Skybouncer

I hate factory clean-non weathered-without a scratch-toy bird builts with just one surface color. So I already love your weathered Stang/Merlin Engine.. Will follow this build closely ;-) Liebe Grüsse Jerry

They made a almost perfect Stang in Two smaller scales. Why the heck should they do an epic fail with this scale? The Box Art says nothing. Its not a blueprint. I think we´re going to see the kit all of us Stang-Lovers have been waiting for for so long. A well engineered and mostly accurate Shake and Bake Mustang in 1/32 from Tamiya. Hopefully it doesnt glow in the dark... Liebe Grüße Jerry

Finally... Hurrrrra!! Na endlich! I hope Tamiya does better than dragon and Trumpeter, but this is not very difficult ;-) If the stang turns out the same way like the spit, it is MY kit of the century. YESSSSS! Btw: Anyone interessted in a Trump P-51D with lots of aftermarket stuff? ;-)

Hi Franck, Beautiful Stang, really B E A U T I F U L ! Its good to see a finished Mustang here in the end, there are some Stang builds in here with superdetail and error corrections whatever, but your P-51 just looks pretty much like a stang even without all the fuzz. Good work! This encourages me to get my Trump D out after finishing the Typhoon... Cheers Jerry

Hi James, is this beauty still unfinished? Would love to see a pic of her completed! I´m pretty sure she looks darn good! Cheers Jerry

Chris, for me the Dirty Job is the best part on finishing a model What can you do? To start with, you can - as you suggested - make a light washing with a dark brown mix over the markings. The white is TOO White. You could also spray a verrrry diluted mix of the base color, tinted with a little brown, over it. Next are exhaust smoke, gun smoke etc. Mist a slight layer over the desired area. You can partial rub it away again with one of jays miracle polishers (polishing over rivets or little details is also a way for me to create wear away)or with a piece of an old sponge. That leaves realistic scratches in the dirt. Same process on the wingroots (with buff or a darker earth color), where the pilots and Bodenwarte walk around on the wing. Also rub away some of the still fresh color. You can also mask areas with liquid mask applied with a sponge, spray a lighter or darker base color over it, remove the liquid mask and apply micro oil washes or nuance it with thinned Valleyo Acrylics or Valleyo Air. Filters with Abteilung 502 oil colors are also suggested on camouflaged paintschemes. Simply applying mig pigments and fix with Terpentin are also a way to dirty up wheelwells, wingwalks, gear, belly (take a paintbrush, load it with terpentin and pigments, hold it in against the airflow near gear or near the Spornrad and spray throughtwith the airbrush. Voilá, you have a nice muddy dirt pattern. There are so many more ways of dirty up and weather planes, I´m sure you´ll find the right ways for you Chris. But you know, weniger ist mehr! Liebe Grüße Jerry

... und jetzt kommt der schönste Teil: VERDRECKEN!!! Nice build, looking forward to see the clean colors blended together after the weathering. Liebe Grüße Jerry

Wow, that look´s very promising. You can obviously build AND paint good. Not every one does both well enough to produce a winner, but... Yes, YOU CAN! Looking forward to see the Junkers finished. Liebe Grüße Jerry

Wundervoll! Can´t wait to see the Schwalbe on her legs! Your Stressed Skin comes out very good. Looking forward to see the whole thing painted. LG Jerry

Is the black of the "Anti-Glare" stripe and the Cowling to glossy? On Original photos it looked different than the flat and faded black of the ID Stripes on the Rudder and the Invasion Stripes. Anyway, I tuned the glossy finish back a bit by applying some heavy diluted Micro Scale flat and dust with mig pigments. Comments welcome! Cheers Jerry

Go go go! This Bird is halfway done, and you did a wonderful job so far! I´m sure she will look fantastic with a NMF, also your rivets will come out much better then. I have the MDC Typhoon, and she suffers from similiar issues. Can be really frustrating to fix, but in the end your work will be credited with a real winner. Keep up the good work! Flaps up Jerry

Thanks guys, will do my best to stay at this LSP stuff @Ads: Down-Under Style is for sure same quality mate! Only Difference: Your Pilots drink fosters our´s drink Stiegl @Kev: Ah, a Dino Fan... well, cause I didnt get the long sold out Horizon T-Rex , I ordered a slight smaller copy of it over ebay from Thailand. Search for T-Rex Vinyl Jurassic Park, you´ll find it. Its the same T-Rex style like in Jurassic park. Model made by Stan Winston Studios. Of course the Horizon one is bigger and the quality is better, but with a little care you can make a real eyecatcher out of this copy. I heavily modified the model and altered the complete foot and arm position from standing to a running positon. All thats left to do now is to make the base an apply the color... If you want to build one: Order taxidermy eyes (Van Dyke) for it, it makes a REAL difference. Like Aires Cockpit compared to Out of Box... Liebe Grüße Jerry

