CANicoll Posted January 5, 2019 Share Posted January 5, 2019 I've been using both for a while now and they definitely are very different products but could be used to do many of the same things. I'm finding issues using the Vallejo on anything larger than the smallest of seams and that there appears to be no tensile strength to the lines at all. But on the small seams that I can use a wet finger to smooth out and clean up immediately is a bonus. The Squadron is a bit more difficult to work with, but the results are rewarding if the effort is put in properly. Is there something else 'better'? Your thoughts? Thanks, Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottsGT Posted January 5, 2019 Share Posted January 5, 2019 Probably not going to get any strength out of any putty. If a seam is not glued solid, putty will crack above it. I always found the Squadron too hard to shape after it sets up. Tamiya white is my go to putty. LSP_K2 and CANicoll 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_K2 Posted January 5, 2019 Share Posted January 5, 2019 37 minutes ago, ScottsGT said: Probably not going to get any strength out of any putty. If a seam is not glued solid, putty will crack above it. I always found the Squadron too hard to shape after it sets up. Tamiya white is my go to putty. I agree, Tamiya white here too; excellent stuff. For a while, I used 3M Acryl Blue, but the smallest tube I could find (which is still quite large), dries up long before I could use half of it, so I discontinued buying it. CANicoll 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted January 5, 2019 Share Posted January 5, 2019 The acrylic putties have their uses, but are not particularly robust. I prefer Perfect Plastic Putty (PPP) from Deluxe Materials to the Vallejo stuff. Whichever one you use, the golden rules for me are: leave it at least 48 hours before attempting to sand; never wet sand; and, don't scribe through them. My main use for this kind of putty is for non-load-bearing gaps, where I can load it up with the putty, and wipe away the excess with a moist cotton bud or finger. This way, I generally don't have to sand it. And in fact, my golden rule for filling any gap is to try to do so in such away that I minimise or even eliminate the need for sanding. I basically start with a "no sand" approach, and work my way up from there. As for alternatives, I generally don't use traditional modelling putties at all these days. I'll occasionally use Mr. Surfacer where I don't think PPP will hold up (or I think I'll have to wet sand). For larger gaps, I'll usually resort to a combination of scrap styrene and an epoxy putty like Milliput (or Apoxie Sculpt, or the Tamiya stuff, etc). My spot-filler of choice, however, is CA mixed with talcum powder. Kev Rick Griewski and CANicoll 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob MDC Posted January 5, 2019 Share Posted January 5, 2019 Gunze every time for me, Ok I was the UK distributer for over ten years but the reason for that was Mr Surfacer paint on wipe of even when hard even the new Mr white putty R is great, also with the epoxy putty's a touch of thinner and they smooth down to zero. Since I have no commercial ties to GSI Creos I've tried all lot of the other products for my demo spot at the UK Nats. I still find the GSI product to perform the best and as good part of my time is working with 3D prints the Mr Surfacers are the tool of choice Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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