Tamyia 1/32 kit decals

[Tench]

Since I usually use after market decals, I was just wondering about Tamiya's kit decal properties:

 

1. Are they very reliable for " settling" down or too thick?

 

2. If they are usable is there a specific setting solution that's perferred and/or any tendencies/ nuances to be aware of?

 

Appreciate your input.

 

 

TENCH

[LSP_Kevin]

I've only built one of Tamiya's LSP kits up to now (their Zero), and found the kit decals to be similar to all their others I've used previously (in 1/48). Nicely printed, thick, stiff and impervious to most decal solvents. I tried using Mr Mark Softer on them, after seeing it recommended somewhere, but the results inspired me to dub that product Mr Mark Destroyer.

 

One thing that really does help though, is to soak them in hot water - not boiling, but definitely beyond warm. This softens them sufficiently for a few seconds so that they almost behave like aftermarket decals.

 

Kev

[Tench]

I've only built one of Tamiya's LSP kits up to now (their Zero), and found the kit decals to be similar to all their others I've used previously (in 1/48). Nicely printed, thick, stiff and impervious to most decal solvents. I tried using Mr Mark Softer on them, after seeing it recommended somewhere, but the results inspired me to dub that product Mr Mark Destroyer.

 

One thing that really does help though, is to soak them in hot water - not boiling, but definitely beyond warm. This softens them sufficiently for a few seconds so that they almost behave like aftermarket decals.

 

Kev

 

 

Thanks for the quick reply Kevin. I guess I'll try the hot water technique on some of the spare decals and see how they cooperate. I thought I had heard about some difficulties with them before thus the reason for this inquiry.

 

Thanks again.

 

Tench

[phasephantomphixer]

There's another resulting issue with "Thick" decals. Once you get them to nestle down

(sometimes future helps when it dries on and under the decal) you have the raised part

still to be dealt with. If you don't it can show up with a wash and clear coat. After you decal

and before you weather, lay down 2-3 coats of future over decal and area (or most of model,

it doesn't matter). Once cured after a day or so, micromesh sand (or fine nailboards) directly

on decal to sand the raised carrier away. Then you can weather and finish as usual. Using these

steps, I can use the thickest Hasegawa decals without anyone noticing.

[Out2gtcha]

Personally I can relate to using a clear to conceal the carrier, but IMHO I have tried on many occasions using Future for this with disappointing results. I like Future...................for can-O-pees.

 

For me its WAY too susceptible to damage, takes way too long to dry, shoots very heavy, doesn't at all atomize well, and pools very easy if your ham-fisted at all on the air-brush.

 

I used the MM clear gloss lacquer for the same purpose with Tamiya decals with great success. The gloss lacquer is much less susceptible to airborne contaminants and damage, dries 10 times faster, to a harder shell, and atomizes SUPER DUPER fine to the point that if your shooting the matt lacquer thin enough, it almost dries before you put the air-brush down.

 

Another advantage it has you can shoot the MM clear lacquers over anything; literally..............the MM "enamel system" lacquer thinner they use with the clears is really not very hot at all, and Ive had luck with it over delicate acrylics, enamels and of course lacquers.

About the only disadvantage the this MM lacquers have VS Future is the smell. If you dont have a paint booth, or warm climates to shoot outside, just make sure you at least have a well ventilated area to shoot. The MM clears, when dry properly are bomb-proof compared to Future, and you really have to spray hard with a rattlecan to get pooling, unlike Future that seems to pool at the drop of a hat. The MM clears also take well to final finish sanding polishing.

 

Its really great stuff. Im a total convert, and if shot correctly, youll never again use Future for clear coats, and as with me, it will get relegated to canopy and clear lens duties only.

 

 

Just MHO

 

Brian

[thierry laurent]

In fact, this depends on the age of the kit and who made the decals. Some sets were outsourced (for instance to Scalemaster). So the quality may be variable.

 

A good example is the F-4C/D kit. The initial batch was a true disaster! Decals disintegrated as soon as they hit water! Second batch was far better and decals were thin. Later, decals were directly made by Tamiya but were consequently quite thicker!

[Tench]

Okay thanks guys. Sounds like they could be trouble soooo.....I'll go to plan "B" which is....."does anyone have the Polish desert scheme decals (ZX 6)from the PCM Mk IXc kit that are not going to be used?" I'll post this officially in the Trader's Forum.

 

Thanks,

 

TENCH

[AdAstraMasks]

Okay thanks guys. Sounds like they could be trouble soooo.....I'll go to plan "B" which is....."does anyone have the Polish desert scheme decals (ZX 6)from the PCM Mk IXc kit that are not going to be used?" I'll post this officially in the Trader's Forum.

 

Thanks,

 

TENCH

Hi TENCH,

 

We would be delighted to supply you with paint masks for those markings. Please send us an e-mail at this address if you are interested.

 

Best regards,

 

Ian

[is it windy yet?]

To comment on the above posts. I have pretty good success with Tamiya decals. I use very hit water. I actually heat my water on a portable element while I decal. I've used mr mark setter and mr mark soft for years with good success, however a few adverse reactions to future clear coats have happened. Lately I've switched to Tamiya brand setting solution, with no compatability issues with Tamiya decals.

