Fooesboy reacted to cbk57 in DeAgostini Millennium Falcon 1/1 scale, updated 9/25
Oh it is confusing. I was doing some more digging because actually I am almost done with it and am trying to figure out the weathering. The internals would not fit in the real thing if it were real. The engines did not exist on film until The last Jedi and other than blue light did not show in earlier movies. The movie sets and the prop are substantialy different. The original model from A New Hope is a lot more detailed and was 5 feet across.
Life is a lot easier when dealing with modeling reality. It is harder in it's own way. You have more freedom in some ways with Science Fiction but you have new complexities also. That is the problem when you are not dealing with reality but a movie and whether you are replicating a prop, or a set or some other thing. I am only scratching the surface of this insanity. My son is far more fanatical about Star Wars than I understands the various concepts of what is cannon and what is not as far as official stories and so on.
Finally keep in mind there is no "official Mellinium Falcon" it is a composite of what we think it was and the various states it existed in movies from Prop, to Set to CGI.
Fooesboy reacted to monthebiff in 1/12 Tamiya Honda RC213V Casey Stoner test Motegi 2015
A little more progress on this project with all of the fairings/aero stuff painted and decaled.
The decals performed flawlessly and settled down really well. Really nice colour density and no silvering. They need sealing in and then a matte coat misting over.
Fooesboy reacted to cbk57 in DeAgostini Millennium Falcon 1/1 scale, updated 9/25
Starting this weekend I am reviving this thread, I have been photographing all the way and she is almost done. So this will become a fast foreword build thread. I hope you enjoy and am bumping this up so I can quickly find the thread and hopefully tonight I will start getting photos up.
Fooesboy reacted to chrish in Tamiya 1:12 Yamaha YZF-R1M
I started this 2 days ago and like a good book, I couldn't put it down! This is my first bike model but definitely not my last (Tamiya) bike!
This is Tamiya's 1:12 Yamaha YZF-R1M. It's out of the box with the only "improvement" being drilling out the brake rotor vents.
Definitely a recommended kit.
There are a few WIP pics on my computer but I only put these ones on tonight. It's painted with Tamiya and Vallejo acrylics and Tamiya and Alclad lacquers.
Thanks for looking
Fooesboy reacted to chrish in Tamiya 1:12 Yamaha YZF-R1M
Completed. Like every Tamiya kit the fit is impeccable, I had a bit of trouble (nothing new for me) with the decals but after using Micro set/sol, Mr. Mark set, Solvaset with no real effect, I remembered I had Tamiya mark fit "strong"...well, these being Tamiya decals and Tamiya mark fit I gave that a go and it worked...some Tamiya magic in there I guess.
Thanks for looking
Fooesboy reacted to Pascal in Ferrari 250 Bertone GT, scale 1/18
And finally, the update of today :
I applied a lot of putty to the F-40's, while the putty is hardening I did some work on this 250 Bertone.
The way this model is designed, the windows are never gonna fit properly : you have to glue a PE border to the clear plastic and glue that to the body. No way this is gonna give a good result.
So after much head scratching I came up with a solution that might work : I'll use a 2 x 2 mm plastic H-profile that I will glue to the body. This will replace the PE border and give the clear plastic something to fit into (at least that's the theory) :
I started by removing the resin A-pilar :
And replaced this with a strip of brass :
Made a trench in the inside of the body so that it can be fixed securely :
Dryfit with the side windows, yes we might be on to something :
I'll keep the PE border for the side windows, the H-profile will be used for the windscreen and rear window, dryfit :
It will take a lot of work to carve a little ledge in the resin for the H-profile to be glued to. This ledge has to be about 0,5 mm wider then the H-profile because I'm thinking of gluing a 0,5 mm black cable on the outside of the H-profile. We'll see if that works.
