Takom 1:16 Panzer IB

[LSP_K2]

3 hours ago, LSP_Ron said:

All those injector pin marks would drive me absolutely insane!

 

Oh, they're just gobs of fun.

[josebagasteiz]

Although the ejection marks of the molds are in inconspicuous places, you have done well to eliminate them. I would have too. Good job for now!!

[ChuckD]

I have to say that I've just not been impressed with Takom's molding and engineering.  I've done several of their armor kits and they have all had extensive ejector pin marks and prominent seams everywhere.  I've come to expect better from modern molding techniques, so Takom has been a bit of a disappointment over the years.  

[Rick Griewski]

On 6/1/2022 at 7:42 PM, LSP_K2 said:

And some more, just for luck.

 

These are the swine of the kit. The injection posts on the bottom of the fenders can be snipped a smoothed with a Dremel.  It took up little time. The wheels need multiple blobs of filler. My finger smooshed into at least one on each wheel.  

[LSP_K2]

5 hours ago, Rick Griewski said:

These are the swine of the kit. The injection posts on the bottom of the fenders can be snipped a smoothed with a Dremel.  It took up little time. The wheels need multiple blobs of filler. My finger smooshed into at least one on each wheel.  

 

The liquid putty, as a rule, never needs more than one application, thank goodness.

[Rick Griewski]

Thank goodness!

[LSP_K2]

On 6/5/2022 at 6:07 AM, ChuckD said:

I have to say that I've just not been impressed with Takom's molding and engineering.  I've done several of their armor kits and they have all had extensive ejector pin marks and prominent seams everywhere.  I've come to expect better from modern molding techniques, so Takom has been a bit of a disappointment over the years.  

 

My biggest problem with Takom at the moment, is absolutely zero help in the form of customer service.

[LSP_K2]

I thought I did a really good job on the fender pin marks,... until I spritzed some primer on! This looks pretty horrible, so more surfacer and putty will be needed. It still looks lots better than before though, so that's hopeful.

 

 

 

 

[Rick Griewski]

More primer then some battle field mud. 

[LSP_K2]

1 hour ago, Rick Griewski said:

More primer then some battle field mud. 

 

I've seriously considered that, but the chassis will be basically pretty clean, so mud, to hide the pin marks, would look sort of odd.

[LSP_K2]

While far from perfect, this is a dramatic improvement over what I started with (still needs some more work though, but I am getting there). For those that may be curious, there are 34 ejector pin marks on this piece alone. Combined with the 16 from the four corner pieces, that makes a nice even 50! The reason for concentrating so much on this one area of the kit, is that it absolutely has to be done before attaching to the lower hull, and the upper hull sections cannot be attached until this is, then 90% of my battle will be over with.

 

[LSP_Ray]

Much nicer! I think you are at the point where some pigment work will cover up the pin mark remnants. 

[LSP_K2]

1 hour ago, LSP_Ray said:

Much nicer! I think you are at the point where some pigment work will cover up the pin mark remnants. 

 

True enough, Ray. I'm somewhat obsessed with making sure the judges don't have any major problems with my work. We have some excellent armor modelers here, and I want to do all I can to be as competitive as possible.

[LSP_K2]

One more thing to be wary of with this kit, unless mine is just a freak; the lower hull is twisted. I'm hoping that by keeping the road wheel assemblies loose, that will help compensate for the twist.

[LSP_K2]

I'm calling these done. I went ahead and removed one of the forward fender mounting tabs (port side), as I want that area of the track exposed.