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frankc

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Everything posted by frankc

  1. Hey Mark, I found your post a few weeks back and was very curious to see what you would come up with because I too was working on this problem.. Like you, I wanted to work in plastic first but I couldn't figure a way to make a really thin tube of the diameter I needed. I had an idea about heat stretching over a mandrel - but I just couldn't get it to work. The other (and possibly easier) option was to turn the tubes out of brass. But the result needs to be very thin - Im not an expert machinist and that's hard to do for something as large as this is.. So I decided to make them from a sheet of brass I think you ran into some of the same issues I did. One of the most annoying was all kinds of conflicting info about the size of the launchers (length wise). Based on taking ratios of good photos and checking nebelwerfer 42 specifications I decided the launchers were slightly larger (about the same length) as the rockets (just over 3 feet long). I think you will find your launchers match certain drawings - but your rockets won't fit in them right because they are too long! Anyway - If you are interested I have made rockets and launchers for a build I am working on (a Me-109 G) so perhaps you might be interested in how I did it? I saw the Lion's roar rockets! They look pretty nice - I decided to make my own though as you can only see the tip and the end. Here are the finished rockets If you want to see more here is the whole story http://s362974870.onlinehome.us/forums/air/index.php?showtopic=233944
  2. Looks good Phil I did essentially the same thing to the Zvezda 1/48 kit to make it an F-4 (rather than the F-2 it's supposed to be) looks real good so far! Frank
  3. Hey Nick, I'm very glad to hear that my 109E blog was helpful to your build! I cringe when I see people post thier thoughts on how bad that Eduard kit is - that's just wrong. Great kit- just needs a little modeling done to make it better - Which I'm glad to hear others are not afraid to do. The pics aren't gone for good. This model will be a future Tamiya Modeling International feature. I did finish the kit. I entered it in the US IPMS Nationals held this past August. This is the only photo of the finished model I have to show until The Tamiya Mag article comes out.. http://ipmsusa.org/Nats2010/winners/phoeni...nners/139_2.jpg Thanks again for the kind words Best Regards, Frank
  4. I have some updated photos for the build incase anyone is interested. I decided to use the Master Models guns - awesome product! I was intially incorrect - the gear angle is offset 95 degrees not 90 so I fixed that - like the result much better! Did some updates on the pit -pretty close to the paint phase - should be mostly downhill from there. (full blog can be found here) http://www.arcforums.com/forums/air/index....p;#entry2072832 Thanks for looking Frank
  5. Hey Mark, thanks for the comments! In this case, the wing is a single panel. I discuss that some in the link over in the full article on ARC. Basically Mansur Mustafin discovered that the 109F-2 series had a single panel for the top of each wing. This panel isn't broken up into smaller panels. It's one large peice of aluminium! I have no idea why they did this - but they changed pretty quickly to the paneled construction which is shown in G2s for sure. I have been checking my photos and I find more and more evidence that seems to indicate the 109F-2 wings didn't have panel lines on them. Over on HS there is some speculation that the elevator stabs might have been puttied - but I don't know. Interesting trivia for sure Regards, Frank
  6. Hey Phil, you're doing great work! I love the solution you have used to fix the tail issue - that's a very good approach and simple(I love simple)! However, I noticed something that started in the magnificent photos of the IP - certainly not about your work - which is fantastic , but about the kit. It highlights a very serious shape issue with this kit that is very noticable unfortunately.. The shape of the fuselage around the IP is wrong - it needs to be less round - flatter on the top. EDIT - maybe it's the angle of the photos, but im thinking the gun ports need to be up closer to the top of the cowling - and are somewhat longer (but that's not such a big deal). Is the cowling square as you move back? The side shots of the cowling seem to show some wierd looking things that are very noticable. But maybe this is just the angle? I sure hope it's just something about the viewing angle because if it's not, wow that's bad.. I hadn't noticed this issue with this thing in the box. Your beautiful photos and complete coverage has unmasked it. I knew this kit was arguably inaccurate as a 109F (no biggie there), but hoped it could be used as a basis for a decent G-2 kit. Im interested to see how it fairs there.. Regards, Frank
