Barry Posted November 24, 2011 Share Posted November 24, 2011 AWESOME!!!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mkd1966 Posted November 30, 2011 Share Posted November 30, 2011 Thanks. At Reno this year he had another F2G flying, and it was restored to immaculate condition. I initially thought perhaps he had just repainted the red/white plane, but I inquired and he said no, the blue plane is a second F2G they just finished restoring. I took a few photos of it. Coincidentally, I think it is Steve Hinton in the second photo. I was so obsessed with the airplane I was not noticing faces.... I thought about changing plans and painting my model like the blue plane, but I don't think I will. I would have to re-finish the prop and such, and I actually think the red one is a bit more striking. She is looking awesome Bryan !!! And yes - you're correct in that second photo - that's Steve Hinton sitting down wearing the tan flightsuit... He's a super nice guy to talk to... Look forward to seeing your updates... Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miamiangler Posted November 30, 2011 Share Posted November 30, 2011 Hi Bryan, Great work on the cowling .How did you do those black pin stripeing ? Willi Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryan Posted December 1, 2011 Author Share Posted December 1, 2011 Hi Bryan, Great work on the cowling .How did you do those black pin stripeing ? Willi Just cut masks from vinyl masking material (Oramask 810) so they had the correct curve, then carefully aligned them so there was a small gap between them. Then I sprayed the lines, a section at a time. It was a PITA admittedly, but I couldn't come up with a better way of doing it. The rest of the black striping is fortunately straight lines and should be much easier. It was the cowl that had me worried, so I got that out of the way first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryan Posted December 3, 2011 Author Share Posted December 3, 2011 I made a form and I am trying to vacuum form a usable canopy. I am taking the cheap route, using the Phlatformer: http://www.phlatboyz.com/Phlatformer-Kit_p_10.html This is a particle board former that you assemble yourself. It uses heat from an electric skillet (not included) and vacuum from a Shop Vac (not included). It seems well designed and functions as it should. The problem with the vac canopy supplied in the XS Models kit is that it is made from very thin plastic and is kind of hard to polish and work with. Also, it is the wrong shape. It is too flat and does not "bulge" high enough in the region over the pilot's head. I think the canopy shape is important to the profile of the F2G, so I am doing my best to correct the problems. I used the supplied canopy to cast a basic form from auto filler, then added filler/sanded/filed/etc until the shape looked correct to me. I have tried forming 1/32 acrylic plastic, and 1/16 acrylic plastic. I much prefer the 1/16. It gives a much more rigid part, with extra thickness for sanding and polishing. It just seems much easier to work with. In a scale sense the 1/16 is too thick, but this will only be apparent at the open portion between the canopy and windscreen, so these portions can easily be sanded down for a correct appearance. My problem....BUBBLES. I have done numerous attempts and in every case the finished part has too many bubbles to be usable. From what I have read this is either due to the acrylic being extruded, or to having moisture in it. I don't really have any means to "cure" these parts....so I was wondering if any of you have any real world solutions to this bubble problem? I have read that PETG plastic works well, but I don't know if that will cure the bubble issue. You can't really see the bubbles in the picture, but there are more than enough of them to make the part unusable. Any help appreciated! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted December 3, 2011 Share Posted December 3, 2011 Bryan, while I don't doubt that your problem exists, I can't see any evidence of it in your photo. Can you point out the bubbles more specifically? Not that it matters much, as I have no solution for you in any case. Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryan Posted December 3, 2011 Author Share Posted December 3, 2011 Bryan, while I don't doubt that your problem exists, I can't see any evidence of it in your photo. Can you point out the bubbles more specifically? Not that it matters much, as I have no solution for you in any case. Kev My camera won't focus close enough for them to really show up. Interesting they don't show up in photos because they are pretty obvious. The part in the picture has 30-40 bubbles all over it. They look like little pinholes but are inside the plastic so I don't think there is any way to fix them.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hans Posted December 3, 2011 Share Posted December 3, 2011 Bryan, I have read in a book on vacforming that preheating clear plastic in an kitchen oven on a low temperature causes the mositure to evaporate. I have had the same problem with Vivak, a kind of PETG, but haven't tried this solution yet. I'll have a look tomorrow for the book in question to see if it has further details on this. You are doing an amazing job on this difficult conversion. Regards, Hans Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodgem37 Posted December 3, 2011 Share Posted December 3, 2011 Kevin, unfortuneately, they are there. Great stuff, Bryan. I only wish I could help. Sincerely, Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hans Posted December 4, 2011 Share Posted December 4, 2011 (edited) Hi Brian, I have found my copy of "Do it yourself vacuum forming for the hobbyist" by Douglas E. Walsh on the bookshelf. The cause of the problem seems to be not so much moisture trapped in or on the plastic but a polished mold. Quoting mr. Walsh : "If you are making clear parts, resist the temptation to polish your mould to perfection. This will almost always cause the hot plastic to seal off and trap large air pockets against the surface. It's better to use 400 or 600 grit sandpaper or steel wool to scuff it up slightly and provide tiny air channels. This lets the air pockets bleed down yet still results in a clear part" Hope this helps solving the problem. Hans Edited December 4, 2011 by Hans Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loic Posted December 4, 2011 Share Posted December 4, 2011 Most interesting tip I think Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryan Posted December 4, 2011 Author Share Posted December 4, 2011 Success! The bubble problem must have indeed been related to moisture in the acrylic. I baked the sheet over night in the kitchen oven at 175 degrees, then tried to form another canopy this morning. I don't know if the lack of bubbles in this photo is any more visible than the bubbles were in the first photo, but there is not a bubble in sight! Thanks to all for the suggestions! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loic Posted December 4, 2011 Share Posted December 4, 2011 Well done Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hans Posted December 4, 2011 Share Posted December 4, 2011 Bryan, Good to see you have succeeded! Hans Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zerosystem Posted December 5, 2011 Share Posted December 5, 2011 Bryan, any interest in making a few others for sale for any others who might be unhappy with the shape in the kit canopy? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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