[Tench]

Hi TENCH,

 

We would be delighted to supply you with paint masks for those markings. Please send us an e-mail at this address if you are interested.

 

Best regards,

 

Ian

 

 

Ian, thanks for the reply, but I was able to obtain the markings from a generous LSP member.

[DoogsATX]

As I posted in another forum about a month ago, I'm done with Tamiya decals. Just flat done. Thick, prone to silvering where aftermarket decals have no issues, refusal to lay down over weird ridges and contours. I've had issues with them on every kit I've used them on (1/48 P-51B, P-47D-25, Mossie, Fw 190A-3, 1/32 Spit VIII) with on exception. On a 1/48 P-51D I built last summer, I stole the insignia and stencil decals from their 9th AAF boxing, which were printed by Cartograf and performed beautifully.

 

The Spitfire was perhaps the most heartbreaking. Used the excellent Barracudacals sheet for the main markings and Tamiya for the stencils, wingwalks, etc. 70% of them silvered. Realized after the fact that Barracudacals tossed in a second sheet with all those stencils.

 

Only time I foresee using them again is with my RAF Mustang III - really want to do the sharkmouth from 112 squadron, but can't run down an aftermarket sheet for the life of me...

[smithery]

Since you've sourced out the PCM kit decals, it's a moot point, but here's the method I use when working with kit decals.

 

I gloss the model as per usual, by brushing on Future, and letting it dry thoroughly. When it comes time to apply decals, I use hot water and a bowl warmer like Ron above. When I remove the decal from the water, I set it down on an old t-shirt to wick up excess moisture. While it's sitting on the shirt, I brush a fresh pool of Future where the decal is to be placed, then slide the decal into the wet Future. I gently push the decal with a dry brush to ensure all surfaces of the decal are in contact with the wet Future. I then brush a thin layer of Future on top of the decal, and let the whole thing dry. As the Future dries, it sucks the decal down with it, forcing it to conform with kit details

 

Using the process above, I've never had an issue with a kit decal not conforming with details, be it instrument panels, panel lines, etc. I've also never had a kit decal go silver on me.

 

HTH

[LSP_Kevin]

Since you've sourced out the PCM kit decals, it's a moot point, but here's the method I use when working with kit decals.

 

I gloss the model as per usual, by brushing on Future, and letting it dry thoroughly. When it comes time to apply decals, I use hot water and a bowl warmer like Ron above. When I remove the decal from the water, I set it down on an old t-shirt to wick up excess moisture. While it's sitting on the shirt, I brush a fresh pool of Future where the decal is to be placed, then slide the decal into the wet Future. I gently push the decal with a dry brush to ensure all surfaces of the decal are in contact with the wet Future. I then brush a thin layer of Future on top of the decal, and let the whole thing dry. As the Future dries, it sucks the decal down with it, forcing it to conform with kit details

 

Using the process above, I've never had an issue with a kit decal not conforming with details, be it instrument panels, panel lines, etc. I've also never had a kit decal go silver on me.

 

HTH

 

I've heard about this technique before Kevin, but I've never understood how it works. How do you get the decal into position before the Future starts to go tacky? How do you prevent a large build-up of Future around the decals? This approach obviously works for you, so I'd love to know how you deal with these issues - or are they non-issues?

 

Kev

[smithery]

I've heard about this technique before Kevin, but I've never understood how it works. How do you get the decal into position before the Future starts to go tacky? How do you prevent a large build-up of Future around the decals? This approach obviously works for you, so I'd love to know how you deal with these issues - or are they non-issues?

 

Kev

 

They're really non issue Kevin.

 

When I mean "pool" of Future, I don't mean literally. I just brush on a fresh layer of Future where the decal is going to go, after I have soaked the decal in hot water. It's only a metter of seconds between brushing on the Future, and applying the decal. With the Future being wet, you do still have some time to wiggle decal into position, albeit not as much time as you would with just plain water. The rest is non-issue, since Future is self levelling when it dries. The clear carrier film disappears inside the Future "sandwich", and I've never noticed a "ridge" where the decal is in place.

 

I just used this technique mast night as I applied the kit decal to the instrument panel of my Hase Raiden, and each of the four kit decals sucked right down into and around each and every instrument on the panel. Will post pics to demonstrate the results once I'm ready (won't be long now).

 

I usually use just plain water to set the decal (then Microsol to force it conform) when working with nice thin aftermarket decals, but whenever I choose to use kit decals, out comes the Future.

 

The extra bonus of using the Future sandwich is that I'm ready for washes/weathering as soon as the decals are on and dry......no extra clearcoats.

[Tench]

It's not a moot point as I am glad you shared your technique. I am going to play it safe on this project and use the thinner decals that I was fortunate to obtain. However, I am going to practice and experiment on some spare thick ones using the hot water ,as mentioned earlier, and your method.

 

Thanks Smithery(Kevin) and all who replied to this topic.

 

TENCH

Edited February 12, 2012 by Tench