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    Fooesboy reacted to steinerman in 1:200 USS Missouri Build Log - Trumpeter w/ Pontos Detail Sets   
    Greetings friends.  With this quarantine in effect I thought I'd be able to make tons of progress on my ship.  Alas, such is not the case.  My wife just has that much more time to spent on her "Honey-Do" list.  And, I've come to the realization that if you spend too many hours a day working with little tiny pieces of PE, you soon get to the point where you have to take a break and walk away for a while.  This is a hobby, remember - not a job.  It's supposed to be fun, and when it isn't, it's time to do something else.  But, I have managed to make a little headway from when I last posted back in March.  So, here I am again, with an up-to-date report on my progress. There’s around 40 pictures in this batch, so lean back, grab a cup of coffee (or a glass of wine) and let’s begin.
    I have 3 decks finished above the main deck.  According to the plans I have, the lower most one is referred to as the 1st Superstructure Deck, the one above that is the 2nd Superstructure Deck, and the top one is the Flag Bridge Deck. This is an overall shot of the whole assemble, to date. Since my last post, I changed my mind on how I wanted to build this model. I intended to attach the hull to the base at this point and then build upwards from there.  Due to the weight – and the size of the hull and base, I decided to build the superstructure (called the citadel) by itself and attach it to the hull at a later date.  Makes for a much easier build – and I don’t have to worry about knocking all sorts of things off!

    OK, a couple things to point out here.  One is the American flag.  It was actually mounted where you see it at the time of the Japanese surrender.  And, you’re right, it does appear to be backwards, but that’s the way it was hung.  I had to search for a 48 star flag, then copy it and reduce it to 2/10” wide and print it on photo paper.  The other thing here is that I tried my hand at making windscreen wipers for the windows (Yes, there is clear plastic in the windows).  The first one isn’t all that good, as you can see, but the second one turned out great. I now have to replace that first one and then make 2 more for the other side.  Wanna know how tiny these little things are!!!  They’re made from 0.2mm (0.008”) copper wire.

    Several new things here.  One is the mops and their rack.  All hand made from .25mm plastic rod and unraveled string. Also note the fire station under the gangway to the 2nd level.  Also, note that all the life rafts now have tiny oars in them and are tied down to the deck with 0.2mm copper wire.  The oars were made from plastic rod with the tips heated and then flattened.

     Lots of detail added since you saw this last. The vents are painted flat black and then fine mesh copper screen is cut to shape, painted, and glued to the frames.  I had all the compressed gas cylinders painted and attached to all 3 decks when something didn’t look right.  I did some checking and calculatin’ and discovered that the tanks that came with the ship kit were about 20% too big. They looked out of place.  So, I ordered new ones from a place that makes 3D printed parts (more $$$) and did them all over.  Then I wrapped 0.2mm copper wire around the tanks to simulate the cables holding them in place.  Looks a lot better, don’t you think?

    The little short, squat tanks are acetylene and if you don’t think it was a pain painting the red band around them!!!  The little buggers are only 2/10 of an inch tall to begin with. The boxes on the 2nd deck are ammunition lockers and are scattered throughout the ship.  The white hoses are fire hoses and are located every place you see a red fire suppression valve.  Look close and you can see the nozzles of the fire hoses are painted red.  The hose reel on the side of deck 1  is made by wrapping a layer of real fine copper wire around a toothpick and painting it flat black. The things you don’t have to do to add detail to a model!  The gas bottles are painted the same way they were in 1945.  Three 20mm Orlikon Anti-Aircraft guns mount on the angled platform.  The diagonal tubes on the side are spare gun barrels and the protrusions on the top edge are to hold loaded 20mm shell canisters so they are ready for the gunners at a moment’s notice. They're called "Loader Frames". 

    Note the gas cylinders in the enclosed walkway and the tiny steps leading up to the 20mm gun platform.  I’m not installing any more guns until much later in the build.  They’re too easy to knock off  (I learned that the hard way!)

    Here we have a couple new things for you to see.  One is a spare float for the float planes that are catapulted from the stern of the ship.  I had to buy an extra set of airplanes just to get this float! $$$.  Also, do you remember when I left off last March , I said I needed to make some “Stokes Litters”?  Well, nobody makes any in 1:200 scale, so I did some research on the Internet and discovered that they were about 7’ long and roughly 3’ wide, and were made out of canvas webbing.  I carved and sanded what I though was a reasonable looking part, then made a mold and pressed glue saturated toule fabric into the mold. When the glue dried, I carefully cut it out, wrapped a border of 0.2mm copper wire around the outside, and painted it.  An old sailor from that era probably would take one look at it and laugh like mad, but hey, it’s the best I could do.  You can see 2 of them in this view.  There are 5 altogether.

    Here’s a view showing a ventilator, stokes litter, gas bottles, hose reel, and fire suppression equipment.  Also, two stacks of life rafts, with oars, tied down to the deck.

    There are several places on this ship where I cut out the hatchway and installed photo-etch doors that are partially open.  When the ship is all complete, I plan to have about 300 sailors and officers placed throughout the ship’s decks.  Also, please note the gun crew’s helmets mounted on the outside of the gun tub’s splinter shield.  To make these, I bought extra oversized compressed gas cylinders, cut the rounded tops off, and painted then dark grey.

    I took this picture to show the 4 layers of ammunition clip hangers around the insides of the 40mm Bofors gun tubs.  If you recall, the shells are fed into the 40mm Bofors cannons in clips that hold 5 shells at a time. These clips are stored here and are retrieved and fed into the guns by the loaders when the ship is in action.  Also, there is a 20mm Orlikon AA gun mounted just aft of the 40mm gun tub and the helmets for this station are hanging on the aft of the 40mm gun tub.

    Here’s a close up of the life rafts and oars.  If you’re new to these progress reports, you might be wondering where all this detail is coming from.  I have a set of blueprints for this ship that are 9 feet long and show the tops and sides of every deck in sharp detail, along with the masts and rigging.  Expensive as heck, but worth every penny!

    Here's another open hatchway and a couple more Stokes litters.  There’s a ton of crap that goes on top of this upper deck and it’s going to take a long time to get it all installed.

    My plans show a rack with oil hoses is installed here.  No such animal in the kit, so to the rescue comes Evergreen plastic rod and strips. Looks just like the real thing!

    The port 20mm gun platform and more gas bottles.  It was a real pain having to tear out the old ones and paint and replace with the smaller ones, but I’m glad I did.  They look a lot better!  Only took about 12 hours all told.

