Jump to content

Skybouncer

LSP_Members
  • Posts

    31
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Skybouncer

  • Birthday 11/13/1977

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.rlm.at

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    St.Pölten, Austria

Recent Profile Visitors

750 profile views
  1. I hate factory clean-non weathered-without a scratch-toy bird builts with just one surface color. So I already love your weathered Stang/Merlin Engine.. Will follow this build closely ;-) Liebe Grüsse Jerry
  2. They made a almost perfect Stang in Two smaller scales. Why the heck should they do an epic fail with this scale? The Box Art says nothing. Its not a blueprint. I think we´re going to see the kit all of us Stang-Lovers have been waiting for for so long. A well engineered and mostly accurate Shake and Bake Mustang in 1/32 from Tamiya. Hopefully it doesnt glow in the dark... Liebe Grüße Jerry
  3. Finally... Hurrrrra!! Na endlich! I hope Tamiya does better than dragon and Trumpeter, but this is not very difficult ;-) If the stang turns out the same way like the spit, it is MY kit of the century. YESSSSS! Btw: Anyone interessted in a Trump P-51D with lots of aftermarket stuff? ;-)
  4. Hi Franck, Beautiful Stang, really B E A U T I F U L ! Its good to see a finished Mustang here in the end, there are some Stang builds in here with superdetail and error corrections whatever, but your P-51 just looks pretty much like a stang even without all the fuzz. Good work! This encourages me to get my Trump D out after finishing the Typhoon... Cheers Jerry
  5. Hi James, is this beauty still unfinished? Would love to see a pic of her completed! I´m pretty sure she looks darn good! Cheers Jerry
  6. Chris, for me the Dirty Job is the best part on finishing a model What can you do? To start with, you can - as you suggested - make a light washing with a dark brown mix over the markings. The white is TOO White. You could also spray a verrrry diluted mix of the base color, tinted with a little brown, over it. Next are exhaust smoke, gun smoke etc. Mist a slight layer over the desired area. You can partial rub it away again with one of jays miracle polishers (polishing over rivets or little details is also a way for me to create wear away)or with a piece of an old sponge. That leaves realistic scratches in the dirt. Same process on the wingroots (with buff or a darker earth color), where the pilots and Bodenwarte walk around on the wing. Also rub away some of the still fresh color. You can also mask areas with liquid mask applied with a sponge, spray a lighter or darker base color over it, remove the liquid mask and apply micro oil washes or nuance it with thinned Valleyo Acrylics or Valleyo Air. Filters with Abteilung 502 oil colors are also suggested on camouflaged paintschemes. Simply applying mig pigments and fix with Terpentin are also a way to dirty up wheelwells, wingwalks, gear, belly (take a paintbrush, load it with terpentin and pigments, hold it in against the airflow near gear or near the Spornrad and spray throughtwith the airbrush. Voilá, you have a nice muddy dirt pattern. There are so many more ways of dirty up and weather planes, I´m sure you´ll find the right ways for you Chris. But you know, weniger ist mehr! Liebe Grüße Jerry
  7. ... und jetzt kommt der schönste Teil: VERDRECKEN!!! Nice build, looking forward to see the clean colors blended together after the weathering. Liebe Grüße Jerry
  8. Wow, that look´s very promising. You can obviously build AND paint good. Not every one does both well enough to produce a winner, but... Yes, YOU CAN! Looking forward to see the Junkers finished. Liebe Grüße Jerry
  9. Wundervoll! Can´t wait to see the Schwalbe on her legs! Your Stressed Skin comes out very good. Looking forward to see the whole thing painted. LG Jerry
  10. Is the black of the "Anti-Glare" stripe and the Cowling to glossy? On Original photos it looked different than the flat and faded black of the ID Stripes on the Rudder and the Invasion Stripes. Anyway, I tuned the glossy finish back a bit by applying some heavy diluted Micro Scale flat and dust with mig pigments. Comments welcome! Cheers Jerry
  11. Go go go! This Bird is halfway done, and you did a wonderful job so far! I´m sure she will look fantastic with a NMF, also your rivets will come out much better then. I have the MDC Typhoon, and she suffers from similiar issues. Can be really frustrating to fix, but in the end your work will be credited with a real winner. Keep up the good work! Flaps up Jerry