Hey Gang! After some nightshifts I managed to get the T-Bolt onto her legs. It now 99% ready, just the antenna wire and right side open Handhold missing. As this is my first 1/32 scale Model, I´m proud that I managed to build it (almost) without great problems. I like the weathering on this big beasts, think I will sell my 48 stash quickly now Here are some pics, more to follow. PLEASE tell me what you think! (I know I made some errors, but they´re minor) I hope you like it! Btw: Only the nose art and the Data Sheet is a decal, stencils are Dry Transfers, Markings are from MONTEX. It´s NOT the Trump Kit, it´s the Hase, stressed skinned, riveted. Ruders cut out, Cooler Flaps, Cowling Fasteners, some Panels and Vent Doors out of Soda Can Alu. Guns are Hasegawa Brass painted with Alclad and Black. Tire profile deepened by a razor saw, but all the dirt (Mig Pigments, Iso Prop and some Micro Gloss) I applied made it invisible again Drop tank borrowed from Trump-Mustang. Big Thanks again to KAGNEW for the Trumpeter Prop! (the Curtiss Paddle type one wasn´t in the Hase-Box) Good that I got my Miliput-Teeth last week! A Bull for lunch! *mmmmmhhh* Cheers Jerry

Thanks Kev, to bad Radu´s new wonder-weapon didn´t arrive in time to save me from the one-punch-one-rivet session. But on the next NMF Fighter it will come in handy. Edit: Well, after looking at this tool, it dont seems it also makes circles. It makes nice Round HOLES, but not Circles. The MDC Tool punches circles. You have an O not just a hole. You see? Cheers Jerry

Thank you guys, I´m looking forward to present you the finished bird as soon as possible @Chris: The stressed skin technique i used on the T-Bolt is the same Klaus Herold used on his Dora. It´s quite simple. Take a Rivet Plan from your object of desire, copy it to 1/32 scale and mark the lines on your model with some kind of textmarker (I used a divider to transfer the correct span to the model) Then, using a fresh scalpel, rasp some material away from the lines, depending on how intense the stressed skin should look there. Dont overdo it. 4-5 streaks are normally enough. Then, if you finished the rasping on the part completely, take 600-1000 grade water proof sandpaper and sand it wet with lots of water until its free of scratches and looks ok for you. After this treatment I used Jay´s EXCELLENT Master Casters sanding sticks and the Miracle Shiner to bring the parts to an mirror like gloss. It works fantastic and very fast with the Miracle Shiner. Dont know what I would do without that stuff. Well, if you finished this part, you can again transfer the rivet lines from your plan onto the model, they should now be right in the middle of your stressed skin marks of course. For making the rivets I used MDC´s 1/32 rivet marker. This means, you have to punch every single rivet into the plastic with an Rivet Ruler/Spacer and this tool. You can imagine how long this takes, can you? Jamie Haggis did it also on his Jug i think. It´s easier to use a Riveter, but this dont makes the nice round circle like rivets like the MDC Tool. If you intend to build a Plane with Natural Metal Finish, use the MDC Tool, its much more visible then. Polish the surface of the riveted part with the sanders (600 and shiner) and prime it with future (then redo the polishing). Voilá, some weeks later you have a nice looking, stressed skinned but yet unassembled model. You could of course also built an entire 1/32 scale model OOB in this time... Before you apply the metal color of your choice, prime the whole stuff with future (of course polish it before and after ). I polished it again some 30 mins after spraying the Alclad (yes, this stuff dries so quickly). You see, Polishing is the key here Did this help you? Liebe Grüße aus Wien Jerry

Spent some hours on the first Alclad Shades today/tonight. The Beast comes to live! During the holidays I also had time for painting and weathering the bombs and the prop and to prepare some other small parts. I think my first 1/32 model could be ready in some weeks Spraying the markings (Montex masks) and the black anti-glare Stripes on the back and the cowling are next on the to-do List. Hope you like it. (I put the Cowling on just for the pic, it´s not glued yet) Btw, Alclad over Future works fantastic on hasegawa plastic. I tried to spray it on the bare, polished plastic, but it peels of again while masking with tamiya tape. When primed with Future, Alclad bonds to it nicely. Cheers from Austria Jerry

Hey Guys, I found this baby on Amazon.de today for the price of 32,98 Euro, Shipping included! Here´s da link: http://www.amazon.de/exec/obidos/ASIN/B001...=A3JWKAKR8XB7XF Seems like it will be shipped on October 13, so just 12 days left until I´ll have it to collect in my postoffice (wont fit in the letterbox I guess ) Cheers Jerry

Thanks for the warm welcome guys. I hope I can show you some progress soon. Next task on the list is to join the fuselage halves, fill and sand all joints on the back and bottom and to detail those weel wells... @ Haggis: You assume right, this is going to be a 9th AF Workhorse in NMF, "Snortin´Bull" to be exact. Ride of "Hoss" Mullins, CO of the 507th FS in mid 1944. Have the montex super masks for the Insignia and Code Letters and the LSP Dry Transfers for the little stencils. Cheers, Jerry