    Another stokes litter and more gas bottles.  Sure wish there wasn’t so many acetylene tanks.  It's a real pain painting that red band!  Also, note the mop rack and hose reel on the aft side of the 5 inch gun mount.

    Stepping away and looking at all 3 decks.  There is still quite a bit of hardware that goes between the main deck and the 1st superstructure deck that I won’t be able to put in place until the superstructure is glued in place to the main deck.

    Port side at the front of the superstructure. More gas bottles, another mop rack, more life rafts.  I see a problem where there’s a sizeable gap in the plastic parts near the front.  I’ll have to correct that before I go on.  It’s way too noticeable.

    Port side of 16” gun turret #2.  The ladder on this side of the storage shed is all bent out of shape. Might be a good idea if I replaced it. I opened this hatchway too.  I don’t know if you recall or not, but the red fire hose hanger is made from 1/64” automotive striping tape.

    This is the very front of the superstructure.  It’s referred to as the “Conning Tower” and extends all the way up to the navigation bridge. The rack holds spare rail stations and the two side protrusions are antenna outriggers where the antennae tie off and feed into the conning tower.  They are made from 0.3mm copper wire and anchored inside through .3mm holes drilled in the plastic. This view also shows another gap between the port windows and the conning tower. Close-up photography is excellent at locating problem areas that are not noticeable when looking at the model with the naked eye.

    Close up of compressed gas bottles and both open and closed portholes. Every porthole has a brass photo-etch ring glued to it. I can show portholes either opened or closed at my discretion. The 4 objects attached to the side of the adjacent 5” gun platform are spare barrels for the 5” guns.

    This photo shows the ammo clip rings for the 40mm Bofor guns in detail, as well as the gun crew helmets.  These rings are brass photo-etch (PE) and have to be glued in place one at a time, starting with the bottom layer.  There are tiny tabs on the outer perimeter of each ring that you bend down to rest on the ring below.  This maintains the proper distance between rings, but it’s a real pain in the butt to hold them in place and apply glue to the tabs at the same time.

    This is looking down on all three decks at the front of the port side. Note the mop rack, the oxygen bottles, the life rafts, and the ladder up to the 40mm gun director.  I elected to open the hatchway to the flag bridge.  I do need to make windscreen washers on this side.

    OK, I know this is what you’ve been waiting for.  What this latest module looks like on the ship.  Here it is.

    If you’re new to my built posts, I elected not to mount my ship on brass pedestals, as is normally the case.  Instead, it’s mounted on walnut blocks laid out to represent the keel blocks under the ship when she was in drydock for her last refit.  I think it looks a lot better than having it stuck up on some brass pedestals, don’t you?

    OK, here’s the lower 3 decks of the superstructure mounted on the hull (not glued down).  Also, the #2 16” gun turret is in place.

    The next few pictures give you an idea of the complexity of a modern (WWII) battleship. And, the amount of detail that goes into a model of this size and scale.  In case you don’t remember, this model is 1:200 scale (1” = 200”, or 16.67 ft).  The model is a fraction over 53” long – almost 4-1/2 feet, and the actual USS Missouri (Mighty Mo) is 883 feet long.  The ship is on permanent display at Pearl Harbor in Hawaii.

    Traveling down the starboard side.

    I know many of you think I’m anal, and you’re probably right.  But, every time I finish a sub-assembly or a module, I stop and count the number of pieces that went into that particular assembly.  I keep an Excel spreadsheet that totals up the number of parts, the number of assemblies, and the total parts count.  In case you have any interest at all, so far there are 4864 individual pieces in this model.  That includes all the guns that are not mounted yet, as well as the 40+ gun directors built but not yet installed.  It does NOT include all the tiny pieces of plastic glued to the safety net baskets.  These are counted as I piece.  This total includes 1041 plastic parts, 3272 individual brass photo-etched parts, and 348 resin parts.  Told you I was anal!

    Looks kinda impressive, doesn’t it?  But, believe it or not, I’m probably about only halfway finished.

    There is a lot of equipment that mounts on the main deck alongside the superstructure that I can’t glue in place yet.  This includes things like the lifeboats and divots, more 20mm gun platforms, and the like.  Also, none of the railings have been added – and there’s a ton of those!

    Believe it or not, most of the remaining assemblies are smaller and more delicate that what’s come so far.  The higher up you go, the more complex things become, and the masts, with all the antennas and radars, are totally unreal!

    I thought of placing the 5” gun turrets in place for this shot but decided nah, why risk damaging them.  You’ll just have to wait to see them in place.

    Yeah, I know, there are a few mistakes I've made so far. I try to catch as many as I can, but some will undoubtedly slip through. On the whole, though, I think they will be relatively hard to see once the ship is done and in it's case.

    01     I haven’t attached the boarding ladders to the sides of the hull yet either.  That will come later.

    All ready to start working on the next level.

    And oh yeah, I’ve already had a nameplate made for the ship when it’s finished.  Notice there’s no finish date on it!!

    OK, friends, that’s all for this post.  I hope you liked it.  So, until next time, stay safe, stay healthy, and stay home!
  2. Like
    Fooesboy reacted to ShelbyGT500 in Abandoned Soviet T-62 in Afghanistan   
    Thanks Maru ;)
    Well the interior is ready:



    Also imitate some welding at the front armor plate:

    And the base is almost done:




    Thank you always for stopping by :)
    Cheers guys.
  3. Like
    Fooesboy reacted to Squizzy in 1/200 USS Arizona, with the works   
    So it's been about 12 months since I posted an update on this build, and for good reason! Late one night I was working on the rolled top of the waterway near the end of the quarter deck, and I knocked a jar of Tamiya cement over the side of the ship. Quickly getting a damp rag to try and clean up, the mess was bad, really bad! So my Arizona made its way to the top of the book shelf, not to be seen again, for about 11 months.
    At this point, my curiosity on exactly how bad it was got the best of me, so for about an hour a week I'd work on the cleanup. Drilling out portholes that were full of glue, sanding down the side of the hull, digging glue out from around the fuel line, and after a few weeks, it was looking pretty good and was back on the desk full time and things were full speed ahead!
    I finished the waterways with styrene strip and rods, and started using the Ka photoetched set that details the torpedo bulges.
    At this stage I'm very happy with how it's going, on only sign of the glue disaster from 12 months ago is some discolouration of the plastic, no real issue at all now. 
    I've ordered the open cleats for the Arizona from Model Monkey, but with the way things are at the moment, it could take some time to get to me. So next I'll be working on reshaping the rudder and get that area finished off.
    Thanks for looking!
  4. Like
    Fooesboy reacted to ShelbyGT500 in Abandoned Soviet T-62 in Afghanistan   
    Hi guys, I'm glad you like it so far :)
    Now - start with painting the interior - brown primer, hair-spray, base off-white color, chip the paint and weatherin with oil paints, a lot of dir, isn't it ;)




