Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by Bruce

  1. there is a 3D printing outfit that could do the gear in stainless steal. Xometry.com They do great work. you send the drawing and they will give a quote online. If you use them,tell them I sent you Bruce Radebaugh I'm having them do a 1/32 B-29 cockpit (nose to pressure bulkhead.
  2. So, what I did was to cut under the canopy rail of the Revell RF kit and graft a resin copy of the Tamiya canopy rail area to the Revell kit. I made resin copies of the canopy frames from Tamiya and bought some Tamiya clear parts. I had done the same thing on a Revell F-4 kit. See my build
  3. The other issue I can't figure out is how they got the size of the horizontal stabs wrong. If you compare the Revell and Tamiya stabs you'll see that the Revell stabs from the RF-4 (non slatted stab) are about 1/8th inch larger. Compare the the Revell F-4E stab to the Tamiya F-4J (both are slatted) and you'll see they are the same. The C/D stab in real life is the same size as an E, the only difference is the E/J stabs had the leading edge modified with slats. I've measured a real unslatted stab and Revells is spot on while the Tamiya is too short. Bruce
  4. Bruce


    I don't think it would be too hard to scale up a 1/48 version and use a couple Revell or Hasegawa kits. Bruce
  5. take a look at the Revell M/MF kit. I think you can take the tail and canopy from it and mate it to a Revell PF kit and get what you want. there are a couple of the kits on ebay. contact me via message about some other items you could use. Bruce
  6. the problem isn't the seats, its the width of the Revell tub. compare it to the Tamiya tub. The walls need to be moved in about the width of the plastic. You can check me on this but on the B and D model the throttles are aligned, your throttles need to be moved to the right. look at http://partsrparts.homestead.com/start.html contact me Bruce
  7. beware of the canopy raising part it is way too short to get the canopy open at the right angle Bruce
  8. When everyone was talking about the wing, I might have missed it, but has anyone compared the old Combat Models(I think) vacform wing to the Hobby Boss wing to see if it is any better? Bruce
  9. is there a website that shows in progress pictures of the build? I've been to Douglas twice during the build and even held a part in place while Tom Riley secured it with a screw. I didn't take the time to take pics. Bruce
  10. Harold's seats look nice but unless I'm mistaken, the parachute pack on the front and rear seat should be on opposite sides. SAC would be the ones to contact about making metal gear , or Ernie Gee at G-factor Bruce
  11. I'm back. I've been trying to figure out what I wanted to do about the exhaust area. I wasn't happy with the kit exhaust and I couldn't find any aftermarket exhaust replacements made for the Hasegawa kit for the early PW F100 engines. (of course someone will probably tell me about some after this post). I did some test fitting with some other kits and decided that the tail area of the Tamiya kit was clse enough that with a little sanding to contour the part in, a set made for the Tamiya kit would work. I ordered the KASL Hobby set and am very pleased. I've started painting them and with a little squeezing and some super glue I attached them and sanded the seam. I can now continue with the rest of the build.
  12. I finally got my cockpits done. I used two True Details resin sets and modified and painted them. I added some details for the rudders and a gear handle in each tub.
  13. did you get your F-15 instruction sheet

