LSP_Ray Posted January 26, 2011 Share Posted January 26, 2011 Here are three pics of the real seat. The DML seat isn't too far off, maybe removing 1 or 2mm from the top and rebuilding the rolled edge would help... From The Modeller's Datafile #9: The Messerschmitt Bf 109: Part 1: Prototype to 'E' Variants, by Lynn Ritger. Posted under Free Use Act, please abide by it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rafju Posted January 26, 2011 Share Posted January 26, 2011 Hello Ray These seat pictures looks to be from a "B" model: http://www.moskittech.ru/eng/myze/Bf-109B-1/Bf-109B-1.htm* but from my knowledge, no modification happenned to the last the "E" type,if someone could confirm... raf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Ray Posted January 26, 2011 Share Posted January 26, 2011 Hello Ray These seat pictures looks to be from a "B" model: http://www.moskittech.ru/eng/myze/Bf-109B-1/Bf-109B-1.htm* but from my knowledge, no modification happenned to the last the "E" type,if someone could confirm... raf Yup, those pics are from a seat of a B, but as far as I can tell, I agree with you, the seat did not change till the F or G, and it is the best pics of the seat I have found so far. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DougN Posted February 2, 2011 Author Share Posted February 2, 2011 Ok, slow progress this week, but have about finished up the cockpit painting. I decided to try to paint the instruments, rather than try to get a decal to lay down over the detail, I'll put some future on them tomorrow and then button it up! Right now everything is just dry fit, and that fit is really good, in fact it's hard to get the fuselage halves back apart once the snap onto the cockpit floor. Comments/questions welcome! Cheers, Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ladder4boy Posted February 2, 2011 Share Posted February 2, 2011 coming along very nicely Doug! lovely work on that 'pit too... love the way the wash came out. The data plate on the oxygen holder.. is that a kit decal or from your spares? just wondering what all kind of goodies dragon is putting in there. Looking forward to more cheers! Jerry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DougN Posted February 2, 2011 Author Share Posted February 2, 2011 Cheers Jerry CHD (Cyber Hobby/Dragon) kindly supply decals for the instrument panel (3) as well as for the oxygen holder and the box next to it. Even nicer is that they give you two of each decal in case you mess one up (or want to use them on an Eduard kit) Cheers, Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Ray Posted February 4, 2011 Share Posted February 4, 2011 Looking good, Doug! Looks like painting the instruments worked out well! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DougN Posted February 9, 2011 Author Share Posted February 9, 2011 Ok, not a huge update, but I did get the fuselage closed up and started fitting the cowl pieces. I really liked the locating tabs CHD use instead of pins, as it helps eliminate any step between the fuselage halves. Here is the current state of affairs: Engine dry fit to fuselage: gun cover cowl dry fit Note that if you want to have the cowls attached, the gun cover cowl will not fit over the completed gun tray assembly (like the Eduard kit). First, you will need to leave out parts F19 (x2) and F28. The gun breeches will also need to be sanded down a bit to ensure a perfect fit. I also found that when placed in the fuselage, the gun tray base (F2) is a bit wide and spreads the forward fuselage out a bit too much to match up the the gun cowl itself. I ended up glueing the fuselage together, and using the gun cowl (without F2 attached) to get the the forward fuselage set up to match the gun cowl. Once that was done, I sanded the sides of F2 to narrow it a bit so it will easily fit within the fuselage space. I also found that it caused binding on the tabs of the gun cowl cover, so I carved out larger slots. In the end, it looked like this: With engine dry fit in place: I am also a little leary of CHD's asking me to attach all the cowl parts to directly to the engine. I did some testing, and determined that I could glue the two side parts (A17/A18) together, and then attach the bottom cowl (B26), and attach that all to the engine. I may even attempt to attach B7 and B8 (the ducts for the oil cooler) to the bottom cowl first rather than the oil cooler itself to see if that will work. This should ensure good panel alignment of all the cowl parts. I did a quick fit of all the cowl parts together to see how they looked: CHD is to be commended for their excellent fit and engineering. My initial comparison to a Tamiya-like feel to the kit has been reinforced even more as I continue to build it. Found a few errors in the