Woody V

Thanks Andy! After a lot of trail and error, and a TON of help from John (Thannus) I think I got it figured out. My plan at the moment is to only do white on the upper surfaces and some brown on the white.

Basic painting done. Not sure how thrilled I am with the faded fabric, looks too light but it is what it is and now I’ll just have to match this much weathering down the line. I still want to tone down the panel line shading on the vertical and horizontal stabs, but otherwise I’m calling this stage done. I’ve never pushed my airbrushing this far. To fade the fabric, first I masked off the rib taping and only lightened the centers leaving the ends dark. Then I had this: I tried to get fancy by masking off the access panels. Lastly I blended it all together with very thinned color and got this. I did the same on the elevators and rudder. Empennage. I'll be toning down the panel line fading on these parts. My next step is going to try some salt fading, but I’m going to do some tests on the mule first. Last thing I want now is to screw this up after all the work I’ve got in it so far. Thanks for watching

If I may, use this method. Put the black down first, then the white outline. This way you don't have to reposition the flimsy outline mask. It's also a good idea to "key" the location of the black mask so you put it back in the exact same orientation. As perfect as it may appear even the slightest dimensional error will become an issue when you try to fit it back in place. At least that's my experience.

Well, that settles it. As much love as I have for the 190 I won't be doing this one. I'll just have to settle for my bad memories building the Revell and Hasegawa offerings. Without a doubt a kit to gush over in every way except one.

Don't forget to throw in some cat's meow too.

Thanks Andy. I just hope I don't screw it going forward. Lot riding on this build.

For the blending stage I made new masks drawn with Adobe Illustrator and used the servo tape method to stick the masks to the model. In case you’re interested I posted a how-to on the servo tape trick here. https://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?/topic/93224-soft-edge-camo-masking-technique/#comment-1345046 Masks in place. For the Intermediate Blue I only had to be concerned with the blue/white demarcation because the Sea Blue/Intermediate Blue demarcation will be controlled when I do the Sea Blue. I used a VERY thinned Intermediate Blue to blend in the mottling. This color covers like crazy and it’s easy to obliterate the mottling but I’m happy with the way the panel line in both colors turned out. All my apprehension evaporated at this point, and I was actually having fun! Since everything was going reasonably well I couldn’t stop, but I really should have because this session was getting into the 6th hour and I was running out of gas. Regardless, I’m quite pleased with the way it turned out. I only messed up on one place where I didn’t get the Sea Blue/Intermediate Blue demarcation right and by the time it was fixed one pre shaded panel line got covered, but its on the left side and mostly covered by the national insignia so I’m just going to let it go as-is. All things considered I very pleased with the finished paint job. I still have to do the outer wings, and I’m going to have to strip and repaint the stabilizers because they won’t match the rest of the fuselage paint technique. Once I get that all finished I can move on to weathering. Thanks for watching.

Thanks. I think it works well doing it that way. You just need enough base coat to cover and if it's not perfect it doesn't matter. I use a VERY thinned paint to blend in the mottling and since you don't have to bring up the base color you can concentrate on blending the mottling.

After way too much procrastination I’m finally pushing ahead with the painting. All my base colors down and yes, I did use my home brew masks because my spastic hands won’t cooperate. Maybe too neat like this but once all the weathering is on it’ll look different…. I hope. Notice that I used all the gear doors for the in flight version as masks, temporarily held in place with Microscale Liquitape. Then I used the Scotchbrite method to add mottling. I used black, brown and white on the blues and by the time it was done I can barely see the demarcation between the the two blues. When the build gets to this stage it’s hard to imagine all the pieces and assemblies hiding under what can be seen. Starting on the bottom white mottled with brown and dark gray and panel lines in black and blended in using a very thinned Insignia white mist coats sprayed at 7psi with a .2mm Iwata HP-SB+. I had never intended to highlight the panel lines but the outer wings turned out okay so I’m going to have to follow through using the same approach overall. The outer wings have been slipped on to check the continuity of the weathering. I had to add some shading to the inner wing fold joint. This is where things are going to get tricky. I used the paint masks to hold the demarcation between the white and Intermediate Blue to overpaint the white. Now I’ll have to overpaint the Intermediate Blue to blend in the mottling and fade the panel lines to match the density of the lines in the white which should be interesting since I’ll be working blind because the masks will be hiding the adjacent colors. BTW, the darkened panel lines on the white aren’t this contrasty on the model. That’s where I am as of today. This whole painting venture is uncharted territory for me so I hope it turns out. Thanks for watching.