    1. Greg W

      Greg W

      Hi Bruce. Yes, BloorwestSiR is scanning a set for me. Thank you for asking. Greg

  14. Here is what I'm starting with. I cut out the area for the second seat years ago and stopped because I wasn't sure about how the cockpits should go. this is what I want to end up with, a B model from Luke circa '80s. I finished cutting the second seat area and building the back area using the Academy kit as a guide since I'm going to use the clear canopy from their D model kit. I used the leftover piece from my SUFA and the instrument shrouds from two True Details F-16A resin sets. The nose wheel well is the AIRES part, modified to fit, leftover from my F-16F build since I used a Zotz intake that had the wheel well. I used the kit intake tunnel and cleaned up the seam. With some careful sanding I was able to slide the nose well in whe I inserted the intake. The main gear well is the kit piece with some leftover SUFA parts added and I'll add some wiring and hydraulic lines. Here are the early stages of the cockpits. They are 2 True Detail resin sets. I've modified the rear tub by cutting it down, making a new rear wall, and modifying the instrument panel to an early B model configuration. more to follow
  15. I'm on to my next adventure in F-16s. Years ago I started to modify a 1/32 Hasegawa F-16A (kit 100) to a 2 seater but quit because I wasn't sure what the tub relationship was between the front and rear seats. I had blown up a set of plans and cutthe fuselage for the second seat and had started to make a mold for the canopy and that is where I quit. When Academy came out with theirs it answered all my questions. I was almost "right on" with my fuselage cut. So I've decided to complete my conversion using parts from my SUFA kit, True Detail cockpits, and some other parts. I'm going to do a B model that Gen. Robert L. Scott Jr. flew in back in the '80s at Luke. If anyone out there was stationed at Luke at that time and has any photos or further info I'd love to see them Bruce
  16. OK, here I am with my fix. I wanted to get the appearance like this: I cut off my original nozzles leaving the ring from the P&W pedals leaving this I then assembled the GE parts and cut of the ring on the bottom and painted the new nozzle piece combined the two parts and mounted them back in the model now I'm much happier with the appearance of the exhaust area. Bruce
  17. Well I thought I was done but...something was bugging me about the exhausts. I had followed the kit instructions for the SUFA exhausts but I just couldn't get the pedals to look right, they didn't look like the GE exhausts. There are 2 sets of exhaust sets in the kit, one for the wide mouth and one for the small mouth. Since I used a ZOTZ large mouth resin replacement I didn't have to follow the kit instructions for the intake and so I just followed the exhaust instructions. The kit only gives one set of instructions and calls for only those part numbers and ignores the other set of exhaust parts. Well something was wrong... I have Academy's single seat kit and it has exactly the same parts in it for bot exhausts, however, the single seat kit specific instructions for wide mouth and small mouth parts. the bottom set of exhaust instructions are what are printed in the SUFA kit (oh and BTW the same for their F-16D instructions) but they don't have the little note that says P&W engine but those are the part numbers they tell you to use on the kit! No wonder they didn't look right to me! The reason for not mentioning the large mouth parts is that both the SUFA and Korean D are small mouth jets. So, I had only tacked the exhaust onto my model so I broke it loose and am modifying it again. If you have bought an Aires or GT resin replacement exhaust you're OK. However if you use the kit intake the parts called for are for the small mouth. BEWARE if you are doing an F they are GE engines thus different exhausts. more later with pics when I finish my modifications. Bruce
  18. well here it is. After fooling with static discharge pieces, tiny wing position lights, a broken nose gear strut, lousy tailcones and canopy fit I have finally finished. Don't look too close: On to the next challenge Bruce
  19. OK, done. I'll post pictures later. Let me just say that mounting the canopy wasn't easy even after I made the new part. I think I'll do my next one with the canopy closed! I also discovered that the engine nozzles, even after I made the changes didn't look right. I decided that the configuration of the turkey feathers wasn't right, so...I've ordered a set of block 40/50/60 nozzles for the Tamiya kits because the drop right in for the Academy tail piece. I'm just going to tack the ones I've done into the tail and replace them when I get the new set. Bruce
  20. the canopy for the a/c I 'm building has a tinted front and clear rear area. I tried tinting it but that didn't work so I ended up cutting the two kit canopies and gluing them back together. Then finished building the canopy. So then I was ready to mount the canopy when I discovered at 2:30 a.m. that the arm was too short. BTW while at the nationals I come to find out thru my room mate that a company makes "such" a canopy. So... when I got home I ordered one thru Sprue Brothers. The company also offers other replacements. The canopy is injection molded molded and looks exactly like the original but the front half is tinted. Not as muck as the kit part but OK. that is the kit part on the left and my corrected part on the right. I made it from some of the kit part and some tubing and a hypodermic needle. Now to continue...
  21. Ok, so here is the model ready for painting after painting after decals and ready to add tires and canopy and that is when I found out the canopy raising arm was too short
  22. set back... didn't finish this for the nationals. at 2:30 the night before I discovered that the kit part for raising the canopy was about 1 inch too short. Pictures and more later. Bruce
  23. Not being a F-16 expert I can't really answer your question about the noses. Wolfpack makes a conversion set for the E using the Tamiya kit and IsraCast makes one for the F using the Academy kit. The F conversion is not for the faint of heart. I hate to think how much I've spent for seamless intakes, wheel well set, and the kit. I also bought an exhaust set hoping it would help(nope,it seems to be too large so I accept the kit with modifications as you can see. Bruce
  24. It turns out that what I thought was a blue band is the optical sensor for the missile so that's not a problem, however, the mounting band that you have painted silver should be white according to my expert Jim Rotramel. Blue bands do stand for an inert missile. You mentioned you might add a little weathering...to the best of my knowledge, Missiles and ECM pods weren't left/stored outside.where they would be exposed to the elements(electronics don't do well left in the rain).
  25. I'm not happy with Academy's wing to fuselage joint. Next time I'll cut of the mounting tabs. The problem is that the wing edge that joins the fuselage is not a sharp edge. The top and bottom surfaces of the wing roll over so when you mate the surfaces there is a gulley. If you cut the tabs you can sand the mating surfaces flat and get a good fit(live and learn. My other probleb was the ab can seam. I ordered a set of Aires exhausts for the kit but decided not to use them since I had done some work on the exhaust nozzle. Instead, I made a quick mold using some Alumilite 2 part mold putty and pushed the end of the Aires ab can into the putty and let is set. I needed a part to mate a F-15 ab set to the Academy nozzles. I cleaned up my rough casting and mated it between the nozzle and ab section. I can use the Aires set on another kit. this whole assembly will slide in the back of the model. ( more to follow when it is finished) Bruce
  • Create New...