JRutman Posted February 12, 2010 Share Posted February 12, 2010 Very cool painting man. Wish I could do that! J Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveJ Posted February 12, 2010 Share Posted February 12, 2010 Very cool painting man. Wish I could do that!J I'll second that! A very interesting technique that I'm looking forward to seeing finished! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theseeker Posted February 12, 2010 Share Posted February 12, 2010 Brian, Interesting painting approach. I have a friend who does something similar with a sharpie. Rocky Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted February 12, 2010 Author Share Posted February 12, 2010 Brian,Interesting painting approach. I have a friend who does something similar with a sharpie. Rocky Thats very interesting............. Does that technique actually work? I myself have tried it and each time I try, the ink from the sharpie seems to bleed through the paint..........no matter what I tried, and no matter how long I let the paint dry, the sharpie ink seemed to bleed through. What kind of paint did he use over the sharpie? Brian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted February 12, 2010 Share Posted February 12, 2010 no matter what I tried, and no matter how long I let the paint dry, the sharpie ink seemed to bleed through. Yep, that's the general consensus with using permanent markers under paint. I have no idea how anyone could make it work for pre-shading! Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theseeker Posted February 12, 2010 Share Posted February 12, 2010 Thats very interesting............. Does that technique actually work? I myself have tried it and each time I try, the ink from the sharpie seems to bleed through the paint..........no matter what I tried, and no matter how long I let the paint dry, the sharpie ink seemed to bleed through. What kind of paint did he use over the sharpie? Brian Yep, that's the general consensus with using permanent markers under paint. I have no idea how anyone could make it work for pre-shading! Kev My mistake. This is his process; 1. Sharpie-on bare plastic 2. Mr. Surfacer 1200 3. Testors Flat Laquer 4. Dry for 24 hours under two 100 watt bulbs 5. Paint as usual I have tried this on some spare wings and it does work, but I don't care for the effect. IMO, it is too crisp. You need a little "splotch" in order to give it a three dimensional look. Just my 2 cents. It would look good on smaller scales but 1/24 or 1/32 doesn't look convincing. Rocky Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted February 13, 2010 Author Share Posted February 13, 2010 ...... You need a little "splotch" in order to give it a three dimensional look. Rocky I agree. Thats why I think im using the old post-it note post shading effect with HIGHLY diluted black. I really like the effect and it still retains some of the shadowing splotchieness that give teh panels a 3D look. Ill post pics in a few days. I now have the panel low light shadows, and highlights on the bottom, including the white stripes on the underside. No real weathering yet to speak of. Ill be moving on now to the main base color on the topside and then..............camo! Im looking forward to the camo part. Cheers, Brian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karatay Posted February 13, 2010 Share Posted February 13, 2010 Hello Brian, I hope it's not too late: the MKXIV had ailerons about one foot shorter than normal. Also, 1) the rear tip of the outboard cannon bulge should be adjacent to the row of fasteners, 2) this type of wing had a narrow blister chordwise over the wheel well rib, 3) the empty shell case chute for the cannon is not open, 4) the stub in board of the cannon barrels is a blast tube for the .50 M G and should be open, 5) both the plate over the wheel well and the chordwise panel line behind it are superfluous. A very neat, nice model otherwise! looking forward to seeing it finished! Cheers Vasko Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mhorina Posted February 13, 2010 Share Posted February 13, 2010 Hello Brian,I hope it's not too late: the MKXIV had ailerons about one foot shorter than normal. Also, 1) the rear tip of the outboard cannon bulge should be adjacent to the row of fasteners, 2) this type of wing had a narrow blister chordwise over the wheel well rib, 3) the empty shell case chute for the cannon is not open, 4) the stub in board of the cannon barrels is a blast tube for the .50 M G and should be open, 5) both the plate over the wheel well and the chordwise panel line behind it are superfluous. A very neat, nice model otherwise! looking forward to seeing it finished! Cheers Vasko Hi Vasko, I'm no expert