Did some work on the interior, a couple more parts and this will be done :
I made it as strong as possible so I can be pressed into the body, dryfit :
Looking pretty good :
Fooesboy reacted to Juggernut in 1/32 Meng Dr. I sprue photos - close ups. Very photo heavy
Ok, we know what the sprues look like overall and in some cases, I think we have some detail shots. This is primarily for those who may be interested and those who have not yet acquired the kit. I have taken photos of all the plastic sprues in the kit and selected detail shots of most of the plastic parts on those sprues. I am not that knowledgeable about the WWI/Dr.I/F.1 so I'll let the photos speak for themselves and you all can discuss the finer points of what you see in these photos. Without further adoo......
Above: Middle wing underside...rib stitching is not concave as I remember seeing in the Roden kit.
Note the ejector pin marks in the above image...I don't think these will present a problem.
Dr. I horizontal tail
Dr. I rudder
Dr. I wheels
I think the following images are for the F.I (sprue F)
I think this is a Dr. I sprue (below)
Last but not least, the clear parts
Fooesboy reacted to The Madhatter in Zvezda Star Destroyer - a new detailing project
Hello once again everyone. It's been few months since this was last updated and sorry to say, I haven't done as much as you might hope I had, but I have finished off the top section - well, mostly. I still have the SMD's to add for the trench spot lighting but in regards to detailing, that's all done
So here is the top section shown as finished. I added some of the bits that sort of frame some of the lines to balance it out. You'll catch my drift if you look at the last picture in the previous update and look to the left of the ship and you can see some chips that run down the mid-section in a line toward the front. They have been replicated on the other side to make it right.
That was a lot of explaining for something so trivial, so I shall move on and let the pics do the talking:
Its pretty much the same on the other side. I might yet bulk some of the rear section out some more but I need to see how the side walls go on first. I do need to sort out that section at the very back of the ship - looking at these reminded me about it
The bottom hull has also been started. I made the very foolish mistake of gluing the nose to the body in a hurry to install the hangar bay. This in hindsight was very silly. I has also located glue marks and other blemishes on there and I am not happy about it. I do not know when or how they got there but I also realised I forgot to grind down the old hangar surrounds and it has created a gap where there shouldn't be and now I have to fix and live with my decision to install when I did.
Still, none of this is unfix-able and I will fix it as much as I can accordingly. I just wish I hadn't created this unnecessary work for myself is all
Well, that's all I have for now, but I will be back again soon enough. As always, thanks for stopping in and having a look
Fooesboy reacted to Bstarr3 in Tamiya 1/48 F-14A, Trans-sonic with vapor cone
I started a WIP thread on this one, but ran out of initiative to keep up with posting photos. First a couple shots of the finished kit. Mission Models paint and kit decals for VF-84 CAG. Modified to be displayed in flight.
Then the magic part: chicken wire and cotton wool to build a vapor cone as the ship transits the sound barrier. It doesn't look exactly like the reference photos, but I'm really pleased with how it came out! Comments and criticisms welcome. Thanks for looking!
Fooesboy reacted to airscale in 1/18 Focke-Wulf Fw190C V18 'Känguruh'
..thanks for the vote of confidence on the RLM66 colour - I will stick with this one
Some Fw190 bobbins for your entertainment..
..I painted the layers of PE for the instrument panel – there is a backplate (not shown), a layer with just the bezel surrounds and the blanked instrument in black, and the detail layer in RLM66..
The lower panel has some colour coding (thanks Roger) for the instruments that are on their way and should be here next week..
..also made the ‘Ausgleichsgefäss’ that sits under the main panel from many punched discs (the 3D print didn’t really work..)
..and the artificial horizon, now just awaiting instruments & placard decals…
..while waiting I have been readying all the PE I will need for the gear wells and a load of other bits – using lots of pictures like this to map it all out..
Notice the dimples and the raised ribbed panel next to them..
..after many hours of work, here you can see the mainspar, wheelwell roof and some of the wing ribs printed out, stuck to litho and being test fitted..
..I wanted to start with the roof as these won’t be PE anyway, the drawings are just to give me working templates..
..here printed, stuck to a sheet of Perspex and all the centres of all the dimples being marked..
