dodgem37

http://www.largescaleplanes.com/Marketplac...waMe109-G4.html http://www.largescaleplanes.com/Marketplac...waMe109-G6.html http://www.largescaleplanes.com/Marketplac...aMe109-G10.html http://www.largescaleplanes.com/Marketplac...aMe109-G14.html http://www.largescaleplanes.com/Marketplac...waMe109-K4.html No worries. Sincerely, Mark

Folks, I think I have a George Aero Detail lying about. I could scan some images amd PM them to you. Sincerely, Mark

Groovy! This might help: The scale is close enough at 1/33. Sincerely, Mark

Do It, Brother! Sincerely, Mark

Thomas, I am working on this kit as well. I'm doing a Hungarian G-14 from an IPMS Quarterly or Update from about 1970. It will be Light Brown H7 I'm going to offer some helpful hints. I may be right, I may be wrong. But there will be more color contrast to your cockpit. The gas line, paint the middle section silver. That represents glass. The circuit breaker box, the one with the big wires coming out of, paint the top row of buttons red. The ones you have painted as red, paint them black. The big wires coming out of the box on the right, paint them silver. The swirly wires next to the O2 regulator (the blue circle with things attached), paint those silver. The object the swirly wires come out of, paint that blue. Clean up the over-painting. The lower little red dot, paint that cockpit color. The one on the opposite end, paint that red or yellow. I painted mine yellow. But who knows if it is correct? This is the part that I liked to do the most: the flight control chain. The set of two parallel lines with the circles in them, at the bottom, are the chain to the wheels on the lower left side of the flooring. Paint those lines black with little aluminum dots every 1/2 millimeter or so. Tiny dots. They represent the connecting links in the chain. From the top. Run some wire from the front box forward to fill the space next to the top rudder pedal and paint yellow. It will help fill the space. Run conduit from each little box all the way back and thryu the cockpit wall. Paint black. Paint all of the buttons on the top boxes black. Leave the boxes 66. Paint the rudder pedals silver. Don't paint the openings. I sanded the pedals on my plane almost all the way down and then cleaned out the spaces then painted them. They are about .010 thin. Paint a piece of tape black and put it on the cannon housing. Paint the thin wire at the bottom of the picture yellow and the thick wire black. Lowlights: Make a wash of 10 parts carrier (water) and 1 part pigment (water based paint) and paint the cockpit with it. Mix your own color to match. You can make any color you want with red, blue, yellow, white and black. Some use a black wash. Some use a brown wash. For me, it depends upon the base color of the cockpit. Let it dry. If you don't like the contrast, add 1 more unit of pigment to your mix. Add water as required. Remove all of the excess that is not located in corners with a damp tip. Do your best to remove what is in recesses also. Do your best to just have recessed corners lowlighted. Highlights: When you weather, work outward in, and in a back and forth direction. You'll first start to emphasise the outline of the object and then the inner edges. Work from left-right then up-down. Or vice-versa. Use a dry brush. Don't use paint from the bottle. Use A LITTLE from the cap. Wipe it down on an absorbing surface until there is barely enough pigment on the brush to use on the model, then dry brush the area you want to highlight. Build it up. You can always go over the surface a second time and add if you don't have enough pigment. You have to correct if you have too much pigment. Do in two what you can't do in one. Dry brush all surfaces with its color. This will leave your edges highlighted. Don't forget to wash. The dashboard is blurry, but it looks ok to me. Forget weathering the non-detail flat surfaces. When you apply the wash you will coat the flat surfaces (because flat paint has a rough surface) with enough pigment that the intensity of the base color will tone down. Look at your pictures. If you only emphasize the edges, corners, and recesses and don't visually interfere with them by adding the other weathering (the weathering on the surface plane) you'd be set. Remove all of the other weathering. If you used prismacolor pencil, wipe it off. If you used paint. Dry brush over it. It can be corrected. Do this first. Let dry, correct previous painting, then weather. Don't use Silver. It is too intense of a color. Use flat aluminum. You don't need scratches and stuff JUMPING out, which is what they'll do if you use silver. Use aluminum, it's more subtle. For old scratches use aluminum before the wash. For new scratches, use after the wash and/or highlight stage. It depends upon when you want them to have occured. After you have created a light/midtone/dark contrast (weathering), if you want controls to appear to have been freshly used, add a fresh layer of paint to them. They will add a clean/dirty contrast to an already dulled down environment. Mantra: Do not weather surface planes. Lowlight recesses and corners. Highlight edges. Never use Silver, too much contrast. Use Aluminum. I think this is enough. This works for me. I hope this helps. If anyone else has any additions, corrections, or deletions, please feel free. I won't be offended. Believe me, I am no expert. Sincerely, Mark