I can't speak for everyone, but I tear it and it's not easy.

Regardless, it looks real. You win.

You can report counterfeit merchandise directly to Ebay

Airbrush it on. You're welcome

I'm glad this subject came up. I've been wanting to give scalpels a try but wasn't sure what to buy. Now I do and they're on the way!

Finally back on this after some time on other projects… I have too many hobbies and then my stroke kind of took the wind out my sails. Regardless, on with the show. I’m glad I spent a lot of time experimenting with hairspray chipping lacquer. A quick recap of what I learned: 1. Don’t apply hairspray wet, four light coats work for me. 2. Don’t apply the paint too wet or overcoat everything with straight thinner. I spray hairspray with my airbrush and found by experimenting, that lacquer thinner dissolves hairspray aggressively, so be mindful of how wet you put down your color coat. 3. Rubbing with a water soaked brush will eventually cut through the color coat, but has a tendency to pull up smooth edged chunks. Once I break through I dry the area and use a dampened cocktail stick to carefully create an uneven edge, working from the edge inward. 4. Chipping flat surfaces is best done with a cocktail stick. You don’t have to hurry the chipping. This is my test mule, the chips on the leading edge were done about two hours after I painted it. The small scratches were done weeks later with a cocktail stick. I’ve decided to paint the outer wings and stabs off the fuselage so this is what I have so far. Base colors, mottling and a water color wash to highlight the rivets and panel line. Brown pastel chalk weathering. Chipping. My plan is to keep the chipping to a minimum and concentrate on dirtying everything up. Bottoms of outboard wings. I’ve found it easier if I lay down a color coat first, then mottle followed by extremely thinned color coat to blend everything together. Fabric after the masking was removed. Painting finished. I didn’t fade the fabric on the bottom of the wings figuring they would be out of direct sunlight. I’m not going to do any weathering on the tops of the outer wings until I have them attached to the inner wings in order to get a consistent look on both halves. This is the first time I've gone to this extreme with my airbrushing. I have a very difficult time doing things like blackening panel lines but just sucked it up and went for it. Then after I had the panel lines blended in I turned the air pressure down to 6psi and carefully filled in the areas between the lines. May not seem like a big deal to you advanced guys but I'm getting the hang of it now and happy with the results. Next I’m moving on to the fuselage. Thanks for watching.

Holy moly, that is just mind blowing.... it looks so REAL! All that tedious work and devotion to detail has paid off huge! I get exhausted just thinking about it

I remember that kit! Probably got it as gift. Shopping for gifts for me back then was simple... just give me a model!

That's what I'm leaning towards.

Personally, I stick to one brand/type of paint - Mr Color lacquer and use their Flat Clear.

That’s what I was thinking but considering the Pacific environment I am also thinking it could be a color that more closely matched the environment. Thanks!

What's your best color suggestion for Dark Sea Blue on a heavily weather Pacific campaign Corsair? I would usually use a dark color for a wash, but black simply does not show up and I don't think something like white would look good. Perhaps a medium blue/back? Thank you for any help.

BRAVO! This is without a doubt one of, if not the best weathering I've ever seen on this site. True there's been some great ones but sets this apart is the the consistency of the weathering throughout the model. Everything simply coalesces to create a totally convincing combat heavily worn aircraft.

Cool aircraft, great build and the camo is exceptional.

Hi Rick, Frankly, it's like it never happened. I don't feel any different than I did before, however they did discover some heart irregularities which I'm working on with my cardiologist. Weird, but it looks like I lucked out having the stroke, otherwise this heart thing would never have been discovered. The cat farm is doing well, but it's time consuming and expensive. Thanks for your concern. Woody

It's simply water getting under the paint. Depending on how thick the hairspray coat is, you'll get anywhere from tiny pieces or big chunks. Once water hits the hairspray the bond between the paint layers is broken. Best thing you can do when it starts is to stop so the hairspray dries, but as soon as you put water on it again, it starts all over again. Or you could try dry sanding. MicroMesh works well used dry. I just slap it on my pant leg to clear the dust. It's too bad someone doesn't come up with a tinted hairspray so you can see how much you're laying down and how thick it is. Never mind, it's all voodoo anyway.