Out2gtcha Posted September 12 Share Posted September 12 Thanks to the help of our own Big T, I've got my AnyCubic 12k Mono M5s up and operational. Already have a hand full of prints done, and the ideas and testing/experimenting are coming hot and heavy now. I'm not sure how it stacks up against other slicing software, but the OOB Photon Workshop software that came with the Mono 5s is fairly intuitive. At least enough for me to print 3 or 4 things wirh all the correct supports in at 0.01 to 0.05 layer height. Just need to figure out a consistent way to snip off delicate parts from the raft. I broke some pieces off and so far have tried snipping some of the most delicate parts off prior to curing which has seemed to help. I also ordered a plastic hit knife cutter with a lot of different small blades to see if that could help get some delicate parts off without breaking. Will need to do some experimenting on that front to see if it would be beneficial. IG unit coming along nicely at 0.05 resolution along with a little bearded dragon for my daughter, using AnyCubic high speed resin BiggTim, patricksparks and Fanes 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted September 12 Share Posted September 12 Nicely done, Brian! FWIW, you almost always want to remove supports prior to curing, whenever practicable. Kev Out2gtcha and BiggTim 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted September 12 Share Posted September 12 4 hours ago, LSP_Kevin said: Nicely done, Brian! FWIW, you almost always want to remove supports prior to curing, whenever practicable. Kev Found that out the hard way with the bearded dragon! However, the IG unit already has all of the most delicate supports removed before curing. With the dragon I'm going to experiment with a new hot knife I purchased for this express purpose. BiggTim and LSP_Kevin 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BiggTim Posted September 12 Share Posted September 12 Looking good buddy! As you know, I can't show off the stuff I've been printing very easily, since it's so damn small I can't even photograph it well!! The ammo cans for Dennis turned out great, but I need to tweak the model a bit and print some samples for him. I did buy the Jeep model files, so I'll be printing that as soon as a I get them all scaled properly. It's about 50 parts, so that could take a bit of doing. The model designer has given me permission to sell them if it prints at 1/32 well. I'm gonna be unable to work on anything this weekend, and I kind of regret making plans now. I want to stay home and play with the printer some more!! Out2gtcha and LSP_Kevin 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted September 12 Share Posted September 12 I fear this may become a new addiction......... patricksparks and BiggTim 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BiggTim Posted September 12 Share Posted September 12 14 minutes ago, Out2gtcha said: I fear this may become a new addiction......... It already has.... Out2gtcha 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CShanne Posted September 12 Share Posted September 12 So, I have recently gotten a printer and I really do not have a spare room (besides my current model room) how are you venting your printer area? I use the paint booth exhaust currently and am building an acrylic box, which I will attach an exhaust to, but I am always open for other opinions. Also, with regards to the odorless resin, I assume it is still toxic, but that you cannot smell it? I will look into it when I have more time, but since at least 1 of you use it I figured I would ask. Out2gtcha and BiggTim 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted September 12 Share Posted September 12 So far Big Tim is right, it depends on the type of resin. The AnyCubic high speed resin we are using does smell, but it's not as bad as a lot of the toxic things I seem to use. I've got two of the AnyCubic "AirPure" charcoal filter boxes that set inside the printer itself and help to lessen the smell. I just have to put them together and charge them BiggTim and CShanne 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BiggTim Posted September 12 Share Posted September 12 1 hour ago, Out2gtcha said: So far Big Tim is right, it depends on the type of resin. The AnyCubic high speed resin we are using does smell, but it's not as bad as a lot of the toxic things I seem to use. I've got two of the AnyCubic "AirPure" charcoal filter boxes that set inside the printer itself and help to lessen the smell. I just have to put them together and charge them The little filters help a LOT, but I also keep the printer close to (or IN) my paint booth and run the exhaust fan. The grey resins don't stink too bad, but the translucent ones stink a lot more. Out2gtcha and CShanne 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted September 12 Share Posted September 12 1 hour ago, CShanne said: Also, with regards to the odorless resin, I assume it is still toxic, but that you cannot smell it? I will look into it when I have more time, but since at least 1 of you use it I figured I would ask. Yes, they're all toxic, whether you can smell them or not. Kev Out2gtcha, CShanne and BiggTim 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patricksparks Posted September 13 Share Posted September 13 16 hours ago, Out2gtcha said: I fear this may become a new addiction......... Trust me..... Pat CShanne and BiggTim 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ebf2K Posted Monday at 09:38 PM Share Posted Monday at 09:38 PM From my experience, an ultrasonic knife works great for safely cutting supports, but they are pricey. Let us know if your hot knife experiment works out. BiggTim 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BiggTim Posted Tuesday at 02:27 PM Share Posted Tuesday at 02:27 PM Well I learned something new last evening. I've been printing my tiny high-detail stuff (ammo cans, antennas, etc.) using either standard or the new high-speed resin made for this printer, with excellent results. Those resins are pretty tough, but tend to be bit on the brittle side when used for very thin parts. So I tried using a tougher "ABS-Like" resin last night to print some small stuff. Total failure. It apparently just isn't suitable for that kind of thing, so I'll be going back to the other stuff for production printing, though I will continue to experiment with other types as time and money permit. Tim Out2gtcha 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patricksparks Posted Tuesday at 02:50 PM Share Posted Tuesday at 02:50 PM 16 minutes ago, BiggTim said: Well I learned something new last evening. I've been printing my tiny high-detail stuff (ammo cans, antennas, etc.) using either standard or the new high-speed resin made for this printer, with excellent results. Those resins are pretty tough, but tend to be bit on the brittle side when used for very thin parts. So I tried using a tougher "ABS-Like" resin last night to print some small stuff. Total failure. It apparently just isn't suitable for that kind of thing, so I'll be going back to the other stuff for production printing, though I will continue to experiment with other types as time and money permit. Tim I remember reading an article somewhere that said that you can mix the higher impact resin with the lower impact resin to get a "middle of the road" resin that gives some more resilience but retains detail. I seem to remember that they used same manufacturer resins to blend and stated that they were going up to 50-50 mixes. Pat BiggTim 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted Tuesday at 09:31 PM Share Posted Tuesday at 09:31 PM 7 hours ago, BiggTim said: Well I learned something new last evening. I've been printing my tiny high-detail stuff (ammo cans, antennas, etc.) using either standard or the new high-speed resin made for this printer, with excellent results. Those resins are pretty tough, but tend to be bit on the brittle side when used for very thin parts. So I tried using a tougher "ABS-Like" resin last night to print some small stuff. Total failure. It apparently just isn't suitable for that kind of thing, so I'll be going back to the other stuff for production printing, though I will continue to experiment with other types as time and money permit. Tim Indeed, I found similar results with the "UV Tough" resin as well. I also purchased some of the ABS-like resin but have not experimented with it yet. I would have suspected similar results with it, as you found it seems. I think maybe those resins are more for larger prints that take a shape that needs more flexibility. Ive not tried them on anything large yet. I have noticed that the HS resin is significantly thinner viscosity wise than either of the other two. BiggTim 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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