..and my first ever use of my new mini Proxxon milling machine to machine the depressions..
..added the sidewalls and some filler to fair them in as the pressing is curved at the sides and primed to make sure all was well..
..starting to work annealed litho into the female mould… the completed one you can see at the front is the first version I did in a video episode on my Patreon build after which I realised I had made the depressions too big (& therefore the dimples..)
..re-adding a template so I can see the panel outline and start cutting it to shape..
..and the completed parts…
..the ribbed panel was approached in a similar way, just reversed so instead of dimples it makes raised strengthening ribs..
..sticking templates down to mark out where the ribs go..
..ribs added and a wash of thin CA..
..cleaned up, rounded edges and primed..
..litho being worked into shape..
..and the finished panels with the rivets etc added..
..a day’s work…
..and checking for fit..
..happy with how they turned out, and don’t forget, if you want to see how parts like this are made and join me in the ups and downs of this build, please join my Patreon
Fooesboy reacted to Thunnus in 1/32 Hasegawa N1K2-J Shiden Kai 343-45
Happy 4th of July everyone! We are just going to hunker down and have a quiet celebration at home... seems fitting with what's going on at the moment and gives me some more modeling time.
Here is the Type 98 gun sight with all of the bits added on and painted.
Fooesboy reacted to seiran01 in Double Fokker D.VII Build... = Fokker D.XIV?
It’s not much to show, but it’s a start!!
Aviattic’s four colour lozenge sheet for the OAW (ATT32166), I was able to get the first few decals on before calling it a night. All I’ve done to simulate oil staining in the fabric is very lightly airbrush Mr Paint’s Rubber along the bottom edges, straight over the Tamiya primer.
Fooesboy reacted to airscale in 1/18 P51C Mustang "Lopes Hope the 3rd"
Eric from Aircorps Aviation who restored the real Lopes Hope 3rd has been in touch asking for some pictures for the current owner – I thought as I had them, I might share them as I haven’t done an RFI post
It’s not actually finished yet as I am waiting for the display case to be built so it can go in there dust free and safe, but there are only a few things to do like aerials, fix the canopy parts properly & detail them, and the drop tanks & mounts
The final pic is with a US aircraft compass to give a sense of scale
Fooesboy reacted to Robthepom in Meng 1/35 D9R Bulldozer
Thanks for the kind words, not sure about 'show winner' but i'll take my time and enjoy the process
Primer time MrSufracer 1500
I have not done chipping before but i hope to layer the paints and give it a go
4. Cat Yellow on the running gear and blade, hemp for the main cabin, so its a made up scheme.
What could possibly go wrong haha (been watching Youtube, so now I,m an expert)
Getting the Cat yellow is very tricky, just adding a drop too much orange really ruins the tone
Fooesboy reacted to Anthony in NZ in 75 Sqn RNZAF Mosquito Detailed Build
Ok the nose gun bay is pretty much finished.
I re-did the screw attachments for the screws around the edge of the allu cap (these screw the cap to the wooden structure and frame inside the edge of the nose) as I felt they were too big the first time I did them, si I filled them with CA and redid them a better size and the correct number. In reality there are more flush head rivets....but lets be honest, they are barely seen looking even in real life so I decided not to add them all for fear it will start looking like it had once been used as a pin cushion. Balance is the key me thinks.
All of Roberts gun bay is now in and I just have one or 2 tiny additions to add once Air freight is opened up to NZ again. HGW are kindly sending me the numbers 1 & 4 which I messed up and I am waiting on suitable tiny chains to arrive to complete the suite. But its pretty much finished until I can sort these items.
All the wiring for the lamp, terminal blocks and suppresser box were scratchbuilt and wired in G45 camera fitted along with ammo feed chutes etc. A couple of pneumatic lines for the firing solenoids need adding, but waiting for suitable chain until I pop these last couple in. Wolf, notice the 2 wing heads are lock wired together. Looking at photo's though they were done on some airframes and not others...so take your pick.
