BiggTim

Context?  On this site?  Only if it involves RLM Whatever or the rivet pattern on a Fleeber-Grunch Flying Squirrel.

Could new cuss words be an original thread? The context for each word's invention would be the true interest.

It MIGHT be possible to 3DP the internal framing for a specific kit, Tamiya pulled it off doing an IM internal frame for the 32nd scale Mossie, seems to work fine [for me at least]. Like Mark P I too know very little about 3DP stuff. It sure would beat trying to put decals on the inside of the clear parts, I've invented new cuss words  during the process that nobody has ever heard before or since!

The more "squarish" Stuka canopy was a feature of earlier variants. The canopy became more tapered with the arrival of the Ju 87 D/G.
 
If one considers that virtually every Stuka kit made in plastic has an inaccurate canopy, a 3D correction set could prove quite popular. Given some of the stuff currently being offered, I would think that this isn't beyond the realm of possibility. However, I know nothing of the 3D process....
 
Detailed photos are possible, as both versions of the Stuka are in museums.
 
Just sayin...
 
Mark Proulx 

After cursory consideration of an airplane I know nothing about, I have a couple of observations:  First, the Stuka is not a crude, poorly configured airplane at all, but a war machine designed to do a fine job of doing its job.  It does not appear to be any more draggy than its peers unless it wants to be.  Secondly, there appear to have been more than one type of canopy put on the thing.  One is squarish with lots of glazing; the other is more streamlined with softer lines.  Apparently neither were popular subjects for photographers.  From what I can see on line, the rounder version of the canopy is a rat’s nest of internal structure consisting of steel tubing frameworks and rigid aluminum strips, and typical external framing where needed.  Accurately modeling all this stuff will be hard without company drawings or detailed photos.  I suppose the steel tube structures would come easily enough via Evergreen, but the internal aluminum strips might be a pain in the heinie.  Were it me, I’d use strips of adhesive paper tape often found in craft stores.  It sticks well, is close to the right thickness, comes in different colors, can be painted, leaves no footprint when removed or repositioned and is much friendlier to use than just about anything else.  But that’s just me.

Agreed, but why not fix, mask, paint? Except for the surface in contact with the canopy glazing, of course. My thought is for tests for the first 'layer' seeking flexibility with highest adhesion after painting.
 
It is a tricky problem, to be sure.

This is the interior colour. They are RLM66 on the Hendon airframe.

I thought of that but moved to the decals idea as this is not going to be easy to fold painted plastic strips... 

Uncanny, Thierry!
 
My plan differs from yours only in the detail of the internal framework. Rather than decal material, I'll try thin Evergreen sheet strips, built up to achieve required thickness, fixed with pva.
 
I have built a couple of large scale Stukas. A week ago I had never noticed Ju 87 interior framing. Now I could not tolerate a Ju 87 canopy done wrong. Argh!
 
I am wondering about the colour of the internal framing in contact with the canopy glazing. What do you think?

How I'm intending to do it: 
1. Drill holes in external frames to mimic the fasteners
2. Sand the external frames and polish the canopy
3. Add internal frames with painted decal strips
4. Dip the canopy in Future
5. Fill the external holes with thick black paint to simulate the fasteners

I do free hooter inspections......oh wait, it might mean something different where you are!

Good luck trying to replicate that feature, I’ve never been able to.   

Cool!! I like Hasepeter better, sounds funnier!!

Agreed, so suddenly kick-out canopy glazing panels made sense to me, John.

Time to find a new hobby.  Sorry bro….ill PM you my address so you can ship me your stash for proper disposal.  

I do free hooter inspections......oh wait, it might mean something different where you are!

Wingleader Films, The Wingless Stuka - A Battle of Britain Story (January 5th) includes still photographs of Ju 87 T6 + KL that was shot down and crash landed near Tangmere, south of England, on August 16th 1940. Internal canopy framing is evident. The canopy glazing material appears to be riveted to the frames within. All three canopy sections have some internal frames. I have never seen that before.
 
If external cockpit canopy framing was standard on Stukas, does anybody know why T6 + KL differed?

External canopy framing was NOT standard on Stukas even if this is not easy too see on many pictures. The internal framing was the standard.

Thierry correctly described the Stuka canopy. It is mostly braced internally, a feature no model manufacturer accurately depicts. 
 
Mark Proulx

Thank you gentlemen. I see a need to learn how to polish clear moulded canopy items.

