ChuckT

Sounds good. I also discovered my orange handled Xuron cutters make a pretty clean cut.

I want to cut some soft copper wire that is .3mm in diameter (pretty thin). Normally I would just use a wire cutter to cut it, but the problem with the wire cutter is it leaves the end all crimped and smooshed! Does anyone out there have a good method for cutting wire this thin that leaves the end relatively square and not sqaushed? Thanks in advance, chuckT.

Fantastic! Great looking 262.

I am wanting to attempt figure paiting using acrylics but my problem is the paint mixes called for require pretty precise amounts to get the exact shades I need. One of the mixes calls for as little as 2% of a certain colour! I usually use a pippete or dropper for mixing paints (for airbrish work) and it has served me well, but I dont think it will cut it in this circumstance. The only way I can figure to mix things this precisely is by using a small scale and calculating paint volume by weight. Is there an better way to do this, or would an accurate scale that you can zero to remove the wieght of the mixing vessel be the best/most accurate method here? Thanks in advance, Chuck.

I agree! Let's keep our fingers crossed that we eventually see one in 1/32.

I read somewhere else that kitty hawk is toying with the idea of a 1/32 voodoo sometime in the future!

Great info. Thats does make sense. Thanks for sharing. I too have a modified paint pot that is able to handle pressure and vacuum. Now if only I could find some time to do some model building!

Very cool!

Sounds great! I would be very interested in what you have to offer in 1/32. Looking forward to it, Chuck.

Would love a 1/32 Do 335. Dragon made some rumblings a while back about offering one, but it seems to be dead.

Great ideas guys! Thanks for sharing, Chuck.

I have those strips but they don't offer the sizes I need. Thanks though!

I want to try and make a female mold in resin of bolt heads to then press a heated sprue into. This would hopefully give me a male plastic bolt head which I could then slice off of the cooled down sprue and use with regular plastic cement in adding extra detail to what ever I may be working on. My question is, do you think this will work and will the resin mold have any issues with hot sprue being pressed into it? I know there used to be a company who made some metal molds for this purpose, but they seem to be long out of bussiness and the molds impossible to find. What do you guys think?

Its a 1/32 birdcage Corsair! This is from hobby link Japan. I dont think they would put out B.S. Check it out: http://www.hlj.com/product/TAM60324

Sorry guys for the lack of updates on this. Was away with the wife for spring break and now work and family are taking up much of my time. I hope to get a little done on the W.4 this week. As soon as I have something wrorth sharing, I will be sure to do so.

Yes I am. I have used both gunze mr leveling thinner and gianotes thinner with regular Tamiya paint and achieved great results. It gives a super smooth surface that adheres well and drys hard. Good stuff!

The new WNW Fokker kit is available for purchase, along with a set of extra markings. Looks good!

I'm sure you kow this already, but have you tried airbrishing regular Tamiya paint with lacquer? Lays down VERY nice and non of the hassle of decanting.

Georgeous Wolfe! Looking forward to the next update, Chuck.

Hey guys. Just to confirm, WNW has now changed its tune and DOES indeed have a sopwiith camel in development! It seems all the talk on the forums from those of us for whome only WNW will do has had an effect and the will now be offering one in the future. In a published interview with WNW (I beleive it was Richard Alexander) they stated that the camel is in the works and will probably be out in a few years. Let's hope they eventually offer a Foker Dr.I as well as a Junkers D.I (along with a whole bunch of ther cools planes from that era). Good times indeed!

Looking fantastic as always Wolfe. I can't wait for the next update, Chuck.

I have read that some guys have had issues with thier primed master parts, reacting with the mold silicone when they cast the master to then copy. Has anyone heard of this and if so, do you know a way to prevent bad things from happeneing?

Looking forward to the next update Wolfe.

Thanks guys. I'm getting there slowly but surely.

Sorry for taking so long to post any updates. Family, work, travel... it all seems to take up so much time and leave so little for the hobby bench, but I'm sure I'm not the only one who knows about all this! I have been able to install the walkway strips on the top surface from .02" by .02" strip and the wear strips underneath from .02" by .04". Pretty finicky, but I think it turned out pretty good. I then installed the remaining walkway strips and threw down a coat of primer. What do you guys think? It just needs the drain caps finished up and installed, then I can move onto the wings or maybe the engine. Not sure what I'll do next, but I have a yearning to get to something that I can paint and finish. Feel free to post your comments.