Gigant Posted July 28, 2017 Share Posted July 28, 2017 (edited) Hi guys, I am new here, so please excuse my lack of info with my handle, as I have not figured out how to enhance/update it yet. I am not even sure if this is the right forum for this, but here is my scale modeling dilemma... Back in '07 when Ernie Petit owned the then-resurrected Lindberg Line, I was talking to him about marketing their 1/64 scale Hustler, chromed-up, to go along with his chromed B-17, Yankee Girl. I was going to build it up and photograph it for a new kit box-cover illustration (I had already sent him examples of my work, like their JU-87 Stuka), and so he had them chrome a complete kit and ship it to me with spare decals. Since the SAC Hustler group kept theirs shiney: I figured it would not be too hard to darken-up a panel here-or-there to reflect a different metal then polished aluminum. Well, before I got to it, Ernie sold the business, and I never built the kit. Sincerely, I am open to suggestions, as to build, sell, etc. As an example, it is tempting to build it, then claim to have metalized it myself. Tom Edited July 28, 2017 by Gigant Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzas Posted July 28, 2017 Share Posted July 28, 2017 You can cover it with foil. Microscale makes a glue for attaching foil to styrene. Works great. The greatest difference about working with foil is that you weather it before you lay it. You can do this either by using steel wool and rubbing the foil in opposing directions, or by using a bleach/water/copper/lead solution. Here's a link that got me started and will get you started...if you're interested: http://www.finescale.com/~/media/import/files/pdf/6/7/d/foiledlightning1.pdf It will be a lot cheaper than paints (under $10 to cover that bird and a few others), and look awesome in real light...especially sunlight. Gaz Gigant and F`s are my favs 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gigant Posted July 28, 2017 Author Share Posted July 28, 2017 (edited) Thank you for your suggestion, Gaz, to further clarify, I have their unpainted kit: as well as this one, which has all the white plastic parts FACTORY CHROME PLATED! Lindberg at that time used photos of built kits for their box illustrations. Nice article, but there is an easier, and cheaper way to cover a model plane with foil... Tom Edited July 29, 2017 by Gigant LSP_K2, Gazzas, mpk and 1 other 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzas Posted July 29, 2017 Share Posted July 29, 2017 Funny picture. I'd love to see a few sprue shots of your Chromed Hustler. I had a Hustler model way back in the seventies (couldn't tell you what scale) and being a kid with limited skills and limited tools and paint it came out looking pretty bad. But I'm certain it wasn't chromed. I don't know how you'd treat seams in chromed plastic. I've read that most people who buy Tamiya's Chromed P-51 strip the chrome from the plastic. Anyway...there are plenty of great foiled builds out there. Cheers, Gaz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gigant Posted July 29, 2017 Author Share Posted July 29, 2017 (edited) Well Gaz, A few weeks ago I was hospitalized with a heart condition, then I went through successful eye surgery to prevent going blind. As I am recovering, while I was hospitalized my things in my immediate easy-chair area got relocated, including the camera cards with their adaptors, with the chromed kit sprues photos by well-meaning family members. I am hoping to find them soon as I was hoping to even yesterday. Anyway, as soon they turn up, and as I can, I will post them. As for touch-up areas, I would use the new Molotow Liquid Chrome markers: https://www.megahobby.com/products/1mm-liquid-chrome-mirror-effect-marker-molotow-liquid-chrome.html As for seams, in general, I have had no issues with Lindberg aircraft kits, especially their chromed ones, but instead of putty, as with the Russian Sukoi Su-7 kit I built, I prefer to use a broad flat-table surface and a large piece of sandpaper for minor gapping in fuselage halves. For wing/tail joints, I use my rotary tool with the correct bit to eliminate gapping as well. The result was a seamless-fit. Tom Edited July 29, 2017 by Gigant Gazzas, Girlscanplay2 and LSP_K2 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzas Posted July 29, 2017 Share Posted July 29, 2017 HI Tom, I'm glad the eye surgery was successful. I hate to think of my life without vision. I'm also glad you're out of hospital. Those pens make some nice shiny stuff. My only grudge against chrome would be that my own clumsiness would put me into place where I would consider the kit hopelessly FUBAR-ed and that you can't change it's tonality without paint. The positive points for aluminium are that I can redo it cheaply without damaging the kit and it will look like aluminium and not like the bumper of a 57' Chevy. It's primary negatives are: Weak paint adhesion (though this can also be a plus), susceptibility to lifting with masking, a tendency to require multiple attempts per panel, and oxidation if the clear-coat isn't heavy enough. Gaz P.S. I have no affiliation with The Reynolds Metals Company. LOL Gigant 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Girlscanplay2 