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  1. Like
    Fvdm got a reaction from Dennis7423 in HK Models Avro Lancaster Mk.I WIP: Planning 10/16/19   
    i will follow.
  2. Like
    Fvdm reacted to Dennis7423 in HK Models Avro Lancaster Mk.I WIP: Planning 10/16/19   
    Since I have completed my HK 1/32 B-17G, it's time to get cracking on another project. My brother and I were contracted two years ago to build some large scale kits for a flight museum that will open in Salt Lake City, Utah in a few years. I figure, why not get started on another kit!
    The plan for the museum display is to show, in large-scale, the bombing campaign in Europe using heavy bombers, their escorts, and their opposition. We have completed a B-17E so far, with a B-17F, B-17G, B-24D, B-24J, and Lancaster planned for the heavies. The hope is to make them more or less as accurate as possible, to help share the story of the bombing campaign against Germany. The museum has given us pretty free reign as far as what specific aircraft we model, as long as it was operational in the European campaign.
    I chose to get started with the HK Models 1/32 Lancaster. After having so much fun building their B-17G, I wanted to get cracking on another one of their excellent kits.
    So, in steps Lancaster Mk.I EE139, "Phantom of the Ruhr". Originally assigned to 100 Squadron on May 31st, 1943, she went on to fly 121 missions, including 15 trips to Berlin. I plan to model her during her early years, where she wore fuselage codes HW-R. She was later assigned to 550 Squadron, and bore fuselage codes BQ-B.
    a3425306814_10 by Dennis SAuter, on Flickr
    While I don't have any in-progress shots yet, I have started on a few small modifications to the kit (chopped up the cockpit floor). Here's what I can glean from photos so far, and I would love any input anyone can provide for this particular airframe:
    She was an early Mk.I, without side blisters to her canopy. Additionally, from photographs, it appears that she has aluminum interiors to her front turret, aluminum landing gear legs, and aluminum hubs to her wheels. All signs point to her being a very early Mk.I.
    PhantomofTheRuhrBefore100thOperation by Dennis SAuter, on Flickr
    img012 by Dennis SAuter, on Flickr
    24336d1142014385-lanc-phantomoftheruhr_144 by Dennis SAuter, on Flickr
    08741b6a17bc6f1e690930dc43d2f8c5 by Dennis SAuter, on Flickr
    Here's a few questions I have for the boffins:
    1. What type of bomb sight would she have? I have a feeling she has an early SABS (Stabilized Automatic Bomb Sight) because she is such an early bird, but I am not sure, and its not entirely clear in the photos.
    2. Would she have her fuselage windows painted over on the sides? (EDIT: It looks like in the last photo I posted, that she does indeed her her windows. I hadn't noticed that before).
    Hoping you all follow along on what will surely be a long journey once again. Thanks for tuning in!
    - Dennis S.
      Thornton, CO USA
  3. Like
    Fvdm got a reaction from Delayar in Sopwith Camel Le Rhone C1555 "Suds" (WNW, 1/32)   
    Really nice!!
  4. Like
    Fvdm got a reaction from Out2gtcha in F-104D Starfighter - 57-1315 - AFFTC Edwards AFB, 1960   
    Great job so far! It is turning out real nice with the lights. 
  5. Like
    Fvdm reacted to Out2gtcha in F-104D Starfighter - 57-1315 - AFFTC Edwards AFB, 1960   
    Thanks Troy!
    Well we officially have a GBPB! (Great Big Pointy B@$*!d)  This is going to be one TALL model  display when done

    The wings are at this time, just push fit into the fuselage, but the fuselage is 85% complete, and the fit was surprisingly good. Its a loooooooooong model though! The fit of the cockpit was good all around, and the nose cone has really started making it look like a zipper now. I have blended the sections of the cockpit that had to wait until the fuselage was assembled, but now I still need to go back and add the photo etch details to the inside areas of the cockpit, then finish up painting those areas the cockpit color. After those are dry, I will mask them off and repaint the ODG on the instrument hoods:


    Even the area at the nose where 4 panels come together fit exceptionally well, and needed only mild sanding to bring the nose cone into alignment and smoothness with the other 3 panels:

    The only fit issue I experienced was on the rear spine panel on the port side. This was likely due to my own error in assembly, but has been dealt with using PPP and Mr Surfacer Black 1500:

    Ok guys, this was shot with my crappy cell camera, and of course with the lights off and with YouTube dumbing down the quality, its kind of a crap video, but you can get an idea of what the lights look like with the fuselage closed up. The top and bottom asynchronous flashing beacons will get a small piece of fiber optic cable cut to a size to sit in the small cut tube that the MLED sits in, so it will shoot light directly up into each beacon light that will get glued on top of the hole. These both will eventually get painted red.
    The only down side here is the exhaust really only shows up bright like this with the lights off. In most situations, I will likely be displaying the 104 in a lit contest or show type lighting. However, you can still see the exhaust light flickering and the color by changing the angle you look at it, and if you look more up inside the exhaust. The effect is just a bit more subtle with the lights on. The other lights, including the cockpit lights you can still readily see with the lights on.
    I'm going for a very clean (display/vignette wise) look, so I'm hoping the clear rod will clean up nicely, and I can cut it off at a desired angle later on the bottom of the base. Ill likely add some chrome paint or foil there on the bottom of the display/end of the clear tube to help bounce the light back through the clear rod.  I will determine the length of the rod later when I know how much room I have to work with in my display cabinet. (I'm definitely going to have to raise my second to bottom shelf to accommodate the 104)
  6. Like
    Fvdm reacted to Vynce804 in HK Models 1/32 B25   
    Ok so I’ve had this in my stash for ages and only now do I feel confident to build it.  I’m really excited about the prospect and can’t wait to get started.  Over the years I’ve had it I’ve bought several aftermarket items, resin wheels, decals, paint masks and the ‘big ed’ pe set.  I bought this last item a while ago and even though I’m not a massive pe fan I’m going to give it a go... at least some of it anyway.  Not 100% sure which particular aircraft I will build, it will be an OD machine with a NMF underside that is for sure.

  7. Like
    Fvdm reacted to curiouslysophie in Tamiya 1/32 P-51D Mustang   
    I have recently finished my Ar 234 so now I fancied doing some Allied aircraft for a bit of a change. To start them off I thought I’d work on my first Tamiya kit, and it is a lovely kit! After the frustration of working on the Ar 234 and Fly’s lackadaisical sense of proper fit or instructions Tamiya’s kit is a dream.
     As always I’m not modelling a specific machine and I’m doing a fictional paint scheme. I am adding a lot of aftermarket to this one as well, including:
    Eduard’s Bid Ed set
    HGW belts and wooden floor
    CMK wheels (still not sure about these)
    Aires M2 .50 Cals
    Eduard ammo belts
    HGW wet transfers for markings and stencils
    Yahu control panel
    Barracuda seat, cockpit upgrade set, cockpit side walls, and placard decals.
    Ive never done a NMF before, so this should be a learning experience. Has anybody done one using MRP paints before? If so, any tips?
    I have been using a combination of Brett Green’s How To Build book and following Chuck540z3’s “kicked up a notch” build to help, along with a ton of internet reference photos.
    Without further delay here are the first pics, shots of the completed Packard Merlin;


    i added the various wiring and piping needed along the sides as well as the Eduard crank arms and scratch building ignition rails and wires. Sorry for the photo quality!
    Hope you enjoy the thread and I’ll post some more soon
  8. Like
    Fvdm reacted to sandbagger in Aviatik 'Berg' D.I   
    Hi all,
    The engine is now completed.
    I've added the ignition leads and spark plugs, timing mechanism, oil filler caps, water pump and coolant pipe, vale levers and springs and carburettor lever.
    I've also made the exhaust pipes from 1.8 mm diameter brass tube mounted onto 1.4 mm tube - the kit items had 'solid' bores.
    Test fitted into its mounting frames.




  9. Like
    Fvdm reacted to Antonio Argudo in Bf 109G-14 ERLA "Double Chevron" II./JG 3 "Udet"   
    Hi everyone, so after a couple of weeks left aside did some progress, she is  airborne now! cheers 

  10. Like
    Fvdm reacted to tchwrma in 20th Anniversary Monthly Raffles!   
    After a long time from April, and with a first package lost, then resended by Radu, I finally have received my Raffle prize.

    Thanks to Radu, to Kevin and to LSP!
  11. Like
    Fvdm reacted to Brett M in Tamiya 1/32 F4U-1 Birdcage Corsair   
    Wow, thanks everyone. Glad to see you're liking the progress!
    If you see something I've done wrong, please don't be shy.....tell me so I can fix it!  
    Minor update, O2 tank painted, decaled and installed. Not too thrilled about the bands that hold it to the bulkhead, so I may do more work on them...... Also, added the red "Caution...." decal below the head rest (I should get that done!).

