Archer Resin Rivet Decals

[James Rademaker]

I just viewed the Archer tutorial on applying their resin rivets. During the video the narrator mentioned that the surface of the decals were resin. I have a few questions regarding this very interesting product.

 
1. is this product applied on a prime coat or directly on the bare plastic?

2. if applied to bare plastic, does the riveting effect get painted over with the prime and now you loose the riveting under the prime and subsequent applications of paint, and gloss coats  markings?

3. Am I correct in assuming that if the rivets are resin and you run your fingers over the decal they feel bumpy like a real rivet?

4. is this method better to simulate rivets on a an aircraft or using a riveting tool?

 

If anyone has used this product on an aircraft and has insights on using them I would greatly appreciate any tips. 
 

Thanks,

Jim

[Landrotten Highlander]

I have not used this product (yet) but as I understand it these would be my answers:

1: product should be applied like normal decals, i.e. on top of a gloss coat to ensure it slides easily across the surface. (use some excess water for this purpose, then remove excess water carefully once the decal is in the desired place).

2: gets painted over with prime and other coats of paint.  Loss of detail is solely dependant on thickness of paint layers  - so as usuall less is more.

3: there should be something to feel there, although you may have to train your fingers to feel fine detail (a bit like a blind person learns to read braille).

4: depends on the type of rivits you wish to portray.  Methiknks this product is better for those occasions where rivets were visible in real airplanes such as WWI and WWII.  Modern jets have rivets that do not protrude the outer layer of skin, so should not be realy visible (in which case a minor recess to highlight the location of rivets on the skin with a thin wash is more appropriate - but that is down to artistic preferences inmho)

Hope this helps

 

[BiggTim]

Hopefully Woody himself (the owner of Archer, and an LSP member) can offer his insights, but I have used his resin details, and I like them a lot. 

 

I've had good luck applying them over a very smooth primer coat (such as Mr. Surfacer 1500, or Tamiya Fine Gray, maybe with a light wet sand), and a good decal set product to help them adhere. That way, you preserve as much detail as possible. I do agree that they would probably adhere better to a gloss surface, but I don't like to do that under my color coat.

 

I also agree with Highlander that their use depends on what type of rivet you want to depict. Raised rivets, like on a Wildcat, or the band of rivets just ahead of the rudders on a P-38, would be perfect for these. I've also used the slotted screw heads he makes with good effect.

 

I would highly recommend finding Woody's build thread here on LSP for his Wildcat. It should offer some good ideas.

 

Tim

[James Rademaker]

Gentleman, thanks for your suggestions, I appreciate you getting back to me. I was thinking of using this product on my next P-47 T Bolt.

Regards,

Jim

[lawman56]

I've used both the rivets and diamond tread with excellent results. They leave a scale, raised surface that adds a fantastic 3D realism needed in my dioramas. Most recently, ( in the last month), I applied the diamond tread to create the steel plates where a carrier elevator meets the deck. Once I finally get around to installing an image host other than Photobucket, I'll share my pics.

 

Only tip I would give is this; the detail is fantastic, yet somewhat delicate. Even with a new blade, when trimming some of the resin popped off near my deck edges. I expected this, having worked with them before. Since they are applied to a continual film, if you take the time to trim close to the detail, you should be fine. My runs were long, so I'm sure I missed a few, hence the "oopsies". 

 

I have also applied primer to them and just painted direct, both with excellent results. 

 

I've used quite a few of Archer's products and have been very impressed with the quality every time. The few issues I had were always my own doing. Although I blame it on the "Good Idea Fairy" 

 

Hope my babbling helps in some way!

[Rick K]

Love Archer resin decals!   Woody displayed his beautiful Wildcat next to my Tempest at the 2020 Old Dominion Open (Richmond, VA).  Had a chance to chat with Woody at the table.  Had I known who it was I was chatting with I would have given him compliments on his product and showed him where I used his product on my Tempest.

 

I have used them with great success.  Apply on a glossy surface or directly on MRP surface.  Setting solution, I use Walthers, and the film disappears.

