LSP_Kevin Posted February 5, 2013 Author Share Posted February 5, 2013 Hello Kevin, A hard job for this plane! I follow your build! JL Thanks JL, good to have you aboard. Not much modelling time of late, but I managed to spend about 15 minutes last night working on that ridge through the flap and aileron. I need to polish everything up again and give it another coat of primer to see how it looks now. Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted February 5, 2013 Author Share Posted February 5, 2013 Thanks Brian. I'm probably going to try some Alclad's own stuff, though it's hardly the cheapest stuff going. Not sure whether to get the standard gloss black base, or the one that's also a filler (sorry, can't remember what each is called exactly - should look it up I guess). Kev OK, found one: Gloss Black Base But can't seem to find what I swear was a gloss black base with micro-filling abilities. I must be dreaming! Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Smith Posted February 5, 2013 Share Posted February 5, 2013 Do you know this product? http://www.daler-rowney.com/content/goldfinger It's easy to check your job before paint Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted February 5, 2013 Author Share Posted February 5, 2013 Do you know this product? http://www.daler-rowney.com/content/goldfinger It's easy to check your job before paint Interesting approach! Don't these metallic pastes interfere with paint adhesion? In my case though, I'm going to need the additional filling and smoothing capabilities of Mr Surfacer. Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Smith Posted February 5, 2013 Share Posted February 5, 2013 No no , it is necessary to remove the product with white spirit before paint,its easy to remove,no problem This product is just use to check,not filling like a surfacer. Sorry for my bad English,i just want to help you.... JL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KOTR Posted February 5, 2013 Share Posted February 5, 2013 Hm, didn't someone once suggest Tamiya black laquer, decanted from the spray can? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted February 5, 2013 Author Share Posted February 5, 2013 No no , it is necessary to remove the product with white spirit before paint,its easy to remove,no problem This product is just use to check,not filling like a surfacer. Sorry for my bad English,i just want to help you.... JL Your English is fine mate, and I really appreciate your help and advice! Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted February 6, 2013 Author Share Posted February 6, 2013 Hm, didn't someone once suggest Tamiya black laquer, decanted from the spray can? Only you so far mate. Frank did recommend some Tamiya Gloss Black acrylic though. All my acrylic blacks are flat. The only gloss black I have in stock is Humbrol, so any alternative will require a purchase. My meagre hobby budget for this fortnight is already committed, so it'll be a couple of weeks before I get around to it. Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daywalker Posted February 6, 2013 Share Posted February 6, 2013 Interesting idea on that metallic paste.. reminds me of Paul Coudeyrette's techniques of replicating NMF's. Paul Coudeyrette's F-104G Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supermario Posted February 6, 2013 Share Posted February 6, 2013 'never did a black base for the aluminum. For the chrome yes, but not aluminium… it always worked fine for me… Another thing is the different layers you add also multiplicate the risk of problems. (I'm also wondering about the "reaction" of Humbrol paint when nasty Alclad is sprayed over it?) As you have a "test bed", try to have one part with a black base an one without, and see what happen ? Re. Tamiya flat paints, they can be polished to a mirror ! (micromesh + cotton cloth -T-shirt f.ex.) Just spray them extremely dilluted to avoid any "orange-skin effect" and let it dry through. For your fin thing, the less risky suggestion was to cut it off and glue it back with a new tab (or pins) If you go the superglue way, I can sugest to try get some micro balloon or talc ("baby powder works perfect and smells nice!) under your hand. Once the superglue applied along the joint/gap you need to fill (even thin layers), dip the part into the talc/microballoon or sprinkle the stuff gently over it. (used this a lot on the TA152; there are several pix of this process in the article) It works great for filling gaps "quick and easy". It's easy to build up as much material as you need by adding layers. Then it's not a pain to put in shape with the hobby knife or a file if needed or simply to sand (it does not go rock hard once dry like only superglue would) - and it does not affect bonding ! The only thing you have to do is to seal it with primer as the mixture became "micro-porous" by definition with micro-balloon or talc. Keep on going ! I'm sure you will nail that one too ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted February 6, 2013 Author Share Posted February 6, 2013 'never did a black base for the aluminum. For the chrome yes, but not aluminium… it always worked fine for me… Another thing is the different layers you add also multiplicate the risk of problems. (I'm also wondering about the "reaction" of Humbrol paint when nasty Alclad is sprayed over it?) As you have a "test bed", try to have one part with a black base an one without, and see what happen ? Hi Roland, Yeah, I did one of the horizontal tail planes on my paint mule without the black undercoat, and it looked terrible. And for some reason the micro-scratches seemed much more visible. I obviously need to get better at preparing my surfaces! With the tail, I'll start by making a partial cut and seeing if that works. If it doesn't, I can simply continue the cut, remove the part and then drill and pin it - hopefully straight this time! When I use CA as a filler, I normally mix the talc in prior to application, making a paste that allows you to completely control thickness and viscosity. I've never tried using it as a glue though, and I've never tried the sprinkle-it-on-afterward approach either. Sounds messy! In other news my package of parts arrived from Andreas at XS-Models today. If you remember, I was missing the propellor boss. Andreas also included a new cowl ring, as mine appeared to be undersized (as it happens they're both the same), a couple of different shafts for the prop, a set of paint masks for the canopy, and also a set of paint masks for the lettering on the wings. Thanks Andreas! No progress with the build today, but I'm hoping to get a little bit of time tomorrow for it. Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fiedotow Posted February 6, 2013 Share Posted February 6, 2013 (edited) Hi Kev! Fine work. Nicely to look at the model of the civilian plane.. By the way... Probably do you know this film? Edited February 6, 2013 by fiedotow Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Peterpools Posted February 6, 2013 Share Posted February 6, 2013 (edited) Kev I'm thinking more in the terms of nightmare! Nothing like a well fitting kit and then all the problems and work in correcting them. I sure don't envy you on that one. I've been following your testing procedure for the Gloss Black base and as I suggested at the very start, I have had great success with using Tamiya Fine Gray Primer (rattle can - dries smooth as glass) and then shooting Tamiya Gloss Black, thinned 60 parts lacquer thinner to 40 parts paint @ 1o psi (working pressure) and the gun is no more then 1 - 1.5 inches from the model surface. With a bit of practice the wet coat dries like ice - super smooth and no need to polish. If I have to polish, I use the NOVUS products 1, 2 and 3. This is what the car guys use and it's fantastic. Keep 'em coming Edited February 7, 2013 by Peterpools Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Radders Posted February 6, 2013 Share Posted February 6, 2013 Been a while since I've been on here, just popped on for a look and it's getting there Kev! Can't wait to see the final result Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted February 7, 2013 Author Share Posted February 7, 2013 Thanks chaps! I really appreciate all the tips and advice. I'll use them to work my way to some sort of process that works for me - if that actually ever happens! Probably do you know this film? Sure do mate! Great movie. The scenes in this film where Di Caprio (as Hughes) is obsessing over the flush-rivetting and smoothness of the fuselage is my main inspiration to get a flawless, highly-polished finish on the model. Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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