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Fokker DVII (FOK) Jasta 71


Guest Peterpools

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Guest Peterpools

Jerry

Thanks for the kind words. Everything on the Fokker is per the kit, including the manifold, seatbelts and harnesses. I have found that WNW keeps adding more and more to their kits and I can see a big difference between the Fokker and the Albi. I still need to go back and hope for a miracle with the Albi wings and that's coming up pretty fast now. One point common to all the WNW kits: the part fit is very precise and parts being glued together should have the paint scrapped off first, so the fit is perfect. I've gotten in the habit of using Extra Thin and not scraping off the paint on all my models before the WNW kits and that just doesn't work well at all now.

The good old GB .. I'm planning on building the WNW SE 5a Hisso.

Looking forward to your Albi build

Peter

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Wow, fantastic work so far.

 

You will find the fuse fit very tight and feels like it maybe too tight. Here is what I found in my build of this kit so far. I glue the cockpit to the left side using making sure the molded in (angled) alignment guide on the fuse and the cockpit rear bulk head are well matched (fuse assembly as far back in the fuse as possible. Make sure it's glued well because the taper of the fuse wants to push the cockpit forward when you pinch the fuse halfs together (which will take some force). If it moves forward nothing from the firewall forward will fit. Glue the top spine first as the instructions recommend, it will take considerable pressure to get the halves to meet around the back of the cockpit opening, but they do meet well. Let that dry then glue the bottom seam the same way. You may find you need a shim between the cockpit floor and lower fuse as the lower fuse does tend to bend inward in a U shape when glued. It needs to be dead flat to meet the lower wing.

 

Also leave the entire front engine mount and fuse tube frames unglued. The engine mounts should only be glued at the upper fire wall and first lower elbow where it connects to the fuse tubulars, don't glue the front mounts to the forward fuse tubulars. Glue the engine into its four mount locations making sure the mounting tabs are fully seated into the engine block locating slots. leaving the forward framing unglued allows you to mount the front rad to the front engine mounts and have movement to center the crank shaft in the radiator cowl opening. This is the most difficult area to build on the kit. Everything else buttons up nicely from there.

 

Note as well, if you are gluing the cowl sides and bottom on then you don't need any of the lower K tubulars around the lower engine mount. They serve no structural purpose in the kit and cannot be seen with the cowl on. They make assembling the cowl panels a little more difficult.

 

I hope this makes sense

 

Ron

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Guest Peterpools

Thanks Jeroen

So very much appreciated.

You're going to love the Fokker and believe me, you'll be blown away by the six larhe sheets of decals. By normal accounts, they must be worth $50-$70 plus, if bought on their own, i've never seen anything like it!.

It would be great to see you jump into the Fokker Flying Circus!

Peter

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Guest Peterpools

Ron

Thanks so much for the compliments and detailed instructions. I'll be following them exactly as you have laid them out. I've test fitted all the internals and all the problematic areas are there. Both the D and E schemes have do not use the top portion of the cowl and the upper portion of the Mercedes is hanging out in the wind.

I will be paying extra attention to the lower fuselage/wing assembly area. I already have my hands full with the lower wings of the Albatros and don't want to tangle with any more of those problems.

Thanks again for all the help and advice ....

Peter

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No problem,

 

I had no issues with the lower wing, I did give the lower wing a sand with a nail board along the edges that the fuse sides slide into but only to remove the paint. The wings and struts actually fit well just as the instructions show. This plane has absolutely no dihedral, both wings are board flat. Once the cowl is on etc the rest is a breeze.

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Guest Peterpools

Thanks Mitch

Appreciate the kind words. They can be a bit testy at times but a 'boat load of fun' and Big Bang fr the Bucks.

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Geez Pete, You're doing a great job on the engine. I'm going to get me one of these kits as soon as Arrow Wolf stocks them!

 

Yeah, yeah ... hint, hint .... I get the message :)

 

I've got a Roden Fokker D.VI if you want something earlier and want to be different :innocent: otherwise just a WnW's Albi D.V and a Sopwith Pup if you don't :hmmm:

 

Grant

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Yeah, yeah ... hint, hint .... I get the message :)

 

I've got a Roden Fokker D.VI if you want something earlier and want to be different :innocent: otherwise just a WnW's Albi D.V and a Sopwith Pup if you don't :hmmm:

 

Grant

 

And I have lots of spare decal now, left over from my two WnW builds I'll be in Hannover mid Feb and Amsterdam early March. Could easily pop them in the local post

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