Barry

Hi Gord,
 
Here are a couple of pics of the "extended" nose gear strut. I am not sure that this is the actual total length of the nose strut when it is the "hike position" used for cat launch. I extend mine for the airborne position when fully extended in the Weight Off Wheels (WOW) when in the retraction mode. I determined this by placing the upper trunnion mount in its position and then determining the maximum length with clearance to the aft wheel well bulkhead.  
 
The spacing marks on the mat are 1/2" apart.
 

 

 

 
This is the nearly retracted position needed for my purposes.
 

 
Hope these are helpful and if I can help further just let me know. The build up to the point I stopped is here on LSP but the photos went the way of many others.
 
Barry

Hi Gord,
 
Here are a couple of pics of the "extended" nose gear strut. I am not sure that this is the actual total length of the nose strut when it is the "hike position" used for cat launch. I extend mine for the airborne position when fully extended in the Weight Off Wheels (WOW) when in the retraction mode. I determined this by placing the upper trunnion mount in its position and then determining the maximum length with clearance to the aft wheel well bulkhead.  
 
The spacing marks on the mat are 1/2" apart.
 

 

 

 
This is the nearly retracted position needed for my purposes.
 

 
Hope these are helpful and if I can help further just let me know. The build up to the point I stopped is here on LSP but the photos went the way of many others.
 
Barry

Hi Gord,
 
Here are a couple of pics of the "extended" nose gear strut. I am not sure that this is the actual total length of the nose strut when it is the "hike position" used for cat launch. I extend mine for the airborne position when fully extended in the Weight Off Wheels (WOW) when in the retraction mode. I determined this by placing the upper trunnion mount in its position and then determining the maximum length with clearance to the aft wheel well bulkhead.  
 
The spacing marks on the mat are 1/2" apart.
 

 

 

 
This is the nearly retracted position needed for my purposes.
 

 
Hope these are helpful and if I can help further just let me know. The build up to the point I stopped is here on LSP but the photos went the way of many others.
 
Barry

Hi Gord,
 
Here are a couple of pics of the "extended" nose gear strut. I am not sure that this is the actual total length of the nose strut when it is the "hike position" used for cat launch. I extend mine for the airborne position when fully extended in the Weight Off Wheels (WOW) when in the retraction mode. I determined this by placing the upper trunnion mount in its position and then determining the maximum length with clearance to the aft wheel well bulkhead.  
 
The spacing marks on the mat are 1/2" apart.
 

 

 

 
This is the nearly retracted position needed for my purposes.
 

 
Hope these are helpful and if I can help further just let me know. The build up to the point I stopped is here on LSP but the photos went the way of many others.
 
Barry

Hi Gord,
 
Here are a couple of pics of the "extended" nose gear strut. I am not sure that this is the actual total length of the nose strut when it is the "hike position" used for cat launch. I extend mine for the airborne position when fully extended in the Weight Off Wheels (WOW) when in the retraction mode. I determined this by placing the upper trunnion mount in its position and then determining the maximum length with clearance to the aft wheel well bulkhead.  
 
The spacing marks on the mat are 1/2" apart.
 

 

 

 
This is the nearly retracted position needed for my purposes.
 

 
Hope these are helpful and if I can help further just let me know. The build up to the point I stopped is here on LSP but the photos went the way of many others.
 
Barry

Hi Gord,
 
Here are a couple of pics of the "extended" nose gear strut. I am not sure that this is the actual total length of the nose strut when it is the "hike position" used for cat launch. I extend mine for the airborne position when fully extended in the Weight Off Wheels (WOW) when in the retraction mode. I determined this by placing the upper trunnion mount in its position and then determining the maximum length with clearance to the aft wheel well bulkhead.  
 
The spacing marks on the mat are 1/2" apart.
 

 

 

 
This is the nearly retracted position needed for my purposes.
 

 
Hope these are helpful and if I can help further just let me know. The build up to the point I stopped is here on LSP but the photos went the way of many others.
 
Barry

Hi Gord,
 
Here are a couple of pics of the "extended" nose gear strut. I am not sure that this is the actual total length of the nose strut when it is the "hike position" used for cat launch. I extend mine for the airborne position when fully extended in the Weight Off Wheels (WOW) when in the retraction mode. I determined this by placing the upper trunnion mount in its position and then determining the maximum length with clearance to the aft wheel well bulkhead.  
 
The spacing marks on the mat are 1/2" apart.
 

 

 

 
This is the nearly retracted position needed for my purposes.
 

 
Hope these are helpful and if I can help further just let me know. The build up to the point I stopped is here on LSP but the photos went the way of many others.
 
Barry

Hi Gord,
 
Here a couple of pics of my efforts at building the Phantom wing with the Flap down.
 
Inboard Leading Edge Flaps

 
Outboard LE

 

 
Trailing Edge to Fuselage

 
Trailing Edge Flaps

 
The main issue with getting the Outboard LE to look correct is the Tamiya wing is too thick. The upper in the pic is the stock and the lower is the thinned down wing tip

 
Cheers,
Barry
 

Hi Gord,
 
Here a couple of pics of my efforts at building the Phantom wing with the Flap down.
 
