wile1411 Posted March 5, 2016 Share Posted March 5, 2016 for some reason I thought you'd finished when I looked at this thread late last year. Glad you've been able to get it back on the bench again.Looks great with the cockpit painted! Fooesboy 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fooesboy Posted March 8, 2016 Author Share Posted March 8, 2016 Thanks for the feedback guys, it's always nice reading your comments. The belts have turned out ok, still not as realistic as I have seen some people achieve. John, there is really no point in me doing a tutorial on the belts, it would be a bit like the blind leading the blind...... The stitching was already printed on the material, the only thing I have done is a light brown wash with artist's oil paints to give a little more depth then a very fine wash around the buckles with AK dark brown enamel wash (love that stuff, so easy to use). P.S. I thought that you were doing a build thread on the Zero..... With any luck your small delay will give me a chance to catch up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fooesboy Posted March 8, 2016 Author Share Posted March 8, 2016 (edited) A very quick update, I have installed the seat and the control stick as well as modified the attachment points for the dash (need a larger slot to allow for the 2 added pieces of PE). This was not a fun thing to be doing with the cockpit almost fully assembled. I have also clear coated the supplied paper instrument faces to enable me to place the Airscale decals over the top. This tip I had received from Peter after asking for advice on how to use them.... http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=61209 Next I have been working on the radiators and supporting structure. This piece does not seam to want to play nicely with the rest.... Do you have any ideas John? I probably will not have time to work on this for a couple of days, looks like Friday will be the next time..... really itching to get stuck in! Edited August 19, 2017 by Fooesboy John F Smith and jgrease 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeanKB Posted March 8, 2016 Share Posted March 8, 2016 Good to see you back modelling - that's one hell of a kit & I've not seen it before, how much did that cost you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John F Smith Posted March 9, 2016 Share Posted March 9, 2016 ....mmmm I'm trying real hard to remember, Chris. I searched and I don't have any photos of this area of the kit on my own build. But, if my memory is correct, the instructions were very poor on the whole radiator and cooler assembly. I think you may have that intake grill and radiator assembly in place backwards. I could certainly be wrong, but it looks to me like that part is in place the wrong way around. .... give it a try. Message received on the seat belts. I love the way that the stitching shows up on yours, and I was disappointed with my Corsair belts from HGW because the stitching on the laser cut parts is very poor. There just isn't enough there to even pick up a wash well. Maybe I should fake it with another set that has the detail I want! Yup, I did start a build thread on the Zero but haven't touched it in many moons now. I'll be starting it back up when I start my Zero again.....I keep plugging away at this awesome Corsair.....I love it but I've spent an awful lot of time on the 'pit. Your work looks really good, Chris. I hope we can see how your instrument panel turns out soon. I'm itching to see this masterpiece. ... and thanks for the link to the discussion of how to make the airscale product work in these circumstances. John Fooesboy 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scvrobeson Posted March 9, 2016 Share Posted March 9, 2016 This is certainly an interesting way to build a model. Building it out of all that metal has to give a great feel for how the real plane works. You certainly have a lot of patience to work with all of that photo-etch Matt Fooesboy 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fooesboy Posted March 9, 2016 Author Share Posted March 9, 2016 Good to see you back modelling - that's one hell of a kit & I've not seen it before, how much did that cost you? Hi Dean, Feels really good to be back in the saddle! I purchased this kit from HLJ http://www.hlj.com/product/IMCZ-002/Air Here is a link to IMCTH, they also do a Zero, an bf 109 and a Shinden. There is also a 1/16 Zero that was produced by IMCTH but marketed by De Agostini.... that will be my 5th aircraft! http://imcth.co.jp/english/ I feel that this kit is well worth the money, no extra details need to be added, it's very well engineered, parts are beautifully cast and everything fits with Tamiya like precision. It looks complicated, but in reality, it's quite straightforward. (disclaimer... I really enjoy the challenge of working with very small pieces.... your mileage may vary) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fooesboy Posted March 9, 2016 Author Share Posted March 9, 2016 Hey John, Thanks for stopping in again, having you watching over is great! I'm sure that I have fitted the cooler parts correctly, I have a feeling that because the mounting of the large cooler was a bit iffy and I didn't take the time to correct it that that may have pushed everything slightly to one side. Once the wing is attached I hope (really, really hope) that the discrepancy will be unnoticed as long as I don't point it out to everyone.... oops, bit late now! Have you thought about posting a few photos of your Corsair? No need to do the full WIP thing, but it would be nice to see your approach. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fooesboy Posted March 9, 2016 Author Share Posted March 9, 2016 This is certainly an interesting way to build a model. Building it out of all that metal has to give a great feel for how the real plane works. You certainly have a lot of patience to work with all of that photo-etch Matt Hi Matt, Nice to have you along! I always loved cutaway drawings as a kid, when I found these skeleton models I just HAD to get one. Patience is a prerequisite with modeling in general, but how anyone can putty, scribe and re-rivet an entire model is beyond me! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fooesboy Posted March 21, 2016 Author Share Posted March 21, 2016 (edited) Hi Guys, Time for another small update. The next big step was the instrument panel, this is a big job for me so naturally I decided to exercise my favorite pastime... Procrastination! So therefor I started working on the coolant and oil pipes that run under the cockpit, as I (naively) thought that it wouldn't be too hard of a task. They are made from solder wire and are nice and soft, bend easily and stay how they are placed... right?.... more on this in a future tale. Sooo, back to the instrument panel it is then. I started out by finding a good photo on line of the panel, printed it out and numbered each instrument with the corresponding Airscale decal number. After this photo was taken I have made a couple of corrections, for anyone using this thread in the future the changes are: #28 changed to #13, #7 changed to #6 and the unlabeled one in the center is #23 Here I wanted to show the difference between what is supplied in the kit and what the Airscale decals look like. Please remember that this is a work in progress and the decals have not yet conformed to the surface, still a lot of moisture under the decals. This is my method for applying decals: I take a small dish and place a kitchen sponge (clean, one purchased just for this task) and wet out with normal tap water, the decals are placed onto the sponge where they will quickly loosen from the backing sheet. Then it is a simple matter of picking up the decal and placing it on the model. In this case I used tweezers and picked up the decal its self but you could use a paint brush or even pick up the backing paper I find this method preferably because the small decals will not float away if left too long in the water, the decals can be left for extended lengths of time without damage. For example dinner, a phone call, unexpected visitors, fighting with the carpet monster..... Here everything is in place with a good 'ol blob of Kristal Klear, you just have to wait to see how it has turned out.... Just kidding, you can see now. The Kristal Klear was applied 2 days ago and it still need some more time to dry. Coming along nicely, but this means that I am going to have to face those darn coolant pipes.... Edited August 19, 2017 by Fooesboy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P-51D Man Posted March 21, 2016 Share Posted March 21, 2016 Everything looks fantastic. I love the cockpit. Nice detail going on. Fooesboy 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Peterpools Posted March 21, 2016 Share Posted March 21, 2016 Chris Awesome IP ... brilliantly done Keep 'em coming Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John F Smith Posted March 21, 2016 Share Posted March 21, 2016 Really amazing work, Chris! That instrument panel looks fantastic! Now, let's talk for a moment about those pipes I really had a difficult time with those things and it was because I tried to use the solder that came with the kit. It's simply too big around and not nearly flexible enough for the job. And using their measurements to do the pieces didn't work out either. I heartily suggest that you procure some off the shelf rosin core solder in a diameter which suits you for the work. I remember using several different sizes until I was happy with the balance between flexibility, the ability to run it in a straight line, and realism. In fact, I ended up running my piping end to end in a single piece. I know it doesn't seem possible, but it will work; just play with the length until it works out for you and cut shape and glue the joining pieces with medium or even gel CA (you can smooth the joints after they set with some acetone on a smooth brush). Anyway, hope that helps and give me a shout if you need any help. John Fooesboy 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fooesboy Posted March 21, 2016 Author Share Posted March 21, 2016 In fact, I ended up running my piping end to end in a single piece. I know it doesn't seem possible, but it will work; just play with the length until it works out for you and cut shape and glue the joining pieces with medium or even gel CA (you can smooth the joints after they set with some acetone on a smooth brush). John Hi John, thanks for checking in again, Have I understood you correctly in that you ran the pipes all the way from the engine to the radiators in one piece??? Are you some kind of madman? Total respect if you have managed that, but I'm no superhuman. I currently have four in place and will go back and work on the last 2 sometime this evening. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John F Smith Posted March 21, 2016 Share Posted March 21, 2016 Yup, Chris, that's exactly what I did. No, it wasn't superhuman; it was just that I couldn't get happy with the job I did on the piping in sections. Necessity was the mother of invention. However, with your obvious skills, I'm sure you have managed to get it right the way that they intended in the instructions. Waiting anxiously for photos when you are done! John Fooesboy 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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