    Also start work of the base:



    That is for today :) Cheers friends.
  5. Like
    Fooesboy got a reaction from ShelbyGT500 in Abandoned Soviet T-62 in Afghanistan   
    This is just the sort of modeling that is really taking my interest at the moment, I'll be looking forward to seeing your progress.
  6. Like
    Fooesboy reacted to ShelbyGT500 in Abandoned Soviet T-62 in Afghanistan   
    Hi guys, this will be my next project as the topic says
    The model is from trumpeter at 35 scale. Will use a lot of parts from spare-box and a lot of scratch-work:

























    Well that is for now. Hope you will like this project and thanks for watching as always friends.
  7. Like
    Fooesboy reacted to fozzy in THE FINAL HURDLE!... 1:20 scale scratch built B17G   
    Hi guys
    Firstly I want to say that I hope everyone is staying safe out there whilst living in these difficult times.
    I have been away for a while as I have been building the smaller stuff!....but I'm back with the big boys now!!
    Well it is time to get down and finally attempt to finish this Mammoth B17G project. Some of you may know that I started this 7 years ago with a few breaks in between sections to build other stuff.
    As a recap :  I was originally going to just scratch build the nose section but kind of got hood winked in carrying on down the length of the fuselage! .....so I then built the Bomb bay....followed by the radio room and ball turret section and now it is time to finish this off with the tail section. Just to let you all know that I will not be building the wings and the 4 engines that go with it!
    I got together some old post photos from the start of this project and thought I would show you of how I got to this point today!
    This first photo shows the completed fuselage up to the ball turret position.....

    Here is a shot of the cockpit.......

    ...and the bomb bay looking from the radio room through to the cockpit....

    Here is the radio operators table in the radio room.....

    ...and finally the ball turret in place on the hanging harness.....

    So my aim has always been through out this project to display as much of the internal detail as possible as I have always been fascinated with the Flying Fortress!.....so to that end I have tried to construct the whole fuselage with the top removed. This over the years has given me many headaches and will continue to I'm sure ... because I didn't want to take away the shape of the B17!... For example my next problem will be how to display the detail with that ruddy great dorsal Fin attached?......well I have an idea which I will show you as we get on with the build.
    The other problem I have is how to ship it back to the UK from here?....I have made a bespoke box out of MDF but I am getting ahead of my self!....lets put that to one side at the moment and get this last section underway!
    So here we go then..the first of many photos and posts that I will have to make!!
    I am going to make the fuselage out of balsa wood as I did with the the front sections....so after digging out the scale plans that I scaled up to 1:20 I cut out all the formers I would need.

    The bottom half was built up first ...then the top half .....here they are temporarily joined.


    A few years ago I started strengthening the fuselage by filling in between the stringers with scrap pieces of Balsa wood. All you have to do then is sand down carefully to the formers and stringers to get the ...hopefully.... correct shape. Here is the bottom half.....

    Here is the top half just  placed in position.....

    So here the scrap balsa was filled in the gaps and sanded. You can see that I have left an area open at the top so you will be able to see down into the detail......


    Now I turned my attention to the dorsal fin which runs along the top of the fuselage which eventually turns into the tail fin.At this stage I am only building so far back and will complete it by somehow attaching the tail fin at a later stage...there is method in my madness as you will see later!

    Once I had filled the gaps with balsa ,I glued the dorsal fin on top of the fuselage and as you can see there is still enough open space to eventually look at all the detail.

    I thought I would clamp the front section onto this to see what it might look like......JEEZ!.....It's about 3 feet 5 inches long!! 




    Well that's as far as I have got with this so far!
    I do hope some of you will come along with me for the ride on this final stage of this project...would appreciate the support!
    Until the next post.....thanks for looking in and stay safe guys!
  8. Like
    Fooesboy reacted to chuck540z3 in SH Tempest Mk V "Kicked Up A Notch". May 25- Cockpit Cont'd   
    May 3/20
    Thanks guys!  That’s a lot of comments- and a lot of pressure, so I’ll try to do a good job.
    After several hours of rescribing and adding rivet detail, both fuselage halves are now ready to accept cockpit parts.  After reviewing the instructions and sprue parts as thoroughly, a number of things about this kit stand out to me:
    The registration on the faces of all parts are excellent Pin marks are mostly on the sprue frames rather than the parts, like they should be, but Seam lines are everywhere and sometimes quite thick The instructions are both good and bad.  More on that later Cockpit detail is excellent Without a detailed engine or movable control surfaces, this model isn’t all that complicated The sprues are obviously made for several different versions of Typhoons and Tempests, since many parts are not used.  The included resin parts replace some of them with added detail, which is excellent Like all cockpits, you will need references to make sense of the instructions  
    Here is Sprue “I”, which has most of the cockpit parts.  Note all the deleted parts, including 3 different joy stick top rings, which are replaced by a 4th resin one.

    The spruce itself.  Mostly crisp and clean, but lots of seam marks on the sides of every single part.

    An example of the instructions for Step 12.  You really need to follow all those lines carefully to figure out where everything attaches and it would seem, everything should be glued together solidly.

    However, later in Step 15, those outside cockpit cage walls are free-floating again, so one better be careful to not glue the rear parts too solidly in Step 12?

    The paint guide really bugs me, because the labels make no sense in either language, and why all green droplets, which is confusing.  If they can show red and yellow parts, why not a red droplet or yellow one?

    Despite my complaints above, this appears to be a really good kit overall, so we’ll see.  It’s not up there with a modern Tamiya kit, but it blows away my last 2 Kitty Hawk kits already.
    The inside of the fuselage has 3 big pin marks, but only the central one needs to be eliminated, since the outer ones will be hidden.  Even my Tamiya Spitfire had 4 of them to be removed, so this is nothing.

    And since the instructions are a bit confusing and I have to navigate them anyway, I’m going to do something I’ve never done before:  A Step by Step Guide!  From Step 1 to Step 46, I will show each step and how I did them, although some of the steps are not required.  I’m also going to show how I do my cockpits in detail, also step by step, since I have had a request for same and I love doing them.  Here are some of my past efforts at the bottom of a thread started by Uncarina for those who might be interested.
    LSP Cockpits
    On all my recent cockpits I have been spraying them with gloss black first.  This is not really "black basing" as some describe this technique, but it does accomplish the following:
     1)  The black color creates natural shadows when the interior green is sprayed from above at an angle.
     2)  Many of the cockpit components are black anyway, especially the front instrument panel.
     3)  As with a primer, the black reveals flaws that can be fixed early and repainted.
     4)  I generally use a lot of instrument and placard decals, so the gloss finish is a perfect surface
     5)  Gloss black with dull coat is a lot smoother than ordinary flat black paint. 
     6)  Liquid masks can be removed from a gloss surface much easier than a dull and flat finish.
    So let’s start with Step 1, the right side of the cockpit side walls.  For reference, “PUR” are resin parts and “PE” are photo-etch.

