karimb Posted December 11, 2014 Author Share Posted December 11, 2014 Part two lol... Since no painting was to be done today i decided to start working on the pit, to get at least some of the uncoloured etch on so i can prime everything in one go and then add the coloured photoetch at a later stage. The etch for the cockpit, canopies and seat is a total of 6 etched frets, 'eduard' size so pretty big. 4 of those are coloured by the way, and two of them are for the seats alone. I started by modifying what needed to be modified on the kit parts...the kit tub is a single piece, and it has ejector pinmarks all around the bottom of the tub and on the sides where the consoles are, but its not of major importance to be honest, as the sides will be covered with the PE and the tub bottom is mostly covered up by the bang seats and the pedals. The IP coamings are very nicely textured, with the shrouds being split in half with two different textures to either side. The detail is crisp on those, but a bit on the poor side. The PE will get all that arranged along with some wiring additions and the such.I managed to add the PE sidewalls to the pilot section and the RIO's too. The PE frets have very nice engraving on them too... Also modified the IPs as called out for in the eduard instructions. I also added the PE on the front coaming on the HUD and to my surprise, you also get in photoetch the 'camera' that shows up in the references, and that records what is projected on the HUD. Did you know the tomcat has a HUD that works differently than the regular run of the mill HUDs? i was surprised when i read this in the references, the A and B models had the middle of the front windscreen part in 'green' colour because the HUD projector displayed the actual information on the inside of the canopy rather than on a dedicated glass piece for the HUD....pretty neat Talking about references, i also found a couple of omissions on the kit parts, and that are not covered by the eduard etch parts either, but its probably type specific, like in my case the late f14a with the LANTIRN pod (thats why i said in the previous post to read below). The LANTIRN equipped tomcats had a dedicated controller on the left side console of the RIO in order to be able to control the pod, and to my knowledge, they also had the GPS box on top of the handhold on the RIO's IP coaming (both non existant...cmon, a controller is a big bit how can you miss that??)... Also of note, the sides of the coaming of the RIO also have vents (I added extra PE meshing from the spares box) and a cable that runs from the handhold to the side on the right side and its supposed to be the connector between the switches to activate the chaff/flare dispenser (added this bit with an electrical wire, to which i left part of the insulation in order for it to look like the 'plug') First, two photos of the reference materials with the stuff shown I still havent sort of sorted out what i am going to do with the joystick issue, might just end up carving one that would look 'remotely' acceptable from a distance lol...we'll see Also of note, part E26 is covered with ejector pinmarks, and they have to be puttied and sanded in, although the back of the ejection seats and the coaming of the RIO will cover them up, but i am not taking any chances here since the cockpit will be open... photo below A photo of the tub with the sidewalls glued in...Also below a photo of the RIO's coaming and the wire i added. Looks more like the reference now I put all those aside and decided to get a start on the seats to get to prime them too when the time comes, as they are not made up of many parts. I also decided to get those done, as all the photoetch for the seats is coloured so can only be added after i get those painted and weathered... The modifications required by eduard on the seats are not drastic, some parts have to be chopped off and some sanded clean, so again nothing major... Assembly went pretty smooth on those and comparing them to references, they look alright although a bit lacking in details. I will add whatever wiring i can add that will not be interfering with the placement of the photoetch... Two last pictures of the tub and coamings and seats, all just resting in place, nothing tacked or glued in... Guys, take a look at the PE part on top of the HUD, eduard shows it as being like this, but it doesnt really make any sense to have the PE part like this bending down, i would have thought the 'ring' should have been flush on the coaming but the instructions show it differently... ive tried to look it up in the references, but i cant seem to find a good photo to decided wether to make the part conform to the coaming or just leave it like this... your help and comments would be greatly appreciated guys Then i had to make a run for it go get my daughter in rush hour traffic to take her to the doctors, then back over to my place... Tomorrow hopefully if she gets better ill try to do some more work on the pit, mainly reference comparing and prepare the grey that would be a match to the colour the eduard etch is printed in...and some little things i can get out of the way before the major work comes...alot of etch bending too for the circuit breakers on the back and on the sides aboce the consoles in the RIO part of the pit... Well, off i go then, its 2300 and havent really had time to grab a bite since late morning... See you all tomorrow Stay safe and happy modeling Karim mywifehatesmodels, Whitey and Tewika 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