Inboard Leading Edge Flaps

 
Outboard LE

 

 
Trailing Edge to Fuselage

 
Trailing Edge Flaps

 
The main issue with getting the Outboard LE to look correct is the Tamiya wing is too thick. The upper in the pic is the stock and the lower is the thinned down wing tip

 
Cheers,
Barry
 

Hi Gord,
 
Here a couple of pics of my efforts at building the Phantom wing with the Flap down.
 
Inboard Leading Edge Flaps

 
Outboard LE

 

 
Trailing Edge to Fuselage

 
Trailing Edge Flaps

 
The main issue with getting the Outboard LE to look correct is the Tamiya wing is too thick. The upper in the pic is the stock and the lower is the thinned down wing tip

 
Cheers,
Barry
 

Hi Gord,
 
Here a couple of pics of my efforts at building the Phantom wing with the Flap down.
 
Inboard Leading Edge Flaps

 
Outboard LE

 

 
Trailing Edge to Fuselage

 
Trailing Edge Flaps

 
The main issue with getting the Outboard LE to look correct is the Tamiya wing is too thick. The upper in the pic is the stock and the lower is the thinned down wing tip

 
Cheers,
Barry
 

Hi Gord,
 
Here a couple of pics of my efforts at building the Phantom wing with the Flap down.
 
Inboard Leading Edge Flaps

 
Outboard LE

 

 
Trailing Edge to Fuselage

 
Trailing Edge Flaps

 
The main issue with getting the Outboard LE to look correct is the Tamiya wing is too thick. The upper in the pic is the stock and the lower is the thinned down wing tip

 
Cheers,
Barry
 

Smart looking jet and not another Lockheed based design.
 
Barry

Either I read it hear or on another site someone suggesting a 1/32 B-58.
To me it would be a good choice after the Concord and the XB-70 Valkyrie; why not the B-58?
It would be easier to display and "should" not cost nearly as much I would think.
 
 
Barry

Hi Tim!
 
Working towards getting back to one of my builds here....A-7D, F-100F, F-4B or this one. I have been building 1/16 RC M1A1HA Abrams. I really enjoy working in the larger scale. Lots of scratch building using styrene and tons of brass. When finished I am estimating a gross weight of 28lbs., with full function RC.
 
There are a couple of Phantom and Crusader builds I am following that give me the yearning to return to one of my builds, one day!
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
The WIP thread can be viewed here. https://www.rctankwarfare.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?f=201&t=18880
 
Cheers,
Barry

Not on the "menu" right now Tim but I do plan to finish it.
 
Perhaps some of the fine Recce builds I expect to see here will spur me to action!
 
Barry

Closer shot.

Pete,
 
I'm just going to say, well I don't know what to say that would adequately describe how I think a lot of us feel about your skills and what you can and have accomplished. 
Perhaps one day others of us will reach your level of expertise and I do not often use that word.
 
Barry

Nice work Tom.
 
I have to ask, what is the purpose of the upside down water bottles on the aerial?
I may be wrong but it appears to be a unique application that I've only seen on Canadian tanks.
It also appears that 3 bottles serves the purpose, what ever it is.
 
Barry
 

Sir, your skills with styrene are surpassed only by your ability to see how to use and form it into what ever you need.
 
This is going to be a fantastic model!
 
Barry

Here are some pics of the External Aux Power Unit (EAPU), Smoke Grenade Launchers and the Muzzle Reference Sensor (MRS).
 
The EAPU is from the Trumpeter M1A1 kit assembled with all the detail sanded away.
 

 

 

 

 
Smoke Grenade Launchers
 

 

 

 

 

 
MRS
 

 

 

 

 
Thanks for looking in.
Barry

Here are a few pics of the nearly complete Loader's Armored Gun Station (LAGS).
 
Hinged armored panels deployed.
 

 

 

 
Panels lowered.
 

 

 

 

 
TAFN,
Barry

Thank you sir.
 
Here are a couple of pics showing the previous detail in their place. They are used to hold the Reactive Armor Tiles in place.
 

 

 
Cheers,
Barry

Thanks guys, it's been quite a journey thus far.
I have learned a lot, not only about the Abrams but about myself and my modeling skills or in some cases lack there of.
Also when modeling in 1/16" scale even the smallest detail is necessary.
 
It has taught me more than I ever knew about soldering and how best to handle multi-piece assemblies.

 
I have built several dozen holding fixtures to position and hold pieces while I soldered and or drilled them and some of these fixtures are elaborate assemblies themselves.
 
Holding fixture for assembly of exhaust grills.



 
I have also learned patience, lots of patience! I know now that if I need 30 of something to make 32 or 33 just because "stuff happens" and if I have more then I need then the frustration factor drops substantially. The "twang" does not mean an immediate "Oh crap" and if it does then just take a deep breath and simply make another.
 


 
The build is down to the small details with all the heavy work done. I have one large hurtle to jump and that is replacing all the molded weld beads that were removed and there are more than I like to think about!
 
Cheers,
Barry

Thank you sir.
 
Here are a couple of pics showing the previous detail in their place. They are used to hold the Reactive Armor Tiles in place.
 

 

 
Cheers,
Barry