Rainer Hoffmann Posted November 30, 2016 Share Posted November 30, 2016 Ok, the title says it I guess. I'm going to paint the afterburner of my Viggen in Alclad Stainless steel, Burnt Iron, Jet Exhaust and perhaps other colors. Have you guys any tips for me? Do's and Dont's for a first time user perhaps? THX in advance. Rainer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill_S Posted November 30, 2016 Share Posted November 30, 2016 I've used Alclad - it's relatively straightforward. I will never again use their gloss black primer, though. I could NOT get that stuff to dry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lars Befring Posted November 30, 2016 Share Posted November 30, 2016 It is pretty easy as long as you remember: *If you want a smooth/shiny surface the base needs to be smooth/shiny, polished primer works perfectly *a black lacquer base is not actually needed unless you want to use chrome or polished aluminium *mist on the Alclad in many thin layers (follow the psi recommendation on the bottle) a thick(floating) layer destroys the finish good luck A-10LOADER and CANicoll 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rainer Hoffmann Posted November 30, 2016 Author Share Posted November 30, 2016 Thanks for the info, guys. Tough luck with the black primer... I ordered a bottle, thinking it was necessary for good results. Cheers Rainer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted November 30, 2016 Share Posted November 30, 2016 Just remember to not spray it on too heavily. It will work fine if you spray it in light coats until you get complete coverage. I use their gloss gray undercoat or Gray micro-filler usually as a base but have tried the black. No difference that I could see. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lars Befring Posted November 30, 2016 Share Posted November 30, 2016 Shake that black primer well, use it in thin coats, and let it harden well, you should do fine Alclad has improved their black primer since it first came out and is much less temperamental now than it used to be And remember that if the black surface isn't perfect you can polish it, no need to apply more Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevepd Posted November 30, 2016 Share Posted November 30, 2016 As above, build your layers up and let it dry, oh and it stinks!. Steve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted November 30, 2016 Share Posted November 30, 2016 I forgot to mention that, after your silver coats dry you can polish the areas with a old t-shirt or some other soft cloth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR Posted November 30, 2016 Share Posted November 30, 2016 Nothing magnifies a tiny surface imperfection like Alclad (or, l presume, similar metallizers), so be extra careful about dust contamination. Lars Befring and CANicoll 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rainer Hoffmann Posted December 1, 2016 Author Share Posted December 1, 2016 Thanks for all the good advice, gents. The paints arrived yesterday, so hopefully I have some bench time over the weekend. The paint mule is ready! Cheers Rainer A-10LOADER and Bill_S 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mgbgtv8steve Posted December 1, 2016 Share Posted December 1, 2016 Several thin coats and always MicroMesh the surface pre and post spraying. I always use Alclads grey filler primer but before I spray any 'silver' i always MicroMesh. I also spray at a low pressure 10 to a max 15psi - I can only say that it works for me. Regards, Steve S. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Peterpools Posted December 1, 2016 Share Posted December 1, 2016 Rainer working with Alclad or AK is relatively easy and the key is PREP work. Seams, sanding marks and imperfections will show up like a blazing red target on a brilliant white background. Run through all the sanding and polishing grits: wet and dry. I normally run through:320,400, 600, 1500, 2000 and 12,000. The plastic now should be super smooth and free of and imperfections. The base for the NMF needs to be super smooth as well and not necessarily glossy. As of late, I've been using AK black base and now MRP Black Primer. I normally am able to shoot them with a very smooth finish, but if you feel the slightest roughness, I'll buff with a polishing cloth. Wear White Cotton Gloves - finger prints and the oils on your skin are a killer I gave up on thick, glossy black bases and they take forever to dry and later on gluing on parts is a nightmare and a mess. There are enough variations with either Alclad or Ak to reproduce any finish as some are very reflective and others are more weathered. I like to apply the NMF's at no more then 12 psi working pressure in light layers, building up the depth slowly. after each layer, give it a minute or so so the actual metallic color has a chance to be sen. You will be amazed at the finish. I normally like to each color dry for at least 12 hours and then mask on top with de-tacked Tamiya masking tape. When done, NEVER pull the tape straight up but gently pull it back onto itself. I've followed this procedure for years and have been very lucky in almost never having any the Alclad or AK lift of the black base or itself. You can shoot Alclad over Ak or visa versa. Booth finished are over a super smooth black base but not gloss black paint. Alcad High shine finish over a black base AK over a black base Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rainer Hoffmann Posted December 2, 2016 Author Share Posted December 2, 2016 Thanks again, guys. Very helpful advice from all of you (well, I did expect that, knowing that you LSP folk are experts and willing to share your expeerience). Peter, stunning finish on both your models. Cheers Rainer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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