    I’m not sure what those clamp-like PE17 parts are for (flare holders?), but there are 6 of them and only 5 spots to glue them to.  Checking references, I count 6 of them, so I used them all.  PE 14 was also glued into place, as were I61 and I63, since they will all be Black.  There were heavy seam lines on all parts that needed to be sanded off.

    Step 2, the left side.

    Here I attached everything, except for I26 and D16, which will be Aluminum and Light Brown, respectively, so they will be painted and attached later.  BTW, I26 is often Black, but I'm going with Aluminum for more contrast on a Black background.

    Step 3, the left cockpit cage.  Lots of “PUR” resin here.

    Here there is an instruction error, because this side is "I2" and not "I1" as indicated, which is for the other side and there were seam lines everywhere which took a lot of time to remove where they will be seen.  Looking at the pic, I need to remove some more!
    Here I left off wheel PUR4, since it will be painted Red Brown, but also the throttle control with 4 resin parts, because it is so fragile.  I’m guessing I will be attaching it permanently at the end of the build to avoid breakage.  Note that I also added a pin to foot pedal(?) I69, which will be painted Bright Red, but it has no natural attachment point to the cage despite a large circular recess for this part.  With the pin I can paint it and just slide it on later.

    Step 4, the right cage parts.   I2 should be I1.

    Here I left off foot pedal I68 like the other side and handles I7, which will be yellow, but I also left off I30 and I68, only because they will be difficult to paint when installed.

    So that’s it for now and likely another few weeks.  I’m headed to my cabin for a while to get away from all this virus turmoil and hopefully experience a bit of normalcy.  Crazy times indeed.
  9. Like
    Fooesboy reacted to LSP_Kevin in Rescribing   
    OK, I've updated the photos for Part 1 of this tutorial, and will try to get Part 2 done tomorrow. The photos are now larger than the original Photobucket versions, too. I still have to apologise for their quality, however - they were taken over 10 years ago!
  10. Like
    Fooesboy reacted to viper-dc in Fw 190A-8 Eduard profi Pack 1/48   
    I still have to paint the black part behind the exhaust and the cannon.

  11. Like
    Fooesboy reacted to chuck540z3 in SH Tempest Mk V "Kicked Up A Notch". May 25- Cockpit Cont'd   
    April 28/20
    With my KH Harvard put away in my display case, it booted my poor Spitfire down to share a crowded shelf with my Eagle.  Oh well, that bright yellow sure looks good in there, but I really need to buy another display case, because I can’t just throw out the oldest model to make room like I used to.  These are all keepers from now on!

    My next project is the 1/32 Special Hobby Hawker Tempest Mk V kit, which comes with many extra bits like lots of resin, cloth seatbelts, masks and a few photo-etch parts.  For subject, I’m going with French Ace Pierre Clostermann’s “JF-E” of RAF No. 3 Squadron, Serial Number NV994, for a few reasons.  First, it has no black and white invasion stripes that I really don’t like and two, Pierre nick-named his ride “Le Grand Charles”, so I had no other choice!  There’s a good historical documentation of this aircraft here:
    Hawker Tempest "Le Grand Charles"
    And I think I will be doing this version of it post war with the red spinner, because it looks so cool.  Photo art courtesy of Eduard.

    I’ve read quite a few build threads about this kit and many have complained that a lot of the parts don’t fit properly, etc., but based upon so many absolutely beautiful Tempests created out there, it can’t be that bad.  Since I just built 2 Kitty Hawk models in a row, this kit can’t be any worse.
    Here’s a pic of the resin that comes with this kit, which is extensive with two sets of wheels/tires.

    And here is what I’ll be adding, although I’m not sure all of it, since the kit seat looks very nice already:
    #32234 Barracuda Nose Correction Set with Props
    #32124 Barracuda 4 Slot Wheels set
    #32141 Barracuda Intake Ring
    #32142 Barracuda Seat with Backpad
    #32239 CMK Exhaust Set
    #32122 Maketar Paint Masks for all insignias and other markings
    #232016 HGW Wet Transfer Decals (OOP!)
    I have two Barracuda noses, because for some reason the first ones were faulty and Roy Sutherland replaced them, free of charge.  Great products, great prices and great service!  Having used the HGW Wet Transfer Decals very successfully on my Spitfire Mk IX (#232001), I wanted to use the same product on this Tempest.  Well, low and behold, not only are they no longer made, but neither are the Spitfire’s!  If you can find any like I did grab them while you can, because I found that they worked great with zero decal film to worry about.

    Like most aircraft the first step is the painting and assembly of the cockpit parts, starting with the front fuselage halves.  Checking out the big parts, there is lots of rivet and panel line detail, but the finish is rough and a bit lumpy, while panel lines are a bit too wide and the rivet detail is not consistent. 

    Just like my Kitty Hawk kits, I decided to sand everything down, then re-scribe all panel lines and re-punch most of the rivets.  VERY time consuming, but I think it will be worth it in the end.  Here I have added a dark wash to show this new detail, which isn’t a fair comparison to the unaltered part on the right, but I think you can see how the panel lines in particular have tightened up and are much crisper.

    A few more angles.


    It looks like the big wings have similar issues, so I will be very busy and progress will be slow.  Summer is almost here as well, so this could be a very slooooow build, but as always, I’ll get ‘er done!
  12. Haha
  13. Thanks
    Fooesboy reacted to Derek B in 1/32nd scale Avro Shackleton - scratchbuild project   
    Great work as always Tom - I am very impressed with your scratch building work.
    I think that an MR.2 would look awesome. I know that the Shackleton GR/MR.1 and early MR.2 aircraft used the same dorsal armament as the Avro Lincoln (I am making a kit master pattern of the Lincoln at the moment, so that is how I know). The dorsal turret is a Bristol B17 turret armed with twin Hispano Mk.V cannons. Below is a quick trawl of the internet for relevant reference material for you Tom:

    Installation on a Lancaster














    The Bristol Aeroplane Company Ltd

    The Bristol Type B.17 Mk.1 Mid-upper Turret - Pt 1

    Nearly all the Bristol designs produced by the Company were mid-upper turrets intended for aircraft use. The last Bristol turret to be produced in quantity was also a mid-upper design, the Type B.17. However, this was for the Avro Lincoln.