but weren't the short ailerons used on MkVII and MkVIII with C wings and the early built MkXIV with the C wing because they started out as reworked Mk VIIIs, wouldn't a late XIV with the universal E wing have the longer ailerons ? Just asking inquiring mind would like to know. Thanks for any info or insight into this matter Mike Horina Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted February 14, 2010 Author Share Posted February 14, 2010 Hi Vasko, I'm no expert but weren't the short ailerons used on MkVII and MkVIII with C wings and the early built MkXIV with the C wing because they started out as reworked Mk VIIIs, wouldn't a late XIV with the universal E wing have the longer ailerons ? Just asking inquiring mind would like to know. Thanks for any info or insight into this matter Mike Horina To tell you the truth...........Im not sure either way. And yes it is too late......but not too worry.......not only am I no spitfire expert, but im no rivet counter in any way shape or form.......so that being said, the Mk XIV changes Im making to Pac Models spit, are pretty much contained to what comes in Radu's Mk XIV conversion and Im not really worrying about any of the other minute changes that the Mk XIV had. Cheers, Brian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScoobyDoo Posted February 14, 2010 Share Posted February 14, 2010 I'll second that! A very interesting technique that I'm looking forward to seeing finished! I agree, it is an interesting technique! Great work on this build! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Pratt Posted February 14, 2010 Share Posted February 14, 2010 Harvey I think the MkXVI is the same as the MkIX with regrads to the tail wheel so it would be fixed...some may know more...I hope...it's a heck of a build though,very nice...cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mhorina Posted February 14, 2010 Share Posted February 14, 2010 I hope you don't mind me posting a question here, a little OT.......I just got the CAMMETT MKXVI conversion, rear fuse and wheels, thanks to Neal (pappy1) and I understand you can use this in conjunction with Radu`s to make a MK XVI "low back". How well does this work, anyone know? Also with the Cammett, there is no tail wheel doors. Did all XVI`s have retacs?? Thanks in advance...........Harv Harv, I don't want to hy-jack this thread but the XVI did not use the fin/rudder from Radu's XIV but the pointed rudder from the IX. All XI4s retractable TW., all XVIs non retractable. And from what I found early C wing XIVs had the short ailerons, E wing XIV had the reguler ailerons and all XVIs normal ailerons Just what I recently discovered. Mike Horina Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted February 14, 2010 Author Share Posted February 14, 2010 .......... E wing XIV had the reguler ailerons and all XVIs normal ailerons..... Well that makes me feel a BIT better as JH "Ginger" Laceys Mk XIV that I doing was an E-wing...........not that I would have changed it anyway. It does appear to have quite normal sized ailerons on Laceys Mk XIV. Cheers, 'Brian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Out2gtcha Posted February 15, 2010 Author Share Posted February 15, 2010 Another update on the more FUN part of the build process for me (as long as I can keep cat hair and dust and what not out of the paint Ill be fine...... ) After getting the base RAF Grey on, as well as the contrasting panels of varying shades of RAF Gray I moved on and completed the high/low shading on the bottom. For some reason harder to see in these pics..........Its the crapy photo light and my lack of skill. The sony cam is pretty good..just need to learn to Zoom then focus......... Shadow/dark shading relief done Highs/panel highlights done Closer view after that process I like the effect....its just not subtle enough quite yet. So after removing the masking on the white and going over teh dark shadows on it, I went back over the white highlighted stripes with a 90/10 thinner white paint mix to unify blend and subdue the effect. Then I wend back over the completed RAF Gray under surface with one last highly diluted 90/10 thinner paint mix and blended and softened the effect on the gray Here is the result......again sorry for any crappy pics. Closer view After the whole rigama-roll with teh underside process, I moved on and let it dry overnight in my direct heat model room Got to work tonight starting the whole process over again for the top side. I managed to mask the underside and shoot the RAF dark earth base coat Tis all for now gents..........On to more color and shading! Cheers, Brian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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