LSP_Ray

Lookin' good, Tim!!!

Welcome Kurt!!! This is going to be a cool diorama, can't wait to see the completed pics!! With a name like yours, I am surprised you aren't building a Focke Wulf!!! I am sure you haven't heard that one before.

Great work again Radu!!! And beautiful job of re-creating it into resin MDC!!!

Turned out looking great, Chris!!! I am betting there will be one choked-up vet when that is presented to him. I am also betting the next item on the workbench will start with a P and end in a 47!!

I am not worthy! I am not worthy!!

Stephen: Laser printers are for the most part better than inkjet as they produce waterproof decals. However, no white, no mettalics. Also, colors are translucent so need a white backing. Inkjets have the same problems, plus ink is mostly not waterproof so they need to be coated with a clear coat before dipping in water. Note I say "mostly not waterproof": I bought a new Epson Color Stylus that uses pigment based-inks instead of the usual dye-based inks. It is supposed to be water resistant "on some papers". I haven't done a lot of experimentation yet, but I will be. Will keep you posted. ALPS printers are still the best as they use wax-based ink that is waterproof, they print white, silver, gold, and other mettalics, and you can tell the printer to hold the paper in ("overlay"), so you can print multiple passes. However, weaknesses include a relatively low dpi, and problems printing light blues or greys, or mixed colors so that you can see the dot matrix (the low dpi problem). There are all kinds of work-arounds that can be done, including how you layer the colors, how many layers you use, printing or placing a white over colors, etc. Of course, there is also the availability issue. However, ALPS sold, or leased, its technology to other manufacturers such as Kodak (First Check printers) and Okidata, so there are still supplies out there as of this date. Me, I have stocked up on ALPS supplies, and hope to figure out a way to get good results from my Epson. That way I could do the color on the Epson - with a lot less trouble than the ALPS - then print out white backgrounds on the ALPS. We shall see...

I agree whole-heartily!!!

Thanks for the info Wayne! I will note it on my instruction sheet!

Hey, Wayne, welcome to LSP! I got another question, as I was thinking of doing my SBD in the same scheme: In your decal instructions, it has a color profile of the SBD-2 in pre-war colors, which includes the white "E" with black drop shadow which I believe is an 'Excellence' award for the unit. However, in your decal placement instructions it does not include the "E." I assume we are supposed to include it as it is on the decal sheet, which brings up another issue. The decal has the drop shadow to the LEFT of the E, while the color art shows the drop shadow to the RIGHT. I believe the artwork is correct as I believe every other artwork or photo I have seen shows the drop to the RIGHT. However, I can't remember ever seeing a shot of the opposite side of the aircraft, so possibly it is reversed on the Starboard side? So anyway, 1.) are the decals correct? 2.) did the drop shadow change from one side to the other? Thanks. Great decal set BTW!

I also did an article for Great Models on this subject, you can find the article here: http://www.greatmodels.com/main/051210.htm .

Wow!!! Where do I sign up for a pre-order!!??! BTW, any news on the Name-of Engine-Withheld-Due-to-Intellectual-Property (from now on to be called NEW-DIP's ) engines being re-issued???

Great work!!! I am curious, how much of this is going to be included in the resin detail set?

I am thinking there are three sets out there. First was Aeroclub or Airwaves (my memory is a little foggy there) Then, Scale Aircraft Conversions has a set, http://www.squadron.com/ItemDetails.asp?item=SV32001 , and lastly the gfactor landing gear, which may be the best, but not sure they are still in business. http://www.gfactormodels.com/f10532.html

It looks like the masking trick really worked well! I will have to try one of these chipped planes one of these days!!!

Hey Jay! The MiG looks great!!! I also received the latest issue of Model Airplane with your latest build in it. Really good article, but again was disappointed with the stamp-sized cockpit pics!!! You describe at length building it and point out what you did with the instrument panel, then you can't see it - even WITH my reading glasses!!!

Save them! Many use them for rivets, especially in 1/35th armor!!

Hey Stusbke, great detailing work!!! Can't wait to see the whole thing painted up!!!

I used pins with the colored balls on the ends that Larry mentioned. I just took a small file and rounded and downsized them a bit then cut the pin to length. Here they are in my long-suffering Cougar pit:

Incredible work, simply incredible. Great stuff, Radu!!!

I think this is your best work yet, Chris!!! That speed brake is gorgeous!!!

I don't remember the poses but I know that Jerry Rutman and Craftworks both offer WWII pilot figures of various countries. Verlinden has also offered a few, and I believe there are some others scattered out there. If all else fails, find a seated pilot figure for the lower torso and then add a Navy upper torso from a standing figure + some hacking, filing and filler should get you a seated pilot!

I second Larry on the Buccaneer. I was on your list the last time it was brought up as a possibility and am definitely still interested! Same for the Panther Productions Firefly, Sea Vixen, and 1/24th Gladiator!!!!

Cool!!!!! Their latest AFV's are spectacular Not sure about that. DragonUSA is the importer of Hasegawa kits. Don't think there is anything beyond that. In fact, they compete with there 1/72 lines on AFV's and aircraft, and 1/48th aircraft, at least to a degree.

They are very similar. However, if you are concerned about details, the interior details are more correct for the T-34-85. All the kits have very nearly the same details, based on a post-war T-34-85, so there are a lot of corrections for a T-34-76. Also, since the T-34-85 has a larger turret, it is a little easier to see all that detail!

I guess.... I meant as to Architectural scales. 1/72 would 1/6" = 1'-0" . There is no such scale, at least not a standard one. Closest I guess would be 3/16" = 1'-0" which would be 1/64 scale.