Warbird

Original for sure but as a Bücker pilot I disagree with that modification...

Thank you!

Thank you all!

Thank you Matt! The fit of the intakes is pretty good, some surgery is required on the inside of the kit to make room for the ducts. You'll need to significantly thin the inside fuselage walls to position the exhausts correcly - nothing too difficult, though. Aires pit is a plus for the canopy mecanism and seat but I found the IP being worse than the kit one - I kept the latter as well as the starboard console, more accurate for a Swiss version than the Aires. Reskit resin Sidewinders are a bit of pain to build and you'll need to scratch build the motors - next time I'll choose the 3D printer versions.

Hi All, This is my Swiss Tiger from AFV. I have added Reskit intakes, exhausts and Sidewinders. Aires cockpit, Master guns and pitot tube. Mattterhorn Circle decals. Overall a nice kit! Cheers Tristan

Hi I would suggest Master barrels, seatbelts (I used RB productions but they are now oop), tires (I used modified Spifire smooth tires from Barracuda ) and decals (I used HGW wet transfers). Resin wheel wells could be interesting - I rather chose to modifiy the plastic parts. Tristan

Thank you Wayne Weathering will give some life to our models but we can quickly go overboard. My approach is to reproduce what I can actually see in my references. It seems trivial but it isn't. Tristan

Thank you all for your kind comments!

Thank you! - no WIP thread for this one - not enough time for that, unfortunately.

Thank you all! Thank you Nikola Those colors (especially the white) are "burned" due to the duration of the exposure time - but they are wheathered like the rest. Those areas would have required some photo editing but I didn't do that extra mile. So you'll have to trust me ;-)

Hi Gents, Here is my Tamiya Zero, a good kit except for the silly mechanisms to make the landing gears and doors movable - corrections are time consuming. You'll also need to work on the engine/engine mount for a perfect fit with the cowlings in place. I used the excellent tweak list available here. I used RB production seatbelts, master barrels, Barracuada tires (for Spitfire originally), all excellent. AK Real and Tamiya paints, painted markings and HGW wet transfers. Tristan

Back in 1994, I recorded an interview of SL Stevenson for a highschool history work (he was living in Switzerland). We made the interview at his place around a cup of tea (or course!). He spoke french with a very strong british accent - not many in the classroom could understand him. Nice memories! Tristan

Salut Romain, That's a splendid Cobra you've made (although I'm not a big fan of that "scaffolding" configuration)! Special mention for your wheathering. Congrats! Tristan

I built the Italeri and whereas panel lines on the flat surfaces are pretty good, those on the fuselage are inconsistent, softly defined and sometimes so wide that I decided to fill in a couple and rescribe. Initially I wanted to do a NMF but decided that the overall engraving nature was more appropriate for a camouflage. For a NMF I would probably scribe an Hasegawa (or build a 1/48 Kinetic). Tristan

The fact that all picures of that aircraft show the same side is, by itself, an argument in favor of the "one side" option. Some of these pictures would be better exposed (to the sun) if the other side was photographed. Drawings/nose art in general are more often one-sided than two-sided I'd say that likelihood of the one-side hypothesis is greater. Tristan

The strut itself lacks rigidity. I don't think it would break but it will definitely bend forward a bit, impacting the geometry (mine has the quite heavy master rockets set that doesn't help). My solution to the problem was to glue the top lip of the gear door to the underwing. By default there is a tiny gap of a fraction of a mm so a little adjustment is needed (I don't remember exactly what I did). That way nothing moves and the whole thing seemed rock solild to me. Tristan

Hi, No Mk6 here but others that could be modified - not sure which one would be the most appropriate... https://sparkit-models.com/fr/7-cockpit

Hi Pete, Awesome paint job on that office - what kind of lense did you put in the HUD? It makes very nice color effects. Tristan

Hats off! Really superb - especially the subtile OG tonal variations. Tristan

Superb!

Lovely Bück!

Thank you Juggernut. I'm builing an early superbug (Blue Angel #7) so that resin cockpit is ok with some modifications (intrument panels, mostly). Anyway it is 300% better than the kit cockpit.

Thank you but I forgot to mention that it's about the rear cockpit deck. I have edited my post.

Hi Guys, Working on the double seater Trumpy Super Bug. The rear cockpit deck (behind the rear seat, with canopy open) is devoid of any detail. I have the D&S v.9 but there is only one pic of the starbord side of the rear cockpit deck. I cannot find anything on the net, especially the port side. Any help welcomed. Thanks! PS : For those interested, the Avionix F/A-18D resin cockpit fits quite nicely (elbow grease needed, like for a bad fitting Aires cockpit, though).

Top notch work. Hats off! Tristan