A.Wolf Grant Posted June 9, 2012 Share Posted June 9, 2012 Nice. I'm thoroughly enjoying this! Grant Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted June 9, 2012 Share Posted June 9, 2012 Nice. I'm thoroughly enjoying this! Grant DITTO !..........Harv Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marek Posted June 9, 2012 Share Posted June 9, 2012 Oh man! Very nice build. Atlast I here that Aires wheel wells went easely, and there are fantastic looking too. Keep up a great modeling work. I´ll be watching. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anthony in NZ Posted June 10, 2012 Author Share Posted June 10, 2012 Thanks Gents, I hope it is some use if you ever build a Skyhawk. Finished the nose profile and am working on the nose gear bay Cheers Anthony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marek Posted June 10, 2012 Share Posted June 10, 2012 Hi Anthony! As I sead before this is a great build. I can´t wait fore more to come. One question thow.You are usig this Mr Surfacer 1200. Are you deluting it with something, ore are you using it right from the botle? If one have tu dekute it what one should use? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted June 10, 2012 Share Posted June 10, 2012 One question thow.You are usig this Mr Surfacer 1200. Are you deluting it with something, ore are you using it right from the botle? If one have tu dekute it what one should use? I'm not Anthony, but I am an avid Mr Surfacer user. If you don't want to airbrush it, it's available in a spray can, and goes down very nicely. I wouldn't use it for small areas though. For airbrushing, you absolutely have to thin it. After all, it's designed as a liquid putty, so is naturally thick. The best thing to thin it with is one of the Mr Color Thinners (either levelling or not). You can thin it with some brands of hardware lacquer thinners, but no two seem to be created alike, and if your local brand isn't compatible (like mine), then normal thinning ratios produce loads of 'spider webs' (which is a bizarre sight to see). In order to alleviate that problem, you have to thin it so much that it becomes effectively useless as a primer. So, go with Mr Color Thinners if you can, and be prepared for a bit of a mess otherwise. Kev Greg W 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allok Posted June 11, 2012 Share Posted June 11, 2012 (edited) wow ....my pics dont to it justice. I seriously beg to differ. Can't wait to see the finished product. Edited June 11, 2012 by Allok Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anthony in NZ Posted June 11, 2012 Author Share Posted June 11, 2012 Hey Keith, long time no hear mate....good to have you back!!! Hi Marek Thanks for the question. Kev has answered pretty well....cheers. However I have never brought it in the aerosol can. I have the Mr Surfacer 500, 1000 & 1200 all in the bottle. I brush the 500 & 1000 depending on the ammount of gap filling. Generally I use superglue to fill as it dosent shrink and then finish off with Mr Surfacer brushed on and then thinned and sprayed to finish. I have had no trouble with spraying it, here is what I do. Drop the compressor down to 15-18 psi and thin Mr Surfacer with an Arrylic lacquer or GP thinner from an automotive paint store. AAA thinner (as it is called here) aparently works best as it takes a milli-second slower to evaporate and helps leave a silky smooth finish....I have found all of the lacquer or GP (general purpose) thinners work well with pressure/thinning control. I spray with the 1200 and thinned approx 50/50 (rough guess but thinner will take longer to build up and leave a smoother finish). Extra thin on very low pressure is great for very fine details like Aires resin sets. Even with an excellent AAA thinner I have had it spiderweb. This is easily fixed by thinning and dropping pressure. I cant think the last time Mr Surfacer or Color spiderwebbed on me simply because I thin so heavily. I know it sounds contradictory to thin Mr Surfacer so much, but I like the smooth finish it leaves, I can brush some more in the areas that may need it and sand/buff it all back and you cant tell. Another reason I like it as a primer is it finishes beautifully glass like with 0000 steel wool that furniture polishers use and Mr Color likes to stick to it as well. I hope this helps Please ask if I have not been very clear........oh and by the way, I am LOVING your Tomcat build!!!!!! Cheers Anthony Greg W 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cat_baloo Posted June 11, 2012 Share Posted June 11, 2012 Lovely job so far, Anthony. I'm taking notes on the airframe mods in particular! There's a Hasegawa 32nd in my stash awaiting the treatment. On a side note, purely info purposes in response to previous queries, I've been drawing up hard copy drafts of the Kahu 'pit. Have the bit between the teeth, to see this set done and dusted, after kicking my heels in the dust for way too long. Short of taking a tape measure to the museum bird I'm sorting out dimensions for the HUD and main panel. Once I have the outline I'm translating it into a PE set, in 1/32nd and 1/48th. Also working out a TA-4K set. Can't let the "T-Bird" go without some lurv. Meanwhile, I must doff chapeau on the excellent work, wheel wells and Escapac. Regards all Ross Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marek Posted June 11, 2012 Share Posted June 11, 2012 Thank you Kev an Anthony for answering so well my question. I have Mr. Surficer 500, 1000 and 1200 at home and I´ll give them a try. I like your build Anthony so I´ll watching it to the and. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anthony in NZ Posted June 11, 2012 Author Share Posted June 11, 2012 Thanks guys, really appreciate the feedback and glad I could shed some light on how I use Mr Surfacer. Ross, I have detailed all the dimensions of the HUD and main panel that I measured up at RNZAF base Woodbourne. I will scan and put up here in case anyone else will find them useful. I am interested in your idea of the etch.......if I can at all help then please let me know! Cheers and thanks again gents Anthony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cat_baloo Posted June 11, 2012 Share Posted June 11, 2012 Anthony, you're a legend! That would fill in the blanks perfect. Check me out at scap.design(at)xtra.co.nz Website's still a WIP though I've included my F-80C PE 'build' in Hangar 48. http://www.r-mcarthur.wix.com/717squadron#!__scap-design Awesome news. Looking forward to getting this set done. Regards Ross Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anthony in NZ Posted June 12, 2012 Author Share Posted June 12, 2012 (edited) Great site Ross, thanks for the link and I would LOVE the 'Kahu' panel etc in etch. Your F-80 panel looks awesome! Please excuse my terrible sketches as they were done in the late 90's whilst balancing on work stands etc. I have more but I want to confirm they are A-4K inst panel not TA-4K inst panel and combing as they are a little different.......all the best deciphering and some photos I took at RNZAF base Ohakea thanks to Phil (NZ Gunnie on this forum who allowed me access back in the days when we had a strike force!) And a couple of special ones from the Kahu IPM from Phil.....Phil, I am happy to remove these 2 if you would prefer Hope this is of help to those wanting to build a Kahu Skyhawk Harold....reckon you can make a resin HUD????? Cheers Anthony Edited June 12, 2012 by Anthony in NZ Greg W and Whitey 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cat_baloo Posted June 12, 2012 Share Posted June 12, 2012 Can't believe that, Anthony. Lookit at all those pics!! Simply awesome. I've tracked down some news vids posted on youtube, taking screenshots here 'n there. But your close-ups are pure gold. Now I see the geometry of the HUD housing it makes sense. Very intriguing look of the lens glass. Would need almost a "double-glazing" effect to recreate! Fantastic news. Pretty much leaves me without any exuses now. :-) Kind regards Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kagemusha Posted June 12, 2012 Share Posted June 12, 2012 Great pictures Anthony, thanks for posting, did you see if the Aires u/c set would maybe fit the Hasegawa kit, I know it's molded on etc., and Ross if you make some etch for the upgraded Kahu I'd like to buy a couple of sets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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