Alclad paints

[phantom]

I have heard there is a "bad" oder to these paints, is this true? Do you have to prime the plastic?

 

Mike

[csavaglio]

The odor is no worse than any other lacquer, which is what they are.

 

I prime everything regardless unless it is a very small part. Depending on the shade, you will have to prime differently. Shiny shades, such as polished aluminum or chrome, require a shiny black base. Matte colors can get away with spraying over a matte primer. The shinier the base, the shinier the finish. The shiny shades won't stick well to a matt finish.

 

 

 

Chris

[Guest Peterpools]

MIke

Chris is right on the money. Alclad is lacquer and that's what the strong odor is. I always prime with either Tamiya Fine Gray Lacuer Primer or Krylon Gloss Black Fusion Gloss Black for plastic primer before shooting Alclad.

[scvrobeson]

You don't have to prime it, but it's not a bad idea. Every company's plastic is different. But as long as you put mist coats of it on, and don't flood the part with Alclad, you should never have to worry about it causing problems to the plastic.

 

 

 

Matt

[csavaglio]

Matt's right, but I'd add too that Alclad isn't 100% opaque, so things like glue marks (even if sanded smooth), seams, disimilar plastic colors, marks in the plastic from the injection process, and filler will all show through. Priming evens everything out.

 

As an aside, using different shades of primer and different matte/glossy combinations can give different shades and sheens, even within the same model to give different looks to different panels.

 

C

[DoogsATX]

If you're using Alclad's high-shine finishes like Airframe Aluminum, they're actually translucent, so primer and primer color matter a lot.

 

Less so for regular finishes like Aluminum or Magnesium.

[Out2gtcha]

If your using them over resin like im about to (I personally am a BIG believer in NOT priming if you done have to as more paint layers start to blur surface detail IMO) then I would definitely recommend always priming with a lacquer of some sort.

 

In the case of my current project (all resin) I used a strong caustic cleaner on the bear resin, then washed w/soap and water, then wiped down w/91% alcohol, then Tamiya fine white primer then the gloss black primer, and finally the Alclad itself.

 

As to the odor of Alclad, as others have mentioned, it is lacquer so the smell if right on par with any lacquer paints.

[scvrobeson]

Matt's right, but I'd add too that Alclad isn't 100% opaque, so things like glue marks (even if sanded smooth), seams, disimilar plastic colors, marks in the plastic from the injection process, and filler will all show through. Priming evens everything out.

 

As an aside, using different shades of primer and different matte/glossy combinations can give different shades and sheens, even within the same model to give different looks to different panels.

 

C

 

 

Very true, it will pick up on everything. So if you have a bunch of different colors on there, or different shades of putty or paint, then adding a primer coat will help. And if it's going to be shiny, then it's essential to have a primer coat. But if you're just painting normal parts with Alclad, don't worry about a primer. Just paint it on.

 

 

Matt

[csavaglio]

I've had issues on some kit's plastic, such as the softer, limited run stuff, where alcad sprayed directly on never quite dries right and stays tacky. Not sure how it reacted with the plastic differently than harder stuff, like from Tamiya or Hasegawa, but it did. For me, I'm not spraying super thick coats of primer, so I prime everything except the smallest parts and I don't really have problems with losing much detail.

[DrDave]

I have brushed it on as a wash for small engine parts and on PE.

It's also worth polishing the surface with mesh before alclad. It does have a nice depth when sprayed over gloss black

[DoogsATX]

I have brushed it on as a wash for small engine parts and on PE.

It's also worth polishing the surface with mesh before alclad. It does have a nice depth when sprayed over gloss black

 

For an extra kick, polish the surface with micromesh, then buff it with a cloth buffing wheel on a dremel. The difference between gloss black and gloss black buffed to a mirror shine is staggering if you're doing a high-shine finish like Airframe Aluminum.

 

[DrDave]

AARGH!

 

My EYES!

[csavaglio]

Of course, it depends on how shiny you're really going for......war time polished airplanes didn't stay highly polished for long, typically. Unlike a lot of the ultra pampered air show planes you see nowadays.

[LSP_Kevin]

Here's my Hughes H-1 racer finished in Alclad Polished Aluminium over Humbrol Gloss Black:

 

 

I didn't polish the gloss black, but probably should have. Still needs some touch ups, which I'll get to eventually.

 

Kev

[oldgoat]

So, anybody know of a compatibility chart for Alclad vs all comers? Like a under/over guide?

I have just started a ZM P-51D that will have a partial metal/OD scheme. I am very unsure of how to avoid a disaster(not that that ever stopped one from occurring). Vid I have watched say to shade panels with UNDERcoats, rather than using tints on top of base in order to achieve differences in panel colors, and sheens. Any advice is appreciated.

K

 

BTW, what scale is that Hughes, Kev? It is magnificent!

Edited September 16, 2013 by oldgoat