dashotgun

yes I used tamiya tape it and very low tack frisket film the issue is the bare plastic where it was primed on the wings has been no problem. I did not wash the model before hand or spray with oil remover and i think revell must have used more die release oils then tamiya or hasegawa as I usually dont bother with the washing step. Kevin futter did a review based on spraying on evergreen sheet and it did not lift so I think that is a possible variable. Strangely enough the invasions stripes were fine white was model master enamel and black was model master lacquer. I masked and painted the national insignia on the wings( give up as I could not get the stars to register) the wings were primed and the paint did not lift there

try this https://www.amazon.com/TAMIYA-87176-Decal-Adhesive-Japan/dp/B012D2PWAU

rather then chuck it in frustration I am going to touch it up and do decals. The enamel white stripes never dried properly either and have to be redone

beautiful representation all around the base and figures are beautiful and the model is rendered perfectly. do you like the mrpo paint I am struggling with lifting on the aki lacques may be my fault for not laying a primer down.

I t is the lacquer and was layed down over tamiya primer and was allowed to dry for days. ( admittedly a thin and uneven coat the revall mustangs details are soft)It is not lifting uniformly only in certain areas. I like aki I am new to it suffering through the lack of model master enamel curses to the new owners. I flows beautifully was thinned slightly with mr thinner or just mr leveling thinner. It lifted under the lowest tack frisket film!!! also from orcal 810 which is pretty low tack correction the areas lifted did not have primer underlay

you are da man!

another vote for the rustoleum I have never used the alclad black base due to the bad press. here us another thought https://store.spruebrothers.com/product_p/gunsf288xxx.htm since it is mr surfacer it will go over the lacauer tamiya primer and lastly here is a refreasher all about alclad http://www.swannysmodels.com/Alclad.html

supposedly the cb09 is more precise then the silhouette blades they come in 30 45 and 60 degree blades

my auto blade dies due to my inexperience and they are very difficult to acquire right now so I bought a cb09 no regrets it is not an auto blade but works great and the blades are replaceable . I just posted some designs on Kevin futters website btw https://www.scalemodelpaintmasks.com/

yes to both it will be more bright and metallic over a black base. I have actually sprayed over no base but you have to do light coats and test to see if it will attack the plastic. I have also used a lacquer base as well if again you start with light coats. MM lacquer black is good. The main thing is it will show any imperfection in you prep and sanding the base coat needs to be polished to a shine before putting the alclad on. BTW the new aki xtreme metal is quite good as an alternative and is a bit more forgiving IMHO. I still use both

perfect for us non figure painters no face!

hey that is normal for some

so does the model have the stressed skin effect?

i have oil paints and turpentine amazon carries liquin magic. amenable to trying it on a test bed. So you are saying dried oil paint is compatible with enamel. Lacquer will cover anything I think

another thought is why did you use oil paint? I use mostly enamels and lacquers and i am not sure that oil paint with its slow drying time etc is going to be a friendly under enamel or lacquer. btw your bench is as crowded as mine

i wish iain mckenzie would weigh in he is amember here but posted on facebook and mentioned the term said he learned it here. I like the look Quang I agree that subtlety is warranted and sort of what your doing is also mottling but using color as well. Since as real object fade and wear the colors in the paint change as well with a colored subject like a ww2 era p51 with a color like olive green( or raf dark green) the properties of the paint and how it ages comes into play as well. I think yellow underlay although that may combine into green blue I am trying to achieve a yellowish under tone hmm

https://www.autoblog.com/2021/02/07/scale-model-cars-planes-tanks-pandemic-antidote/

Came across the term and was uncertain to its meaning

good to know one plus one minus monthebiff could have gotten a bad one. I saw someone on lsp britain used one beautiful

i wish they made a kit for the mig 29 a

thanks the eduards look so good though, I received the sturmbock from ups today the landing gear legs look nice but are a bit flexible. I am going to order the Sow legs just as $ as the eduards but I like supporting one of our own . I am not sure all of my models need legs but replacing the fw190d was a bit of a pain so will go ahead with these or sac

having had a bad experience with the stock gear on the hasegawa 190d requiring a transplant. I used the sac gear and they were okay but the white metal leaves a lot to be desired. The eduard gear is pricy at 20 bucks plus shipping 1/2 the cost of the model. Lately i have trying to avoid a lot of the ams however I do like to photograph the models and requires some handling . So are metal gears really needed it is not a heavy model and if so are the brass ones worth it?

it is a day or so ago

Funny thing is i am building the original release now and decided to do Frenesi. I sourced the cutting edge decals but am going to make my own masks any way the irony is funny Btw the reports on the difficulty of the build are overblown.