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Everything posted by EmperorKai

  1. Hey there Maru- It's still sitting next to the work bench along with the Skyray. Have been quite busy with work and life in general, so haven't had much of a chance to build for quite awhile. One of the projects I've been picking at is a general re-organization of the man-cave, but once that is squared away, there should be plenty of motivation to get back to some bench time. Thanks for checking in on this Kai
  2. GLAAR! First- Awesome name! Second- Awesome post! I appreciate the input and it has given me a bit to consider in regards to the single piece windscreen. It's been a while since I've had a chance to sit down at the bench much less get back to this one, so this is still sitting off to the side patiently waiting... Hope things slow down enough to get back to some modeling soon Thanks again and for looking in on my build! Kai
  3. A few others in 1/32: Doyusha K5Y2 Willow (Type 93 Akatombo) Revell PA-18-150 Piper Super Cub Floatplane HPH Supermarine Walrus Kai
  4. In the middle of a build of a Fisher kit myself (F4D) and have the other kits as well. The instructions do require extra attention, and there are some tricky spots. In regards to the instrument panel, I understand the skepticism, however they actually turn out pretty decent with the photocopied dials. Kai
  5. Thanks guys! Thanks for keeping me going. As usual, I've been plugging away at it a little at a time and have some updated pics. Have more to show actually, but I'll start with these for now. To backtrack just a bit, the intakes are tricky to mask along the interior edge, and are much easier if done BEFORE gluing them into place. Paul's instructions point this out and it is good advice. A pic before the forward fuselage is joined to give an idea of the join lines. A last look at the compressor face. Once the intakes are in place, only a small part of this will be visible. Here, the intakes are dry-fitted in place and not quite lined up yet. It is also possible to see here where the underside of the upper clam shell was ground down with a Dremel to make the joining step go trouble free. The intakes and fuselage finally in place with CA. The intakes went in first, and were aligned with the fuselage and wing. Then they were cleaned up and the seam lines filled. Then the fuselage went in last- everything went according to plan without any issues. The join line on the spine had a considerable gap, which was filled with plastic and CA. The joins between the forward fuselage, clamsell and inakes all come together here. All the previous prep work has paid off nicely and very little is left to do here. Stepping back a bit to see how it all comes together. Once the seams were all cleaned up, lost panel lines were re-scribed and missing panel lines were added. There is also a dimple that was added on the underside, seen here on the right side of the pic. Lots of additional panel lines were added on the underside, mainly along the center sections. The aft fuselage section features prominent rivets, especially around the unpainted section, which were added. Will have more shortly- thanks for looking! Kai
  6. Hi WROBO- I ended up mounting the coaming UNDER the kit dash area instead of even with (or on top). The instructions are confusing and at first I did it the same way you have it. After discovering it would be too tall, I had to fill in the areas I had cut with sheet plastic and then mounted the Verlinden piece as seen here in this pic. Note that my build (link to it is in my signature) is a 2 seat A-10B with the F-15 HUD. I would estimate the height of the HUD assemblies are the same either way though. Hope this helps! Kai
  7. Waroff- I just had a chance to catch up on this thread. You have done a beautiful job! If it is not too late, I would love to have the opportunity to have and build this kit- can you please add me to your list? Kai
  8. Hey WROBO- Following along with your build- looks great! Just a friendly heads up- You might want to check the fit of your dash though with the windscreen in place. When you do your check, be sure to accommodate for the HUD glass as it will stick up higher. I used the same dash on mine and found that it sits pretty high and can interfere with the windscreen, especially if you use the Squadron replacement. Looking forward to more! Kai
  9. Tough kit, but you've done a beautiful job! Lover the Flipper scheme Kai
  10. hmm. "Paleface"? Did find the following: 440621 SMITH, THOMAS O P-40N 43-22863 SHWANGLIU, CHINA http://www.accident-report.com/world/asia/china.html 440621 P-40N 43-22863 60FS 33FG 14 LAC 3 Smith, Thomas O CHI Shwangliu landing accident 3 http://www.aviationarchaeology.com/src/AARmonthly/Jun1944O.htm 21 Jun 44 43-22863 Curtiss P-40N-20-CU Warhawk Smith, Thomas O 60FS 33FG 14AF Damaged landing, Shwangliu, China http://raf-112-squadron.org/33rdfghonor_roll.html Also found this while searching- in regards to "Lulu Belle", thought it was interesting. Looks like a blue border to me, but hard to tell
  11. Outstanding guys- I didn't know about the asynchronous gun pack installation. And the added info regarding the 75mm gun makes sense. Perhaps the silver handle serves in part to satisfy demilitarization requirements? Regardless, it doesn't look like it originally belongs there. Kai
