xmh53wrench Posted July 26, 2012 Share Posted July 26, 2012 (edited) Ok guys, I am going to take the plunge on my "Jan" P-51D build and go for my take on a NMF. I have never used Alclad II so I have a few questions in the hopes I dont ruin my "masterpiece"......practice shmactice.... So I have been spraying a test panel with some different paints, colors, clears...here it is... The Ace Hardware Premium Chrome Aluminum looks nearly as nice as the ALC107, but hates fingers, tape and clear......(but cleared is a really nice color that may end up on the wings) I want to use Alclad II Chrome ALC107 on my Mustang's exterior where NMF is applicable. I will probably be alternating black and grey undercoats for some panel color contrasting, and I also noticed the more coats the less it has a mirror effect, but does not loose the metal look. So I will probably load it up a bit as I dont want a high polished look. (I may even try adding a bit of Aluminum ALC101 to it and spray another panel) I did notice (as you may also from the pic) that clearing certainly changes the look of these metalics. My questions: How does Alclad II Chrome ALC107: Take to having decals applied to it? Take to masking? How durable is it after cure (smudges, fingerprints, ect) I have messed around a bit with Testors 1451 Aluminum Plate Metalizer and although its great to look at right after polishing, Its not very durable, and I had problems with getting decals to adhere, and dont even think about putting a piece of masking tape anywhere near it. So that option is out. Any advice or forewarning would be greatly appreciated. Thanks guys, I truly appreciate this place! Edited July 26, 2012 by xmh53wrench Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cunumdrum61 Posted July 26, 2012 Share Posted July 26, 2012 Here's a good article about using Alclad.It will answer most of your questions.Personally I think chrome is far to bright and I would use ALC-102 Duraluminium and ALC- 105 Polished Aluminium. I have read that chrome can be fragile after application but I have never used it on a large surface to find out. http://www.swannysmodels.com/Alclad.html http://www.cybermodeler.com/hobby/tools/alclad/tool_alclad2.shtml Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scvrobeson Posted July 26, 2012 Share Posted July 26, 2012 Both Alclad Chrome and Polished Aluminum are very fragile, and usually do not like being taped over. It's because of the fine grit of the metal powder in the paint, it means that it doesn't bond as well. If you're going to do your P-51, I would do either a flat grey or black undercoat, and then either Alclad ALC-101 Aluminum or ALC-102 Duraluminum, and then tint as necessary using either Dark Aluminum or Steel. Unless you're going for an actual restored warbird P-51, there is no need for a super reflective metal surface. I have yet to find a photo of a wartime plane where you could see your face in the side. Also of note, only the fuselage of a P-51 is Natural Metal. The wings are one solid color, DuPont Aluminum, since they were puttied and sanded in the factory. Alclad does not need any clear coat before decals, and usually doesn't need much setting solution. Alclad is really easy to decal over. Hope this helps. Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xmh53wrench Posted July 27, 2012 Author Share Posted July 27, 2012 Thanks for the links cunumdrum, they were a great read. And thanks for the additional info, scvrobeson. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cunumdrum61 Posted July 27, 2012 Share Posted July 27, 2012 Thanks for the links cunumdrum, they were a great read. And thanks for the additional info, scvrobeson. Your welcome. Just one last thing: I use Tamiya gloss black lacquer in their spray can as an undercoat for Alclad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodgem37 Posted July 27, 2012 Share Posted July 27, 2012 'Both Alclad Chrome and Polished Aluminum are very fragile, and usually do not like being taped over. It's because of the fine grit of the metal powder in the paint, it means that it doesn't bond as well.' You can use Post-Its instead of tape. The adhesive is mild and won't mar the finish. 'If you're going to do your P-51, I would do either a flat grey or black' I have used flat grey as an undercoating for Alclad as well, but I also oversprayed it with a top coat. I liked the texture of Alclad over flat. With a flat base coat be sure your scratches have been polished out. For me at least, the primary reason I use a gloss base is because it fills scratches and self-levels a bit better than flat. You can always finish the Alclad with a flat. Just my 2c. Sincerely, Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xmh53wrench Posted July 28, 2012 Author Share Posted July 28, 2012 Thanks Mark, going to definitely going to try the post-it masking. And I agree with the gloss and self leveling. I am going to try flat black on my test panel. I got some ALC116 semi matte aluminum today, so I am going to try that as well. Maybe a combination of all this will give me the "look" I am going after. I also grabbed a bottle of MM Stainless Steel to use on the panels next to the exhaust on the engine cowlings. Thanks folks for all the help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xmh53wrench Posted July 28, 2012 Author Share Posted July 28, 2012 PS.....I have been searching locally (US {well not the whole US}) for Future....is the actual product still made? Or is there a seedy underground supply of the stuff that I have to know a secret handshake, be willing to travel the deep back alleys of some far away land, prepared to trade a portion of my arm for? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted July 28, 2012 Share Posted July 28, 2012 PS.....I have been searching locally (US {well not the whole US}) for Future....is the actual product still made? I think it's now called "Pledge with Future Shine" or something silly like that. Why can't they go with something simple like "Mr Floor Shiny"? Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xmh53wrench Posted July 28, 2012 Author Share Posted July 28, 2012 Thanks Kev, I believe I have seen that, but was afraid it was not the correct stuff. Well, I didnt like the ALC116, I am sure it has a use though (its very very flat, maybe could be fogged on the leading edges of props to simulate a sort-of sandblasted look). Although when I added about 25% of 116 to chrome 107 what I got was a shinier finish and bit brighter and just a hint of a reflection compared to the straight Aluminum 101. I will continue to tinker with this. I want to clear over the 116 to see if it has a nice "alum paste suspended in varnish" look for the wings. My LHS did not have the 102 Duraluminum. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted July 31, 2012 Share Posted July 31, 2012 I think it's now called "Pledge with Future Shine" or something silly like that. Why can't they go with something simple like "Mr Floor Shiny"? Kev Kev is correct. The old Future is now indeed "Pledge with Future Shine": Same manuf, same formula, and even same clear bottle, just different name: Ive been using the PwFS for my last two builds and it works the same and OG Future as well Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neo Posted July 31, 2012 Share Posted July 31, 2012 I thing i migh ad is DONT use setting solution on the Alclad Hight shine finish as indicated on the alclad site Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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