Borsos

Any other markings? Swiss? Civil? ok, ok, I am going to laugh on my own…

That’s exactly my opinion, too. If you put Border‘s 1:35 scale 109 G-6 next to Revells 1:32 scale G-6, you‘ll definitively see a difference. But I‘ve seen many dioramas with 1:35 scale vehicles next to 1:32 scale planes. They didn’t look weird at all — you only knew a difference because you knew that they were of different scale. by the way: I never met a 1:72 scale modeler who had problems with using 1:76 scale stuff… You‘re not alone, Paul! When I build my first 1:32 scale plane, I still thought „Is that HUGE“! Meanwhile I don’t think that any longer. I only kept these 1:48 kits that had no 1:32 scale equivalent, like the Classic Airframes Fairey Battle or the Accurate Vindicator. kind regards, Andreas

I know… I was just kidding… I didn’t mean to offend anyone, I just wanted to keep the newly lighted up little fire under the „team 1:32 vs. team 1:35“-pot alive… I for myself gave up 1:48 when I realized it just didn’t feel „right“ and switched to 1:32. I sold almost my whole collection of 1:48 kits to build only 1:32 airplanes. So I am also definitely scale-focused to a certain extent . But as I am also a tank/soft skinned vehicle/diorama builder, I always disliked the 1:35 - 1:32 problem. So when the first 1:35 aircraft kits were released, I was very happy. I personally don’t mind at all building 1:32 and 1:35 planes side by side, I like to enjoy the advantages of both worlds. But I can also completely understand those who just don’t want to do so and keep things just on the 1:32 side. I just can’t keep away from nettling a little bit…

hey folks, there are nice vehicle kits in 1:35 from Gecko Models, Tamiya, Bronco, ICM, IBG, Airfix, Miniart, …

But that would cost around 1500€ from HPH I think ….

Getting better and better! these stars came out lovely (although I completely understand ICM‘s unwillingness to portray them).

Well, I am keen on this model and look forward to it in anticipation. I am sure it is as nice as the other Border kits and 1:35 looks for me as a perfect scale for models. As I am no rivet counter I am sure I’ll be able to live with minor flaws, if there should be any.

Fantastic! You never get wrong with a Halberstadt…!

Here‘s a two-part comparison between eduard‘s E-1 and Trumpeter’s E-3, sadly only in German. But the pictures might come in handy: http://originalundmodell.de/bauberichte/bb_bf-109e_1.htm You can see a weird front windshield on the Trumpeter’s E-3. The angle just isn’t right. I have a Trumpeter g-2 kit and the clear parts including windshield look just fine.

Same here… Can‘t say how many traps I build myself for me this way…

That‘s an important Austrian-Hungarian late-war bird and I am looking forward in anticipation to this release . Brumowski on the other hand preferred the OEFFAG Albatros fighters over the Phoenix.

You need to check carefully your references. Many detail are wrong for the versions written on the boxes. But nothing a modeler can’t handle. Trumpeter kits generally receive in my opinion worse press than they actually deserve. but I‘ve seen an early model (E-3?) which had something really oddly looking on the windscreen. So you should carefully read the reviews online, even if they’re more critical than it would be necessary.

That‘s easy: 1) SB2U-3 Vindicator 2) Fairey Battle 3) Lagg-3

Interior mostly painted and weathered. I kept weathering to a minimum. That was hard. … Kelik 3D printed instruments are a joy to use and fit perfectly. Andreas

That looks lovely!

