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1/18 scale Jukka Tervamäki JT-9T autogyro scratchbuilt model


Nick_Karatzides

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The steps are slow, but I prefer steady progress rather than hastily. Unfortunately, the problems are not missed. Although I do not think myself as awkward, after the incident with the (voluntarily flying) autogyro model scaffolding under my sleeve and threw (launched to be precise) on its own initiative, brought about 4 or 5 spin turns and finally abnormal landed about 5 feet away and 3 feet lower, I begin to believe that this model has been seriously voodoo curses. Despite the delicate structure of the fuselage, the use of CA glue and maybe a mirracle, were the main reasons that the model escaped having suffered only a broken landing gear, scratchbuilt again.

 

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After the scale model was masked & sprayed with primary colors as described above, the same methodology followed for the canopy, scratchbuilt by transparent plastic on a vacuum former. After the acrylic paint and mat enamel coat dried, I removed the masking tape and I saw the following:

 

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The masking tape that I had used, had left noticeable marks on the transparent part of the canopy - something that had never done before! Being sure now that this scale model is indeed cursed, I dropped by the local grocery store around the corner from where I returned with few garlic cloves. Not having a similar experience before and fearing that if I try to clean the masking tape glue marks using White Spirit will make the things worse with a huge dull hood, I tried to rub the clear plastic part with alcohol which although more friendly to transparent plastics, had to pass crash test first. Dipping a cotton swab in alcohol and water solution and vigorously rubbing the hood, the masking tape glue marks, finally removed as if it was gum.

 

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Edited by Nick_Karatzides
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With my heart beating on normal levels again and using airbrush, light tones of basic colours and shades of sand sprayed at low pressure to represent the weathering and dusting on LG and the lower part of airframe. After a satisfactory weathering result, the scale model was sprayed with mat enamel coat. I left it 24 hours to dry and the individual parts of the scale model were test assembled (no glue), so that the autogyro model start to look like a united construction and please the eye.

 

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Having now left the last part of the assembly of the individual already dyed parts of the model, such as the rotor blades, the cockpit flight & engine controls, the cables, the seat belts and other necessary details, I begin to hope that perhaps this model might be ready very soon.

Edited by Nick_Karatzides
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Nick, regardless of the curse, you are doing a fantastic job on this little autogyro. I'm looking forward to seeing more on it. Your techniques are being assimilated even as we speak. I hope to use some of them on my next scratch built attempt.

 

Rgds

 

Sabre

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  • 1 month later...

Some update pictures after washing / weathering / color fading. Control cables are already installed. Still remain to be added:

  • The canopy,
  • Both propellers,
  • The radio device & GPS,
  • The engine control levers,
  • The windshield and windscreen wiper,

and also paint some details such as engine cables etc.

 

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Edited by Nick_Karatzides
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  • 1 month later...

Details on the rotor blades and the engine. The rotor blades are made of sterene sheet softened in boiling water to stretch 'n' turn in a way to look realistic. Soft sanding applied on the blade's leading edge to be shaped as it should be. The spinner cone was made of an old 1/48 scale fuel tank tip, found in sparebox.

 

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Edited by Nick_Karatzides
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Your latest pictures aren't showing up for me Nick. I can see that you've linked them correctly, and LSP tries to download them from your image host, but eventually it just times out with nothing. Frustrating!

 

Kev

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WOW! What the perfect modeling job :rofl: Outstending sctatchbuilding, painting and wethering. The model is stunning and the so anusual too. Great realy :rofl: Congratylations.

Kevin it is frustrateing I can gues! But strang that the pictures show to me fine!?

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But strang that the pictures show to me fine!?

 

Ah, thanks Marek. It's good to know that the problem is at my end. Knowing how good Nick's build is, I'd hate to think that all of LSP was missing these latest photos!

 

Kev

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CHAPTER X - Epilogue

 

Final details were added. VHF radio with headphones in the cockpit, mobile phone, seat belt buckles, main rotor control bars, cables, etc. To break the monotony of red, a toolbox and a tow added into rear storage area. At last, transparent plastic card were placed to simulate the wind shield glasses and of course the canopy in the open position.

 

Close-ups of scratchbuild engine. Although initially I plan to represent a brand new bright and shiny engine I discovered that it would not fit the with a faded, dusty and weathered autogyro. That is why I preferred to add much wear, stains from oil and scorched medals at several points and some rust as example in the exhaust.

 

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Edited by Nick_Karatzides
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The controls in this two-seater model autogyro, as with any trainer aircraft, perform the same movements. Feel free to notice the rudder pedals and you will see that the front and the back seat, right rudder pedal is pressed to full FWD possition, bringing the left ruder pedal in full AFT possition . This has resulted in turning the nose wheel to the right and turning the rudder of the tail in such a way as to twist the autogyro to right as defined by the position of the rudder pedals. Also notice that the throttle lever of back seat is attached on a bar connecting to the front seat engine throttle so to move simultaneously. The engine's power transmission is made with a wire, launched by the front seat throttle lever and lead the assembly of the engine. Finally, the control sticks are fallen slightly forward, which of course means that the elevators are set in a similar position. Also notice that the position of controls (stick, rudder pedals and engine throttle) meet the relative position of the elevator and rudder fins, the nose wheel, etc. The front & rear seat rudder pedals perform exactly the same movements as linked to the same wire transmission. If you also check the rudder pedals position, you’ll notice right rudder pedals pressed front end, bringing the left rudder pedals full back. As an effect, the nose wheel turns to the right and rudder fin turns in a way to turn the autogyro to the right as defined by the position of the rudder pedals. In similar manner, both control sticks (which perform exactly the same movements as they are connected to the same bar drive) are positioned slightly forward. This has the effect of elevator fins rotation so as to oblige the autogyro in the descent, as defined by the position of the control sticks. In a similar position the main rotor head is placed as required. As it is known, the autogyros and the helicopters leans to the left or right, elevates nose up or descent nose down, by turning the main rotor blades disc and secondarily to aileron and elevator fins (if present) and turn to left or to right with the rudder fins (autogyros) or tail rotor (helicopters).

 

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Edited by Nick_Karatzides
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I’ve been asked about the available space where the rear passenger puts his feet on. From the pictures of the model have been published, and the art images found on the article’s first page, it appears that the rear seat is too close to the back of the front seat - and it is also clear from the blueprints of the real autogyro that it’s not my own assumption or a model building mistake. In real autogyro, rear passenger's feet are not squeezed behind the front passenger seat back, but they are placed left & right of the front seat! To make it more understandable, have a look in following pictures, showing a tandem cockpit seating positions as described:

  • The green lines represent the front seat passenger and the position of his feet on the rudder pedals and
  • The blue lines represent the rear seat passenger and the position of his feet on the rudder pedals.

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Edited by Nick_Karatzides
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