    In 1943 the Air Ministry issued a specification for a Hispano-Suiza cannon turret for the new bomber . It called for a high degree of control and had to be as self-contained as possible. The Boulton Paul and Frazer-Nash companies submitted updated versions of cannon-armed turrets designed in the late 1930s, but the new Bristol turret proved superior and was accepted for use. The main reason for this decision was the advanced power system built into the turret, the Bristol all-electrical system.

    The prototype of the new turret was constructed at the Carson factory, where the production jigs were also produced.

    The turret was a self-contained unit supported from the aircraft structure by a top bearing, the outer part being fixed to the aircraft frame. The inner rotating section formed the turret ring from which various sections were suspended; these were the gun cradles, the armoured front shield, drive motors and control console, and the ammunition boxes, seat and rotating service joint. Roller bearings took the side and upward loads, and steel balls supported the main weight of the turret.

    The B.17 was powered by the Bristol all-electric system. the motor/generator unit was strapped under the floor, and the two drive motors were fixed vertically to the armoured shield in front of the gunner. As in the B.12, the traversing drive motor turned the turret by means of a pinion engaging in a toothed ring bolted to the outer fixed ring of the turret rotation bearing. A spring clutch between the reduction gear and the motor - was designed to slip under excessive loading. The gun cradle was elevated and depressed by a drive motor which turned a screwjack attached to the hinged cradle, and the elevation drive was also protected by a slipping clutch. The turret drives were controlled by a twin-handle controller which varied the speed and direction of the drive motors by means of potentiometers in the twist-grip handles. The handles were also fitted with grasp-type levers which operated switches to energise the field circuits of the generators, the levers acting as dead man's handles.

    On the top of the left handle was a high-speed button - when this was pressed the drive motors could be operated 30 per cent faster than normal. This facility could be used only for short periods, and was used to change quickly from one target to another.

    The main electrical supply was taken from the aircraft bus-bars. It was switched on by operating the button of a circuit breaker mounted outside the turret in the aircraft fuselage. A similar breaker was mounted on the gunner's control console. The current entered the turret by way of a rotating service joint at the base; the service joint consisted of a circular drum with three sets of brass slip-rings for the intercom system, general electrical services and main power supply. The drum rotated with the turret, and carbon brushes in contact with the rings took the services into the turret; oxygen was supplied by a pipe running through the centre of the drum via a rotating union.

    The two 20 mm (0.78 in) Hispano cannon were mounted on special cradles with built-in recoil mechanisms. They were connected by a substantial torque tube which rigidly connected the guns in traverse. Until this time the gunners had cocked their Brownings with a rope lanyard, but with the massive Hispano return springs this was impossible. A compressed-air gun cocking unit was therefore employed, supplied from an air bottle in the turret. The gun cradles were designed to accommodate either the Hispano Mk.IV or Mk.V cannon mounted on either side of the seated gunner. Ammunition was stored in boxes which also supported the gunner's sadle-type seat housing. Each gun was supplied with 350 rounds, sufficient for 30 seconds' firing. From the boxes, the ammunition belts were lifted by electrical feed assisters mounted on the side of the gun housings, the rounds being channelled through chutes into the gun feed mechansism. The ammunition feed system was to cause much frustrating delay in bringing the turret into service. It was found very difficult to synchronise the speed of the assisters with the feed mechanisms. The fault was finally rectified, but even after acceptance for Service use this was still the main cause of stoppages. Empty cases and links were ejected into canvas bags slung on either side of the turret.

    A feature of new British turrets was the provision of ammunition round counters, two dials mounted on the gunner's control console giving an accurate indication of rounds available. This was thought necessary owing to the relatively short supply of ammuntion available.

    The guns were fired by triggers on the control handles. When these were pressed an electrical circuit was closed which energised two relays. These in turn switched current to solenoids which activated the firing mechanisms on the Hispanos. The gun-firing circuit was wired in series with a Bristol drum-type gunfire interrupter mounted between the drive motors. When the gun barrels approached a position where damage to the aircraft might be caused, the circuit was switched off.

    The above text and photos were taken from "British Aircraft Armament Vol.1: RAF Gun Turrets", by R Wallace Clarke.

      ATTACHMENTS Elevation drive unit.jpg (36.12 KiB) Viewed 2026 times Bristol Type B.17 in test rig.jpg (50.62 KiB) Viewed 2026 times Wooden mock-up of Bristol Type B.17.jpg (50.54 KiB) Viewed 2025 times Top
    The Bristol Aeroplane Company Ltd

    The Bristol Type B.17 Mk.1 Mid-upper Turret - Pt 2

    The guns were sighted by a Mk.IIC gyro gunsight, mounted on the torque tube between the gun cradle brackets. The range input pedals for the sight were situated on extensions to the gunner's footrests.

    The turret was surmounted by a low-drag cupola which provided a good field of view. The long gun barrels protruded through vertical slots fitted with draught excluders and curved panels which moved with the guns in elevation. The rear half of the cupola could be removed to release a trapped gunner, and to service the guns and turret mechansism.

    The gunner's saddle-type seat could be adjusted for height and reach to any one of six positions by the operation of a lever at the back of the seat. The interphone system to the rest of the crew was switched on by means of a 'press to speak' button on the right control handle. Oxygen and heated clothing sockets were provided.

    Although the back of the cupola could be removed, the gunner's emergency exit was through the aircraft, his parachute being stored on the port side fuselage wall.

    The oxygen economiser unit was fed from the rotating service joint, a flexible tube being taken to the gunner's control panel where a flow indicator was fitted.

    Details of the Bristol B.17 Mk.I Mid-upper Turret

    Position: Mid-upper
    Armament: Two 20 mm (0.78 in) Hispano Mk.V
    Ammunition: 350 rounds per gun
    Fire control: Electrical solenoids
    Field of fire:
    Traverse: 360 degrees
    Elevation: 45 degrees
    Depression: 10 degrees
    Full load current: 140 amps
    Gunsight: Mk.IIC gyro sight
    Weight of turret (armed): 656 kg (1,445 lb)
    Diameter of ring: 94 cm (37 in)
    Overall height: 94 cm (37 in)
    Cupola height: 64 cm (25 in)
    Armour protection: 10 mm (0.393 in)
    Speed of operation (Normal):
    Traverse: 0-35 degrees per sec
    Elevation: 0-25 degrees per sec
    Speed of operation (high speed):
    Traverse: 0-45 degrees per sec
    Elevation: 0-35 degrees per sec

    The following aircraft were fitted with the Bristol B.17 Mk.I Mid-upper Turret.

