else (D Bellis). My ears are still complete and I can't really see why anyone would need to cut them off (apart from a certain Vincent). Also it is mostly a gap beneath the windscreen part, rather than a width issue (just looks that way in the photo). The Tamiya part still needs a little tweaking to get it to sit as far down as it needs. Also note that the Tamiya canopy doesn't quite meet up tidily with the windscreen due to the latter part sitting up a little at the front. Sanding sticks should sort all these little alignment issues. By the way, there is some top quality Mustang finish/colours discussion going on over at BritModeller on the Missouri Armada thread (linked to earlier). Matt

As I've said elsewhere, one thing I am disappointed with is the canopy and Windscreen. They both have distortion that appears to be a combination of surface irregularity and internal flow marks (so no polishing out). I had a spare Tamiya early canopy which fits beautifully. I tried the windscreen as well. Handily, the windscreen will fit with a little fettling of the mating surfaces. I have now contacted Tamiya's importer and have a couple of spare windscreen sprues on their way to me (for subsequent Mustangs). They were £7.99 each, but if you think of them as aftermarket that isn't too bad (with £4.50 postage). Their addition really does make quite a difference, especially on that great big canopy. The windscreen sprue also gives you windscreen armour, two gunsights, rear view mirror, nav lights - so is quite useful. Tamiya windscreen and canopy in place... look at the lovely clarity... it really raises the kit in my view... P-51D-5 43 by Matt Low, on Flickr P-51D-5 44 by Matt Low, on Flickr The previous and following images show that I need to take a little more material of the bottom of the windscreen (or fuselage) to allow the windscreen to sit properly. The windscreen is sitting over the Revell coaming so no issues there. P-51D-5 45 by Matt Low, on Flickr Finally, the thinness of the Tamiya canopy (Revell's is pretty thin, mind you) makes it naturally 'drop' down onto the spine of the fuselage in the open position. This is a characteristic sit and adds to 'the look'. P-51D-5 42 by Matt Low, on Flickr Matt

What I forgot to say yesterday was that the Airscale decals were Luftwaffe placards and dials. I think it'd be rather good if Airscale did a set for the Mustang. Something a bit simpler than the excellent but fiddly Barracuda set. This could also include some red Alclad stamps that were often apparent in the wheel bays and on various unpainted surfaces (and not always on the inside of the aircraft). Matt

Very nice. You're using the Vallejo water based metallics... how do you find they spray and cover? There's going to be a flurry of these crossing the finish line in the next weeks. Matt

At the back end I have finished the canvas boot for the tail gear leg (Plasticine coated in Superglue) and put doped covers over the lightening holes in the well structure (saw this in an image of an unrestored Swiss machine). Most of this will hardly be seen when closed up. P-51D-5 36 by Matt Low, on Flickr P-51D-5 34 by Matt Low, on Flickr P-51D-5 33 by Matt Low, on Flickr P-51D-5 41 by Matt Low, on Flickr I don't know why I did close ups of this as it looks like it has been sculpted out of dog poo! I can assure you it looks fine at normal viewing.. Still a thoroughly enjoyable build. Matt

Just a few update photos of construction... 'pit is just about finished and I may join the fuselage halves this evening. To me at least, the P-51 'pit is characterised by lots of placards - they're everywhere! I put what Revell supply in but it looked a bit bare. So (and don't tell anyone else) I used various 1/32 and 1/48 Airscale decals to spruce it up. I went for general shape of placard. I've added a couple of odds and ends to the pit but nothing fundamental (couple of wires, throttle linkage). Need to add scuffing to the floor before closing up... P-51D-5 37 by Matt Low, on Flickr P-51D-5 38 by Matt Low, on Flickr P-51D-5 39 by Matt Low, on Flickr P-51D-5 40 by Matt Low, on Flickr My interior green doesn't look as radioactive in real life..

What comes next ? Hopefully a lull in releases to allow some time to catch up with what's already released..

The Aires full set pictured above, will have issues. After all, you're butchering chunks off of the base kit and replacing with big chunks of resin. Aires' 190D and similar 109G sets can be made to look fantastic - do a google search or even search LSP's archives. I agree with those who say the MDC 'pits are good. Vincent is a master at making masters and he pays a lot of attention to the details. They fit as the original parts. MDC also do a DB 605, just the engine, I recall Vincent was mastering a whole engine bay (which would have been something to behold) but it never reached fruition . Eduard's resin for the Revell G-6 is nice, though Revell's pit is pretty good and I would just scratch the missing elements. Eagle Parts' parts are very nice... pretty pricey unless you find them at a show or eBay. Their props, cowl corrections intakes etc for the Hasegawa 190 and 109 are very useful. My recommendation if you don't want hassle, but want a good looking 'pit at a reasonable price is to go MDC. Matt

There is/was a correction set that replaced pretty much whole nose (inc prop I recall) and wheel spats... That'll give you an idea of what may be less than accurate.. Matt

In order to further this thread's degeneration I must insist that ICM are actually tooling up a 1/32 Skoda Kauba SK 257, with looks well ahead of its time... sk257-3 by Matt Low, on Flickr