stencils

[mjlynch71]

I see that more people are using stencils. How are they used. I have been using the box supplied decals and aftermarket ones for years. This must be something new I was not aware of. Looks like you just place over area then paint them on. If this is correct, I am getting some, as that will lokk a lot better than decals. Do they make them for the US stars and markings., and where to get them. Thanks, Jerod

[Allok]

I see that more people are using stencils. How are they used. I have been using the box supplied decals and aftermarket ones for years. This must be something new I was not aware of. Looks like you just place over area then paint them on. If this is correct, I am getting some, as that will lokk a lot better than decals. Do they make them for the US stars and markings., and where to get them. Thanks, Jerod

Um... do you mean Masks ,which you stick on and paint over and then peel off? Or dry-rub data stenciling, which rub-on from a backing sheet straight on to the model?

[Out2gtcha]

I see that more people are using stencils. How are they used. I have been using the box supplied decals and aftermarket ones for years. This must be something new I was not aware of. Looks like you just place over area then paint them on. If this is correct, I am getting some, as that will lokk a lot better than decals. Do they make them for the US stars and markings., and where to get them. Thanks, Jerod

 

Are you referring to the pre-cut masks people are using to paint roundels and stars and bars and nose art and the like?

 

I assume so..............When I think of stencils I usually think of dry rub transfers and hard scribing templates and what-not.

 

I LOVE the pre-cut masks. Eduard makes some cockpit masks that work well but they are usually only for canopys, are a bit limited and they dont come with masks for the inside of the canopy nor do they come with documentaton or any masks for national insignias and what-not.

 

However, Montex makes three types of masks, all under the "offer" section of their site:

 

1.) MINI MASK - contain masks for painting cabins/canopies

 

2.) MAXI MASK - contain masks for painting cabins and stencils for distinctive paintings: national emblems and tactical and functional symbols (bows, crosses, stars, letters, numbers, chevrons etc.)

 

3.) SUPER MASK - contain masks for painting cabins and stencils for distinctive paintings based on photos and other primary sources. Super Mask series also contains colour airplane drawings in four projections depicting the placement of the paintings.

 

I almost always look for a Montex Super Mask as these are the most prized and usually have great pictures of the finished ship with them.

 

Unlike Eduard, the Montex canopy masks (the masks for national emblems and what not are in a more traditional style masking material, but yet still VERY durable and flexable) are produced of high quality black matt foil, which contrasts with the glazing of the cabin and is easily applied.

Also, the glue they use is strong enough not to let the masks deform on oval and curved surfaces.

 

Get the Masks here:

Montex

 

Here is what a set looks like for a BF-109G:

 

 

Hope that is what you were looking for.

 

Cheers,

Brian

[mjlynch71]

I know what masks are, just used them. These are Verlinden 1/32 stencils, on their website they show many different ones on a large sheet. How are they used, cut out and placed on model then painted over, and pulled off to be used again, or are they a one time use. Thanks, Jerod

[LSP_Ray]

Montex Masks are the way to go for markings, & Hobbydecal is the way to go for dry transfer stenciling, which is typically not included with the masks. With that combo, no traditional decaling is required.

[Wurzacher]

But...

 

be careful using the black masking material on a futured clear part. Had futured a 1/48 scale Ta 152 canopy weeks before i masked it with the black material from Montex. Than sprayed the model as usual and took it outside to dry in the sun. Wasn´t too long laying in the sun for i was worried about the black vinyl getting too hot, so i took it back in the house after some 10 minutes.

 

Than the surprise: i nearly wasn´t able to remove the mask from the canopy for the mask was sticking this strong to it. Had to use a nipper to rip it from the clear part, and then was shocked:

 

 

A lot of the glue bonded to the Future! What a mess!

[Allok]

I know what masks are, just used them. These are Verlinden 1/32 stencils, on their website they show many different ones on a large sheet. How are they used, cut out and placed on model then painted over, and pulled off to be used again, or are they a one time use. Thanks, Jerod

The dry-rub stencils are one-time use only.

They're great. The Hobbydecal ones are my favorite.

[Wurzacher]

Struggled some time with me and my fate. Tried alcohol and other stuff that i thought might help to remove this sticky glue from my canopy. No success...

 

Than i remembered an article in FineScale Modeler where someone mentioned a product called "GooGone". Now, this is not available here in Germany, but a friend of mine has a friend with access to a PX store. So i manadged to get a bottle of it. And:

 

 

As clear as it could be! And the best of it: GooGone did not harm my Gunze paint at all! Man, i was a lucky man again!

 

Conclusion(at least for me): do not let a Future coated clear part bake in the sun or excess heat! The longer the Future has dried before applying a vinyl mask the better. And it is good to have GooGone nearby!

 

Montex masks are a dream to me. Started using them not too long before, but will have a look on them whenever i can.

[Out2gtcha]

Than i remembered an article in FineScale Modeler where someone mentioned a product called "GooGone".......

 

AMEN BROTHER!

 

I discovered GooGone about 5 years ago hear in the states and have not ever looked back. It works wonders on most everything including removing bumper stickers, making tape residue, dirt, gum, crayons, and most anything sticky. But as Thomas mentioned earlier, it works by way of some wacky citrus ingredients and doesnt seem to effect paint or clears (smells citrus fuity as well!)

 

Cheers,

Brian

[LSP_Kevin]

But...

 

be careful using the black masking material on a futured clear part. Had futured a 1/48 scale Ta 152 canopy weeks before i masked it with the black material from Montex. Than sprayed the model as usual and took it outside to dry in the sun. Wasn´t too long laying in the sun for i was worried about the black vinyl getting too hot, so i took it back in the house after some 10 minutes.

 

Than the surprise: i nearly wasn´t able to remove the mask from the canopy for the mask was sticking this strong to it. Had to use a nipper to rip it from the clear part, and then was shocked:

 

 

A lot of the glue bonded to the Future! What a mess!

 

This exact thing happened to me recently on a Minicraft 707 build. I had masked it up and sprayed the lower surface colours, and then left it outside to dry. Not in the direct sun mind you, but it was a very hot day. Anyway, I found that the glue from the masking tape had bonded nicely to my paint job. I won't even bother telling you about the mess I made trying to clean it up...

 

Kev