    Thanks again for looking. 
  12. Like
    Fvdm reacted to Out2gtcha in F-104D Starfighter - 57-1315 - AFFTC Edwards AFB, 1960   
    Progress!!!!!   And lots of it.
    Here we are at the point of being about ready to button up the fuselage. Normally that is a major step, but in the case of this F-104D, its a HUGE step because once its glued up, there will be NO coming back to fix anything if I have an issue with an MLED, or its attachment point. So here we go..............
    I decided that the cold white light LED being used for the exhaust didn't look right, as well as looking like all the other lights in the set. I took a mix of Tamiya clear yellow with a bit of clear red and clear orange added til I was happy. I was in a debate with myself about weather to paint the LED bulb itself, or to paint the inside of the clear rod. After the previous near disaster with the clear tube cracking out like ice with a chemical reaction between it and several thinners I decided Id take a chance and paint the bulb itself:

    After some quick testing on how the clear rod fit around the bulb up inside the exhaust tube I decided it was time to spray some chrome enamel up inside the exhaust tube to reflect as much light as I could get down the clear tube. After that hardened off, I glued in the Brassin exhaust on the tube with some JB Weld as its going to bore the weight of most of the model. 
    A quick test of how the LED looks installed in the newly glued and painted exhaust tube confirmed things...........I was a happy boy!

    So now that both the exhaust tube and rod were complete (save cutting the rod off at the base to make the final height of the model) I decided to see if any of the light and reflection work I just went to did any good or not.
    So took a small video.    WE HAVE SUCCESS!!!! 
    I have seriously considered implementing the suggestions of painting up the clear rod to possibly reflect after burner rings or what not, but with the previous near disasters fresh in my mind, I think Im going to call that idea off, as I dont even want to chance cracking or even remotely blemishing the surface of the rod since it really needs to stay crystal clear to maintain the effect I want. If I messed something up, Im not sure I could stomach buying a new one and drilling/cutting it all again. 
    Now for the pièce de ré·sis·tance!     The jam packed fuselage is ready to close up. You'll notice our observer/photographer is absent here, as I accidentally broke his seat off while gluing up the starboard rear of the cockpit. No damage done to him, but Im waiting till I close up the fuselage to put him back in, since his arm is near straight out, and no one wants a broken arm for our guy:

    The exhaust is all glued in on the starboard side, and exhaust LED wired up with lead wires under the batter compartment:


    Here's a look at where the magnetic door will go over the main mother board. Its cram CRAM packed in there! I honestly don't think I could have stuck one more set of mini wires through the connection holes I made in the bulkheads. Fortunately there are only 4 ground slots left, and 4 wires to hook up from the port side, then its completely full:

    Im about to go the final fit test/light bleed test/final run though before I glue up the halves of the fuse.
    Cheers and thanks for looking in on me! 
  13. Like
    Fvdm got a reaction from Eenyweeny in Trumpeter Swordfish 1:32   
    Finally this model is ready. Here the pics without any comment.









  14. Like
    Fvdm reacted to Out2gtcha in F-104D Starfighter - 57-1315 - AFFTC Edwards AFB, 1960   
    Ill give you guys a bit of an idea how I handled the MLEDs in placing them. MSM recommends gluing the MLEDs in with the supplied UV activated gel by just gluing the wire near the clear light on the inside. 
    I though that presented a couple problems...............
    - One, it would make the MLEDs "free floating" over the clear window, as you could only glue the wire itself since you would not want to glue the MLED itself to the clear lens of the light
    - Two, it does lead to much MUCH more light bleeding, and would require much sealing of the fuselage to seal in any light bleed.
    My solution to this issue solved both problems. What I did was to cut a very small (2-4mm) section of brass tubing, taking a jewelers file, and cutting a notch in one side. Next I took some styrene card stock and glued the MLED down to it with some ultra thin CA, so capillary action wicks under it. Next I took and applied some UV activated gel around the MLED but not on it. 
    Prior to applying the activating UV light, I set the previously cut section of brass tubing over the MLED centering it in the middle, and positioning it so the notch I cut would allow the wire to exit and keep the tube flat and level around the MLED. Holding the tube section where I wanted it, I cured the gel with the UV light securing the MELD and the brass tubing. I then applied some more UV gel around the outside to make sure everything was secured as it should be. After all that was done and dried, I took some enamel chrome paint and applied some to the exterior and then very gently to the inside of the tube around the MLED but not on it. 
    This is the end result:


    Its not perfect by ANY means, but nothing I do is. It also keeps the MLED from moving around after  being glued in, and keeps the face of the light towards the clear lens part, so it shines in the correct direction. The tubing also keeps the light from the MLED contained to the clear parts, and does not really allow any light to escape. 
    After installing the tube with the MLED in it, again using the UV cure gel, I took and coated the whole thing with Mr Surfacer black primer to completely eliminate any light bleed.
    Its not pretty, but nothing on the inside of this model is............but it is highly effective and will never be seen from the outside fortunately:


    Well, the previous steps were the aforementioned "Two steps forward". Now I present the "One step back"......................
    I finally got around to getting the clear rod situated to receive the much larger exhaust LED the MSM kit comes with. This was done by drilling out the end with consecutively larger sized drill bits to a depth a bit deeper than the actual exhaust LED would extend into the clear rod. 
    Once that was done (VERY slowly to avoid any melting) I then took several steps of sand paper and polishing cloths to the inside of the hole for the exhaust LED polishing it as best I could so the light would shoot down the clear rod well.
    I was fairly happy with how it came out!  
    THEN I made the fateful decision to clean it after all my polishing. I used 91% alcohol to clean it.  Big, BIG mistake!!! 
    I applied the alcohol with a Q-tip/cotton swab, and all looked good...............for about 5 seconds..............then this happened:

    The alcohol attacked the drilled and polished inside of the rod and cracked and splintered it instantly like glass. You can see it all the way through the side walls of the drilled hole too:

    It also cracked out the bottom of the hole as well:

    BOOOOOOOOO!!   Well as usual, back to the drawing board!  I will cut off that cracked section of the rod, and re-drill and polish the hole, but this time, Ill use soap and water to clean it off!
    I hope to have the fuselage closed up with all the electronics inside this week. Even with the fuselage glued up together, because I made the hatches for the board and battery access removable with magnets, I will still have substantial access to the under side of the cockpit, as well as the battery compartment.
  15. Like
    Fvdm reacted to Out2gtcha in F-104D Starfighter - 57-1315 - AFFTC Edwards AFB, 1960   
    I took the opportunity, with the boys in their final positions, to tape on the on both IPs (which are currently both getting a canvas covering of tissue paper soaked in gators grip and water) and get the cockpits taped temporarily into the fuselage to see what the lights look like at night.
    The IPs are still a bit brighter than I would like, but the pics and my camera didn't deal with the glare very well, and this makes things look brighter and with more glare than IRL.
    You'll have to excuse the crappy cell phone pics, but in real life you can see the instruments well, and things are a lot less bright:






    I actually got the individual landing/marker/wing light covers Futured last night, so tonight I should be ready to install them and get the first of the fuselage MLEDs installed.
  16. Like
    Fvdm reacted to kensar in 1/32 WNW Sopwith Pup   
    Pete - I made the pulleys on my lathe.
    Some general progress...

    Moving to the top wing next.  Thanks for following along and commenting, everyone.
  17. Like
    Fvdm reacted to kensar in 1/32 WNW Sopwith Pup   
    I'm replacing the molded-in detail of the aileron pulleys.


    Getting on with the general painting and decaling.

  18. Like
    Fvdm reacted to shark64 in MH 60 Academy SeaHawk. 1/35 scale.   
    First color main color.


  19. Like
    Fvdm reacted to Vynce804 in 1/24 Airfix Hellcat   
    Hi All,
    This will be my last WIP post for this build as bar a few last minor things it’s almost done.  I’ll post some pictures of the completed model on ‘ready for inspection ‘ hopefully over the weekend.  Thanks for following along and all the kind and encouraging comments.  Cheers. Matt

  20. Like
    Fvdm reacted to airscale in 1/18 P51C Mustang "Lopes Hope the 3rd"   
    thank you folks - you are too kind
    carrying on with the wing fillets - the borders are laid out with tape to rub soft metal into to get the shapes in 3D after translating the plan profiles..

    ..taped down & burnishing..

    ..the forwardmost fillet is one piece and very difficult - there was nothing for it but to have a go at bashing some ali into shape - itv soon kinked and creased and took a lot of work to get even half right...

    ..you can see here how the material just wouldn't do what was needed and split in one place - no matter I thought I could let in a piece here - this had any inner creases filed down to give it the best chance of truly flattening out when fixed..

    ..still working it..

    ..and finished & with fixings.. it's not perfect, but good enough for me..

    ..same on the other side..

    ..the PE arrived for the front vents so I could do this panel too - another tricky one..
    ..first step was to add the vent structure and then make the front seam of the panel meet the nose intake casting... the rest of the panel lines could be dealt with with overlaps being removed..

    ..with both panels & the vents added..,. the fasteners are added, but not yet all the riveting..



    ..and the nose is pretty much coming together..




    ..still lots to do despite it looking quite complete...

  21. Like
    Fvdm got a reaction from Paramedic in Trumpeter Swordfish 1:32   
    Finally this model is ready. Here the pics without any comment.