  12. Thanks guys, will do my best to stay at this LSP stuff @Ads: Down-Under Style is for sure same quality mate! Only Difference: Your Pilots drink fosters our´s drink Stiegl @Kev: Ah, a Dino Fan... well, cause I didnt get the long sold out Horizon T-Rex , I ordered a slight smaller copy of it over ebay from Thailand. Search for T-Rex Vinyl Jurassic Park, you´ll find it. Its the same T-Rex style like in Jurassic park. Model made by Stan Winston Studios. Of course the Horizon one is bigger and the quality is better, but with a little care you can make a real eyecatcher out of this copy. I heavily modified the model and altered the complete foot and arm position from standing to a running positon. All thats left to do now is to make the base an apply the color... If you want to build one: Order taxidermy eyes (Van Dyke) for it, it makes a REAL difference. Like Aires Cockpit compared to Out of Box... Liebe Grüße Jerry
  13. Hey Gang! After some nightshifts I managed to get the T-Bolt onto her legs. It now 99% ready, just the antenna wire and right side open Handhold missing. As this is my first 1/32 scale Model, I´m proud that I managed to build it (almost) without great problems. I like the weathering on this big beasts, think I will sell my 48 stash quickly now Here are some pics, more to follow. PLEASE tell me what you think! (I know I made some errors, but they´re minor) I hope you like it! Btw: Only the nose art and the Data Sheet is a decal, stencils are Dry Transfers, Markings are from MONTEX. It´s NOT the Trump Kit, it´s the Hase, stressed skinned, riveted. Ruders cut out, Cooler Flaps, Cowling Fasteners, some Panels and Vent Doors out of Soda Can Alu. Guns are Hasegawa Brass painted with Alclad and Black. Tire profile deepened by a razor saw, but all the dirt (Mig Pigments, Iso Prop and some Micro Gloss) I applied made it invisible again Drop tank borrowed from Trump-Mustang. Big Thanks again to KAGNEW for the Trumpeter Prop! (the Curtiss Paddle type one wasn´t in the Hase-Box) Good that I got my Miliput-Teeth last week! A Bull for lunch! *mmmmmhhh* Cheers Jerry
  14. Thanks Kev, to bad Radu´s new wonder-weapon didn´t arrive in time to save me from the one-punch-one-rivet session. But on the next NMF Fighter it will come in handy. Edit: Well, after looking at this tool, it dont seems it also makes circles. It makes nice Round HOLES, but not Circles. The MDC Tool punches circles. You have an O not just a hole. You see? Cheers Jerry
  15. Thank you guys, I´m looking forward to present you the finished bird as soon as possible @Chris: The stressed skin technique i used on the T-Bolt is the same Klaus Herold used on his Dora. It´s quite simple. Take a Rivet Plan from your object of desire, copy it to 1/32 scale and mark the lines on your model with some kind of textmarker (I used a divider to transfer the correct span to the model) Then, using a fresh scalpel, rasp some material away from the lines, depending on how intense the stressed skin should look there. Dont overdo it. 4-5 streaks are normally enough. Then, if you finished the rasping on the part completely, take 600-1000 grade water proof sandpaper and sand it wet with lots of water until its free of scratches and looks ok for you. After this treatment I used Jay´s EXCELLENT Master Casters sanding sticks and the Miracle Shiner to bring the parts to an mirror like gloss. It works fantastic and very fast with the Miracle Shiner. Dont know what I would do without that stuff. Well, if you finished this part, you can again transfer the rivet lines from your plan onto the model, they should now be right in the middle of your stressed skin marks of course. For making the rivets I used MDC´s 1/32 rivet marker. This means, you have to punch every single rivet into the plastic with an Rivet Ruler/Spacer and this tool. You can imagine how long this takes, can you? Jamie Haggis did it also on his Jug i think. It´s easier to use a Riveter, but this dont makes the nice round circle like rivets like the MDC Tool. If you intend to build a Plane with Natural Metal Finish, use the MDC Tool, its much more visible then. Polish the surface of the riveted part with the sanders (600 and shiner) and prime it with future (then redo the polishing). Voilá, some weeks later you have a nice looking, stressed skinned but yet unassembled model. You could of course also built an entire 1/32 scale model OOB in this time... Before you apply the metal color of your choice, prime the whole stuff with future (of course polish it before and after ). I polished it again some 30 mins after spraying the Alclad (yes, this stuff dries so quickly). You see, Polishing is the key here Did this help you? Liebe Grüße aus Wien Jerry
×
×
  • Create New...