Anyway, hope this is interesting to those interested in the Mosquito
Fooesboy reacted to Alex in A6M2b Zero - Attack on Pearl Harbor - 1/32 Tamiya
This is by far the most complete/complex model kit I've ever seen, and the polar opposite of the approximate fit / approximate instructions Special Hobby Ki-27 "Nate" that I just finished.
This large box:
Contains six large and another half-dozen small sprues of parts:
And a bunch of ancillary parts and pieces:
I bought the Eduard canopy masks for it because the Tamiya-supplied ones are just printed on a sheet of tape - you have to cut them out on the printed lines. I figure that I'll use the die-cut Eduard ones on the outside of the canopy and then cut the Tamiya sheet just a hair small and use it to mask the inside. The kit also includes a bunch of features that I don't particularly want - landing gear that retract, movable control surfaces, etc, with elaborate spring systems to help move the gear. I am going to build these per the instructions, because I suspect that any deviation might make it difficult to get the parts attached strongly and in the right alignment. Then I'll glue them in place at the end of the process.
This is an intimidating subject to approach - the Zero is such a cult airplane, and there has been SO much research done on it that it's effectively impossible to build it as "right" as someone out there has figured out how to do. Even with the impressive level of detail that this kit embodies, there are pages-long articles on how to fix its many minuscule errors, as well as a very impressive writeup on LSP about how to rework this kit as a Nakajima- rather than Mitsubishi-built Zero. I'm not saying this one will be strictly OOB, but I'll restrict myself I think to adding things in the cockpit that are missing like wires and conduit.
While I plan to paint on all of the national and unit insignia, the kit also has an extremely complete set of stencil decals that should really help the wow factor of the final product.
The quality and detail in the moldings is beyond anything I have ever seen in another kit. I tried to capture this in the shot below - the super-fine rivet lines that follow all of the internal ribs (which the truly obsessive tend to hand-apply in other kits) are molded in. Also, the plastic is impressively thin and super-crisp - no sign of obvious out-of-scale thick edges to parts.
The kit provides seven (!) schemes to choose from, all planes from the carrier groups that attacked Pearl Harbor. The scheme on the box lid, a plane from Akagi, looks too much like the Nate I just built with the horizontal yellow stripes on the tail. I'm leading towards scheme D (lower left) flown by a Lt. Iida from the Soryu. I'll need to whip up the right shade of blue; based on the color of the decals they supplied, the KLM Blue enamel I already have, with just a touch of Royal Blue added, should do the trick.
The kit instructions actually have you assemble the fuselage sides together first since, like the Hasegawa Shiden-Kai that a couple of folks are building now, the cockpit assembly can be inserted from below into the finished fuselage. I'm cleaning up cockpit parts and getting ready for some painting, but am not going to go too far down the road of assembly yet. I ordered a copy of the Aero Detail book on the Zero, and I want to wait until it arrives to figure out what I want to do vis a vis adding plumbing detail to the cockpit.
Fooesboy reacted to Warbird Kid in Pacific Dogfight (Corsair vs Dinah) 1/144th Scale
So the reason I got into 1/144th scale aircraft is definitely, with out a doubt, my father's fault. I enjoyed viewing his builds that were (thankfully)safely tucked away behind glass from my destructive hands when I was a kid, and that lead him to building a fleet of planes for me to play with when I was younger. In the early 80's he created a series of 1/144th dioramas that were built on cut, clear Plexiglass bases and rods. There was the Apache B-25
My Grandfather's B-24, Zero, and P-38. (Sorry for the bad photos)
And I even took one of the leftover clear bases and made one myself, with a modified Revell P-51B, converted into an A Model, and a A6M2 being shot down. (I went with a different idea for the smoke.)
And then there was the Corsair vs Dinah. Another diorama similar to all the others, and I'm ashamed to say I can't find an original picture of it. Anyways a few yers ago the diorama was being transported from a show and wouldn't you know it, it broke. So it stayed that way for about a year or so, the planes were just fine, but the Plexiglass base and rods were busted. So I set about creating a new base for these two planes from my childhood to live on.
