amcb10

Have heard some good things about this kit, will be watching this one in earnest.

Thank you for the replies, some things here for me to try. Currently saw an item about mixing the Tamiya flat base with Klear to achieve anything from a Satin to a Flat Matt (depending on the ratio) so will be giving that a go too.

Hi all, I have just got back into modelling after a 35 year break and bought an airbrush etc. Can anyone recommend a good Matt and Gloss varnish that is airbrush friendly? I don't mind having to thin it using Alcohol or Water so hopefully it opens up the options a bit. I have already bought some Klear for the decal stage. It will need to be water based and also if anyone can suggest a good retarder to use. Thanks for the help.

You may find THIS helpful.

Hi Brian Until I saw your post, it never occurred to me to leave the core in place but in doing so gives the method a lot more scope and I will be using it in the near future so thanks for sharing. I also forgot to mention, for the retaining straps and jubilee clips, I have bought some of the plumbers aluminium tape which has a good shine to it and a good sticky back. As it is Aluminium based, it is easy to tarnish with various household cleaners and also accepts paint easily too (rub with alcohol first). Just cut into thin strips and you have instant Jubilee Clips, Retaining Straps, Oil connectors etc. I have also tried using it to BMF a test kit I have, and although it is slightly thicker than using foil, I think it will work for limited pieces that require a shine to the part. Hope this helps. Andy

Seems it is almost identical, the only difference is I remove the internal wire which is why I coat with varnish to give it some rigidity and also so the spring takes on the stretched look.

As you can see in this picture, although not as clear as I wanted to get you will get the idea. I took a piece of solder wire and held it between 2 gator clips (tightly). Then I took a strand of wire from a piece of cable 7/0.2 so the strand was 0.2mm and carefully wound it around the solder. I then carefully removed it and gave it a coat of clear varnish so it held its shape and can be easily handled. The good part about this method is you can cut to length and use the ends to bend into hooks etc to attach to whatever you need. I use it for aerial connectors, undercarriage springs etc but I am sure it will have other uses. Hope this helps.

That is just AWESOME, probably the best Wildcat I have ever seen, the detailing is out of this world. Well done.

Thanks for the kind comments, was good to get back into the hobby again.

Hi all This is my first post on here and have just got back into modelling after a 35 year break so the last time I actually built a model there was no paint, just the kit and decals on (didn't know any better). I recently received a 1/24 scale Spitfire (Airfix) as a present but after inspecting the kit and seeing the amount of flash on it, I simply had to email Airfix and complain. As a result of this email, they kindly sent me a 1/48 BF109 kit and I was told it has been made using brand new tooling. So I decided to use this kit as a get to know my new airbrush and old skills and hoped they were still there. Next on the list to build is Eduards BF109-E1 ProfiPACK which has already been primed and the office painted but thats another post. So without further ado I present to you my first finished model in 30 years, hope it is acceptable. Any comments are appreciated, just bear in mind it is my first model in 30 years and I have tried a lot of new things out, namely, airbrush, Micro Sol / Set, Weathering etc. Andy

For someone who says there a "Newbie" these are great.

That is one awesome plane.

Awesome looking Falcon.

They work great, same as there airbrush range, also good.

Lit ones look like the real thing, brilliant.