    Aircraft type: Avro Lincoln B.Mk.II, Avro Shackleton MR.Mks. 1,2 & 3, Short Seaford Mk.I
    Position: Mid-upper
    Guns: 2 x 20 mm (0.78 in) Mk. IV or V
    Traverse: 360 degrees
    Elevation: 45 degrees
    Depression: 10 degrees

    The above text and photos were taken from "British Aircraft Armament Vol.1: RAF Gun Turrets", by R Wallace Clarke.

      ATTACHMENTS   Bristol B.17 turret.jpg (33.71 KiB) Viewed 2019 times B.17.jpg (32.47 KiB) Viewed 2020 times B.17 ammunition system.jpg (32.27 KiB) Viewed 2020 times  
    Bristol B.16 nose turret
    The Bristol Aeroplane Company Ltd

    The Bristol Type B.16 Mk.I Nose Turret

    In 1943 the U-boats of the Kriegsmarine decided to remain surfaced and use their multiple 20mm and single 37 mm weapons to fight attacking Allied aircraft. Initially the practice was successful and many Coastal Command aircraft were lost. The problem was that the front turrets of the Sunderlands, Wellingtons and other types were armed with 7.7 mm (0.303 in) rifle-calibre guns and the Germans knew they had 1 km (0.7 miles) during the attack when the aircraft could be not return their fire. The small Brownings, sometimes only a single gun, had a maximum effective range of some 549 m (600 yds), much less than the heavy calibre AA guns of the U-boats. The Air Staff were naturally concerned,and meetings were held with the various aircraft and armament companies to find a method of countering the new and potentially disastrous situation.

    One of the many schemes suggested was to mount a 40 mm (1.57 in) Vickers Type S gun in the nose of Coastal Command aircraft. The front fuselages of the Sunderland, Whitley, Hudson and other types were not suited for such a project, but there were several squadrons of Boeing B.17 Fortresses serving with the Command. The Bristol Company was given an order to design a turret suitable to mount an S gun, and adapt a Fortress to take it. A Coastal Command Fortress (FK185) was flown to Filton, and one of the huge guns was sent from Vickers' Crayford works. Work started immediately. It was decided to use the newly designed all-electrical power system, and a working mock-up was constructed at Carson's factory in Bristol. which was used by the Bristol Armament Department for development of new turret designs.

    The gun was mounted on a substantial cradle, supported by trunnions suspended on bearings in a lantern-shaped housing. The housing, or main turret body, was traversed by means of a motor which drove a geared sprocket, engaging in a toothed quadrant at the top of the turret. The turret was suspended on two roller bearings at the top and bottom of the housing. The rear of the turret housing was cut away to give access to the large drum magazine and services. The gun cradle was elevated and depressed by a worm gear working through a reduction gear and clutch. Both control motors were operated from control handles in the glazed nose position; the gunner knelt in position and sighted the gun through a Mk.IIIA reflector sight, linked by a moving rod system to the elevation gear. The gun was cocked by a compressed-air system, the magazine holding 15 rounds, which could be reloaded from a 30-round ammuniiton box in the fuselage. On the right wall of the fuselage was a G.45 camera and footage indicator; the camera could be fitted to the gun cradle when needed. In the same position was an oxygen socket and an indicator lamp showing when the motor-generator was running.

    When the prototype turret was installed in the Fortress the control system was found to be remarkably efficient. Vickers' liaison engineers tested the gun mounting, and the first air firing trials were organised. On 26 June 1944 the aircraft was flown to Llandwrog where a beached and derelict coaster was used as a target. Vickers' armour-piercing ammunition was fired and one shell penetrated two 12.7 mm (0.5 in) plates and one 9.5 mm (0.375 in) plate after striking the target from an angle of 40 degrees.

    By the time the B.16 was completed the U-boats had been all but defeated by Coastal Command, and airborne rockets had proved to be an even more effective answer than heavy-calibre guns. Nevertheless, the B.16 turret proved that the Bristol all-electric system could be adapted to suit any turret.

    Details of the Bristol Type B.16 Nose Turret

    Position: Nose
    Power source: Bristol all-electric system
    Servo mechanism: Electric motors
    Field of fire:
    Traverse: 30 degrees to each beam
    Depression: 45 degrees
    Armament: One 40 mm (1.57 in) Vickers S gun
    Ammunition: 15-round drum-type magazine
    Gunsight: Mk.IIIA free-mounted reflector gun sight

    The following aircraft were fitted with the Bristol Type B.16 Nose Turret

    Aircraft type: Boeing B-17E Fortress Mk.IIA
    Type & Mark: B.16 Mk.I
    Position: Nose
    Guns: 1 x 40 mm (1.57 in) Vickers S
    Traverse: 60 degrees
    Elevation: Nil
    Depression: 45 degrees
    Remarks: Prototype only

    The above text and photos were taken from "British Aircraft Armament Vol.1: RAF Gun Turrets", by R Wallace Clarke.

      ATTACHMENTS Bristol Type B.16 Mk.1 turret.jpg (40.62 KiB) Viewed 2031 times Interior detail of B.16 turret.jpg (39.3 KiB) Viewed 2031 times Bristol B.16 turet mounted on test rig.jpg (37.26 KiB) Viewed 2031 times    
  14. Like
    Fooesboy reacted to Pascal in 1/18 Ferrari 333SP, Daytona 24hrs 1998   
    Spent a lot of hours fiddeling ...
    After endless dryfiting, I found the solution to the problem : I moved a hole in the gearbox a bit more to the front :
    Lousy pic, but it shows the old and new hole (barely)

    A copper tube will be fitted in the new hole, this will serve as an attachment for a piece that's part of the suspension  :

    I added some tiny parts to the gearbox (triangles, strips, circles, etc) :


    Made 4 of these with the lathe, they will attach the exhaust tubes to the exhaust :


    Dryfit  :



    It was a lot of work, but I'm happy that it went well.
  15. Like
    Fooesboy reacted to seiran01 in Wingnut Wings Handley Page O/100   
    Port engine nacelle was built open to show off (part of) the Eagle engine.  The front of the fuel tank inside the nacelle is just visible behind the engine. 



    Both nacelles now attached, they were rigged up with fine EZ Line. I've started adding rigging between the wings, fuselage and nacelles now, which is heavy EZ Line.



    Just for fun, I've fitted the outer wings, without the interplane struts. I've not seen any evidence at all of drooping at the joins or along the length of the wings. She's a BIG beast!