 

If your final color is silver (NMF) and your paint is Alclad, AK Interactive, etc..  Be sure to apply a coat primer over the Archer decal before the NMF.  The carrier film somehow reacts to NMF paint and is slightly visible.  This happened to me using Alclad.  Problem is solved by applying a coat of primer over the area and repainting.  Lucky for me this was on a drop tank so it was not a compete repaint of entire aircraft.

 

Individual decals like access doors, etc are EZ, just like regular decals.  When applying a long strip of rivets, especially on a curved surface like a drop tank or curved surface keep in mind these "decals" are fragile.  It was difficult, for me, to apply a long string of rivets.  After a few fails I reduced the length to 2 pieces, making it much easier to manage.

 

Model on!

Edited August 24, 2020 by Rick K

[James Rademaker]

I appreciate you taking the time to answer my question. I’m going to try them!

Regards,

Jim

[Woody V]

On 8/22/2020 at 9:24 AM, James Rademaker said:

I just viewed the Archer tutorial on applying their resin rivets. During the video the narrator mentioned that the surface of the decals were resin. I have a few questions regarding this very interesting product.

 1. is this product applied on a prime coat or directly on the bare plastic?

2. if applied to bare plastic, does the riveting effect get painted over with the prime and now you loose the riveting under the prime and subsequent applications of paint, and gloss coats  markings?

3. Am I correct in assuming that if the rivets are resin and you run your fingers over the decal they feel bumpy like a real rivet?

4. is this method better to simulate rivets on a an aircraft or using a riveting tool?

 

Hi James,

 

Sorry I'm late to this discussion, but I don't spend a lot of time online. Regardless:

 

Our rivets are raised resin "bumps" cast onto Microscale clear decal film. The recommended way to apply them to clear coated bare styrene, and we strongly recommend lacquer based clear for this. You can also apply them over primer, but it has to be clear coated for maximum adhesion. As far as losing detail under paint, unless you put your paint on with a mop, they show up prominently. 

 

As for are they better than a riveting tool that puts recessed divots into the model, those are two entirely different animals. Riveting wheels are for planes with flush rivets, Archer rivets are for planes with button head (brazier head technically) rivets.

 

If you click the link in my signature, you can see my Wildcat and there's also a link to the WIP.

Currently, I'm riveting a Trumpeter SBD HERE if you're interested.

 

If I can be of any further help, you can always send an email to help@archertransfers.com

[Woody V]

On 8/24/2020 at 8:15 AM, Rick K said:

When applying a long strip of rivets, especially on a curved surface like a drop tank or curved surface keep in mind these "decals" are fragile.  It was difficult, for me, to apply a long string of rivets.  After a few fails I reduced the length to 2 pieces, making it much easier to manage.

 

Hi Rick!

So that was your Tempest... Sweet! Too bad we didn't realize we "knew" each other.

Next year for sure.

 

As for long strips, the trick is to be sure the back of the decal is very wet. Just before applying them brush water onto the back of the decal and you should be able to run a strip any length. This makes them come off the backing much easier, eliminating the stress on the decal.  If you're using lacquer based clear, you can spray a wet coat of lacquer thinner designed for models over the rivet decals to create a molecular bond between the decal film (which is lacquer) to the clear underneath. 

 

Endeavor to persevere.

[James Rademaker]

Woody,

  thanks for the assistance on applying your rivets. I appreciate you taking the time to help me. 
Thanks,

Jim

[Rick K]

On 8/29/2020 at 2:24 PM, Archer Fine Transfers said:

 

Hi Rick!

So that was your Tempest... Sweet! Too bad we didn't realize we "knew" each other.

Next year for sure.

 

As for long strips, the trick is to be sure the back of the decal is very wet. Just before applying them brush water onto the back of the decal and you should be able to run a strip any length. This makes them come off the backing much easier, eliminating the stress on the decal.  If you're using lacquer based clear, you can spray a wet coat of lacquer thinner designed for models over the rivet decals to create a molecular bond between the decal film (which is lacquer) to the clear underneath. 

 

Endeavor to persevere.

Thanks for the coaching.  Lets connect next year.

 

Model on.