LSP_Ray

Nice work, ap! Nice to see another Oregonian here. Will I be able to see this one in the flesh at McMinnville???

Yup, I reviewed the kit here: http://www.largescaleplanes.com/reviews/review.php?rid=732

Having been a subscriber of Air Modeller (and AFV Modeller btw) since the beginning, I can attest that their builds are of the highest quality. I am betting the book will be a great asset.

If you watch for it, the 1:32 Dragon Bf 110D-1:R1 'Dackelbauch' - DR3207 I have seen as low as $50-$60!!! As a matter of fact, I may have an extra floating around I got on sale. You don't have to build it with the bloated fuel tank; you can build it as a standard 'D'. Such as here at Sprue Brothers: http://store.spruebrothers.com/product_p/dml3207.htm . ...And I do have one extra I want to dispose of! I would sell it for $55 with free shipping inside the continental 48...

The VFS one is not bad! I believe Chris Sherland had a hand in the details. The cockpit isn't bad at all, although in 1/24th molded-on wiring drives me nuts so I am removing it all on mine. The exterior detailing is much better than on the first kit, the P-40B/C.

Happy Birthday Mike-who-has-the-same-birthday-as-me! Please pick the model that makes you the most happy. Damn, I wish I was 30 again!

Well there was the Ghostriders, and the polka dot ones, but I don't remember the others.

I plan on "White 576 Marine's Dream." Probably overdone, but I haven't done it yet! I had planned on doing it with a conversion of Trumpy's kit, but not now!!! I already have the decals; I think they were done by CE.

IIRC, birdcage F4u's started in blue-gray over light grey but many were repainted in the new tri-color scheme. And I believe some were in hybrid schemes, such as dark sea blue over blue grey over white as they left the blue grey as a stand in for mid-blue. Oh, on the acrylics vs enamels debate: Tamiya acrylics airbrush smoother with less clogging and better durability if you thin them with Tamiya's own lacquer thinner. Of course, it does defeat one of the purposes of going to acrylics... Also Tamiya brushes horribly. Vallejo or Games Workshop is the best for brushing.

There was, I will see if I can help find it. I think it was by Steve Galucci.

There was also some changes in the instrument panel. This included moving the gun controls from the lower left of the panel to the top left of the coaming. Later on, in the -1D, bomb and rocket arming panel was added to the top of the right side of the coaming. I seem to recall some changes to the circuit breaker panel, but would have to check my ref's to confirm. Oh, also the window in the bottom of the fuselage disappeared.

1. I use CA glues: thin, gap-filling, and an acrylic-based one (Gator Glue) when I need time for positioning, like with small PE parts. 2. I use mostly enamels. I do use a primer, either Tamiya or Gunze Mr. Surfacer 1200, especially if the kit is a multi-media with white metal and/or PE parts. 3. I will use any filler that works for a specific type of joint. If you use CA for a filler, use an accelerator and sand as soon as possible so it is still a little soft. Once it is completely cured it is much harder than the surrounding resin. I also use putty and Milliput putty for large gaps. 4. Do as little scribing as you get away with. I use the Hasegawa Tri-tools or Radu's scriber as they make finer lines than the Bare Metals one. 5. I agree with the others: hot water is usually the best bet. Get it straight then run it under cool water to set it. 6. I would start with the cleanest resin kit in your collection as a first go. The Silver Wings kits are nearly injection molded in their quality. Same goes for Montex and HpH kits. I don't have any experience with the XS stuff. Hope this helps!

FYI: typically while a company can trademark a name, such as "Stearman," they cannot trademark a generic designation such as Primary Trainer XT-1 (or whatever the government assigned to the Stearman. That is why you see kits of the Willys Jeep only marked as "1/4 ton Utility 4x4."

Ummm...that's Trumpeter's kit...

I just ordered one yesterday, too. I waited last time for the N to show up in the US before I ordered and it really never did (at least it was always sold out before I could get one). So not waiting this time. I suggest anyone that wants one order quick as HLJ is already showing it as low stock!

Although I would love to see a new Corsair or FW, couldn't "new kit" just as easily mean a Korean War F-51D? The extra parts in their P-51 kits seem to point to it. Or did he actually say 'new 1/32nd aircraft" in stead of new kit?

The B-25 with the 75mm is the "hose nose."

I like B the best also, although I think all 3 are very nice and look very professional. B just looks more dynamic as Kev said. I would even have the wheel of the landing gear overlay the border also.

I like the top cover. The red stripe makes it stand out. How about "Movin' Mud: The Spad & Bug"

Hey, Dutik, nice to see another fan! I have that set, too. It is fantastic, isn't it?

That is what I would go with!

Hmmm... I am unable to fix your pics so they show. You might have to use a different paste link from the site.

Check out the Radu Briznan tools, here . They work quite well. Or you could use a set of jewelry beading tools, but then you have to make them one by one, a daunting task for a first try.

I think the Aero Detail books have rivet detail. Don't think they are 1/32nd though.

Got mine, too! Thanks, Joe. I haven't had a chance to take more than a quick glance due to Xmas, but will shortly. Casting looks great, though.