I figured a more substantial, traditional base would work well for what I envisioned. I wanted to create a forced-perspective diorama, with the two aircraft flying over an island, somewhere in the Pacific. It was fairly straight-forward to make and I kick myself for not documenting the entire process for you guys. I first started with a basic base you can get at any hobby or craft store. From there I looked at some pictures of Pacific Islands until I found one I liked. (I wasn't trying to be too accurate to any specific battle since the Corsair is painted in inaccurate markings with early pre-war stars. I can't blame my Dad, it was the 80s!)
So after finding an island I liked I went about recreating it, Or at least as close as I liked. I started by going into my scrap plastic box of sheet styrene. From there I found triangles of all sizes and shapes and some rectangles, and started gluing. No real laid out thought or plan, just the basic shape in mind. Once a lot of plastic and glue was laid down, I used clippers to cut and shape the island just a little bit. At which point I used the remaining putty I had to fill in all the valleys and area of the island to give it a real three dimensional shape. I didn't worry about sanding really, as these rough sections would help create the rocky areas. After drying, I shot the whole thing with filler primer and let it dry. After-which I then started putting down the paints. The water started as a medium blue to just coat the area, and a basic green for the island. I started then layering the paints on both sections, dark colors for deeper / darker areas, and lighter paints for lighter areas. I made sure to thin down my colors so they would be nice manageable. After multiple layers, I put a clear gloss coat on the water, and little white caps. For the island I dived into the foliage box and found some Woodland Scenics Foliage Medium Green which was more of a connected sheet of foliage, and not just loose powder. This made cutting and gluing sections super easy. I also used some darker foliage to break up the overall terrain of the island. I then used some shades of grey, tan, and white to create the rocky cliff areas.
I used some clear rods to use on the planes that seemed to work just fine. The last thing I wanted to do was to replace the clear disks (now yellowed) my dad had made over 40 years ago! Since I had some prop blurs, I began the task of building a new hub / ring for the Corsair, and just glued the other props onto the Dinah's hub. Afterwhich it was just a matter of final assembly and then done!
I'm still considering adding a 1/4800 scale Japanese Battleship down below and maybe a simple plaque but otherwise I'm calling this one done. Hope you like it!
Fooesboy reacted to monthebiff in 1/12 Tamiya Honda RC213V Casey Stoner test Motegi 2015
So I've been in the modelling doldrums for several weeks now, I've obviously had so much time to build but sit there and get nothing done. So I was very surprised on my wedding anniversary to receive this from my wife, We are both big motogp fans and wasnt expecting this but she thought a change of subject would help kickstart thing again. She had also done a bit of research as she knows I'm not a Marquez fan and found found a really cool decal sheet to build a Stoner test bike as well as a detail set from Top Studio.
So never built anything like this before as it's always been aircraft of various scales and this is what I'm aiming for.
Got loads of great pictures of this bike and the new fairings are painted matte black rather than being left in carbon fibre with sponsor logos in white.
Here is some initial progress over the last week or so. First up I stared on the swinging arm and removed the carbon fibre strengttheners that Marquez would run with followed by adding the Top Studio details
Rear damper assembled
And installed in to the painted and decaled swing arm
So far so good and lots of fun, Comments and criticism always welcome.
Fooesboy reacted to steinerman in 1:200 USS Missouri Build Log - Trumpeter w/ Pontos Detail Sets
Greetings friends. With this quarantine in effect I thought I'd be able to make tons of progress on my ship. Alas, such is not the case. My wife just has that much more time to spent on her "Honey-Do" list. And, I've come to the realization that if you spend too many hours a day working with little tiny pieces of PE, you soon get to the point where you have to take a break and walk away for a while. This is a hobby, remember - not a job. It's supposed to be fun, and when it isn't, it's time to do something else. But, I have managed to make a little headway from when I last posted back in March. So, here I am again, with an up-to-date report on my progress. There’s around 40 pictures in this batch, so lean back, grab a cup of coffee (or a glass of wine) and let’s begin.