Great that you found a way to add the cockpit floor. The plane looks fantastic. I am very much looking forward to your paint job! Andreas

I gave these figures a try and made a test purchase. I chose the BoB British pilots in 1:32 scale having a chat on their airfield because this set is half the size of the Japanese sailors and therefore half the price, too. Not completely irrelevant for a test purchase… here they are after roughly removing all the printing frames. They still need some sanding. I must say I like them. The fellow on the garden chair looks a little stiff in this photo, but that’s just the photo. In reality he looks like a dog-tired fellow after some stressy sorties. The only minor complaint I‘d had is that no one actually opens his mouth in spite of being in a chat. however, I placed an order for the Japanese navy figures in 1:35 scale. They should team up nicely with the figures from Border models. I also found out that Albion Alloys are preparing a set of resin pilots in 1:35 scale for Border‘s Kate. Looks quite promising: https://www.keymodelworld.com/article/albion-alloys-135-b5n2-kate-rasin-aircrew

Thanks Kev! it‘s not impossible to sand the brass strut with sanding sticks into even more airfoil shape. I did that from time to time. But between flattened brass around a metal core and airfoil shape (always the kit parts in mind!) isn’t really so much difference.

I haven’t build a Lukgraph kit yet, but some WNW, Roden, Special Hobby injection molded WW1 kits and also some resin WW1 kits. When it comes to struts my experience is, that they‘re always weak if the original struts were made of metal and are therefore of a way smaller diameter than wooden struts (wooden struts as injection molded parts are no problem.) It doesn’t matter if these metal struts are made of injection molded, resin or 3D printed resin kit parts. I like to replace all these struts of all biplane kits with brass rod. It’s not that difficult: Just cut a brass pipe of the exact length like your strut with as scalpel blade, insert a smaller and a little longer piece of steel wire as a core and flatten the whole thing with a pin vice (Albion Alloys once offered a tool called „the strutter“ for that purpose, but its long o. o. p. now). You might have to smoothen the edges with a file. That’s how they look like (brass struts for a Roden Albatros D. I) Here is an example of the finished thing. It’s the WNW DFW C. V, the original machine had metal struts. It is highly recommended to replace them with brass to add strength. Also these struts are made of brass pipe with a steel wire core. Wooden struts are no problem in general, because they’re thicker. But it can be sometimes fun to replace them with real wood. And that’s my WNW Albatros B. II. Here I used the kit parts and did NOT replace them with brass pipe: What I wanted to say is: Most struts on any biplane kit are wobbly when not replaced by e. g. brass struts. It doesn’t matter if they are made of resin, 3D-printed resin or injection molded plastic. It’s not difficult at all to replace them with stronger material. It shouldn’t take you away to buy a Lukgraph kit. I do not intend to use a single of these struts in my Lukgraph kits, besides of using them as templates to make my own. I hope that helps a little. Andreas

It’s here. WOW, what a beast! Largest box in my stash (way thicker than Revell’s boxing of the Bf-110)! but it looks amazing

Do it like me: buy what you want and put it in the stash, planning to build it one day

That always depends on the time you’re interested in. A Farman F.40 for instance was for 1916 standards not obscure at all but as important as e. g. a B-25 some 30 years later. I personally admit that for me everything without a propeller is obscure and I have no idea what an F-16 separates from a Phantom or what a „Gina“ is. But that‘s just me and my preferences. I wouldn’t generalize them.

You’re completely right with the Caproni. The Farman F. 40 was even more than a trainer but the backbone of the French aerial reconnaissance in 1916. it saw extensive active frontline service. So sad that this type, like so many pushers will probably never see the light of day as a 1:32 kit. Well, we have the Fe2b and the Caudron G. III, don’t we?

That‘s torture I especially regret never to be able to see a WNW Breguet XIV and Farman F. 40. also the Caudron G. IV would be on that list, but i don’t give up the hope that CSM will upscale their 1:48 kit one day…

Ouch! That sounds really painful! thanks, David! I just followed the color photos in my Detail & Scale book. The bandages get thinner and I made a little progress on the engine: it‘s not easy to place a micro engine behind a plastic replica of an actual engine. One needs to lengthen the engine‘s shaft and as soon as the engine is glued in place you can be sure that the shaft tilts. I work with brass tubes of different diameters and with micro engines that have a shaft running through the whole body. That makes a bedding from both sides possible. At last I locked the engine between firewall and „dishpan“, but didn’t glue it there. It remains moveable and thus prevents it from tilting. That’s the result of some evenings trial and error…