instructions already, they are: In step 3, they would have you attach A12 and A13 to the inside bottom of the fuselage panel (A19). Do not do this as these are the bolt cover bumps for the wingroot. Also, if you want to put either the bomb or droptank racks on your bird, there are holes that you will need to open up on part A19. Do this before attaching to the fuselage (it should be easy to figure out which holes go to what. If you do attach one of these, you might need to leave off part A7 or F33. Next, on to the wings! Thanks for looking in! Cheers, Doug Uncarina 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RogerP Posted February 9, 2011 Share Posted February 9, 2011 You are doing an outstanding job. Very impressed with the cockpit. Can't wait to get myself one of these kits. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DougN Posted February 23, 2011 Author Share Posted February 23, 2011 (edited) Ok, just a tiny bit more progress. I decided to glue as much of the lower cowl together before painting, and was able to fit parts A17/A18 (L & R cowl halves); B7 (front oil cooler intake); B26 (lower cowl) and finally B22 (inspection hatch cover) together without problems: I left the rear intake off to facilitate fitting the engine easier. It all goes together (engine and upper cowl not glued) with the engine without problems: Moving on to the wings, I attached the gear leg troughs (D16/D17) and the DS (Dragon's flexible plastic) wheel well inserts (H1/H2)to the wing. These really work great, as they can be glued like plastic but molded into complex shapes. I was going to try to paint them better, but did not want to get any more bogged down into this build Here they are placed on the upper wing to give an idea of how they look: Next up, building the flaps and ailerons, getting the PE bits on and attached properly, and getting the wings together. I must say, this kit continues to exceed my expectations with every step! Sorry for the sloooow progress Cheers, Doug Edited February 23, 2011 by DougN Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Ron Posted February 23, 2011 Share Posted February 23, 2011 It looks like a great kit!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted February 23, 2011 Share Posted February 23, 2011 Excellent work Doug! Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rafju Posted February 23, 2011 Share Posted February 23, 2011 Wow! many thanks Doug very useful and great pictures! raf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DougN Posted March 27, 2011 Author Share Posted March 27, 2011 Ok, I guess it's time for an update! I did some more work on the wings. Unfortunately, the wing inserts (C45/C46) were a tiny bit too narrow on the sides, so I had to fill a little bit around them and re-scribe. I also noticed that if you build with the wing leading edge slats closed, the slat for the port side is about .75mm too short, so you'll need to address that as well. Also note that the slats themselves have an attachment point depression thingy on them, and this should be there, don't sand them out by mistake like I almost did! I also discovered that you can deviate from the kit instructions when it comes to assembling all the PE bits that hold the flaps and ailerons in place. Instead of assembling the hinge, and then attaching the flap/aileron to the wing, I superglued the wing attachments (MA1, MA6, MA8) to the wing, and then superglued the appropriate other bits (MA2, MA15, MA16, MB2) to the flaps/aileron as appropriate. Now I can attach them when I am ready Also, the kit wingtips have some very nice raised rivet detail. As I ended up losing some of it from sanding, as well as the fact that my references show flush rivets like the rest of the aircraft, I sanding them all off and used Radu's riveter with the 1.5 pitch wheel to replace them I'm still not 100% pleased with the slats, as they had a slight warp to them which was noticeable when putting them in the fully closed position. I don't think that it would have been noticeable in the open position. I may need to work on them a bit more. One other issue, is that the holes for the rudder PE attachments are not quite right. While the upper hole is fine, the one that is supposed to be midway down is actually much further down. Apparently, CHD is aware of this and it will be corrected on future releases. In the interim, just drill a hole in the correct spot Well, I guess that will do it for this update! Cheers, Doug Uncarina 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big matt Posted March 28, 2011 Share Posted March 28, 2011 Great work. I am getting ready to start this kit and your build has been a big help. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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