Gigant

To get that effect, I hand-brush an un-thinned satin or matt acrylic clear-coat over the decals (which is milky in the first place), which also acts as a sealer for the decals. For the lettering, I suggest practicing on sheets of regular paper, make up the characters you want, and see about transferring them to decal film, adjusting the size accordingly with either the computer or printer software.

That's "Grumpy Old Men", Hubert. Welcome Sasa! And thank you for keeping us posted with your photos.

It never ceases to amaze me to see the pains that those who are obsessed with airbrushing go through to create things like hard borders on WW I and British WW II camo paint schemes. Like Gaz did, to avoid the typical acrylic paint-lifting problem, I try to find a good flat enamel for the base color also. But what I do after that is hand-brush on an acrylic. That way if I need to mask something, like the straight-edged Luftwaffe splinter camo schemes, the base-coat enamel won't lift up with the tape.

! When you "correct" the door, are you thinking of also accenting the panel lines through the upper-wing roundals, etc?

Nice jab, I too like the spinning propeller. As for painting, I prefer hand-brush painting WW I aircraft, especially since as we know, except for the German lozenge pattern, they simply were actually hand-punted camo schemes with "hard borders", no "over-spray" back then. And, with any degree of skill, you need little or no masking either.

Looking good-what are the magnets for?

Shawn M, on 05 Mar 2018 - 2:56 PM, said: I was thinking the same thing. The Guillows' tissue is "Silkspan", which I also applied with white glue, but they are recommending "UHU" glue these days. In any case I would be leery about anything which is "heat-sealed to the model", and would have to experiment with using a heat-gun on a low setting after I made sure the tissue was firmly tacked in place. Of course, you should to regard the grain of the tissue in order to determine the direction of the shrinkage and cut-and-glue it in place accordingly, and yours does not look quite right to me. The idea of using a clothing iron to form tissue over a surface that is not flat doesn't sound right to me. On this website, that has the directions, they have a special "sealing iron" that they sell along with the CoverLite stuff: http://www.hobbylinc...covcovq1804.htm Please also notice where it says: "If the CoverLite wrinkles around the iron, lower the iron temperature"! That is why I would suggest that in addition to buying the special iron, also trying a heat-gun.

I'm taking notes...

I agree. IMHO, the moguls here should archive a copy of the first post with its' exhaustive list of results as a product review.

So far so good Jan. Would you be able to share/show your favorite PE tools/techniques?

In any case, I would perhaps mix a drop or two in a small amount of your OD paint for the ailerons. As for the insignia, I would test an acrylic white mixed with a flat clear acrylic varnish (of the same paint mfr.), and see if I could make a "wash" or clear/milky color that might lighten up the typical insignia blue. I have had fun experimenting with painting decals with acrylics, as they do not damage them.

Looking great David! Here is another photo of her that might help you with the overall finish: http://www.ww2incolor.com/us-air-force/B25J-AVE-MARIA.html In addition to overall paint chipping/weathering, it kinda looks like the insignia (which looks kinda bleached-out) on the wing and the cowling ring might be the same color, as well as the ailerons appearing a shade lighter then the main wing. Hth, Tom

Fantastic job! As Harv mentioned, your weathering is among the best I have ever seen-just right, not overdone! Thank you for sharing.

I take it that this your latest product offering?

I think it depends on what you stick it to. Of course surface prep is the main thing, and if you are unsure, it pays to test it on a spare/scrap surface. You might also check with our expert "foil-guy", Gazzas, who might be found at his latest foil-build: http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=73209&hl=

Have you seen this build? http://www.largescaleplanes.com/articles/article.php?aid=141

Harbor Freight Tools sells foil tape along with duct tape, Tex.

Very nice! I like how your weathering is not "too much" Is that RAF Coastal Command?

Thank you... Completely hand-bristle brush painted, with Testors MM unmixed, straight from the bottle. It levels beautifully. Thanks, and they still are! They still have this one on the local Hobby Lobby store shelf. Do some finished photos, and either PM me or post a link here!

Try the container aisle at your local Wal-Mart, and/or: https://www.amazon.com/Sterilite-14138606-Layer-Stack-8-Inch/dp/B00NIVBEDA 10 5/8" @ $ 13.57 each

I just picked up the recent re-release of their older P-51B, and it has a conventional lid-and-bottom-tray box, and the decal/paint scheme option for a "Blue-Nose'r".

Nice paint job!

Looks to me like you're doing great, Don. I had the exact same experience with Testors acryls, both their regular paints and MM stuff. Like everyone else, I've got a spray can of Tamiya primer handy to try with the new set of Vajello paints. But I do recommend that you in order of take care of the tape-peeling problem, try the following: After cleaning off the old paint, as Brian said, I would lightly dull/roughen the areas with some 600 grit wet/dry. In this case, after priming, I would paint the darker anti-glare panels first with a flat enamel. Then, after they were dry, I would mask them with tape, and then finish the rest. That way you eliminate the risk of messing up the silver color again with any sort of tape.

Been there, done that Don, and I came to the same conclusion. Acrylics are OK for top coats, but for a durable base, I use enamels or lacquers. For instance: http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=70574&hl=

Thank you. Actually the kit is a relatively straightforward, no-problem build, OOB. The big deal was fashioning a weight for the nose by hammering a lead fishing weight into the right shape to fit into the bombardier's tunnel. I really need to add some more photos...