  7. I have started work on converting the new Hasegawa Bf 109F-4 kit into the F-2 variant. Here are some shots of the work I have done so far - fantastic kit. I think Hasegawa has hit a home run with this one! The entire build will be found here as it's much easier for me to keep track of it if it's just in one place (I hope that's OK) http://www.arcforums.com/forums/air/index....howtopic=216901 thanks for looking Regards, Frank
  8. wow -that looks awesome! fantastic job there Jerry! Frank
  9. Yep - there aren't any sidewall vents on the F. It's vent is located in the front windscreen (its a wing window on the left side). The layout is basically the same, but over on the right side there is a map case and the oxygen regular controls are set up differently. Also - the F has a different seat and the canopy sill is rectangular. It's little stuff in a dark deep pit so most people won't notice any difference. Some even more obscure changes with the IP and even the gun cover. Regards, Frank
  10. Since building consists of sticking plastic parts together using glue I'm sure you'll succeed. Seeing as there is a box full of plastic there and you probably have some glue If you're interested in reviewing the kit in any sort of historical / accuracy context , I would suggest that this kit isn't two far off base for an early 109G2, and has obvious issues if you chose to build it as an F-4 (Actually will result in something similar to building the hasegawa 109G-4 and sticking F-4 decals on it). If you are not looking for tha kind of input - nevermind . I too am interested in to see how this model looks completed. Regards, Frank
  11. I built my own conversion before either Aires or the G-4 kit came out. I know what it takes to do that - while it's not "hard" it's certianly not "simple" nor strightforward. But a new F kit isn't the main thing I'm excited about. What really excites me about this new F kit from hasegawa is that they retooled the fuselage and appear to have fixed a significant shape issue that exists in all versions of the 1/32 kit! So this causes me to ponder converting F kits in to Gs (including g5/6)series as - the conversion to the G is much much simplier than the G to the F.. I'm very much looking forward to a kit I can toss together and paint with ease and will FINALLY have the correct nose profile! I'll start with an F but I'm pretty sure I won't stop there! RELEASE THE HOUNDS! Regards, Frank
  12. Thor, that looks great so far! What color did you use for the interior color?
  13. WOW - fantastic painting. I love the weathering effects - very very nice work! Regards, --Frank
  14. El - congrats on finishing- it's gorgeous! I will most certainly be using your build as a reference as I progress in my own. Regards, --Frank
  15. Hey Steve! If you are who I think you are, I believe I have actually seen that P-51 (at a regoinal show in Ft Collins last year?) I was going to post that I had seen one built and it looked really nice. Regards --Frank Crenshaw
  16. It really depends on how adveturous you are, and how well the Hobbycraft kit will mate to the existing D kits. The P-51 B had it's wing lowered by a few inches (to accomidate the RR Merlin). And the scoop for the radiator is clearly different. The lowered wing is why they installed the wooden floorboard. Thus a P-51A will have the lower wing as the pit floor, a B and up will have a plywood floor.. But, if one of the 1/32 scale D kits is about the same width - you could graft the B spine onto the D fuselage and use the Hobbycraft wing to get a B. It might be more work than it's worth - but that would work (if the parts cooperate). There would be some extra effort required to make the wing fit (ect) but it might be possible. If the kits cooperate, it might actually be easy. It just depends on how closely the D and B spines match up. The pit layout is different as well, but if you have gone this far that probably won't be a real big concern for you. Regards, --Frank
  17. Brian, WOW that's an amazing effort so far.
  18. Beautiful work on the pit and the wire detail is very cool. Love it so far
  19. Jerry, that looks great! That combination of extra detail plus the Eduard etch looks just stunning. Where did you get brass barrels for this kit? Regards, --Frank
  20. That looks super nice Jay Thats a real stunner. --Frank
  21. El Maraichi , Looking great - I can't wait to see the gear together.
  22. Just amazing! It's really cool to be able to watch you complete and finish the model. This was truely an an amazing model. Regard, --Frank
  23. I am actually surprised that Hasegawa didn't follow up on thier wildly successful "109's with bumps" series. I believe an F and an E would be a very good sellers for them.
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