    So that's the current progress, I hope you like her so far! I've been doing a speed build on a P-47 to reset my brain and will be returning to the Handley Page build project in the next few days. Stay tuned for more updates
  16. Like
    Fooesboy reacted to seiran01 in Wingnut Wings Handley Page O/100   
    ...Crap.  Translucent fuselage codes.  The D 2 were not originally on the airframe and were later painted on over the existing camouflage.  I've since touched these up by hand painting white oil paint to hide the camo underneath. 

    Size comparison to the AEG:

    And size comparison to the Junkers D.I

    Landing gear test fit: The gear assemblies are surprisingly rigid once glued into place. The metal areas (gear struts and bomb doors in this photo) are painted gray and are painted with Tamiya XF-62 representing a PC10-colored paint. This is a different shade from the PC10 dope covering the airframe. Photo taken before paint touchups were made on the gear assembly. 



    Propeller blades also painted at this point, hubs still to be painted and a little weathering on the fabric covered areas still to be done. 

    Tail assembly: This was the only truly hard part of the build. The instructions have you glue all the struts and the upper tailplane in place, and then add the rudders. This is not something that's actually doable once glue is set. Careful alignment and jigging was needed to get everything set in place. The spiderweb of rigging lines present in the tail assembly were glued to the lower surfaces before joining the upper tailplane. 

  17. Like
    Fooesboy reacted to seiran01 in Wingnut Wings Handley Page O/100   
    Rear fuselage / gunner's cockpit:
    This is one example of the clever engineering I mentioned in the original post The part sitting on the top of the fuselage is an internal support bulkhead. It fits snugly onto the top of the fuselage, plugging into a hole where a cabane strut later joins. A hole in the bulkhead serves as a guide to perfectly locate the hole you need to drill for the filler cap of the internal fuel tank. 

    Gunner cockpit has been painted, sealed, wash applied, and rigged (again with heavy white EZ line). At this point the magazine racks have not been attached and the structure is not glued into the fuselage. I managed to destroy half of the mount for the top rear Lewis gun and replaced the missing half of that mount with copper rod. You'll see the rod yet to be cut to length sticking out of the center vertical support.  

    Elevator and Rudder cables added to the sidewall. These start at a guide molded onto the grey fuel tank A handful of ejector pin marks were left untouched as these are hidden by the bomb rack assembly.




    Gunner cockpit complete with oil applications on the sidewalls, now onto the bomb rack!

    The bomb rack was tricky to paint - the fins of each of the 16 bombs are molded together as one part with the bottom of the rack. The top of each row of four bombs is molded as one part, joined to a wooden cross brace and metal vertical supports. This assembly can be seen relatively clearly from the openings for both the ventral and dorsal rear guns, and possibly the crew hatch and rear nose windows as well depending on the lighting. 





    And finally, glue time.  To quote a gangster from Futurama... "Give 'em the clamps!"

  18. Like
    Fooesboy reacted to seiran01 in Wingnut Wings Handley Page O/100   
    Cockpit rigging - the fun begins!  Photos show that the internal bracing wires were painted white; large white EZ line was used to depict these. 
    There were multiple sets of throttles and other engine controls in the Handley Page cockpit.  I drilled out holes and glued EZ Line to each individual throttle before gluing the pairs together. Notice there are instruments on the right side wall which are below the pilot's seat (instrument decals not applied at this point). The commander had a few instruments here and in the nose which could be referenced while aiming bombs using the sliding hatch, circular glass sight in the floor, or from the nose. 

    Throttle quadrants all glued in place.  The engine control lines are taped to the plastic card for good reason... 

    ...Because they all go into a part that joins the left and right nose halves just in front of the bomb bay. This was the easiest way I could think of to not get lines tangled and glued in the wrong holes. 

    At this point the engine control lines were kept taped together while threaded through their rear control rod.  The elevator and rudder cables must first be attached to their pulleys at the back of the right nose wall before the engine control rod can be glued in place.  Aileron cables exit through a hole in the roof and meet the upper wing near the rear cabane strut. 







  19. Like
    Fooesboy reacted to seiran01 in Wingnut Wings Handley Page O/100   
    Since the company has been closed and these are never getting posted on their website (save for the handful that went online before Christmas showing the interior), I wanted to share with you my HP O/100 build as it stands right now.  Far as I know, only two other people got their hands on a Handley Page before the closure, both of those being O/400s.  
    I hope you'll enjoy seeing what nearly was and may still be if we get lucky enough that someone picks up the molds and brings the release over the finish line. 
    Cliff Notes:  I've never seen a kit with so many clever points of engineering. Not just in the physical design of the parts breakdown and the extremely rigid mammoth wings, but things like how a structural bulkhead for the rear fuselage was also designed to be used as a jig for where precisely to drill openings for the internal fuel tanks, the location of a guide inside the unused engine nacelles for bending wire to make the pitot tube present under the nose, and so on. This thing is essentially as large as a Lancaster in all dimensions
    Wings: Folded or extended, I opted for both wings extended which comes in equal to or a fraction longer in span than the Felixstowe. Once wing halves are glued together, the assemblies are stronger than you'd believe thanks to the internal webbing. 

    Comparison to the WNW Felixstowe:

    Fuselage: I have never seen fabric stitching details look so realistic and so nice. Photos don't do justice to how it looks in person. The putty line is filling O/400 stitching details not needed on the O/100. 

    Cockpit:  Some sink holes to fill, as well as one or two recesses for cutouts the O/400 uses.  Unless building the nose to be removable from the rest of the model, only the three on the sidewalls at the front are visible once everything is assembled. 

    Wood grain was painted on my preferred method is using Rust Streaks wash for wood grain. Due to the light wood used in the HP cockpit, I mixed Light Dust wash with the Rust Streaks
    A darker mix of washes for wood grain in raised areas:

    Major components dry-fitted before adding tinted clear coat:

    Oil streaking after a flat coat (tamiya XF86) was sprayed:

    And finally, tinted clear coats sprayed over the wooden areas and a wash added:

  20. Like
    Fooesboy reacted to Shawn M in Why you build what you build?   
    I build whatever  makes me go "ooo that would be cool".
    That leads me to cars, ships, tanks, sci-fi, aircraft (all eras) etc
  21. Like
    Fooesboy reacted to HotWaffle in 1/32 WNW Pfalz D.IIIa   
    Hey all!
    I recently picked up the Wingnut Wings re-release of their Pfalz D.IIIa (my favorite WW1 airplane). This is my second WNW ann 1/32 kit, the first being a Roland C.II I built some months ago.
    I'll be making a Pfalz D.IIIa from Jasta 46. I've yet to decide between one with black and white bands or Rudolf Matthaei's Pfalz.
    Here is a skin I made of the 3-band skin for IL2: Flying Circus:

    and Matthaei's pfalz, which had black and white chevrons as a personal marking:

    My plan is to do as much of the internal piping and wiring as possible. I'll be leaving off all of the covers to show off as much detail as possible. To this end I'll be adding spark plugs, rocker arms and valve spring from Taurus models, LMG08s and turnbuckles from Gaspatch and white metal undercarriage parts from Scale Aircraft conversions. I've also got the decals from WNW's previous pfalz kit so I have various balkenkreuzes and serials to choose from.
    I started the build a week or two ago, so here is my progress so far.
    I put in lots of 0.3 and 0.5mm holes to accomodate for pipes and wire I'll be adding to the engine and interior.

    elevator, throttle and trigger cables added to the control stick:

    Interior frame and floor put together with fuel lines and grease pipe installed.

