Bruce

too bad,,I guess that would be too easy. Maybe one of the followers can do masters in 1/32 3D CAD drawings and give the drawings to anyone that wants to take on the task. Engines shouldn't be a problem. Techniks made a great R-2800 with all the variations.

It would appear that HobbyBoss either used Doug Feeney's ID Models vacform A-26 as a master or the same plans that Doug used. You can fit the HB fuselage into the vacform fuselage and the wing area matches. BTW does anyone know if the hard points for the ordnance came form some other aircraft or were made for the A-26. If they came from another aircraft, i.e. F-100, maybe they exist in 1/32 scale and could be easily copied. They all appear to be the same so if someone wants to make an original I'd be glad to make a mold and cast them for anyone wanting to do the conversion. Also, we have an executive A-26in the Robins Museum just 30 minutes down the road from me. Bruce

You mentioned that you have lots of 1/32 models…Bid you by any chance by one of the 1/32 ID Models B-29?

One of the fixes you'll need to adress is the canopy. The only F-15 that had a tinted canopy was the demonstration a/c, the box top one you have. Revell issued the kit at one point with a clear canopy and so did Revell of Germany. Bruce (from Parts-R-Parts)

Alex, have you thought about the possibility of selling your drawings so that others might try the build? Bruce

your large scary project is looking good. I'm working on a LSP of my own, 1/32 ID Models B-29 vacform! Bruce

my bad on verbage. Like I said, this is something that nobody seems to notice Bruce

there is a 3D printing outfit that could do the gear in stainless steal. Xometry.com They do great work. you send the drawing and they will give a quote online. If you use them,tell them I sent you Bruce Radebaugh I'm having them do a 1/32 B-29 cockpit (nose to pressure bulkhead.

So, what I did was to cut under the canopy rail of the Revell RF kit and graft a resin copy of the Tamiya canopy rail area to the Revell kit. I made resin copies of the canopy frames from Tamiya and bought some Tamiya clear parts. I had done the same thing on a Revell F-4 kit. See my build

The other issue I can't figure out is how they got the size of the horizontal stabs wrong. If you compare the Revell and Tamiya stabs you'll see that the Revell stabs from the RF-4 (non slatted stab) are about 1/8th inch larger. Compare the the Revell F-4E stab to the Tamiya F-4J (both are slatted) and you'll see they are the same. The C/D stab in real life is the same size as an E, the only difference is the E/J stabs had the leading edge modified with slats. I've measured a real unslatted stab and Revells is spot on while the Tamiya is too short. Bruce

I don't think it would be too hard to scale up a 1/48 version and use a couple Revell or Hasegawa kits. Bruce

take a look at the Revell M/MF kit. I think you can take the tail and canopy from it and mate it to a Revell PF kit and get what you want. there are a couple of the kits on ebay. contact me via message about some other items you could use. Bruce

the problem isn't the seats, its the width of the Revell tub. compare it to the Tamiya tub. The walls need to be moved in about the width of the plastic. You can check me on this but on the B and D model the throttles are aligned, your throttles need to be moved to the right. look at http://partsrparts.homestead.com/start.html contact me Bruce

beware of the canopy raising part it is way too short to get the canopy open at the right angle Bruce

When everyone was talking about the wing, I might have missed it, but has anyone compared the old Combat Models(I think) vacform wing to the Hobby Boss wing to see if it is any better? Bruce

is there a website that shows in progress pictures of the build? I've been to Douglas twice during the build and even held a part in place while Tom Riley secured it with a screw. I didn't take the time to take pics. Bruce

Harold's seats look nice but unless I'm mistaken, the parachute pack on the front and rear seat should be on opposite sides. SAC would be the ones to contact about making metal gear , or Ernie Gee at G-factor Bruce

I'm back. I've been trying to figure out what I wanted to do about the exhaust area. I wasn't happy with the kit exhaust and I couldn't find any aftermarket exhaust replacements made for the Hasegawa kit for the early PW F100 engines. (of course someone will probably tell me about some after this post). I did some test fitting with some other kits and decided that the tail area of the Tamiya kit was clse enough that with a little sanding to contour the part in, a set made for the Tamiya kit would work. I ordered the KASL Hobby set and am very pleased. I've started painting them and with a little squeezing and some super glue I attached them and sanded the seam. I can now continue with the rest of the build.

I finally got my cockpits done. I used two True Details resin sets and modified and painted them. I added some details for the rudders and a gear handle in each tub.

Here is what I'm starting with. I cut out the area for the second seat years ago and stopped because I wasn't sure about how the cockpits should go. this is what I want to end up with, a B model from Luke circa '80s. I finished cutting the second seat area and building the back area using the Academy kit as a guide since I'm going to use the clear canopy from their D model kit. I used the leftover piece from my SUFA and the instrument shrouds from two True Details F-16A resin sets. The nose wheel well is the AIRES part, modified to fit, leftover from my F-16F build since I used a Zotz intake that had the wheel well. I used the kit intake tunnel and cleaned up the seam. With some careful sanding I was able to slide the nose well in whe I inserted the intake. The main gear well is the kit piece with some leftover SUFA parts added and I'll add some wiring and hydraulic lines. Here are the early stages of the cockpits. They are 2 True Detail resin sets. I've modified the rear tub by cutting it down, making a new rear wall, and modifying the instrument panel to an early B model configuration. more to follow

I'm on to my next adventure in F-16s. Years ago I started to modify a 1/32 Hasegawa F-16A (kit 100) to a 2 seater but quit because I wasn't sure what the tub relationship was between the front and rear seats. I had blown up a set of plans and cutthe fuselage for the second seat and had started to make a mold for the canopy and that is where I quit. When Academy came out with theirs it answered all my questions. I was almost "right on" with my fuselage cut. So I've decided to complete my conversion using parts from my SUFA kit, True Detail cockpits, and some other parts. I'm going to do a B model that Gen. Robert L. Scott Jr. flew in back in the '80s at Luke. If anyone out there was stationed at Luke at that time and has any photos or further info I'd love to see them Bruce

OK, here I am with my fix. I wanted to get the appearance like this: I cut off my original nozzles leaving the ring from the P&W pedals leaving this I then assembled the GE parts and cut of the ring on the bottom and painted the new nozzle piece combined the two parts and mounted them back in the model now I'm much happier with the appearance of the exhaust area. Bruce

Well I thought I was done but...something was bugging me about the exhausts. I had followed the kit instructions for the SUFA exhausts but I just couldn't get the pedals to look right, they didn't look like the GE exhausts. There are 2 sets of exhaust sets in the kit, one for the wide mouth and one for the small mouth. Since I used a ZOTZ large mouth resin replacement I didn't have to follow the kit instructions for the intake and so I just followed the exhaust instructions. The kit only gives one set of instructions and calls for only those part numbers and ignores the other set of exhaust parts. Well something was wrong... I have Academy's single seat kit and it has exactly the same parts in it for bot exhausts, however, the single seat kit specific instructions for wide mouth and small mouth parts. the bottom set of exhaust instructions are what are printed in the SUFA kit (oh and BTW the same for their F-16D instructions) but they don't have the little note that says P&W engine but those are the part numbers they tell you to use on the kit! No wonder they didn't look right to me! The reason for not mentioning the large mouth parts is that both the SUFA and Korean D are small mouth jets. So, I had only tacked the exhaust onto my model so I broke it loose and am modifying it again. If you have bought an Aires or GT resin replacement exhaust you're OK. However if you use the kit intake the parts called for are for the small mouth. BEWARE if you are doing an F they are GE engines thus different exhausts. more later with pics when I finish my modifications. Bruce