  22. Like
    Fvdm got a reaction from Paramedic in OS2U Kingfisher 1:32 Finished!   
    Here are the pics of the finished Kingfisher. A really enjoyable build.









  23. Like
    Fvdm got a reaction from R Palimaka in Trumpeter Swordfish 1:32   
    Finally this model is ready. Here the pics without any comment.









  24. Thanks
    Fvdm got a reaction from Out2gtcha in F-104D Starfighter - 57-1315 - AFFTC Edwards AFB, 1960   
    Great work. I'm glad all is working out well with the lights. 
  25. Like
    Fvdm reacted to Out2gtcha in F-104D Starfighter - 57-1315 - AFFTC Edwards AFB, 1960   
    Thanks all! Thanks for the comments, encouragement and ideas too.
    I know I've been slacking here as of late, but work has been killer, and with all the question marks surrounding how to proceed with the most difficult part of the build (how to best light up the IPs and cockpit with as little room as I have) its been dragging the significant MoJo I had for this build down....................BUT that mojo is back!
    I finally conceded that I would have to make a few small sacrifices in the overall look of the IPs lit up to make everything work.  Heres what I ended up doing:
    - Used 3 individual MLEDs for each cockpit; one that controls the lower part of the IP and lights up the radar scope and the 5 or 6 small instruments on the right side of the lower part, one that lights up all 15 or so of the upper instruments, and the 3rd MLED is used for lighting up the two side consoles.
    - I  built a tiny light box for the upper IP with the 15 instruments or so in it
    - The lower part of each IP I used some fiber optic cable into some brass tubing, sealed with UV gel glue, then covered in MS black primer
    - The side console spot lights are smaller fiber optic runs powered by a single MLED glued outside of the cockpit.
    My first initial runs were a success, although I didnt have an clear instrument sheets in this test yet, and with it being dark, the glare took some sharpness away from the photo, but a success none the less!

    My fear was that if I used any of the MLEDs directly, the light would be way WAY too bright for cockpit lights, so my hope was that by using some fiber runs, I could tone the overall brightness down, and I think it worked.
    I started off by doing the observers pit first, since it had the most room constraints. I had to move the observers lower IP back a bit to make room for the eventual camera, but I think it will still look ok.
    You can see the fiber optic cables running to the lower part covered in MS black primer to cut out any light bleed:



    And powered up with the fiber optics.......................just as Id hoped, the fiber toned down the brightness to a much more realistic level for a military aircraft cockpit:

    Not perfect by any means, but still good, and will look good once all the junk goes in the pit, it may even be hard to see it all.
    I then built up the observers upper IP light box, putting a bit of clear fiber optics behind each instrument, and polishing the ends facing the MLED on the inside of the box. The box was then lined with polished foil to reflect the light back into the fiber tubes, and sealed up with UV gel glue and painted with MS black primer to again seal any light bleeding.
    Once again, far far from perfect, but I think it still looks pretty cool (even better in person than in pics IMHO):


    It was onto the side console flexible spot lights. I made these from some fiber optic cable with a tiny piece of aluminum tubing on the end, and painted again with MS black primer:

    I used some brass tubing and glued it on the bottom of the pit, to light both side consoles:




    Temporarily installed in the rear pit with our observer/camera man to see how things looked......just as Id hoped, the brightness was indeed toned down also to a much more realistic look. I think this will also show up well once all the junk is together in the pit too................might be easier to see the lights in those conditions. Either way, it was what I was going for in a more subtle subdued light for the consoles:



    I also got a good start on doing the front cockpit setup too. A start on what the lower IP looks like before covering in black primer. The UV activated gel worked a real treat, and held everything together just as I wanted and filled gaps nicely without distorting the light coming into the instruments. Although with the front, I found it was better to coat the fiber optic cable with a chrome paint first, then black primer to seal the light in:


    This is pretty much what the IPs look like before the addition of the AirScale Mylar clear instrument sheet, and the Eduard PE:

    So my experimentation has finally paid off, and while not perfect by any means, its about what I was hoping for, as sometimes concessions have to be made to make things work in the ultimately tight quarters presented in the F-104Ds crapped cockpits.
    Im on a roll here with the pit, and I usually like to keep the roll going when Im on one, so Im hoping tonight I can finish up the lower and upper parts of the pilots IP, then I can "see the light at the end of the tunnel" so-to-speak on finishing up the pit. Once I finish that I can move onto getting the rest of the airframe lit up, which I dont believe will be nearly as hard as trying to figure out the IPs in the cockpits.
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