tomp.

I like the good new tools of the last ten years myself, unfortunately I don't like the prices. So I wait a few years to purchase any new large scale kits. This year I purchased a Revell He 111 for about 45 USD delivered (squadron), A Hasegawa 109F/B 36 USD delivered(Tower) and today a CyberHobby 109E 33 USD delivered (Squadron). I really personally don't care for all the microscopic parts in some ot the new kits, and especially if they are not visible when kit assembled. I'll just have to save up for over 100 USD kits I want ,no hurry I have more than enough in my stash. I would prefer more large scale kits in the Hasegawa style. By the way a USD in 1960 is 6.03 today and 1990 USD in 1.38.

I have both the cowls and vacuform canopies. Not really worth the money. Cowls not that much better than the kit and solid resin. Lots of pinholes. The canopies are some of the worst I've seen, very rough finish.

I got the Heritage canopy and nacelles last year. The canopy is not as clear as you would like, it has that slightly rough look to it. not as clear as a Squadron Vac. The nacelles have pinholes that will need to be filled and the exhaust openings seem to look a little small for the Quickboost exhaust.

I can recommend the Duplicolor rattle can primer,I use Tamiya and MM Acrylics also. The product was called Truck, Van & SUV primer but is seems they have replaced with what is labled Perfect Match Premium Automotive Paint Scratch Filler Primer. It too is sandable and gives a very smooth finish right out of the can and is a much lighter gray so flaws are more noticable. Only downside is the can is now 8 oz for 6 USD insted of 11 oz. Bought at Autozone.

Hi Tomek,I was wondering if you could tell me what type O'glue you use as I looked at their website and there seems to be various different products available. I'll be going to the nearest staples pretty soon to check on it. The old Fokker G 1 is an "Alfa" and I also have a Super Model Me 410 which appears to be printed on better paper. Both of these models are pretty simple which is why I chose to learn on something simple. From what I see of the newest models there has been a vast improvement recently. The laser formers certainly eleminate a tiresome task.

Hi Tomek, Your P 39 looks pretty good to me and your tips are a help as I am building my first paper card plane, a Fokker G 1 Reaper. Book has a publication date of 1984 so paper is a bit brittle. Took a few attempts to find out how much to wet the paper to form it over various tools, tapered artist's paint brush handle seem to work well. Took a look at the KW Cartoon website and their two kits are impressive, will probably get the JU 87B and I hope they will make a detail set for like the P 39. Already have a Special Hobby P 39D in my stash so I don't need another. Your grammer is much better than the factured Polish-English translation on Google I spent some hours on to get the general direction of the instructions on my kit.

Just this last Sat. I recieved my latest piece for my 1/32 Revell Mosquito from Grey Matters, the Warbirds FB VI nose that MDC used to sell. Cost was 9# including RM surface shipping mailed on 12/23/10. I also got the Heritage vac canopy and resin single stage cowlings last fall and the Quickboost exhaust. Now I can get started on mine. Last set of Paragon's FB conversion I saw on Ebay went for a bit over 70 USD.

Know how you feel, after spending/wasting too much time and effort with now throughly outdated and surpassed old old tools like SBD, Hurricane and now Beaufighter and Mosquito. I gave up and waited for deals on Trumpeter replacements and hope that Wingscale comes through on the other two. I didn't hesitate when SB came through and happy I did. Got the Midway SBD for 75 USD and Hurricane IIc for 70 USD,also got a Hurricane IId for 50 USD on Ebay.

Always a good idea to check SB super specials, I've gotten several 50% kits in the last year or so.

Seems they are going to plan on three releases New Claude variant, P 36 fixed landing gear and a Yak 3. Hope it's true.

I have to agree with you on the "snake". It does look to be between the two tones, maybe red is correct.

Concerning the 2nd photo, in the FSM Warbird Modeling 2003 there is a rather nice 1/48 Tamiya Galland E4. The spinner is pointy but the colors are 1/3 yellow then 2/3 white with plate RLM 70, builder gives no reference though. I downloaded picture and fiddled with it a bit and I can see a tone shift, so I would say the builder was correct.

The video is a hoot. And thanks to you Charles, I would have linked to HS but it was near 0230 here and I was tired.

Over on hyperscale early this AM hasegawa to release next, let's hope it's true.

Does this mean I can end my 7 year Beaufighter project, I have two the standard kit and the Modelcraft. I've been waiting years for Derek to offer an interior as that is the most work. I was going to tackle them this winter too. By the way at 62 I'm finished with buying anymore old tools as I have quite enough of them to work through and will save up to purchase the new ones as I do. I've found waiting awhile and purchasing after they have been out a few years after intial release keeps cost reasonable. I do want to get the ZM Ta 152 and P 61 for sure. Have lots of 1/48 b 25,a 20 and b 26's.

Scalehobbyist. com shows the set for 21.19 USD, I've been ordering from them for a few years not as quick as Sprue Bros. usually take about a week.

The IL 2 single seat with wheels and SU 25 are a few pages further along.

I always thin mine with tap water with no problems clogging. I'm sure others will recommend other alternatives. I also prime all plastic parts with Duplicolor Truck, Van & Suv spray primer, it's about 5 USD for a 11 0z (311g) can, it leaves a nice smooth finish. They don't stick so well to bare plastic when masked over with anything other than low tack tape.

My compliments Derek, very impressive and what a lot of work. Any chance of the Beaufighter project bring donr this year?

I would also add to stay away from the old Hase tools. I would recommend watching the for sale forums on several sites. E bay does yield bargains a D9 went for about 25 USD and I got a A5 Priller for 35USD recently, price includes shippiing which always something to watch when you are bidding. Sprue bros also has good prices on these kits in their sales so watch there every month usually can get one for 1/2 MRSP, I did.

The plastic is ABS. The best optiona are CA and Proweld and I've had some luck with Tamiya extra thin. I use CA for filling the trench like panel lines for rescribing.

Pigment drying times are relative terms, Sienas take a bit longer than umbers. Blues and greens are medium drying times with cadmiums taking the longest. It all varies widely. When researchers are testing drying times they put a layer of paint on a palette and check to see how long it takes. So how thick or thin it is affects drying times. I use umbers for my washes on models because of the shorter drying and I like the look of the umbers better. I've read books detailing every available brand of paint made and suprisingly cost is not an indicator of quality. I prefer Maimeri Classico and Da Vinci oil paints based on price and quality. I'll buy other brands if they make a color that I want or like, regardless of cost. Again this all about personal preference.

I've been an oil painting artist for a bit over 30 yrs. When I want something to dry quickly I use raw or burnt umber, all earth tones are naturally fast drying pigments and need no acclerator to speed things up. Colors dry up on my glass palettes overnight, no matter if they are mixed with slower drying pigments or not. The fastest drying medium I ever used was wax, colors really set up fast with it. I usually use the traditional damar/stand oil medium added to my tube colors on the palette.

Today I found two photos of the Trumpeter me 109 f4 built ups at Nurnberg, apparently they copied the 21st Century toys kit, because it has the same errors contained in that kit. It's got the early G scoops at the front and also is missing the small scoop on the right side cowling. The particular access covers also look to be missing, can't tell if the canopy has the E problems though. Quite a disappointment at this late date. Also 2 pictures of the E4, still has the tapered canopy.

If you use any 21st Century type 21 or 22 you would probably want to do something about the type 52 wing that came in the kits. Not to difficult I add a 14mm extension, reshape the tip and rescribe the airlerons. The painting/decal views show the correct wings for these types.