Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About jgreiner

  • Birthday 03/18/1964

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Wausau, WI.

Recent Profile Visitors

538 profile views
  1. Hey gunpowder, Mike West of Lone Star Models (USA) makes a wingtip pod for this. $6 USD and here's the link (scroll about 1/2 way down the page) http://www.lonestarmodels.com/Conversions-1-32.html Best... John
  2. "Pledge with Future Shine" is what it's now labelled on the bottle. Basically the same 'ol good stuff but I do believe that it's EVER SO slightly "thinner" than the older stuff. Absolutely NO need to thin it with anything.......whether you airbrush or hand brush the stuff on. Still one of the best products out there IMHO! John
  3. Kevin, I think it looks great! The ONLY (and I looked hard!) place I can see any "fuzzy" demarcation is maybe on the left wing. Other than that (and it's very minimal......not noticeable unless someone specifically looks for it), keep pluggin' away! John
  4. From the bottle (acrylic), thinned with Tamiya acrylic thinner about 50/50 ratio. I've been doing this on all of my Polished Aluminum (any polished or shiny) jobs for years now (at least 10) and have yet to experience any cracking that some people swear will happen. Maybe I've been lucky, but until I experience something bad, I'm going to keep riding that horse. Here's a pic of a 1/48 Academy P-47N I did (at least 10 yrs ago) using Tamiya acrylic (bottle) gloss black as my primer for the Alclad Polished Aluminum. John
  5. Most definitely it'll work, Bud. I've always used Tamiya Acrylic Gloss Black as my primer for "Polished Aluminum" and "Chrome" shades of Alclad. Let me know if you'd like some pics. I think I could dig some up. Best.... John
  6. Frank, another option if you choose to explore! http://www.lonestarmodels.com/Conversions-1-32.html About 1/2 way down the page.... Best.... John
  7. If the price isn't outrageous, I'll probably pick one up. As to the accuracy or some things being 1-2 mm. off. Isn't going to keep me from sleeping like a baby at night. Someone please point out to me which 1/32 (or 1/48, for that matter) kit is perfect. John
  8. Brian, it looks like McComas' plane is actually an F6-C. Interesting! Great scheme too. I've always loved those lightning bolt paint jobs! John
  9. Glad to hear things have worked out, Kevin! I know you're in Australia, but (for future reference) I've had great experience with Coast Airbrush Company here in the States. http://www.coastairbrush.com/ Especially nice is you can call them and actually talk to a human being! Something of a rarity these days. John
  10. Pretty darn cool. Been about 8 yrs. since I've been there. MUST go again soon.... Need a fix! Thanks much! John
  11. Thanks for the info. and Ian.......e-mail sent! John
  12. Thanks Dude! Yup, pretty much what I'm doing as well..... Scouring the interwebs and have managed to find some info. Haven't checked out the Kagero book (yet,,,,which one, btw?).. I assume you used the Ad Astra masks for the fuselage codes? Think they'd make another set?! John
  13. I'm going to be blatantly honest here.... I've built the Hasegawa bubbletop and enjoyed it very much. It's a very nice kit. I also have the Trump. razorback in the stash and have seen it built up (in person). To my eyes, it looked fantastic. Please realize that I am NOT one of these modelers who measures things and if it's a couple of millemeters off, I personally do not consider it a fatal/catastrophic flaw and unbuildable. Having said that, let's take price into consideration.... For the price of a Hasegawa bubbletop AND the resin conversion, I'd guess the price would be a lot higher than the Trumpeter kit alone. As someone who has over 350 unbuilt kits in my stash and being 48 yrs. old with a yearly build average of about 12-15 kits, I'm going to have to continue my current building pace without buying one more kit (yeah....right!!) and I'd finish my pile at the approximate age of 78. God willing, I'll do exactly that, but in my opinion, I'm going to build the kits I now have and enjoy the hell out of them, without beating myself up over a few mm. inaccuracy. This is in NO way, shape or form telling Derek (or anyone else) they shouldn't do a conversion! I'm quite sure they would sell, but as Radu pointed out......just how much time, energy, money and work do you want to put into it........and make a profit? If making a profit isn't a concern......go for it! I just don't know if there would be enough builders out here who would be willing to spend the extra money. While I'd love to see someone do it, I have to admit that I most likely would not purchase one. I ask everyone please take my post the way I've intended......just my measly opinion and as I often say: "Your mileage may vary". John
  14. I LOVE LOVE LOVE that!!! Could you please share where you got documentation/refs. for this? I'd really like to do my 111 in a scheme like this. Fantastic job! John
  15. Congrats, Tony! That thing looks great! I do think you hold some sort of record for taking 3 yrs. to finish the dang thing though!! LOL!!! See you in 2015. John
  • Create New...