One more pic of the stabilizer in better light: The Bombs. Started to rough the surface up with some nitro and Surfacer: And, last but not least, the rear end of my T-Bolt: As you can see I cut off the rudder again, trying to pose it with a little drive. And again a poor try to show you the Stressed Skin effect on the frame. Well, have to figure out to show it better, as it was a very long session (was on the edge of getting insane) for making this. Hope you like it so far. Maybe you have some Hints for me what I could make better on my next build (maybe MDC Tiffy) Cheers from Vienna Jerry

Here are some more pics of the already painted parts of the Jug: Here you can also see that I took some artistic license for the details behind the Cooling flaps Still some details missing, but painted it will look good I hope. What I may have to change is the guiding I installed for the Canopy. The main Gas lever on the left is vanishing behind it Have to take away some more plastic on the fuselage side and rearange it. Or should I leave it this way?... The Engine. Just some lead wire and some little scale nuts were added. Wire still has to be glued on on the ring. A small piece of painted Red Bull Can Alu was also glued onto the right side to duplicate the data plate. Here´s da Seat: Belts are scratched out of Alu Foil, Buckles by Technics (Meteor) More Pix in next post....

Hello and Servus to all of you, fellow LSP-Members! after some years of messin´ around in 1/48 and 1/72, the glourious moment has come, finally, where I can post into this forum to My friend Klaus H has infected me with the LSP Virus, and now I dont want to be cured anymore. I sold half of my stash and changed it to a little but growing fleet of (mostly) Hasegawa 1/32 Props. It was last summer when I started on this T-Bolt. Got it right after I was available here in Vienna. Originally I was about to build an P-51D as it is my favourite Warbird (inspired by Super Mario´s excellent Swiss Stang Rollout), but after I recognised what I would have to change on the Hase Model, I decided to try onto a more recent release (but the Stang is still on my "To-Do" List, now i have the Trump as well...). The Jug was released just in time for me to start into the 1/32 universe. Well, it took a little while to finish all the parts to the point where I was ready to put ´em together finally. Also i had to move in my first own appartement with my girlfriend, thus causes some rapid decrease of precious building time But now with the next winter to come, the building season starts again. Most of you have probably seen Klaus H´s Dora and Salamander Building Topic in this forum. He´s a master when it comes to scratch small details, as are many other LSP Members who are posting their builds here. After watching him build his models for some months, I couldn´t resist to at least try for some scratch details or modifications on my first model. Alan´s T-Bolt Build encouraged me also and set the level higher for all other Jug Lovers Well, enough with words, lets start with the pics for your viewing pleasure The two Airframe-Halves are not joined yet, i just sticked them together for test fitting of the pit. Cowling is already glued together, missing only the engine. Original Hase Instrument Panel. Some MDC Decals and punched out Instrument from the Hase Decal were used along with some 1/48 and 1/32 colored PE. Glass is displayed with the white Micro Scale Stuff which´s name dont come to my mind right now... The rivets where made with the MDC Riveting Tool, each rivet was punched separate (after scribing a stressed skin effect onto the whole airframe with a scalpel blade and sanding with Mastercaster Polishing Sticks) You can see the effect on some photos later in this topic. The Cooling Flaps were made out of RED BULL Can Alu. One of my most favourite materials to work with. Especially after I emptied the can myself before. (Red Bull verleiht Flüüüügeeeel! ) Also some panels on the frame and the fasteners on the cowling where made out of it. Here a try to capture the stressed skin effect on the wings: And here one of the Stabilizers. Ruders cut out and rearanged of course... Cockpit and Engine Pics in the next post... hope you like my first 1/32 so far.

Hi Brad, hm, how long did u wait for the primary coat of paint to cure until you used the masks on it? Never had that happen to me, also with Alcald as surface for the masks. I´m perfectly happy with them. Can u make a photo of the part where this marks occure? A picture often says more than words Liebe Grüße Jerry

Hi Brad, I´ve used Montex Super Masks on a couple of (AlcladII over enamel gloss-black)Stangs so far and also had some slight residues after removing them (but not a single time the paint came off witht the masks). Got rid of them with a wet cleenex I´m also polishing the airbrushed markings with 3200 and sometimes even 2000 grid micromesh to weather them a little and take some paint away again to simulate wear. Works excellent and looks nice. Cant do that with decals You can remove the residues also with that technique. Cheers Jerry

All you need is to keep an eye on Ironwing´s P-51 D Build in the "Members Builds" Section. If you are willing to make just half of the changes he does with his Kitbash-Stang, you´ll get a perfect P-51 replica. Horrido Jerry

Yup, just needed a dremel rotary tool with a little cutting bit and some patience But make sure you dont inhalate the resin dust Cheers Jerry