gbtr6 Posted February 6, 2010 Share Posted February 6, 2010 Just wondering what people use to get a nice aluminum finish for 51's and 47's and the like. I used SNJ once and it looked good. Would like to try Alclad but I heard it's hard to get right and it can't be touched as it fingerprints. Any other good choices? Thanks, Perry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mhorina Posted February 6, 2010 Share Posted February 6, 2010 Perry, Alclad is good, kit's surface or primer must be polished for good results. try this link http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.ph...&hl=mhorina Mike Horina Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisS Posted February 6, 2010 Share Posted February 6, 2010 I use the following with great results: Alclad II over Tamiya rattlecan gloss black. Rubb N Buff (Silver Leaf) over Tamya rattlecan black. Bare Metal Foil right onto the plastic. Good luck!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Texas Posted February 6, 2010 Share Posted February 6, 2010 Alclad II is good... I used it on a F-80C and Futured over it with good results. I also used Tamiya masking tape on on it without any problems. Texas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big matt Posted February 6, 2010 Share Posted February 6, 2010 For my F-80C I tried Testors Metalizers for the first time. It was a breeze to use out of the bottle and no thinning. A little buffing with an old t-shirt and voila, metal. The surface prep was not as severe as with alclad and looked the part enough for me. The only blunder was I did not use the specific Metalizer sealer. I used future instead and it kind of dulled down the shine. Next time I will use the right sealer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Av8fan Posted February 6, 2010 Share Posted February 6, 2010 If you use acrylics, you can use Hawkeyes Acrylic Mr. Voigt also has the regular type. Some folks even use the Mithril silver from the games workshop line. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theseeker Posted February 7, 2010 Share Posted February 7, 2010 Perry, You have to test each one a spare to see what works for you, and what you feel most comfortable with. Alclad is not difficult to work with IMO and Testors MM is good as well. Rub n' Buff is really easy to use and quite forgiving. the most important thing to remember is surface preperation. Once again, my opinion. If you start with sh*t you will end up with the same. The problem with metal is that you have to vary the shades on different panels. HTH Rocky Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Ron Posted February 7, 2010 Share Posted February 7, 2010 I've used Testors Metalizer and do like it but you can't mask on it even after being sealed. Tape will pull off paint and discolor it. It also rubs off on your hands and will rub right down to plastic if handled to much. Alclad is bullet proof once dry, you can mask on it etc. I hear Tamiya silver spray cans come in several shaded and airbrush real well if decanted into the airbrush bottle. I've never used them yet but plan to on my next NMF project Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted February 7, 2010 Share Posted February 7, 2010 Kitchen foil and glue.............I wont go back to paints again.......with kitchen foil and glue, you can reproduce the variants that you can with metalizers and what not, only in REAL metal even an amateur modeler like myself can make a NMF aircraft of superb realism with it. IMO kitchen foil simply cannot be beat for realism.......if that's what your going for. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted February 7, 2010 Share Posted February 7, 2010 Geez Brian, any excuse to show off your foil, HUH? Well, you should. Back to topic. I also read some time ago about Krylar "chrome". Just spray on and let dry, then buff some. I think it was on LSP...........Harv LOL Guess that may have come off as a bit of "back patting"........Prolly should have shown some one Else's examples! Next time...... Still just trying to promote the joys of foiling! Im def no expert on foiling but its worth the effort if you want a NMF aircraft.... Brian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tallyho Posted February 7, 2010 Share Posted February 7, 2010 Prolly should have shown some one Else's examples! Brian Nope, and what does it take to be an expert? Has anybody found fault with your methods? Anyway, a little humility is a good thing, IMHO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Av8fan Posted February 7, 2010 Share Posted February 7, 2010 That is a nice Bearcat! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phasephantomphixer Posted February 7, 2010 Share Posted February 7, 2010 And foil might just be the thing to calm down those Trumpy divot rivots (or divit rivits) too. Biggest issue on foil for me was getting the glue down evenly so it wouldn't leave ridges or take away surface detail. Alclad II is very tough when applied and can be handled as you are applying it. True, the surface needs to be very clean. A Tamiya or recent Hasegawa kit is best since there is minimal surface work needed. The shiniest one is by using Alclad II chrome over gloss black enamel. It will need to be a perfect surface and be toned down by clearcoats, and washes for sure though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big matt Posted February 7, 2010 Share Posted February 7, 2010 Harv, I can get Testors metalizers at all the lhs's. It is real common and a bit cheaper than alclad. Ron is right, I forgot to mention how tough it is to mask over it. I had a lot of touchups to do from tape marks. No lifted paint though. Alclad is tougher but I have had a hard time getting a consistent finish with it. Totally my fault I am sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gbtr6 Posted February 7, 2010 Author Share Posted February 7, 2010 Wow. Certainly a lot more available than I expected. I would love to try the foil route. I have a roll on self adhesive heat duct foil tape that may work. What adhesive do you use? How do you hide seams? If I could do it, my wife's foil will dissapear fast! Thanks, Perry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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