I have 3 decks finished above the main deck. According to the plans I have, the lower most one is referred to as the 1st Superstructure Deck, the one above that is the 2nd Superstructure Deck, and the top one is the Flag Bridge Deck. This is an overall shot of the whole assemble, to date. Since my last post, I changed my mind on how I wanted to build this model. I intended to attach the hull to the base at this point and then build upwards from there. Due to the weight – and the size of the hull and base, I decided to build the superstructure (called the citadel) by itself and attach it to the hull at a later date. Makes for a much easier build – and I don’t have to worry about knocking all sorts of things off!
OK, a couple things to point out here. One is the American flag. It was actually mounted where you see it at the time of the Japanese surrender. And, you’re right, it does appear to be backwards, but that’s the way it was hung. I had to search for a 48 star flag, then copy it and reduce it to 2/10” wide and print it on photo paper. The other thing here is that I tried my hand at making windscreen wipers for the windows (Yes, there is clear plastic in the windows). The first one isn’t all that good, as you can see, but the second one turned out great. I now have to replace that first one and then make 2 more for the other side. Wanna know how tiny these little things are!!! They’re made from 0.2mm (0.008”) copper wire.
Several new things here. One is the mops and their rack. All hand made from .25mm plastic rod and unraveled string. Also note the fire station under the gangway to the 2nd level. Also, note that all the life rafts now have tiny oars in them and are tied down to the deck with 0.2mm copper wire. The oars were made from plastic rod with the tips heated and then flattened.
Lots of detail added since you saw this last. The vents are painted flat black and then fine mesh copper screen is cut to shape, painted, and glued to the frames. I had all the compressed gas cylinders painted and attached to all 3 decks when something didn’t look right. I did some checking and calculatin’ and discovered that the tanks that came with the ship kit were about 20% too big. They looked out of place. So, I ordered new ones from a place that makes 3D printed parts (more $$$) and did them all over. Then I wrapped 0.2mm copper wire around the tanks to simulate the cables holding them in place. Looks a lot better, don’t you think?
The little short, squat tanks are acetylene and if you don’t think it was a pain painting the red band around them!!! The little buggers are only 2/10 of an inch tall to begin with. The boxes on the 2nd deck are ammunition lockers and are scattered throughout the ship. The white hoses are fire hoses and are located every place you see a red fire suppression valve. Look close and you can see the nozzles of the fire hoses are painted red. The hose reel on the side of deck 1 is made by wrapping a layer of real fine copper wire around a toothpick and painting it flat black. The things you don’t have to do to add detail to a model! The gas bottles are painted the same way they were in 1945. Three 20mm Orlikon Anti-Aircraft guns mount on the angled platform. The diagonal tubes on the side are spare gun barrels and the protrusions on the top edge are to hold loaded 20mm shell canisters so they are ready for the gunners at a moment’s notice. They're called "Loader Frames".
Note the gas cylinders in the enclosed walkway and the tiny steps leading up to the 20mm gun platform. I’m not installing any more guns until much later in the build. They’re too easy to knock off (I learned that the hard way!)
Here we have a couple new things for you to see. One is a spare float for the float planes that are catapulted from the stern of the ship. I had to buy an extra set of airplanes just to get this float! $$$. Also, do you remember when I left off last March , I said I needed to make some “Stokes Litters”? Well, nobody makes any in 1:200 scale, so I did some research on the Internet and discovered that they were about 7’ long and roughly 3’ wide, and were made out of canvas webbing. I carved and sanded what I though was a reasonable looking part, then made a mold and pressed glue saturated toule fabric into the mold. When the glue dried, I carefully cut it out, wrapped a border of 0.2mm copper wire around the outside, and painted it. An old sailor from that era probably would take one look at it and laugh like mad, but hey, it’s the best I could do. You can see 2 of them in this view. There are 5 altogether.
