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Ian Aylmer

Look out the Brits are coming

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This is really great stuff, Ian!

I'd say you're progressing by leaps and bounds and the results show it.

 

And you're making quick work of it, to boot.

 

Great job!

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Hi all,

 

Thanks guys! Appreciated. <_<

 

Does anyone have any reference to weapon colours used on these birds during DS???

 

Thanks

Ian

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Ian I am at work just now but what is the load out going to be?? If you let me know I will look when I get home and give you the info.

 

Graham.

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Hi all,

 

Thanks guys! Appreciated. <_<

 

Does anyone have any reference to weapon colours used on these birds during DS???

 

Thanks

Ian

 

All pictures I have in my books show green LGBs oder green "dumb" bombs <_<

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Hi all,

 

Dumb bombs ( green, thanks Dondy), Skyflash, sidewinders, smaller fuel tanks, I don't seem to have the bigger ones?

 

All the sensory stores in my pictures are the same colour as the bird.

 

Thanks

Ian

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Hi all,

 

When the wings are fully extended, there is a silver part the same shape as that part of the fuselage which covers it when the wings are retracted. Again I haven't any images of the bird from the top. is this the same on all Tornados including DS birds???

 

Thanks

Ian

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Hi all,

 

Texas, your a gent. Thanks. Last night I started to do the fiddley bits. I painted Oleo legs, did the silver parts to the wings and tail, though this is more like steel. Hung the landing gear doors, the wing tip lights, started to paint the nose cone, also the fuselage coloured sides to the engine. Ah yes, also weathered the wheels, the landing gear bays and the air brake bays as well. Phew. :blink:

 

So, with any luck, minus the sensory and exhaust items that need positioning, tonight it will look like a DS Tonka!!! Whoohoo.

 

Then obviously I will be hanging and detailing stores. So maybe by this weekend it will be finished all together and on the shelf with the F16. Seems kind of sad really B) . I think all in all this kit has come together really quickly! I will post some more pictures later this evening. :blink:

 

Anyway, to the attic!

 

Thanks all

Ian :D

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Hi all,

 

I need some reference material, generally pictures from all angles of this bird, preferably DS. Does anyone have any links??? Would be very much appreciated. ;)

 

Thanks all

Ian

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Hi all,

 

Progress is slow. I have painted all the underwing stores now, many thanks to Lancman for pointing a few things out! Much obliged. So I am waiting for stuff to dry out. Then a gloss coat, then decals, then another gloss coat, weather, matt coat and hang them. Seems like a whole lot of work when I was hoping to have it almost finished last night. :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :blink:

 

Then stick the nose cone on, then engines and bobs your uncle.......................so maybe by Sunday then. :rolleyes:

 

Is there a way of getting dried enamel paint off of clear parts without ruining everything???? I messed up the canopy and would like to try again. :rolleyes:

 

Thanks

Ian

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Hi all,

 

Is there a way of getting dried enamel paint off of clear parts without ruining everything???? I messed up the canopy and would like to try again. :rolleyes:

 

Thanks

Ian

HI Have you ever used Future Floor Wax or have excess to it?

I would strip the enamel off the clear parts with Easy Off Oven Cleaner ( or one that has lye in it). Care must be taken because it has a strong oder and can irrate the skin. Just spray it on and let it set for about 15 minutes and then just wash it off. If all the paint doesn't come off do it again. It souldn't harm the plastic.

You can also sand it off starting with 400 grit wet dry sandpaper and work it with progressive finer grits to say 12000, if you have it or can get it

After you have all the paint off you can pour the Future in a container that the clear part can be dipped in and holding the clear part on the edges or somewhere that your going to paint dip it in the future until it looks good with no bubbles or trash on it. After dipping place one corner on a paper towl or something that will wick off the excess future. Place the part on something so it can dry for at least 24 hours being sure nothing tuches what you want left clear. You may want to cover it with a bowl or box to keep dust from settling on it. After it dryed you can sand the edges you wont to paint if nessery and then it can be mask and painted again.

Hope this helps

 

Texas :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

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To add a little to Tex's posting:

In the U.K. the product is called Klear or Crystal Clear. If you haven't tried it you should, as it works miracles on clear parts and is also what many of us use as the gloss clear coat on kits.

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HI Just want to let you know that the Future Floor Wax is relly great to work with. If you dip your clear parts and they look bad, you can take Windex Window Cleaner or any window cleaner with ammonia in it or even straight ammonia and it will remove the Future and you can dip it again.

Hope this helps

 

Texas :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

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