Posted July 30, 2017 Share Posted July 30, 2017 (edited) Thank you for your suggestion, Gaz, to further clarify, I have their unpainted kit: as well as this one, which has all the white plastic parts FACTORY CHROME PLATED! Lindberg at that time used photos of built kits for their box illustrations. Nice article, but there is an easier, and cheaper way to cover a model plane with foil... Tom I feel like doing this to my models sometimes! Teresa Seriously I really like the foiling technique and I will be trying it some day on one of my own projects. We have some LSP members that are fantastic at foiling and have some great tips which I will study when I get ready to do mine. Tom I am Glad you are doing well and wish you all the best. Don't ever give up. Edited July 30, 2017 by Girlscanplay2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony T Posted July 30, 2017 Share Posted July 30, 2017 Used to use foil for some jet nozzles, aft end of jets etc. I boiled pieces of foil when hard boiling eggs, which gave these pieces blue and brown tinges. Tony Girlscanplay2 and Gazzas 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gigant Posted July 30, 2017 Author Share Posted July 30, 2017 (edited) Thank you Tony. As for foil-covering a kit, I would prefer an older release with raised rivets, etc., like my Revell 1/32 P-38 (not the HobbyCraft/Trumpeter one) so they would simply bulge up as I flattened the sheet metal. By the way, what is your favorite glue to keep the stuff on the airplane? Tom Edited July 30, 2017 by Gigant Gazzas 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marauderdriver Posted July 30, 2017 Share Posted July 30, 2017 I'd like to see the CHROMED Hustler myself. I use Micro Metal Foil Adhesive from Micro-Scale. COOL STUFF jack Gazzas, Gigant, Tony T and 1 other 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gigant Posted July 30, 2017 Author Share Posted July 30, 2017 HI Tom, I'm glad the eye surgery was successful. I hate to think of my life without vision. I'm also glad you're out of hospital. Those pens make some nice shiny stuff. My only grudge against chrome would be that my own clumsiness would put me into place where I would consider the kit hopelessly FUBAR-ed and that you can't change it's tonality without paint. The positive points for aluminium are that I can redo it cheaply without damaging the kit and it will look like aluminium and not like the bumper of a 57' Chevy. It's primary negatives are: Weak paint adhesion (though this can also be a plus), susceptibility to lifting with masking, a tendency to require multiple attempts per panel, and oxidation if the clear-coat isn't heavy enough. Gaz P.S. I have no affiliation with The Reynolds Metals Company. LOL So you prefer Kaiser over Reynolds, eh? Chrome plating can be touchy, no kidding-you must clean the surface of finger-tracks after each any any handling, or the acid your skin leaves will mess-up the finish. I do like Lindberg's 1/64 scale, too, over 1/48-1/72 for larger subjects. I gave up on Roden's 1/72 Gothas, whereas I got a couple of old Aurora 1/48's in my stash, as well as Yellow-Wing'ers (Hasegawa and Williams Bro's 1/32), several Revell Luftwaffe seaplanes and both Hase' IJN WW II flying boats, three Skyraider/Sandy's unbuilt (two 1/40 Revell, one 1/48 Ertyl), one Italari 1/48th built, Hasegawa's 1/32 Bf-109G-6 "Bugeye" in the box, etc., etc.... Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzas Posted July 30, 2017 Share Posted July 30, 2017 Just like Maruaderdriver said: Microscale Foil Adhesive! When choosing foil, you want the thinnest cheapest stuff you can find. Discount store stuff made in the People's Republic. I only said Reynolds cuz I used to live in the US, and that's what we always had around. Man, Love these things about eggs! Wish I'd have known about that before. Gaz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gigant Posted July 30, 2017 Author Share Posted July 30, 2017 (edited) I'd like to see the CHROMED Hustler myself. I use Micro Metal Foil Adhesive from Micro-Scale. COOL STUFF jack Hey Jack, Like I told Gaz, I got the photos on storage camera-cards, it's a matter of figuring how to get them onto the website's string-page. Tom Edited July 30, 2017 by Gigant marauderdriver 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marauderdriver Posted July 31, 2017 Share Posted July 31, 2017 Tom, Upload them into a file and move the pics to a Photo storage site, I use Imagur for storage as it's free. You can then send them here to load on LSP.. If I can do it ANYONE can...... jack LSP_K2, Bill_S and Gigant 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gigant Posted September 7, 2017 Author Share Posted September 7, 2017 (edited) OK, Gaz, I finally got my photo stuff working, so here is what a chromed, unbuilt kit looks like: The kit's box: Unchromed kit: Chromed Parts: More Chromed Parts: In order to skip scraping chrome from tires, crew members, interior and engines, etc., my assembly would include both plated and unplated parts. Tom Edited September 7, 2017 by Gigant LSP_K2 and Out2gtcha 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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