Here’s a view showing a ventilator, stokes litter, gas bottles, hose reel, and fire suppression equipment. Also, two stacks of life rafts, with oars, tied down to the deck.
There are several places on this ship where I cut out the hatchway and installed photo-etch doors that are partially open. When the ship is all complete, I plan to have about 300 sailors and officers placed throughout the ship’s decks. Also, please note the gun crew’s helmets mounted on the outside of the gun tub’s splinter shield. To make these, I bought extra oversized compressed gas cylinders, cut the rounded tops off, and painted then dark grey.
I took this picture to show the 4 layers of ammunition clip hangers around the insides of the 40mm Bofors gun tubs. If you recall, the shells are fed into the 40mm Bofors cannons in clips that hold 5 shells at a time. These clips are stored here and are retrieved and fed into the guns by the loaders when the ship is in action. Also, there is a 20mm Orlikon AA gun mounted just aft of the 40mm gun tub and the helmets for this station are hanging on the aft of the 40mm gun tub.
Here’s a close up of the life rafts and oars. If you’re new to these progress reports, you might be wondering where all this detail is coming from. I have a set of blueprints for this ship that are 9 feet long and show the tops and sides of every deck in sharp detail, along with the masts and rigging. Expensive as heck, but worth every penny!
Here's another open hatchway and a couple more Stokes litters. There’s a ton of crap that goes on top of this upper deck and it’s going to take a long time to get it all installed.
My plans show a rack with oil hoses is installed here. No such animal in the kit, so to the rescue comes Evergreen plastic rod and strips. Looks just like the real thing!
The port 20mm gun platform and more gas bottles. It was a real pain having to tear out the old ones and paint and replace with the smaller ones, but I’m glad I did. They look a lot better! Only took about 12 hours all told.
Another stokes litter and more gas bottles. Sure wish there wasn’t so many acetylene tanks. It's a real pain painting that red band! Also, note the mop rack and hose reel on the aft side of the 5 inch gun mount.
Stepping away and looking at all 3 decks. There is still quite a bit of hardware that goes between the main deck and the 1st superstructure deck that I won’t be able to put in place until the superstructure is glued in place to the main deck.
Port side at the front of the superstructure. More gas bottles, another mop rack, more life rafts. I see a problem where there’s a sizeable gap in the plastic parts near the front. I’ll have to correct that before I go on. It’s way too noticeable.
Port side of 16” gun turret #2. The ladder on this side of the storage shed is all bent out of shape. Might be a good idea if I replaced it. I opened this hatchway too. I don’t know if you recall or not, but the red fire hose hanger is made from 1/64” automotive striping tape.
This is the very front of the superstructure. It’s referred to as the “Conning Tower” and extends all the way up to the navigation bridge. The rack holds spare rail stations and the two side protrusions are antenna outriggers where the antennae tie off and feed into the conning tower. They are made from 0.3mm copper wire and anchored inside through .3mm holes drilled in the plastic. This view also shows another gap between the port windows and the conning tower. Close-up photography is excellent at locating problem areas that are not noticeable when looking at the model with the naked eye.
Close up of compressed gas bottles and both open and closed portholes. Every porthole has a brass photo-etch ring glued to it. I can show portholes either opened or closed at my discretion. The 4 objects attached to the side of the adjacent 5” gun platform are spare barrels for the 5” guns.
This photo shows the ammo clip rings for the 40mm Bofor guns in detail, as well as the gun crew helmets. These rings are brass photo-etch (PE) and have to be glued in place one at a time, starting with the bottom layer. There are tiny tabs on the outer perimeter of each ring that you bend down to rest on the ring below. This maintains the proper distance between rings, but it’s a real pain in the butt to hold them in place and apply glue to the tabs at the same time.
This is looking down on all three decks at the front of the port side. Note the mop rack, the oxygen bottles, the life rafts, and the ladder up to the 40mm gun director. I elected to open the hatchway to the flag bridge. I do need to make windscreen washers on this side.