karimb Posted December 11, 2014 Author Share Posted December 11, 2014 Revell do a puma in 1/32 scale, nice pins by the way Clive Clive thanks for leaving a word... im going to look up the puma tomorrow see if i can manage to find one lol Karim Most important of all, how is your daughter doing? I hope the medication is starting to take effect and that she will be feeling better. Terrific re-do on the gear .. looks right on the money and you're so right, the spring looks perfect now. Looking forward to the next update and photos. Keep 'em coming Peter Peter, thank you my friend for asking in about Zoe...shes better, has a fever that we got under control at night, but she has a sore throat so it makes it hard for her to eat well...she didnt like how the meds tasted either lol but its okay shes getting better since i got her over... You have my heartfelt appreciation for asking about her Im glad you like how the gear looks lol, it kept gnawing at me yesterday night before going to bed so i had to do something about it today first thing. Version 2.0 looks much better i think... version 1.0 was funny with the weird extended spring looked like a black and white barber pole Thank you again Peter... Karim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Peterpools Posted December 11, 2014 Share Posted December 11, 2014 Karim Very glad to hear Zoe is starting to feel better and respond to the meds, no matter how bad they taste. Nice start on the front offcie and ejection seats. I checked the DACO book and page 70&71 were the closest to the HUD photos but didn't answer the question. I did find this photo which shows the HUD to good effect. I hope it helps. http://www.aircraftresourcecenter.com/AWA1/001-100/walk070_F14/images/Doc1-103.jpg Keep 'em coming Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlorinM Posted December 12, 2014 Share Posted December 12, 2014 RESPECT! Keep doing what you do, it looks really good! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek B Posted December 12, 2014 Share Posted December 12, 2014 You work fast Karim (I wonder if you sleep!). Terrific work. Derek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
karimb Posted December 12, 2014 Author Share Posted December 12, 2014 Good evening everyone, Sorry today due to my daughter being sick i didnt manage to get alot of stuff covered, really just one bit done lol, but substantial... Ill reply to everyone then off with the evening post Karim Very glad to hear Zoe is starting to feel better and respond to the meds, no matter how bad they taste. Nice start on the front offcie and ejection seats. I checked the DACO book and page 70&71 were the closest to the HUD photos but didn't answer the question. I did find this photo which shows the HUD to good effect. I hope it helps. http://www.aircraftresourcecenter.com/AWA1/001-100/walk070_F14/images/Doc1-103.jpg Keep 'em coming Peter Peter thank you today things improved compared to yesterday, much less drama taking the meds but still terribly hard to get Zoe to eat well...ended up eating bicuits and milk all day lol... Thank you very much for taking the time to look up the photo and posting the link... It provided a fair bit of help along with the other ones i managed to find through browsing the references, so bottom line, i pushed the etch part down to contour with the hud projector best as i could leaving a bit of it a bit raised... i guess it should do the job ... Thanks for checking in my friend and as always thank you for all the support RESPECT! Keep doing what you do, it looks really good! FlorinM, thanks for the kind comment im glad you guys are liking what shes turning out like You work fast Karim (I wonder if you sleep!). Terrific work. Derek Derek, thank you for the kind comment.... lol i do get sleep, there you go, today i didnt get to do much at all with all thats happening around and taking care of my sick two year old daughter Hopefully ill have some more stuff to show tomorrow or the day after Thanks again for taking the time to leave a word So guys, for what its worth, here's today update below Derek B 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
karimb Posted December 12, 2014 Author Share Posted December 12, 2014 Good evening everyone, again I apologize ahead of time for not having any substantial amount of progress to talk about today. As some of you know, my daughter is sick with tonsilitis, so i had to take care of her today...pretty long day it was, but thankfully shes improving... I managed in the late afternoon to sneak to the work bench for an hour and to be honnest, didnt get to do much except one part i needed to get done before priming. I assembled the canopy framing, modified the parts that need modification and added the myriad tiny pieces of PE that go on there. A couple of things of note, the eduard PE fret have two parts labeled wrong, on the fret, the part number that the instructions call for is correct... it happens. Second thing of note, the fit canopy/canopy frame is terrible (i dryfit both parts to see what nice surprises were to come, and im not very pleased to say the least)... Last thing of note, going through the instructions comparing the tam and eduard ones, there is a big etched part that covers the entry sills and back of the cockpit, but it