  12. Nice video Maru! Okay- here's a few stills from the crappy iPhone video. I think there's a couple of shots of the interior in here that might be useful. Sitting in the right jump seat and looking back, the spindle for the turret and the lower portion of the forward bomb bay bulkhead. Looking down, below the turret spindle, is the hatch. The gunner's feet rest on top the hatch, and the gunner's seat folds against the side. Looking up into the turret. The sight is in the middle. The turret position is best for smaller folk as the framing does not leave much room as it is meant really for just the head and shoulders. The arms go under the frame. Not to put too fine a point on it, the turret is much smaller that one would think. This is the view if the iPhone is placed on top the head. Normally the view is lower, and the barrels themselves are obscured. The M2 50 cal machine guns are basically ear muffs. Seriously. I spent quite a bit of time in the turret. I tried to envision what it must have been like to be scanning the skies for bogeys with such limited view, much of which is distorted by the perspex. To see left or right, the back of the head has to be nearly pressed against the back of the turret to see around the guns. Cold air cold blows through cracks and joints, and even then the sulfur smell of spent gun powder must have been overwhelming. Downtown Denver. Forward view from the jump seat. I don't think the hula girl was standard issue, but check your references. That's the last of it. Hope this helps. It was fun going through these pics again. Kai
  13. Oh, I forgot to mention. Not sure if you noticed, but on the currently flying Barbie III, it has the gun packs on the right side only, but none on the left. I've never seen where it was flown in this arrangement during the war. Glad you like- this is one of my other hobbies- flying on restored aircraft. Kai
  14. I used a DSLR for photos, and my iPhone for video. I wasn't getting along with the camera equipment that day, and ultimately wanted to really soak in the experience, so unfortunately I didn't get much in the way of photos from the jump seat. From the gunner's seat, looking forward and above the cannon, the flight deck is eye level. Yes, that is someone's foot on the left. Standing up and looking up from the gunner's seat. The jump seats were added for rides, but makes for cramped quarters for everyone involved. If one were to turn to the left in this photo, the turret stem and mount would take up most of the space. I have a few more of the interior in general After landing, I did a walk around and then went back in to the back half of the plane. Here, just aft of the bomb bay, looking forward towards the cockpit. This space was packed with equipment during wartime. Same spot looking aft towards the rear gunners position. I think it was shortly after this pic that they had to drag me off the plane kicking and screaming. Kai
  15. Nothing but respect to DACO for considering a project like this- never been done before and sounds like it will be a pretty comprehensive kit as it is envisioned right now. But "This kit will contain more than 450 parts..." and "the tooling price is much, much higher than anticipated" go hand-in-hand. Complete engines and what looks like fairly extensive interior detailing drive the cost up, and unnecessarily so when many (probably most) builders won't use them. I agree with the points made already- $35 to $55 is probably the sweet spot for a kit of this aircraft. It might fetch more in Europe, but in the same way an F-11 Tiger or F-101 Voodoo doesn't command much demand abroad, I don't think a Magister will have as much appeal in the US market. There are other subjects that might, such as a Buccaneer, Jaguar, Rafale, Etendard, etc that would have wider appeal... Bottom line- I'd like to see DACO be successful- to do this kit, make money and look to doing others. But IMHO, I don't see anything north of $75 for this particular subject matter selling too well. Kai
  16. From my last flight on Barbie III. For takeoff, I sat down the in the gunners seat. Dark, cramped and LOUD (there's loud, very loud and then R-2600 loud). Only thing between the gunner and those 2 radials is aluminum skin. I can only imagine what it must have been like with four 50 cal gun packs blasting away just on the exterior of that fuselage. I spent most of the flight up in the turret, and for landing, I was in the jump seat behind the pilot. I believe the breach block has been removed, so this is not a complete setup. Kai
  17. Thanks guys! I remember going through quite a bit of effort trying to figure out something for the wheels, and ultimately I just got lucky. Harold's hit a home run here- easy, reliable source for an excellent set. Kai
  18. Nice! I like the recipe for your wash too- Looks awesome Kai
  19. Beautiful job! I got a chuckle out of this- I have pretty much the same stuff ready to go for this project, except for the Ruporator conversion, which I didn't know about, but will save some time (nice tip- thanks!). I might also mention that Profimodeler also has wheels, rotor hub and other detail bits for the Mi-17/24. Well done Dukie! Kai
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