OK, I know this is what you’ve been waiting for. What this latest module looks like on the ship. Here it is.
If you’re new to my built posts, I elected not to mount my ship on brass pedestals, as is normally the case. Instead, it’s mounted on walnut blocks laid out to represent the keel blocks under the ship when she was in drydock for her last refit. I think it looks a lot better than having it stuck up on some brass pedestals, don’t you?
OK, here’s the lower 3 decks of the superstructure mounted on the hull (not glued down). Also, the #2 16” gun turret is in place.
The next few pictures give you an idea of the complexity of a modern (WWII) battleship. And, the amount of detail that goes into a model of this size and scale. In case you don’t remember, this model is 1:200 scale (1” = 200”, or 16.67 ft). The model is a fraction over 53” long – almost 4-1/2 feet, and the actual USS Missouri (Mighty Mo) is 883 feet long. The ship is on permanent display at Pearl Harbor in Hawaii.
Traveling down the starboard side.
I know many of you think I’m anal, and you’re probably right. But, every time I finish a sub-assembly or a module, I stop and count the number of pieces that went into that particular assembly. I keep an Excel spreadsheet that totals up the number of parts, the number of assemblies, and the total parts count. In case you have any interest at all, so far there are 4864 individual pieces in this model. That includes all the guns that are not mounted yet, as well as the 40+ gun directors built but not yet installed. It does NOT include all the tiny pieces of plastic glued to the safety net baskets. These are counted as I piece. This total includes 1041 plastic parts, 3272 individual brass photo-etched parts, and 348 resin parts. Told you I was anal!
Looks kinda impressive, doesn’t it? But, believe it or not, I’m probably about only halfway finished.
There is a lot of equipment that mounts on the main deck alongside the superstructure that I can’t glue in place yet. This includes things like the lifeboats and divots, more 20mm gun platforms, and the like. Also, none of the railings have been added – and there’s a ton of those!
Believe it or not, most of the remaining assemblies are smaller and more delicate that what’s come so far. The higher up you go, the more complex things become, and the masts, with all the antennas and radars, are totally unreal!
I thought of placing the 5” gun turrets in place for this shot but decided nah, why risk damaging them. You’ll just have to wait to see them in place.
Yeah, I know, there are a few mistakes I've made so far. I try to catch as many as I can, but some will undoubtedly slip through. On the whole, though, I think they will be relatively hard to see once the ship is done and in it's case.
01 I haven’t attached the boarding ladders to the sides of the hull yet either. That will come later.
All ready to start working on the next level.
And oh yeah, I’ve already had a nameplate made for the ship when it’s finished. Notice there’s no finish date on it!!
OK, friends, that’s all for this post. I hope you liked it. So, until next time, stay safe, stay healthy, and stay home!
Fooesboy reacted to Squizzy in 1/200 USS Arizona, with the works
So it's been about 12 months since I posted an update on this build, and for good reason! Late one night I was working on the rolled top of the waterway near the end of the quarter deck, and I knocked a jar of Tamiya cement over the side of the ship. Quickly getting a damp rag to try and clean up, the mess was bad, really bad! So my Arizona made its way to the top of the book shelf, not to be seen again, for about 11 months.
At this point, my curiosity on exactly how bad it was got the best of me, so for about an hour a week I'd work on the cleanup. Drilling out portholes that were full of glue, sanding down the side of the hull, digging glue out from around the fuel line, and after a few weeks, it was looking pretty good and was back on the desk full time and things were full speed ahead!
I finished the waterways with styrene strip and rods, and started using the Ka photoetched set that details the torpedo bulges.
At this stage I'm very happy with how it's going, on only sign of the glue disaster from 12 months ago is some discolouration of the plastic, no real issue at all now.
I've ordered the open cleats for the Arizona from Model Monkey, but with the way things are at the moment, it could take some time to get to me. So next I'll be working on reshaping the rudder and get that area finished off.
Thanks for looking!