Joel_W

Brian, thanks for that tip as well as adding positive camber to the main gear struts. Gee, I feel like I'm setting up my front suspension when I use to road race. I'm planning on epoxying a square piece of brass tubing through the main wing to add strength to both the joint and aid in keeping it level while drying. I'm also going to be taping it to a piece of glass so it has a perfectly flat surface to also aid in keeping it level. A 3rd Bronco!! Now that's something considering it doesn't have bi-wings and a lot of rigging. Joel

Well, after finally finishing the almost 6 month build of the A-4E Scooter, it's time to start another build. I've long been a fan of the North American Rockwell AV-10 Bronco. Kitty Hawk has produced an excellent 1/32 scale series of OV-10 kits, so it was a no brainer for me to go with the A/C version. With it's massive greenhouse, I opted on Eduard's mask set, and their upgrade PE Interior. I also decided to go with AOA decals, as they're one of the best decals I've ever used, and the instruction sheet contains a wealth of detail information. I was planning on doing one of the several Marine O.D/Gray schemes till I started to take a close look at the Navy's Blue/Gray with white upper white wings, and decided on one of those schemes: the build naturally starts with the cockpit, and the 1st order of business is the duel seats. Each seat consists 12 individual pieces that fit together like a glove. The back cushion is nicely molded to look like a cushion, but the seat cushion is just as smooth as a baby's butt. So I decided to apply a light coat of Bondo Glazing putty, then sculpt in wrinkles and creases to make it slightly more visually interesting. The cushions were painted Green Drab FS 34102 which are called out on the instruction sheet, a real nice touch by Kitty Hawk. The sides rest of the seat was painted Dark Gray FS 36231, and the Red pack between the two seat plates flat Red. All colors are custom mixes using Tamiya Acrylics except the flat Red over Mig Ammo black primer. Kitty Hawk supplies you with a small PE fret that contains seatbelts and harness. I just hated the way that they looked just glued to the seats with no life to them at all. So I put the fret to the side and made my own out of two layers of masking tape. Buckles and latches are from left over PE Eduard sets. Then I painted them a base color, a shade darker then the seats. Believe it or not, this took nearly a full week to do. Talk about being a slow builder. Up next is detailing the seats, then weathering them especially the belts to bring some much needed life to both of them. Then it's on to the duel seat pit. Joel

Don Simply outstanding. Those markings look spectacular Joel

Dan, Be here since day 1. Congrats on getting to the base coat stage. She looks great. Joel

Peter, Just a great start to a rather complex build. So far the Pit really looks the part. Even in those close ups, every detail has been done precisely with meticulous detail painting. I'm pulling up my chair and will be following your build to its conclusion. Joel

Jim, The level of detail, is just amazing. Everything is finally coming together and points to an outstanding display piece. .The landing gear really looks good, especially after you've finished the rigging. Joel

Bill, ​ I'm guessing I can build until 80-85, that's a max of 15 years if nothing physical or mental strikes me like most things have. I guess my areas of interest are pretty narrow and cease after Vietnam. I did build a F-15C in 1/48 scale, but it was from Jim on Aeroscale, so technically I built it as a build review blog, not a kit I chose to purchase. Joel

Brian, I've got 6 bottles of MRP paints for just interiors. I've shied away from making the switch from Tamiya and my new "love": Mig Ammo paints, because their just so hard to get when I need them for the 1st go around, not for re-supplies. Joel

Jennings, I stand corrected. That's why I said when you google it the official name comes up along with the FS number and color chip. I just should have said "the name that comes up". But as modelers we've been calling certain FS colors by an associated name since IPMS came into being. Joel

Brian is correct that the fuselage and lower wing color is FS 36473 official known as Blue-Gray if you google the FS number. The top of th wing is White FS37875. the issue comes as I looked at literally hundreds of pictures of operational aircraft, and they're some what on the dirty side, plus shadows etc. I plan on following Brian's advice to the letter about the gear needing positive camber as there is no metal AM gear available. I'm currently just starting my own Kitty Hawk Bronco with the goal of a decent IPMS entry for the Noreastcon and Mosqitocon next year. Joel

Bill, Unfortunately, that's the story more often then not about Trumpeter kits. Some really good, most marginal requiring a lot of AM, and some just so bad they're not worth the effort like their P-51B and F6F-3/5. Both Iconic aircraft at are musts for me, and to build them I'm once again looking at 1/48 scale. I'll have to admit that the move to 1/32 scale hasn't been the next big step up I thought it was going to be. Joel.

Brian, Your reasoning for both the base coat and choosing Alcad 2 Airframe Aluminum makes quite a lot of sense. So much so, that I've added it to my Alcad notes sheet, as at my age I tend to forget way too many things. Joel

Peter, Not so sure that moving the blister means all that much. One really has to compare the kit to the original at the same time to see the difference. If you didn't mention it, i'm sure that no one here would have noticed it. Joel

Brian, Thanks for the information on Zap A Gap Med CA glue. I've found that at least for me the extra thin CCA glue just is more of a pain then it's worth, so I switched to med and gel and have gotten better results. I've just tried Gorilla CCA glues, both their regular and Gel, and I'm quite impressed. the regular is actually more like a medium viscosity that fits my needs perfectly. and so far not a single issue with tip clogging or tip build up on the outside. I've also used Loctite CCA glues and love their applicator squeeze sides, but they don't have a medium CCA glue as yet. Joel

Craig, As for better photographs, it all depends on what equipment you're using, and how you're using it. Joel

Rich, All things being equal, I vote for the F-8E just because there are a million F-4 builds on LSP and hardly any F-8 builds. Joel

Brian, Outstanding progress. she sure looks big. Nice job on those Exhaust cans. Joel

Bro, Had your 6 the whole way, and while it was two steps backwards, it's 3 Giant steps forward. the seats look truly outstanding. Bro

Joel, I gave up 1/72 scale a million years ago. I can't even see 1/48 scale that well, so I moved up to 1/32 for single engine props and small jets. I've been toying with the idea of getting one of those craft cutters, and learning how to make simple masks, then move on to more difficult ones. So you're already ahead of me on the old learning curve. Two airplanes I'm dying to build (multiple times each) in 1/32 scale is a P-51B, and a F6F-3 & 5. Unfortunately, neither exists that this time. As long as you're willing to live with the odd shaped fuselage behind the cockpit, then go for it. I'll be following your build from day 1. Joel

Peter, Your attention to detail is really paying off. those moved panel lines now match the actual aircraft perfectly. The more you look, the more you'll find with those Special Hobby kits. I know. I built one and have one in the stash. Still trying to work up the nerve to put it into my build schedule. I bought a few roles of the Tamiya curve tape, so I'm going to try your suggestion for using it as a guide for re-scribing. Masking tape is to thin, and even doubled up, still isn't still enough, but the Tamiya tape feels like it's perfect for that job. Joel

Kagemusha, Thanks so much for your most kind words. Every reply from LSP members means a great deal to me. Joel

Craig, As you've discovered, more has changed then stayed the same over that 40 years. When I returned to the hobby after 35 years, my learning curve was really steep. Come to think of it, I'm still on that curve. Very nice effort on the Me 109E-4. Joel

Marcel, That's one of, if not the best modeled exhaust can I've ever seen. Just sensational. Joel

Ray, thanks so much. Your comments are greatly appreciated. Joel

Maxim, Thanks so much for stopping by. I'm glad that you appreciate the used like I worked to achieve. Less is much harder then more when it comes to realistic weathering as I've been finding out the hard way. Joel