I think Google might be your friend. Search for "Stuka Walkaround" (for example) and you should find images that clearly show the Stuka canopy framing. While some is internal, edges of the framing likely is not.
 
HTH
 
Mark Proulx

The Ju-87 was actually equipped with a roll cage.  So, if overturned, the crew could just kick away the perspex.  I've been trying to model the thing for months.  However, most materials are too flimsy to look factory.  If I could find someone who didn't want a kidney, I'd ask someone to 3d print the parts.

Thanks Gaz, now the Ju 87's canopy glazing makes sense for me. I had thought it was just for streamlining.

The Ju-87 is about as streamlined as a cinderblock.   I doubt putting the framing inside the canopy would have done very little to make that thing go faster. 

So thanks to Tolga and William first of all for piquing my interest in Hellcats after my wife stumbled on one at a a local market, where you can normally buy food, clothes, and whatnot, except model kits. Well, this seller was an exception apparently and for a very modest price (my wife is a great negotiator!) she took it home. 
Although the kit is a limited edition with 3 Minsi's, it's the same plastic that's probably older than I am. I was intrigued about kitbashing it with a Trumpeter Garfield Hellcat, and so happend to stumble on one at a second hand site here. 
edit: Williams excellent build is here:
And for future reference, as at this moment it's on the same page, but it may not always remain so, here's Tolga's: 
If there's any other cool Hellcat related thread here, I can always add them of course. 
 
So, with a gazillion half-baked projects on the shelf, here I am starting another that will probably end up being half baked as well after I get the main kitbash done, but we'll see about that later. If it helps a bit for other to try it as well... why not? 
 
So with both Hellcatkits (speak that aloud a few times!) in hand, i removed the Hasegawa fuselage & Trumpeter lower/upper wing parts from their sprues and started thinking about the easiest way. The Trumpeter kit has wings that mate to the fuselage directly, following it's (bloated) shape, while the Hasegawa as moulded fillets to which the upper wings are glued. 
The bloated Trumpeter is actually about the size of the fillets wider, so I figured why not cut the Trumpeter upper wing parts straight & be done with it? 
That seemed, at first, like a workable idea; taped the shape up & if I were to cut along the tape it might work, as evidenced by sliding the part underneath the fillet. 


 
Of course things are never that easy, and I was glad (or not!) I tried to fit the lower part as well, before hacking up parts. Remember measure twice, cut once? 
I discovered 2 insteresting things: the Trumpeter lower wing part, despite the bloated fuselage, is an almost dead-on fit both in curves & length. However, somewhat to my dismay, the at the rear, the Trumpeter wing sits much lower than on the Hasegawa as seen here:

 
Figured there were roughly 2 options (actually 3, leave both models alone & abandon the attempt...) :
1. cut the Hasegawa fillets off (as Willam did on his build as far as I could see), and build up the gap with Evergreen, adapt the upper wing to the Hasegawa fuselage
2. cut the lower wing about 75% off the Trumpeter part, and bend upward to match the Hasegawa fillet. 
 
i'm not sure which kit is correct, but looking at the curves & bends of option 2 I went with 1. Of course there'll be someone pointing out the wing will sit too low now... but when I started it my mindset was to make the best of 2 not-so-great kits and live with some shortcuts or inaccuracies. There, I said it
 
So, option 1 it was; I used a Tamiya scriber to carefully get rid of the fillets, some cutting and sawing, until they were off:

 


 
and, the moment of truth.... as expected, gaps, but I think I these can be closed with Evergreen, and as the Hellcat fuselage had some sort of ridge/fillet where the wings sits, I that may help too. 

This also needs some adressing with Evergreen: 

 
Of course I don't have the required thicknesses of Evergreen, so I'll need a visit to the local shop first before I can attempt to close those gaps up. 
I've got some other models in the works too, so I might even pause this one until one of those is finished before picking it up again, but hopefully it might help others out with some practical tips & guides. If anyone has some additional tips or info it's welcome as well, after all, I'm just meddling along  
 
Another hurdle is that the Trumpeter decals are very inaccurate, but my Hasegawa box has The Minsi, Minsi II and III -historically very significant aircraft, but with wings folded I want something with more markings on the wings, nose and tail -on the Hellcat the fuselage is pretty much invisible. (hence the ? in the title, not sure if I'll do an F6F-3 or F6F-5 yet).