LSP_Ray

Wow!!! Where do I sign up for a pre-order!!??! BTW, any news on the Name-of Engine-Withheld-Due-to-Intellectual-Property (from now on to be called NEW-DIP's ) engines being re-issued???

Great work!!! I am curious, how much of this is going to be included in the resin detail set?

I am thinking there are three sets out there. First was Aeroclub or Airwaves (my memory is a little foggy there) Then, Scale Aircraft Conversions has a set, http://www.squadron.com/ItemDetails.asp?item=SV32001 , and lastly the gfactor landing gear, which may be the best, but not sure they are still in business. http://www.gfactormodels.com/f10532.html

It looks like the masking trick really worked well! I will have to try one of these chipped planes one of these days!!!

Hey Jay! The MiG looks great!!! I also received the latest issue of Model Airplane with your latest build in it. Really good article, but again was disappointed with the stamp-sized cockpit pics!!! You describe at length building it and point out what you did with the instrument panel, then you can't see it - even WITH my reading glasses!!!

Save them! Many use them for rivets, especially in 1/35th armor!!

Hey Stusbke, great detailing work!!! Can't wait to see the whole thing painted up!!!

I used pins with the colored balls on the ends that Larry mentioned. I just took a small file and rounded and downsized them a bit then cut the pin to length. Here they are in my long-suffering Cougar pit:

Incredible work, simply incredible. Great stuff, Radu!!!

I think this is your best work yet, Chris!!! That speed brake is gorgeous!!!

I don't remember the poses but I know that Jerry Rutman and Craftworks both offer WWII pilot figures of various countries. Verlinden has also offered a few, and I believe there are some others scattered out there. If all else fails, find a seated pilot figure for the lower torso and then add a Navy upper torso from a standing figure + some hacking, filing and filler should get you a seated pilot!

I second Larry on the Buccaneer. I was on your list the last time it was brought up as a possibility and am definitely still interested! Same for the Panther Productions Firefly, Sea Vixen, and 1/24th Gladiator!!!!

Cool!!!!! Their latest AFV's are spectacular Not sure about that. DragonUSA is the importer of Hasegawa kits. Don't think there is anything beyond that. In fact, they compete with there 1/72 lines on AFV's and aircraft, and 1/48th aircraft, at least to a degree.

They are very similar. However, if you are concerned about details, the interior details are more correct for the T-34-85. All the kits have very nearly the same details, based on a post-war T-34-85, so there are a lot of corrections for a T-34-76. Also, since the T-34-85 has a larger turret, it is a little easier to see all that detail!

I guess.... I meant as to Architectural scales. 1/72 would 1/6" = 1'-0" . There is no such scale, at least not a standard one. Closest I guess would be 3/16" = 1'-0" which would be 1/64 scale.

Polly Scale also has a decal/paint remover. I have never used it, but have heard of good results. May take more than one application, but is not as caustic/dangerous as oven cleaner. It is supposed to work on different paint types.

According to Mr. Tamiya in his book, 1/35th was picked so that a motor would best fit in their armor line. I do not know if I totally believe that was the true reason. For one, their first tank kit was a Panther. IF the kit needed to be 1/35th to fit a motor, what about 90% of all the other tanks that are smaller than a Panther? Also, 1/35th is so close to 1/32nd why not add the extra little bit and match the other 1/32nd stuff out there? Battery would obviously fit in a 1/32nd tank if it fit in a 1/35th. Tamiya got their start making wood ship kits for the Japanese crowd that were box scale. It was only later they started to keep to a scale with ships. I am wondering if that first armor kit was sort of a box scale issue also and they stuck with it. Or an error in calculations with their early molds and they refuse to face up to it. Whatever, it sure is a pain for that 1% off. Wish they would have stuck with 1/32nd. BTW: 1/32 is really based on an architectural scale: 3/8" = 1'- 0", just as 1/48th is 1/4" = 1'- 0" . Not sure where they came up with 1/72nd however.

Geez, now I know what Steve's handle should be: "Wulf!" Will be looking forward to the pics!

Gene, Derek is working on a major detail set for the Beaufighter. Which reminds me, I need to find some time to do a short write-up of the Seattle Spring show. I talked a short while with Shawn of Craftworks. I bought some of his Beaufighter cowls and exhausts. Anyway, he mentioned that he has had the masters for the Beau interior sitting completed, just waiting for him to get some time to make the molds for them. Get this - they have been this way for like 4 years! Arrgghhh!! I told him he better furry, that Derek was working on a set also, but his only reaction was "Great!", what ever that means. Anyway, he is hoping to release the long-awaited Val soon (he had the major pieces on display at the show, and like an idiot I forgot to take a pic), and is close to being ready with a P-39/P-400 too. As a matter of fact, the P-39 may beat the Val, but not sure. Steve Gallucci(sp?) is tasked with completing the Val so I am expecting great things from that one. They also have another surprise twin engine bird in the works.

I'd go with pink. Seriously, they sure look like white, don't they. Yet, I have never seen anything Navy done all GSB with white gears. Hmmmmm....

Great work, Jay!! I also like your article in MAI on the Stuka, but have a criticism: tell your editors that it doesn't help much when you write a nice tutorial on painting cockpits for them to print the accompanying pictures the size of postage stamps! It is very hard to see any detail. Great build though!!!

Put me on the pre-order list! I have only been buggin you about this one for two years! It is really looking good!

I almost always use a combination of pre-shading and post-shading. I first prime either in white or grey, depending on what the final finish will be. Then, pre-shade with a dark shade. This is almost never black, but would be dark grey for dark colors or greys, and brown or red brown for yellows, and will use other complimentary colors for other colors. Then, I use the final color that doesn't quite cover the pre-shade. I then go back and post-shade with a lightened version of the color for center of panels, streaks, faded areas, etc. I will also go back with a darkened shade if I accidentally wiped out some of my preshading.

I can do it. Give me a day or two. And if you don't hear from me by Monday, remind me!

The scheme I have been looking for (while you guys are at it): the post-war French built ones used in the early stages of the Viet Nam war!