    The oil filter I made from a spare bit of landing gear.

    Air pump, fuel filter and various other pipes installed

    Interior weathering done by oil washes and splattering.

  22. Like
    Fooesboy reacted to kkarlsen in 'Flying Circus' - Jasta 11 (Diorama base)   
    The diorama base is sloooowly coming along... Here is o couple of pictures of it's status....




    Just poured the resin for some puddles on the road and the 'swampy' area with the cobble walkway.
  23. Like
    Fooesboy reacted to Iain in WingNut Wings Camel "Le Rhône"   
    Like many other modellers I've been quite taken by the WingNut Wings kits - and have been slowly collecting them over the years.
    Again, like I suspect with many others, they've just sat in the loft - with me putting off the day of reckoning where I actually have to rig a biplane - and with my prime interest being British and Commonwealth subjects - that's meant those 'orrible flat wires!! 
    Just before Christmas I invested in the various sizes of flat wires produced by Radu as part of his RB Productions range and, well, if I don't start one now, I'll keep putting it off...
    So, Ladies and Gentlepersons, I give you the start of my first foray into the world of WingNuts - the "Le Rhône" boxing of their excellent Camel.
    I have four Camels of various versions in the stash, so I figure I can cope with one being used as a 'test mule' to see how it comes out.
    Learning/gaining confidence as I go - so please be gentle.
    Currently playing with wood effects - oils over MRP Light Wood - before I dive into detail cockpit painting.




    Great fun so far - we'll see how long it lasts, eh?
  24. Like
    Fooesboy reacted to airscale in Highly Disappointed   
    I also rarely get involved when these issues periodically blow up, but that said, I do find it upsetting and can see members not only deciding to move on, but in some cases being encouraged to. That is part of the toxic rancour that these things bring to the surface, and is why moderation in of itself is not only needed but is the core DNA of this site..

    I have been here 10 years and it’s my second home. In participating I accept right from the outset that moderation is in the hands of a tight knit, well balanced sub-community who whether we like it or not, rightly have absolute power to keep our overall interaction with the site consistent, fair and free from diversion or conflict. Walk a mile in their shoes, it’s an unpaid, unappreciated overhead and these blow-ups just serve to inflame the obvious lack of appreciation of their efforts on the part of the bulk of the membership. That, in itself must be very hard to take and I feel for them

    I actually agree with many of the points about free discussion and that’s what a forum is for, but I also accept that moderators have THE authority on intervention even if it might smart a bit when it happens

    I think a standard closing statement would be a useful addition to the process and is a great suggestion and in some ways might help diffuse the emotions people feel if they feel slighted, or denied freedoms by the intervention

    Part of joining is accepting that higher authority…. part of participating is respecting it… and part of enjoying this as a place to hang out is being grateful for it…

    Please, I don’t want people to leave, we are all like minded participants in a hobby that in an insane world around us only serves to enrich our lives – try and stifle the emotion or frustration and accept LSP for what it is – we will all be the better for it if you can


  25. Like
    Fooesboy reacted to Thunnus in 1/32 Hasegawa Bf 109G-14 Hartmann Double Chevron   
    Hey guys!  With my G-6/AS wrapped up and me not exactly enjoying wrestling with the Ta152H build, I thought it would be a good opportunity to start on a new project.  I've had my eye on a G-14 and was originally planning on waiting for AMUR Reaver to produce a G-14 cowling for the Revell G-6 kit.  But a Hasegawa G-14 kit popped up on EBay with some interesting extras so I pounced on it and here we are!
    This is the kit and also a nice painting of the scheme that I will doing: Hartmann's white G-14 (or G-6).

    The kit was opened but not started yet and included a nice assortment of aftermarket stuff, which is shown below and will be delved into detail towards the end of this post.

    Here are the obligatory sprue shots.  The parts bags on this kit were still sealed.

    I'm going to use as few of the kit decals as possible.  I'll scan the sheet and create custom masks for the larger markings.

    Digging into the "extras" that came with this kit we find what looks to be an extra clear canopy part.  Always good to have spares when it comes to clear parts!

    These cream resin parts came in a Eagle Parts package labelled Fw 190A spinner and wide prop blades.  There was no spinner and I can't ID the prop blades except to say that they are not appropriate for my build.  The wheels look like the smooth hub late 109 type but I may not be able use them if the flattened part is not in the right spot.

    The resin exhausts seem to be a drop in fit for the Hasegawa fuselage so these will be used.

    Another surprise is a set of Hasegawa 109G/K wings with thewide wing bulges.  I'm pretty sure Hartman's G-14 featured the smaller bulges but it's a good option to have.

    This one is a mystery.  It looks like a resin cowling and spinner for an Avia S-199?

    A very small plastic baggy housed this MDC replacement tailwheel for the 109G. Very nicely molded!

    This cockpit is going to be fully loaded because I have TWO great sets for the interior.  One is the Eduard Photoetch Interior for the G-14 with a complete, multi-part assembly for the instrument panel.

    The other is the MDC G-14 resin cockpit set with lots of extra parts.  Only one cockpit floor but I count six sidewalls, three rear sills, and three central cannon breech covers in two styles.

    The instrument panel is resin and a decal for the instrument faces is provided.

    The resin molding on this MDC product is excellent!

    There is a photoetch fret that gives the builder the option of complete seat belts or just the buckles if the modeler wants to use a more flexible material like foil.  I may play with that option just to break away from the HGW belts I've been using all the time.

    MDC provides a two-page instruction sheet for the cockpit set.  Simple but thankfully legible.

    First step will be taking a closer look at the Eduard and MDC cockpit add-ons and try to determine which items from which set will be used in this build.
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