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About kensar

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    LSP Junkie

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    western North Carolina

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  1. Pete - I made the pulleys on my lathe. Some general progress... Moving to the top wing next. Thanks for following along and commenting, everyone. Ken
  2. I'm replacing the molded-in detail of the aileron pulleys. Getting on with the general painting and decaling.
  3. woodgrain done with oils A little chipping also... loading up the gun... Still slogging through the general painting.
  4. Tom, I am interested in hearing how the acrylic 'oil' paints work. Do post about the results you get - how the final results look and how long it takes to dry.
  5. Sure, Albert. Its the 'standard' oil paint finish used by many builders of WW1 aircraft. First I paint the part with a light tan color water based paint. I use Tamiya desert yellow (its tan, not yellow). Then break out the artist's oil paint. I use raw Sienna or Burnt Sienna for a red colored wood, Raw Umber or Burnt Umber for a dark brown colored wood, like walnut, or I mix raw Sienna with some Yellow Ochre for a lighter colored wood. If the oil paint is used out of the tube, it will take weeks to dry. To speed up the drying time, I squeeze out some paint onto some brown cardboard and spread it out some. The cardboard absorbs the oil in the paint. After about 20 minutes or so, your'e ready to paint. I also mix a little 'drying oil' (sold along with oil paints) with the paint to thin it out. I may use some turpinoid (like turpentine), but not usually. Now I apply the paint over the tan paint on the part. Its better to use a coarse bristled brush to get a good wood grain effect. Varying direction of the brush strokes also gives a nice wood grain. Now set it aside for at least a week to dry to the touch. Then overcoat with a clear coat or Tamiya clear yellow or clear orange. Oil paints are a pain to use, but its the only type of paint I have found that works. If you search around the web you'll find a number of tutorials on how to create wood grain using oil paints. I hope this will help you out.
  6. You could have a look at WW1aircraftmodels.com forum. There are subforums with scratchbuild projects posted.
  7. Thanks for stopping by, guys. "What did you use for the wrapping on the control stick grip and the tail skid?" For the control stick, I used metal wire, which was pretty stiff for this application. Not liking this, I used tan sewing thread dipped in white glue for the tail skid wrapping. If I do another control stick in the future, I will use sewing thread on that as well.
  8. Very nice result! I especially like the oil drips and mud splatters on the bottom of the wing.
  9. I have put the cockpit together and prepped the fuse... I added some binding on the tailskid as seen on some WW1 planes. The pilot's seat sits very low in the fuse, so one would be able to see back into the fuselage. I penciled in some shadowy details. The fuselage is closed up now and I am turning my attention to some exterior details.
  10. Hello AlbertD, I hope you find the WNW kit as enjoyable to build as I am. I did not use eyelets on the framework. I drilled small holes (0.013") through the frame and threaded the monofilament through. I used superglue to secure both ends of the rigging.
  11. I've started my first WNW model - the Sopwith Pup. So far, the parts have fit together properly and there's been no drama. The kit has options for 80 hp Gnome or 100 hp Gnome versions. I built both engines and decided to go with one of the 80 hp versions - 'Baby Mine' as on the boxart. Both engines had noticeable gaps between the front and back halves of the cylinders. I probably should have sanded both halves flat before gluing them together, but the cowling hides most of the engine anyway. 80 hp Gnome engine. The photos have over emphasized the colors. They actually look much more subdued and realistic. I have scratchbuilt the IP, thinking I could do better than the kit part. Yea, I know the airspeed indicator is upside down. Funny how you don't notice those things until its too late. Other interior bits: Thanks for looking. Comments are welcome.
  12. A quick build after the Hanriot, 1/48 SZD-32 Foka 5
  13. As far as the finish, I would investigate a paint mix of flat gray mixed with silver, but how sophisticated you want to go is up to you of course.
  14. Just an FYI - I wash small parts in a tea ball. Spray the cleaner in the ball with the pieces, close it up and hold it under running water. Never lost anything.
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