FlorinM Posted May 25, 2013 Share Posted May 25, 2013 The box art of the Revell kit caught my eye. I then saw the plastic at a friend that has it and the Trumpeter, too, plus the Hasegawa D. They said this 50 year old kit is badly flawed. From what I've seen I must disagree. It has some flaws, certainly, but shapewise it is better than the Trumpeter kit. And it is cheap, too. So when I got the opportunity, I bought one. Also acquired were some Aires sets for the Trumpeter kit, such as the cockpit set, the gun bay (it is crap, won't use it), the landing gear bay, Scale Aircraft Conversions' metal gear, and from Quickboost the exhaust, underwing pylons and propeller blades, the Eduard set for the Revell kit , and from HGW the seatbelts. I chose Capt John Brown Jr's bird depicted by Lifelike Decals set 32-015. Francis, sandokan and fastzx 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted May 26, 2013 Share Posted May 26, 2013 OK Florin, you have my attention ! Also WELCOME ! ...............Harv Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlorinM Posted May 26, 2013 Author Share Posted May 26, 2013 Thank you! One of the "major" problems of the Revell kit, first issued in 1969, would be the nose section, which supposedly would have to be replaced entirely with the nose section of a Hasegawa D. It is not the case however, the problem is the top cowling, and it is so easy to fix! I made a resin copy of the Hasegawa piece, intending to use it. But looking at plans I noticed that it was too flat. The Revell piece looked better, but it was too narrow, 2 mm too narrow. An easy fix! Cut it down the middle and add some white styrene, and then putty it over! So, what do you think? Sharkmouth, Tewika, Harold and 1 other 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted May 26, 2013 Share Posted May 26, 2013 HMMM, interesting. I would of never known that. Thanks Florin............Harv Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rafju Posted May 27, 2013 Share Posted May 27, 2013 (edited) . "But looking at plans I noticed that it was too flat. The Revell piece looked better, but it was too narrow, 2 mm too narrow. An easy fix! Cut it down the middle and add some white styrene, and then putty it over! So, what do you think?" ok Florin, let's go 1/ from which reference section plans did start your opinion and job please? 2/ if you add 2mm in the wide dimension of the upper nose cowling, (i think the lower is the resin copy from the Hasegawa part? )how will you connect the new nose to the existing Revell fuselage? thanks Raf Edited May 27, 2013 by rafju Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdthoresen Posted May 27, 2013 Share Posted May 27, 2013 You are a brave man Florin......But unfortunately, the Revell nose has more than a few problems; The first appears to be the top cowl width issue (Which you are working); Second, the lower nose shape in profile is too narrow from the oil chin scoop back to the firewall; The spinner is undersized by a large margin, and the prop blades are too skinny as well. The chin scoop is also too small and incorrect in profile. Nothing that cannot be fixed with some ingenuity. I illustrate what I am talking about, take a spinner from the Hasegawa D, and hold it onto the nose of the Revell kit. Some of the issues will become apparent. But I sure am looking forward to how you proceed....I love classic kits!!!!THOR, a huge P-51B fan........ Harold 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlorinM Posted May 28, 2013 Author Share Posted May 28, 2013 (edited) @ Rajfu 1) my refferences for this build are: P-51 Mustang in detail and scale part 1, North American P-51 Mustang Kagero Topdrawings, North American P-51 Mustang Crowood Press, The North American P-51 Mustang B and C, profile aviation no. 100, Modelism 2/1988 and -late edit- Airframe & Miniature No. 6 "The North American P-51 Early Mustang (including the A-36A, P-51&P-51A to C) by Richard A. Franks, Published by Valiant Wings. A bit thin compared to my Luftwaffe references, but it will have to do. And then, there's the internet and 2) what worked on top will work on the bottom, too, white styrene and the milliput over: @ THOR: top cowl width issue - done: Spinner done, resin copy of Hase. Prop blades done- Quickboost from Aires. Chin scoop done, resin copy, self made. A test fit of the nose would look like this, held together by tape, not that bad an issue... Edited July 28, 2014 by FlorinM sandokan and Sharkmouth 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonH Posted May 28, 2013 Share Posted May 28, 2013 Great start! I will be interested to see how this develops. Cheers Don Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlorinM Posted May 28, 2013 Author Share Posted May 28, 2013 Enjoy, I'm having a blast with this! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ironwing Posted May 31, 2013 Share Posted May 31, 2013 (edited) Florin Way to go...we can never have enough Mustangs. I'll be following with interest. A little hint about the forward cowl: It is very much like the forward cowl of the Spitfire, in that, the left and right upper sides of the forward cowl (CS20) bulge out much like the Spit does. This was done to provide clearance for the V1650 (Packard designation. Only the Brits designated it Merlin) valve heads. The top of the cowling comes close to being flat but it isn't. Be happy to help you with shapes if you care to have it. I've been working on the same issue for the past couple of weeks and pretty much have it sorted out. My references are from the NAA Engineering, and Charles Neely Drawings. They're bullet proof. Best Geoff Edited May 31, 2013 by Ironwing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlorinM Posted June 2, 2013 Author Share Posted June 2, 2013 (edited) @ Geoff : I'll be more than happy with any help I can get, especially if it is bullet proof! In my first post I have claimed that shape-wise the old Revell kit is better than the Trumpeter kit. Here it is! As a benchmark I have used the Hasegawa D, reputed to be accurate both in outline and shape. Three fuselage halves from top to bottom: Revell, Hasegawa and Trumpeter. Note how pointy the Trumpeter nose is. The B fuselage halves together, Revell, on top, is more accurate: The Revell kit (bottom half) has a reputation of having the nose too tapered. Oh, really? Trumpeter on top. Is the 90 degree angle bottom correct? Wasn't it supposed to be rounded? This is the Hase half with the Trumpy on top: Edited June 6, 2013 by FlorinM sandokan and Sharkmouth 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlorinM Posted June 2, 2013 Author Share Posted June 2, 2013 (edited) Wing profiles: Hasegawa (sort of irrelevant due to different wing) - laminar flow wing profile Revell: laminar flow wing profile Trumpeter: WRONG wing profile I think that my decision to use the Revell kit is the right one, its flaws can be corrected much easier than those of its Trumpeter counterpart. Plus I bought it and all the resin goodies at the price of a Trumpy kit. Edited January 21, 2015 by FlorinM Sharkmouth and sandokan 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rafju Posted June 3, 2013 Share Posted June 3, 2013 Florin Way to go...we can never have enough Mustangs. I'll be following with interest. A little hint about the forward cowl: It is very much like the forward cowl of the Spitfire, in that, the left and right upper sides of the forward cowl (CS20) bulge out much like the Spit does. This was done to provide clearance for the V1650 (Packard designation. Only the Brits designated it Merlin) valve heads. The top of the cowling comes close to being flat but it isn't. Be happy to help you with shapes if you care to have it. I've been working on the same issue for the past couple of weeks and pretty much have it sorted out. My references are from the NAA Engineering, and Charles Neely Drawings. They're bullet proof. Best Geoff Hello Geoff Sorry but I'm poor in doc for this front cowl point, is there any good picture or section plan that can be seen somewhere please? Thanks Raf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ironwing Posted June 3, 2013 Share Posted June 3, 2013 Florin, Of the three kits you show, the Hasegawa pretty much has the best nose, but is not without its problems. I've never seen the Trump kit. The Mustang nose nose is much more complex than one would think. Viewing it from the side completely hides the true contours of it. The link below gives an example of converting the Hasegawa D to a B by grafting the Hasegawa front to the Revell back. They fit perfectly together. It also shows how to transplant the Revel wing seat into the Hasegawa fuselage so you can use the Revel wing which, is correctly shaped. http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=21269&hl= Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlorinM Posted June 3, 2013 Author Share Posted June 3, 2013 I do not own the Hasegawa P-51D, a friend has it, and has gently allowed me to copy the most necessary parts in resin. This build log is for the Revell kit that I am improving and not a kit bash like you did. For now my priority is to close the fuselage, and that means improving the radiator area and adding the Aires cockpit. Harold 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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