has no provision for the canopy opening strut, although the tamiya one has and provides you with a nice metal rod to represent the canopy opening actuator. Now the question to you photoetch experts out there, is there a way to drill a hole in a thin, but substancially big in surface photoetch part without actually bending it out of shape? i need to find a way to drill a hole large enough to accomodate the actuator that goes through from the canopy down to the kit part that houses the other end of the actuator... your input is highly valued guys, so throw away all you can think of lol Anyways, after quite a few scares, a close encounter with the carpet monster and some careful bending, i ended up with this Well, i guess thats it for me today... ill try tomorrow to find a bit more time to squeeze off at the bench as long as it is at no one's expense If i find time tomorrow the plan is i'll prime all the parts done up to now. After the priming i want to paint some black preshading (ill use it as an excuse to paint the canopy frame black too lol) then paint the cockpit with the grey mix i made to match the eduard coloured etch, then we can resume assembling the pe in the cockpit and start the detail painting on the bang seat to add the pe on those too at a later stage....ah yes and also prime and paint the main gears and the main gear doors... Thank you for all the comments and support im getting during this build, im glad you guys are enjoying how shes coming along Stay safe, and happy modeling to all Karim Whitey 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dandiego Posted December 12, 2014 Share Posted December 12, 2014 Karim,you work fast and do great work.It took me 6 months to get this far. I used the same PE set that you are using on the canopy frame. I don't think it is mentioned in the instructions but the small folded items opposite from the canopy locks are supposed to hold a canopy de-fogging tube. Make sure that you find a way to attach the tube before paint as the glueing surface is non-existant. I wrapped the tube with very fine wire and then glued the wire to the holders. It worked for me but it was a pain. Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Peterpools Posted December 12, 2014 Share Posted December 12, 2014 Karim Good news that Zoe is doing better with each passing day. Nothing as satisfying as parts labeled wrong, not fitting and the the carpet monster stops by for a snack. The canopy latching PE parts looks fantastic and add quite a but to the front offcie. Looking forward to the next update. Glad the photo/link was of some help with working out the HUD details. Keep 'em coming Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jarda_Hajecek Posted December 13, 2014 Share Posted December 13, 2014 Great progress Karim. I like your approach to the way you take care of the subassemblies individually. Because if therebis one thing that I dislike are those fiddly bits, weapons and landing gears when most of the model is finished, so I tend to make them done like this as well so its not as daunting at the finish stage of the model. Your work is simply superb. Thanks for sharing and get well wishes for Zoe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loic Posted December 13, 2014 Share Posted December 13, 2014 Looks awsome Karim ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thierry laurent Posted December 13, 2014 Share Posted December 13, 2014 Hi Karim - following along with great interest...About the BDR panels...Tamiya went through a phase in the early 90s where they put BDR panels on their 32 scale kits...maybe even the smaller ones (1/48).. The F-4D is full of them: http://www.largescaleplanes.com/articles/article.php?aid=236 " I did have to remove some "extra" panels. Tamiya used, of all things, a "gate guard" to reference the model. This aircraft had various battle damage repairs, and other extras. It was probably used to help train the sheet metal techs before it became a "gate guard".' If you don't see a panel in your reference pictures, you probably should remove it! Enjoy! clarkis Pleeeease stop propagating this myth! Such panels are NOT bdr! Tamiya simply exagerated the fact that some panels were slightly protruding on some planes. If you are not convinced, look at the panel lines. Bdr were put over damages and even over some structure lines. They are never thicker panels replacing the normal ones. If you look closely at pictures of some full scale planes, you will see that such panels are indeed visible and looking thicker than usual. I guess that lighting has also a role in this perception. You will find different Tomcat pictures showing this. Thierry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thierry laurent Posted December 13, 2014 Share Posted December 13, 2014 Hi Karim, I saw your remark about the main wheel rim type. In fact, the Tamiya type is not only the one of the prototype. Early blocks used the same ones. At least two other variants were used later and they are available from Wolfpack for a cheap price (6$): wp32004 and wp32005. hth Thierry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