'I would be esp keen to hear from people who have made a big tail 190 - is it pretty straight forward?' A look at the instructions show 3 options to be decided upon: 1. normal or large tail; 2. flat or blown canopy; and 3. painting options. Thierry Laurent wrote a tweek of a Hasegawa kit in Marketplace. I don't know if it is one and the same with the Revell kit. Someone with more knowledge will need to add on. Jerry Crandall wrote a builders review. It's dated 2003. This article can be found in Reviews, Kits, WWII Aviation, 'Hasegawa FW 190D-9. I tried to link them both but something went awry. Anyway, hope this helps. Sincerely, Mark

Jeff, Nice airplane. That is the best well photo I have ever seen. I just finished Dragons' kit and I scoured for a well image that good and came up short. Which is OK, because the finished product came up short. Sometimes it's like that. Anyway. Great photo. Sincerely, Mark

Loic, I, as well as many others I'm sure, observed, in awe, this build over the past months. I can't tell you how I marvelled each time I opened your thread. The problems you faced and solved were extraordinary. I learned a great deal tracking your superlative effort to transform a Zero into a Kate! You did a great, great, job. Many thanks for sharing. Sincerely, Mark

Very tight. I look forward to this build as much as I looked forward to your previous builds. Sincerely, Mark

B- I tried to upload some photos from a copy of Schiffer Military History Messerschmitt Bf109 F, G, & K Series by Prien & Rodeike that I have but the scans are too big and they failed to attach. The only photo that is light enough to scan (although there are other photos, but the lower wing is very dark and probably would not scan well) of an F-2 that shows the wheel well shows the well as round. All photos showing the wells of F-4's are round save for one. This one is an F-4 trop of 8./JG27 at El Asaba airfield in North Africa, July 1942 with squared off wheel wells. Kevin, Troy, you dogged me! If you'd like, I can e-mail them to you. Just let me know. Thanks for the correction. Sincerely, Mark

Brother, I must apologize for disagreeing with you. The wheel opening on the -F is a circle, not as the shape on your craft. Sincerely, Mark

Erwin, I calculated the total price at $90.657USD, without shipping. Rufe conversion calculates as $32.95+-USD, from MDC website. Tamiya A6M2 can be $110.00USD To me, it is not a bad price. You are getting the conversion for free. But what is shipping to Belguim? That may put the price over the edge. If you buy each item separately they may cost more. I have a Swallow A6M2 and a resin cockpit and Rufe resin conversion I picked up years ago made by Pascal Huguet. http://www.largescaleplanes.com/Works/hugu.../Rufe/Rufe.html and http://www.largescaleplanes.com/lane/Huguet.html I'm happy with the quality of the Swallow kit. Some may not be. The Swallow kit is not a competition piece. Tamiya's kit is a competition piece. The Swallow kit doesn't have the niceties of the Tamiya kit. All flaps, etc. are molded in. It would take surgery and scratching to relocate them. The engine doesn't compare. The surface is scribed and riveted, though, and is really rather good. I don't recall if the cockpit glazing is 1 piece or 3. It's probably a 1 piece. It is by far less expensive than Tamiya's kit. Pascals cockpit compares with Tamiya's. I don't recall if Pascal offered a Beaching Dolly. Do you want to make a non-competition Rufe or a competition Rufe? If you buy it, and don't like it, I'm sure someone would buy it from you. I hope this helps. Sincerely, Mark

Ju88A1, These are fantastic images. Keep up the good work. Many thanks. Sincerely, Mark