karimb Posted December 13, 2014 Author Share Posted December 13, 2014 Good evening everyone... Sorry for the late post, i still want to reply to everyone before actually posting today's progress... moving forward steadily, today i managed to put in alot more work, and Zoe is back to her normal self no fever and back to eating yumyum lol Karim,you work fast and do great work.It took me 6 months to get this far.I used the same PE set that you are using on the canopy frame. I don't think it is mentioned in the instructions but the small folded items opposite from the canopy locks are supposed to hold a canopy de-fogging tube. Make sure that you find a way to attach the tube before paint as the glueing surface is non-existant.I wrapped the tube with very fine wire and then glued the wire to the holders. It worked for me but it was a pain.Dan Dan, I dont know how to thank you enough. You saved me from going an important oversight of something as visible as the defogging tubes. First thing i did this morning was to go back to the references and dang, they were darn visible. I was asking myself yesterday what those brakets on the canopy sill were, silly me. Using a magnifier lol (yes for once...) i noticed the eduard brackets had an indent for the tubing, so i used soldering wire 0.8mm and it was exactly the width to fit the bracket so i used this material. I made the little vent discs by punching styrene... Thank you again for the save im glad you mentionned it Karim Good news that Zoe is doing better with each passing day. Nothing as satisfying as parts labeled wrong, not fitting and the the carpet monster stops by for a snack. The canopy latching PE parts looks fantastic and add quite a but to the front offcie. Looking forward to the next update. Glad the photo/link was of some help with working out the HUD details. Keep 'em coming Peter Peter, Thank you so much for asking about Zoe...today shes was kicking about the house laughing and being all curious as she always has been...Thank God So i managed to put in more work on the kit today....its moving along pretty solidly... Thanks again for everything my friend... Karim,Firstly I hope your daughter gets well soon { I know what she's going through..suffering similar thing too..honey in hot home made lemonade will help ease the throat}.Secondly I have a part Lebaneses , part Egyptian American Niece By marriage so Arab/Lebaneses food is eaten }.... And thirdly , OUTSTANDING, EXEMPLARY , detailed work. Very INSPIRATIONAL.. IT ROCKS!! Maruuuu lol been a while... shes much better, thank you so much for asking. Today shes back to 'normal' running around the house laughing and playing around. I hope you like lebanese food my friend lol, its pretty good. And your niece being part lebanese part egyptian part american explains alot lol... Thank you so much for the kind words and continuing support, its always a joy to read your comments Great progress Karim. I like your approach to the way you take care of the subassemblies individually. Because if therebis one thing that I dislike are those fiddly bits, weapons and landing gears when most of the model is finished, so I tend to make them done like this as well so its not as daunting at the finish stage of the model. Your work is simply superb. Thanks for sharing and get well wishes for Zoe. Jarda, thank you so much for your wishes...really i appreciate... It seems im not the only one lol who likes to finish the 'boring' bit of the build like the weapons first, so all the work that gets done after is more enjoyable... with a kit this size i think its almost impossible not to work in subassemblies, or you end up with a huge 'monster' to paint all at once and its practically impossible lol Thank you again for your kind comment and taking the time to leave a word Looks awsome Karim ! Thanks Loic Pleeeease stop propagating this myth!Such panels are NOT bdr! Tamiya simply exagerated the fact that some panels were slightly protruding on some planes. If you are not convinced, look at the panel lines. Bdr were put over damages and even over some structure lines. They are never thicker panels replacing the normal ones. If you look closely at pictures of some full scale planes, you will see that such panels are indeed visible and looking thicker than usual. I guess that lighting has also a role in this perception. You will find different Tomcat pictures showing this.Thierry Thierry laurent, the famous thierry laurent that gives us all the tweak lists? Thank you very much for those, i can imagine how much time it must take you to write them down. Regarding the 'myth' of BDRs, i dont know if it is the case on the F14A that tamiya produces, but i am pretty sure some of the 'thick' panels tamiya has moulded in their other 1/32 kits do represent some bdr patching to the extent of my knowledge... but i might be wrong there, i am no expert Thank you for taking the time to post Hi Karim,I saw your remark about the main wheel rim type. In fact, the Tamiya type is not only the one of the prototype. Early blocks used the same ones. At least two other variants were used later and they are available from Wolfpack for a cheap price (6$): wp32004 and wp32005.hthThierry Thank you Thierry again for taking the time to post the item numbers for the wheels, ill sure look those up at Wolfpack... Again thank you everyone for leaving comments, and taking the time to read and follow this build... Below tonight's progress post Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matto21 Posted December 13, 2014 Share Posted December 13, 2014 Hi Karim, Amazing work so far! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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